Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/28/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Ooh I didn't know you were a mountain biker Stu! Byron and I are off to Derby tomorrow. We normally spend most weekends these days doing dirty jumps somewhere. You've probably never seen his YouTube channel....I don't exactly plug out here.
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    ...and not only that but those Goss pumps are noisy! Hang it off a lump of rubber if you buy one.
  4. 2 points
    You can't see it's...ugh... not so healthy side, so we'll stick to the propaganda view for a while. Steve, you are a legend for the photo & making it look like that! :)
  5. 2 points
    So long overdue update. Guess I'll be doing what will become inevitable in a lot of backyard garages in the coming months (Hey let's look at the positives) and getting some work done in this!! Where to start... So shortly after run in and the initial tuning I started having some clutch issues. Wouldn't disengage fully making it hard to get into gear (especially grinding reverse) and would also want to nudge forward at the lights etc. Spent months chasing my tail with it getting new master cylinder, throw out bearings, having the fly wheel refaced etc etc etc. Finally worked out it was loose rivets in the brand new exedy pressure plate. Essentially the clamping part of the pp want disengaging parallel to the flywheel causing an edge to drag. After a pretty drawn out warranty process with exedy they finally decided to replace the kit. I can appreciate from there side though that this was: a TE72 clutch kit, mounted to a modified k series flywheel, inside a rare as rocking horse shit bell housing, using TA22 hydraulics behind a motor making about 4 times what it really should! 😂 There's still a little frustration around the situation as I spent a lot of time and moon by trying to find and fix the problem. Also that faulty pressure plate was the one that was balanced and indexed to my rotating assembly balancing for the rebuild. Anyway... I'll install that soon with another t50 I got recently as the current one likes to jump out of 4th sometimes. Head gaskets 🙄 I'm not entirely sure what's going on at the moment. When I rebuilt the motor I used a permaseal head gasket. About 500km or so in that 'blew' and I got the last 2 genuine 5k gaskets left in the country. Stuck one of those in (with the ARP's as well) and it went again not long later. When I say BHG... the only real symptom is when you start it first thing in the morning it'll run on 3... or maybe even 2 because of wet plugs where water has entered the cylinders overnight. Not heaps but enough. This is actually a slight problem a had a few years ago before I rebuilt three engine! I'm weirdly kind of 'hoping' this is a crack in the head, not really blowing gaskets! If it's not that, then it's a possible crack in the block... and that's harder to fix. Pretty sure that may have been found when the machine shop had the block for boring as well. Anyway watch this space. Things happening soon to 'help contain fluids' 😏 Oh and the contents of that cardboard box is a whole other side project!
  6. 2 points
    Got some good photos... Now it a matter of grinding & welding.. I came back to Orange today for a dental appmt, and 50km out they ph'd and said the University is cancelling all the clinics. So, we should be back into it this weekend! Nothing unexpected broke, everything we manufactured worked well, especially the suspension, so its a case of copy it over and improve each piece a little.
  7. 2 points
    I had the same issue with my daughters KE55 auto. It was a blocked idle jet. Best thing to do is rebuild the carby. I think I paid $45 for the gasket kit. It took me about 2 hours to remove strip clean and rebuild it. Heaps cheaper than a Weber and a whole lot less hassle.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    I did a half-arsed search on eBay and found some half decent tail lights for $40 each. Gave them a wash, spent half a day masking them up and gave them a quick spray with gloss black reconditioning paint. They came up ok! Next best thing to Levin lights anyway.. old new !
  10. 1 point
    Flatty and slanty are quite different from the screen forward- bonnet, (longer & different slant) guards, indicators, headlights, radiator panel, grille, scuttle by the screen, stone tray under the bumper... I have a spotless rustfree beige flatfront bonnet in Orange, but its not the sort of thing to mail readily.
  11. 1 point
    Hi James, Try this basic one for starters. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ilRYuGcPkI ebay cheapie ! They work, but need to be isolated mechanically of rubber mounts. Cheers Banjo
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Hi James, Welcome aboard ! Are you looking for a mechanical pump to replace the OEM one one the front LHS of the engine, or are you toying with possibly, switching over to an electric pump, which has some advantages, & disadvantages ? The original OEM pumps were very reliable, but asked to suck fuel from a long way back. I once had a mechanical pump that would not deliver. After trying two other pumps, with the same results, I came to the conclusion, that my issue was not the pump at all. Issue was a not perfect seal in the fuel line, that was almost undetectable, but pushed the pump beyond its limits. Only found it by running a long piece of plastic hose from the tank to the pump input. It worked perfectly, so hence I went looking for the point, where it was sucking in air. It you go electric, & mount the pump in the rear of the car, this has the advantage, that the suction line is short, & the bulk of the fuel line from the back of the car, to the carby inlet, is under pressure, not vacuum. However, the disadvantage is, that you must add some safety features to ensure the pump is powered down, if the car is involved in an accident. Lets know your thoughts. Cheers Banjo
  14. 1 point
    Surely by now every k engine has either been repurposed into a great wall or requires a rebuild.
