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  1. Today
  2. I weighed ma61 hub with rotor 6.1kg, ra40 hub with rotor 6kg, and the YR39 hub with rotor 6.6kg. They all give the same 37.5mm clearance from the wheel face to the friction face of the rotor. This seems standard on the Toyota hub and rotor designs of this era to clear a single piston calliper. As for the hubs: They are all about a 95mm bearing set width, across the middle from inner seal to the face where the grease cap presses in. This is guess what the bearings require to cover the stub axle. The vented rotor types have more offset space from the strut, to allow for the thicker rotors. YR39: about 70mm from inner edge to wheel face. About 21mm from wheel face to the rotor mounting face, leaving 49mm from inside edge to the rotor mounting face. Rotor is 45mm thick and leaves 4mm approx from rotor face to inner edge. MA61: about 72mm from inner edge to wheel face. About 32mm from wheel face to rotor mounting face, and that leaves 40mm from rotor face to inner edge. Rotors are 26mm thick overall, so that leaves 14mm inside. RA40: about 60mm from inner to wheel face. About 33mm from wheel face to rotor face, leaving 27mm from rotor face to inside edge. Deduct the 16mm thick rotor assembly and you get 11mm from the back of the rotor to the inner edge. The snout is obviously longer on this hub, as the wheel is set 60mm out, not 70 or 72mm. Ill firm these up when I get some vernier callipers to measure with. Mine broke. At that time Ill make a spreadsheet that's useful. One thing that's obvious, the ra40 hub gives less offset than others, and if I use the ma61 or YR39 hub, I end up with 20 or 24mm more front track respectively. My front guards wont enjoy that, it might mean switching back to a stock length LCA from the XT130 LCA. I guess if I was dead set on 4 piston callipers, Id be trying to use the YR39 rotor on the MA61 hub to maximise the distance from friction face to wheel face, which would be around 49mm with that combo, but it pushes the inner rotor edge just past flush with the inner hub edge, which means you need a more complex bracket that steps back. This isn't a deal breaker, but I'm tempted to make a set-up that's so oemish its not funny, with cost, and ease of service and parts collection being the priority. I noticed the zze122 has the same rotor dimensions, so I might try and investigate those callipers. Being Corolla platform the master cylinder change wont be too much, and to make the drums work I might just need to go to the bigger wheel cylinder size. Using a single piston later model calliper it should be cheap and easy to obtain and have easy parts availability. I also wont need to do any real trickery with the bracket which keeps cost down and also means I can use the stock hub and rotor combo from the YR39. Should be an easier thing to find for people, rather than a combo of multiple things.
  3. Sometimes you need to tap the end fold of the LCA a bit flatter to make clearance, but not usually with rcas.
  4. So the Venhill kit arrived, and I fabricated a new throttle cable. I ripped an old one apart and wire brushed the threaded adjuster and nuts. I used a Genuine one from an ma70 because it has Teflon inside the adjuster. I etch primed the metal parts, scrubbed all the plastics clean and cut the firewall end off of the old ke70 cable. I cut, pulled and drilled the ends out to suit the 7mm cable housing for the 2mm Venhill wire. I then super glued the adjuster onto the cable housing, and posed it up to find the length of the housing. Once established I ran the inner wire through about 400mm extra and then cut both with the angle grinder. This gave me spare wire to sort to length. Before cutting the ke70 cable up I measured from the pedal clips shoulder to the end of the cable, 147mm, that is the magic number of extra wire vs housing. I marked this point and finished off the cable by ensuring all the correct bits went on in the correct order and orientation, then I soldered on the cable end for under the dash. I did the birdcage technique to ensure a strong bond that cant pull off. Very happy. I also found a couple of adjustments to make to the itbs, which also helped the throttle return as crisp as possible. Once I adjusted idle, all was good. Been researching a brake upgrade. I have these 25mm Liteace rotors that seem really well vented and only make the hub 600 grams heavier than the ra40 solid rotor.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Hi am new to the page just wondering any mounts for corolla te72 to rotory 12a mounts
  7. Last week
  8. Just remember that you can do a cooling system pressure test to make sure the headgasket is not the issue. (if it gets that far) My mate has the kit, you put it on the radiator cap and there is a hand pump and you pump it up to whatever your radiator cap is. Let it sit for 30mins and see how it goes.
