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yeah, as long as it is 4mm 7 core you should be fine. Trailer plug should take the load fine!

Is the manifold for the CBR carbs or have you fitted them already and want to change? How does the motor run now? The carbs by themselves won't make much difference, but they will help with a better cam & exhaust system, and some head work.

A multimetre is a great investment for diagnosis

The R in GT40R means you need to use a ballast resistor

just checking the rotor against the terminal in the dizzy isnt good enough. that for me, has been the difference between the thing starting, or not starting at all. Test for spark, by turnign ignition on, , loosen the distributor timing nut and spin the dizzy housing with a spark plug connected directly to the coil HV outlet, and firmly grounded against the chassis first, and then if u see spark then test it grounded against the engine. If you see spark, say EUREKA, and then set the timing by putting cylinder 1 at 10 degrees before TDC ( as seen on the pulley marking), and make sure its after the intake stroke, by visually checking the valve rockers then slowly turn the dizzy until it sparks and stop right there and tighten the nut. u may need to do it twice. If u see a god spark then it means there isnt enough power when the car is cranking, as others have suggested. If u don't see a spark, check that u are getting 12 V at the coil. if not, fix that. its possible. If u saw spark when grounded to the chassis but not when grounded to the engine or viseversa, check the earth straps from engine to chassis. Copper Electrical contacts can go from 100% working to 0% just from one heat cycle. all this is based on your suggestion that there is NO or very LITTLE spark

So, was it running OK when you bought it and before you did the carb conversion?? Started easily and ran smoothly?? Have you changed the ignition system? If it is stock, check that you have 12V at the coil while cranking. Remember they have two ignition circuits to power the coil, one that by-passes the ballast resistor for starting and another through the ballasr for running. Sometimes one will work and the other not. The ballasts do break down. Anyway, after that check the points gap. If the points are burned with a volcano on one side and a hollow on the other, set the gap without going over the volcano with the feeler gauges. Just use the tips. . plenty of people have made them too wide by doing that. If you alter them, check the timing again. Your manual method is fine, but make sure you know which way the rotor turns. No good setting the points timing on the following shoulder instead of the advancing shoulder.. You can check the coil while you're in there by having the points open and sticking a screwdriver across them. The points should spark and the coil fire. If the coil doesn't, make sure there is 12V at the points. If there is, then the condensor is toast, as that is where the electricity for the coil is "stored". A leaking condensor will not store enough electricity to collapse the coil field fast enough, and give a weak spark. So, points set, timing set, coil sparking.. it should start with the right fuel/air ratio.

I personally wouldn't introduced a new igniton system till you have got the original diagnosed. what is the battery voltage, static and cranking? I am thinking the alternator wiring plug may have a poor connection after fitting headers

Hi guys names damo from the gold coast, have just purchased my first ke 30 corolla, have always been a fan looking forward to cruising soon when i finish a few bits and pieces and get some rego... Few pics of the car ive just purchased from ACT just needs some finishing touches :) Some rear venetians with factory wheels, hide that intercooler back behind a new grill and front bar should be a nice little sleeper...

Hi Ben, Dave's suggestion is excellent, as having the genuine Toyota "Yellow Bible" on the K Series, is probably one of the best investments you'll ever make, if you are going to play with a K series engine. I got one early in my journey, which covers 2K to 5K-C, and it has been invaluable. Most functions of reassembling a K Series engine are straight forward, simple, & logical, but fitting the timing chain, & aligning the crankshaft & camshaft sprockets, is one area, where if you get it wrong, it can prove dissasterous, & cause a lot of frustration, after the engine is assembled & ready to test for the first time. By that time the engine is probably already back in the engine bay, & all hooked up. The alignment is critical, & is covered in the "Yellow Bible" & the Haynes/Gregorys manuals. Essentially the timing is carried out with the engine at TDC on no: 1 & 4 cylinder. The crankshaft sprocket should be fitted first to the crankshaft, with its key fitted. The crankshaft should then be turned slightly, if required, until the "dot" marking on the outer of the crankshaft sprocket is on the lower side of the engine, and is in line with an imaginary line passing through the centre point of both crankshaft & camshaft. (see diagram in pictures below) The camshaft is then rotated, without its sprocket until the locating pin for the sprocket, lines up with inner mark on camshaft retaining plate, which again, are all in line with the imaginary line, passing through the centre points of both camshaft & crankshaft. This is now the critical point. The camshaft & crankshaft cannot be allowed to move, whilst fitting the chain. With both sprockets on a flat surface, off the engine, fit the chain to both sprockets, such that when you pick up both sprockets & chain, that they slide onto the keyway (crankshaft) & locating pin (camshaft) without rotationally moving either sprocket. When fitted, a straight edge, (like a steel ruler) should line up with both outer sprocket marks & the centre points of both crankshaft & camshaft. Actually much simpler than it sounds, when you describe it, but it is important, because if the chain is out one or two links, then the engines valve & distributor timing will be out dramatically. Have a look at the relevant scans from the manuals below, & it should all gell, as "a picture paints a thousand words". P.S. The manuals refer to markings on the chain, which I've never been able to find, because the chains are old & discoloured. Whilst laying the sprockets on a flat surface, with a straight though the centre point of both sprockets, & sprocket markings, I've just put a dab on "white Out" on the relevant link at each end to assist. Good luck, & let us know how you go. Cheers Banjo