  15. 1 point
    Yep same deal Yes its just a fun streeter/cruiser,I'm not ruining it by turning into a drag car If i wanted to go fast.. I woudnt use a k motor. I just wanted something different Shoudnt even be laggy at all... Only rev to 6-6200rpm aswell.
  16. 1 point
    Yeah, simplicity and Trav kept majority of it for the LS. Speaking of gearbox upgrade, I've got a cable actuated k to w50 setup for sale at moment.
  17. 1 point
    Well, amazingly enough the Purple People Eater was ready on time and the gang headed out this afternoon. 3Hrs down to the coast for the Love Motorsport Rallysprint, there's only one job left to do. Apparently Bunnings plumbing insulation foam tube at $2.50/M is no longer good enough to cover the rollcage, and we need FIA-approved foam tube at $70/900mm !! WTF! No wonder motorsport is full of rich wankers poncing around in their tailor-made driving suits having never held a spanner, and meanwhile no working man can afford to enter! When we asked which part of the regulations said that, we were told it wasn't in the regulations, but we will need it to compete... There is plenty of non-FIA approved padding for sale on the web and it a lot less to buy! So, which official hold the import licence I wonder?
  18. 1 point
    Exciting news news in the Parrot household as I finally have a shed that does justice to the collection! A three car garage! I will now have all three cars in a position where they can actually be worked on, instead of crammed down the side of the current garage where they are essentially inaccessible. Meanwhile the AE86 won’t be permanently covered in sawdust from son’s bat repairs. In a few months after settlement you can expect a photo with the doors up and cars inside! Wife says, you will have to throw some of your old parts out. Err no says I. I’ll be putting in racking for those. Oh, there is a house attached but that’s the boring bit.
  19. 1 point
    Tyre wear is the cost of lowered geometry... Add more toe-in to spread that inner tread wear across the tyre, it will wear evenly but still faster than normal. Grab your spirit level and verniers, as banjo said, and get take readings of the rim top & bottom. This will give you how many mm camber, which you can turn into degrees if you want to with a little pythagoras. Then jack it up, take the nuts off the strut and push the strut top out to the outside to see how many mm you gain before the spring hits the turret, or the strut center hits the edge of the turret hole. If its the spring hitting the turret, then this is the limit of your camber tops. If the spring hits the turret quite quickly, then its coil-over time, as the small diameter spring give you more camber adjustment. it all depends on how low it is. RCAs wont help this but will help stop the bump steer. The lower control arms must hang down slightly at rest, so as they go up they first push the strut out, then as they go further they arc it in. The bump steer caused by this gets more extreme the further from horizontal they are, and I expect yours are always aiming upwards.
  20. 1 point
    Hi James, Have you put the car on a flat concrete floor, & measured the camber that has resulted from the lowering ? Even if you don't have one of those little electronic inclinometers; with a straight- edge across the rim edges, in a vertical plane, with a spirit level, you should get a good idea. If you take Colin's advice, & get a wheel alignment, the camber & caster angles will be measured, as part of that service, & will be noted on your report. What are all the rubber bushes, ball joints, & steering pivot bushes like on the front end ? The McPherson strut design was cheap to manufacture, but does have some nasty results, if everything is not just right. Gets even nastier, if you start changing the geometry dramatically. Cheers Banjo
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    So we are in the new place as of yesterday, and the AE86 is the first to make it across today. Got an unregistered single use permit and drove across via the “most direct route”. Of course initially the car didn’t want to start, but some new 98 octane sorted that out. Then on a tentative initial excursion there was a bit of a rattle from the front right. Turned out the top nut on the damper insert was slightly loose. Then the drive across. Hella fun to drive after all this time! The other two will now need to come on a truck and then I can get things underway at last
  24. 1 point
    I'd be checking your wheel alignment first. Darting around over bumps could be a sign of excessive toe out in the front end. Toe out may be causing your tyre wear as well.