  9. Cool, cool, cool Love to see any in-process pics you want to share. What powertrain do these have?
  10. Hi Francisco, I'm finding it hard, to think of anything else related to the radiator change, that could cause all these issues, if the use of the new Pimera radiator cap, does not change or solve anything. As you have advised, this problem has been there, right from the first start, after the engine rebuild, I'm left with no other answer than it is something in the engine. The only way you can completely prove this to yourself, is to fit back the original K series radiator, as you suggested. If it still happens, then it is the engine. I seem to remember a post where you were considering porting the head slightly. Is there any possibility, that you have taken too much out, & you've got a crack or tiny opening, into the water jacket it the head ? Something like that, could certainly cause a problem, similar to what you have described. Cheers Banjo
  11. The time has come to part ways with my Rolla, 1967 ke10. Had it about 10 years and spent more then Id like to admit on it over the time. Bored and ported 5k with webber carb - done about 2 years ago, custom wheels, 10 years ago it had a bare metal respray, diff was redone about 10 years ago, 5 speed manual gearbox, ke70 front brake upgrade, electric fan, vh44 brake booster, new starter motor when the new motor was put in about 2 years ago, h4 globes, interior was redone about 3 years ago....... the list goes on. selling as I never use it and it just sits there as I don't have a lot of spare time anymore to appreciate it. Car deserves to go to someone who will use it and appreciate it like I used to. what is needs: needs a tune - a bit of a flat spot down low in first gear but hasn't been tuned in a year. There is a crack in the paint to the front right quarter panel around the indicator. Rego has just run out so will need to be registered. I can provide a pink slip if needed no worries. First one to come with 6k will buy it. I am planning on listing it on Lloyds if I can't find a buyer in the next week or 2. Absolute steal for 6k. Number plate is now 67 Rola ** More images to come over the next day or so 0402345651
  12. Our Nissan Urvan after a subtle rags to riches restoration...
  13. Hey there fellow Liteace owner. Hope you can give us an intro about your van and engine. Mine is 5K also. 7K will fit. Around here some of them were built with 2c or 2ct diesels. When you are searching, you can also search for Townace, since many of those are the same platform as Liteace.
  14. Spent the last two weeks messing with the carb. It was an original Aisan, but ended up opting for a Chinese copy. I know.... Old carbie was running *fine* -- sorta -- except I had to go and mess with it. Figured it was time to install the rebuild kit that I've had laying around since last year. Apparently the vacuum secondary was clogged, because it looked like it has been running as a single-barrel for years. Mixture screw was turned out 7 turns. Biggest obstacle was sourcing the right material for the base plate gaskets, which did not come with the kit. Who knew it could be so difficult. After the rebuild, turns out the throttle shafts were leaking, so I ended up with a new carb anyway. Two big takeaways on this project, that gave me fits: 1. The Chinese copy takes certain liberties with the design. For example they changed the thread size and orientation of the fuel bung. They increased the diameter of the float pivot pin. Little things that can p*ss you off. In my case, I ended up swapping the old top cover from the Aisan onto the Chinese carb to ease my aggravation. My advise would be to check EVERYTHING, so you don't get surprised by, say, a vacuum hole not matching the gasket. Or the accelerator cable stopper being too large for the hole in the linkage, etc. 2. It took me several days longer than it should have, to figure out why the engine would stop running after about 10 seconds. This occurred while I kept messing with the base plate gaskets, so my mind was preoccupied with the idea of vacuum leaks. Turns out, the float needle was not *quite* seating. I had checked it by blowing through the fuel inlet with the needle closed, and figured the tiny trickle of air getting by was OK. Not OK. This is what can happen when mixing and matching parts.
  15. OK, so I just assembled my XT130 struts and springs and camber tops, using the XT130 LCA's, and TTT AE86 PS knuckle. Put on my 14" wheels and they don't spin? The caliper is not touching, and can't see anything else fouling? Before installing the hubs spun freely? I think the dust shield is pushed up against the rotor. does the AE86 Knuckle move the strut inwards? I'm thinking I have to remove the dust shield, or grind down the end of the LCA(don't want to do this.....)or get a NRCA? Anyone else come across this?
