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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/30/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    KE70 strut goes in the bin. Inserts are smaller than every good thing out there, you have to have ae86 struts as a minimum. AE86 suspension is completely compatible with ke70. Personally I prefer ra40 struts as they are like ae86 struts except you have a bigger bearing, and brake. You can buy Wilwood kits for ra40 strut from TTT if you want big brakes. A lot of people use xt130 strut, they are much like ra40 but without a bolt on caliper mount, its cast to the strut leg. Takes more work to modify the standard brakes, but there is a twin piston caliper on wagons or there's a Hilux 4 piston caliper that fits with Peugeot rotors if you search. This requires some machining on the end of the cast stalks. Dont use the ra60/sa63/rt142/ra65 or st141 strut its too odd for the chassis, and it can never quite feel right. You could also use any coil over that's built for ae86. If you like that low life, then look for something that's based off of ae92 length strut insert, which is the same as Tokico HTS, short stroke TRD, or the like. I personally had coil overs this short once on a previous car and I would categorise the ride quality as unsuitable for Australian roads. When I had the chance to build something for another car, I used the longer sw20 mr2 front strut insert and the HSD weld on 5kg coil over kit. Its ideal for what I wanted. Legal clearance, a safe amount of droop, and a car that can handle the bumps and potholes we have installed in our highways up here in QLD. I also used TTT needle bearing top hat spacers so that I didn't hear my springs adjust as I turned in carparks. This combined with sticky tires and a type 2 torsen lsd is a great traction setup, and I can run a height range thats anywhere from on its nuts to slightly lowered over stock. If your interests are drift. Then You would want it a lil stiffer than me, lower, with a stiff as possible rear swaybar, swap the torsen lsd for a clutch type 2 way so aggressive pedalling will equal more drift. The torsen looks for the most traction and sends power there, the 2 way more or less, once a certain power input is surpassed, will just burn 2 wheels and give you the feeling of a controllable burn on the wheels as opposed to just putting the power to the road. You might end up adding caster to make high speed initiations easier. More tyre pressure will get you sideways faster but limit your control when your there. Im rambling, damn holidays...
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