  25. 1 point
    Picked up a AE93 SX for a parts car for $200 as the owner thought the motor was stuffed. Ended up just being the vac sensor not hooked up properly. Runs perfect now. Body is rough as so everything from that one will be going into mine, eventually the 4AGE will make it's way over as well. Started off swapping the seats over. Top is before bottom is after. Test fitted the SX wheels, sadly they hit the coilovers on the rear. Chucked on the SX wing, digging it without the side sections for now. With the SX grill. And the strut brace. Mainly bought the SX for the disc brake rear end, so all these other parts are just a bonus! Especially the 4AGE!
  26. 1 point
    Start with this- https://www.dropbox....adfile.jpg?dl=0 and see if the black solenoid activator wire gets 12V at the starter when you turn the key to start. Check ALL the circuits, just to see what isn't working and if it shares a fuse. Depending on the country some KE70 had relays in the starter circuit, some didn't. Another one to watch is people converting auto to manual, there will be a starter cutout wire by the gear lever that must be hooked up. When you have checked all the circuits, find out which one melted the fusebox and stop it from happening again. You should never replace a fuse without finding out what blew it. The fact it has a push button sounds dodgy, you're relying on someone else's wiring to be good, so check all that carefully.
  27. 1 point
    Nice to see a successful conversion with the bugs ironed out! My 4AGE still dies at idle or speeds up, one day I'll sort it out! That's a tall motor alright, a difficult one to fit.
  28. 1 point
    With the cage back in the dash could be re-fitted, and I started on the Terratrip wiring again. This was all fine and we had bench-tested the new probes 6months back, but it wouldn't count! Turns out the probes are directional in wiring, a +ve and -ve so to speak, and I had, by luck, got both of them round the wrong way! That's all tidied up and working now, but before then we thought we'd try the Terratrip unit in Mao, where it had been used before we fitted a new connector on it. Of course modern connectors are for very small wires.. so we might have to go over Mao's wiring again.. Now, some people believe that you can tie a nail onto a piece of string and drop it down a length of poly hose, then pull an electric fence wire through, so you can lay it on the ground between fences at gates... When this didn't work we did try blasting it through with the 12V air compressor & a tissue. It worked 'in the lab' for 2M, but when we were out with a 70M length of poly and straight in with the fence wire it didn't work at all! Damm, another great idea down the drain! So, time to head home.. Now, what could this road "worker" be doing?? He used to hold a lollipop and turn it around as soon as the opposing traffic had come through the road works... Now he sits here watching the cars as the new traffic lights hold us up for AGES after the opposing cars have gone, as they're on a timer! A lot of people need to be fired if Australia is ever going to get more efficient!! This fascination with OSHA and safety could handle a big wind-back too!
  29. 1 point
    wow how about that. nearly a year since my last post. well I m still alive and married and still have the project cars. soon to have a "proper" sized shed to put everything in so I can actually do something with these things too...…..
  30. 1 point
    "If we made a huge jump in climate action (whatever that means..what does it mean?), what is the worst that can happen? " Well.. The obvious one is that we might spend hundreds of billions of taxpayer money investing in stuff that has no return. That may give us an unworkable electricity grid with power so variable we have daily blackouts for a few hours here and there, like most of Africa. Of course the taxpayers don't have hundreds of billions, so the Govt will borrow it & expect the next generation to pay it back, which means the next block of Govts will just inflate the shit out of money until the debt is worthless. Its really about heading down a dead-end road. Comparable to spending Australia's energy budget just mining Bitcoin, then having everyone rush off and use something else. There is a lot of ways to throw money away, and Govts know them all. Of course we may still be whining about global warming and pouring money in when the next ice-age hits and you'll never find a politician or "influencer" who would own up to their stupidity! I'd be quite happy is there were no regulations forcing people to use renewables, and no subsidies. That way we will get new ideas that are actually economic. But instead some brainless shit on Council in Orange calling for Council to "create a market for recycling"!! That's is the epitome of throwing ratepayer's money away! We should have all that stuff running on private investment, so when enough people believe in it they will adopt it. Maybe we should be adopting one of the many newer forms of nuclear energy. Maybe we should just burn coal or gas and grab the particulates & sulphur from the exhaust, but while its politics and not economics, we can't discover the real price of energy. As for the IPCC, NONE of their predictions in the last 20 years has come true, so they just don't count!
  31. 1 point
    That looks pretty great. That dashboard looks awesome. Plenty of upgrade options from camshafts, to carbies, to 2TG swaps all the way up to SR20 swaps. and I personally would look at putting the 2TG efi on the 2tc. if you can find the bits easy enough in your region. But yer all these options rely on a level of DIY to keep the costs below astronimical.