  16. Yep, block skimmed, head skimmed, good gasket, bolts ok. It does this since day 1 after the rebuild that was also the start of this radiator use. I hardly believe it's engine related. I'm still yet to test the new cap.
  17. Hmmm ! Not looking good. When you "rebuilt your 5K" did you . . . . Skim the top of the block ? Skim the head ? Repair any corrosion around any of the water jacket transfer holes in the head ? Use a new head gasket with built in sealant bead around the water jacket transfer holes ? Ensure you fitted the very heavy/thick washers back under each head bolt ? The LittleRedSpirit man's suggestions are now your best suggestion, of getting to the source of this problem, now that we have ruled out the other more common, easily fixed ones. Let us know what you find. Cheers Banjo
  18. Its the earlier style, whereas the later drums in the 80s seemed to have the ratcheting adjustment. I had an ae71 once that had a locking drum. When I pulled it apart the adjuster was backwards, and it ratcheted tighter every time you pressed the pedal and didn't release. Flipped it and it worked fine.
  19. Yer sounds the same as the old borg warner diff in the ke70 and whatever diff was in my suzuki sierra. I thought the S series and maybe even T series had a ratchet type mechanism that was auto adjustable. Once the pads wear a bit it ratchets up to the next adjustment click on its own. But i guess its not like you need to adjust them every day so not a big issue.
  20. There's 2 ways to do it, pop the cover on the back and stick in a tool and crank it over, but I find it easier to take off the drum and clean it out and do it from the front. There's two sprung levers in my drums, as they are from the old corona mx13 diff. They simply interlock, and adjustment is given by their relative positions. I can just adjust it with a screwdriver by pushing it over the required number of teeth. I always scribe the base position mark so I know where I started if I move it too much.
  21. Just catching up on a few posts here. looking good as always. Its interesting that you mention adjusting the rear brakes, are they not auto adjust? Just thinking about adjusting drum brakes gives me nightmares of those springs. Gawd those springs! If i never see drum brakes again it will be too soon.
  22. Here you can see the salts left behind by the coolant leak. This is my heater delete mod, its 5mm Aluminium plate sealed on the original gasket and holding the dipstick ala factory. This was the real culprit, this thing wasnt tight where the heater pipe lived before removal for rwd. You can clearly see the trail of the leak. I love this road, it takes you to a place called camp Somerset, it would be a great road for a time trial event, it just rolls over the hills until coming alongside the lake shore. Only downside is the 2 cattle grids, because they come up fast and unexpectedly. There's also a portaloo there, which comes in real handy after a drive. When I lowered the car, i did not realise the custom top mount brackets were in need of clearance, as they both hit the arms and kinked them. I've since put straight arms in and clearanced them properly. You can see the tell tale marks here on the brackets. And the 2 bent arms in situ awaiting removal. Dent from a Junkies Kneecap. 2azfe needs this much fuel pressure. My little flywheel locking rig. Handprint from a Meth head. Only real men hack up perfectly good things to make other things perfectly better, lol. I was particularly proud of the one hole that pierced the alloy rib all the way through. You could say bonnet clearance is not quite a thing.
  23. Putting 2 and 2 together, you see small bubbles after bleeding with the cap off at idle, it ejects the coolant at higher rpm. It could well have a blow from combustion pressure to water jacket that wont affect oiling, it will just pressurise the heck out of the cooling passages at higher revs and cylinder pressures. Compression test the engine. Pressure test the cooling system at the same time and see how much pressure in the water jacket coincides with compression events in the engine. If there's any correlation you will have your answer.
  24. Checked the measurements and both diameter of the top and depth are the same, same cap is used on both radiators. Bled the system once again with my bleeding funnel, after the thermostat opens a couple of times just really small bubbles every now and then appear. Oil is perfectly fine, no milky substance in the oil cap, nothing. Since they're the same, after I bled the system I installed the new "TRD" radiator cap I had laying around. Need to go for a run to see any improvements.
  25. Haha not likely, ended up getting $24.5k for it, went to a panel beater/painter about 15min up the road(still get visitation rights). Pretty good deal considering it made 272rwkw last week on the hub dyno next to work(only ever made 250rwkw on rollers because of traction problems)
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