  32. 1 point
    Wow that is a beauty. don't underestimate the 2TC. I had one in a Celica many years ago and with basic head work plus compression, mid range cam, exhaust, lightened fly wheel and twin Weber side draft carbs it screamed. Plus assuming you are US based, a 3TC upgrade gives you 200 extra cc. This sort of work isn’t hard, and is hella fun. The ‘modern’ way is to install a newer EFI engine, but bolting the engine/trans/diff in is the easy bit. The fuel and electrical systems are not. And unless you can do this yourself, will cost quite a bit. And then you may also need to look at upgrading brakes etc. With the T engine, the brakes can probably remain with an overhaul and better pads. Do some reading around the forum and go from there. Oh, and welcome! Keep us updated perhaps with a build thread.
  33. 1 point
    Sourced all n.o.s tierods/ballljoints,steering bush all the rubbers including the previously unattainable lower control arm bushes
  34. 1 point
    Put fake original ex tip on the dumpy
  35. 1 point
    Lots of great updates there. Anika is growing up fast! Ive used NPC a few times now, great company to deal with.
  36. 1 point
    Pretty close to the perfect size.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Is this still available and what colour ? Text me on 0419897208 thanks
  41. 1 point
    Hey Chums, Bit of an update on the rolls. So I bought it earlier this year, had it running with the mighty K motor for a few months. Decided the 3k just wasn't doing anything it for me and had some spares kicking around from my Celica, figured I'd 3tc swap it... And while I was in the process a turbo and j160 6 speed would be easier to do at the time rather than down the track. So I rebuilt the 3t with stock 3tgte internals, made a manifold, tail shaft, cross member, converted it to hydraulic clutch, remote brake booster etc. Thats pretty much it for now, just been running on 7psi and having a bit of fun with it. In the process of sorting out an intercooler, before I up the boost a bit, going to run a water to air cooler on top of the rocker cover. Also have a M78 commodore diff I'm shortening at the moment for it. Cheers Jack.
  42. 1 point
    Hey Jose, thanks mate, this is the windscreen rubber i got, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE20-FRONT-SEDAN-WAGON-WINDSCREEN-WINDSHIELD-RUBBER/142683394856?hash=item213897d328:g:YlMAAOxyY9VRU5vt:rk:14:pf:0 and lock strip, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Locking-Strip-Front-Rear-Windscreen-Corolla-Ke20-25-30-35-55s/192378422830?hash=item2ccaa5c62e:g:Kr0AAOSwh1haHLOD:rk:3:pf:0
  43. 1 point
    here u go dood. Tridon do have the 71 degrees one. part number is TT240-160 FYI, all these will fit the k series... Temp. Part No. 71°C TT240-160 82°C TT240-180 89°C TT240-192 https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/tridon-tt240-160 $16
  44. 1 point
    Got some TE37 goodies! The grill is in good condition and just needs a clean up, trims polished and I'll pop it in when the front is back together. The tail lights are a little rougher though and will need a bit of work before they go on the car. I'll pop them back in the box for now - just glad I got a set!
  45. 1 point
    Name: Taylor Car: 1983 Toyota Corolla KE70 Wagon Motor: 4k Suspension & Brakes: stock Wheels: MA61 ( buying new rims recently bought this beauty and I'm quite happy with the condition because its quite clean especially the paint, and interior apart from a few nicks, also the air con works haha..
  46. 1 point
    Hey Stuart, Sorry mate but progress on the old girl has really slowed up lately. I have been swamped with work and study while trying to juggle family life. I have however had a chance to assess what needs to be finished so once I find some spare time hopefully things can start moving along nicely. Luke
  47. 1 point
    Do you have any pushrods - looking for specific type that will work in a 3K. Need to be 173.5mm long (174MM at longest). These are slightly shorter than most and we need 'big cup end' type. Appreciate any help. Thanks, Gary
  48. 1 point
    hold on a second, have you actually tried this or are you repeating what others on the RC have said (it's been mentioned a few times). I tried to do this when I dropped the 5K in and it doesn't work. Can't remember why, but it was enough of a problem that I went back to KE1x units.
  49. 1 point
    i sure hope this thing is putting out more than my 20 is currently...then again, it's not all that hard to beat 26.2rwkW :y: but don't worry, that'll change soon. can't wait to see it again in the flesh. cheers dF
  50. 1 point
    I've put in another guage cluster into my KE30, and I have the problem of the fuel gauge needle being 1/4 lower than normal. With a full tank of petrol, the gauge reads 3/4, when it used to be up to the "F". I think the gauge cluster might of been from a KE35. Does anyone know how to adjust the fuel gauge? I can't see any adjustment screw at the the back of the gauge. Bruce
×
×
  • Create New...