Sam_Q

well those engine mounts should never give you any greif

here you go: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/in...680&hl=7age http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/board/in...130&hl=7age

a very interesting conversion, got a rollcage in that?

my cooling guide is crap, but I have something decent in the works. In the meantime I can help you with any questions related to cooling or many other 20V questions should you need it. Have you been here: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/faq/index.php/Main_Page

oh I don't know about that my 20v had heaps of mid range power with what felt like a tottaly linear power curve, but what may seem like heaps to me may be crap to you, without a dyno who knows eh?

looks really good, to split the ball joint the best way is to get a tool made specificly to do that job, they are available fairly cheaply. 5mm should be fine for mounts providing the force is even across the mount.

hey thats in fairly good condition, seems like a really good deal to me

I see what you mean however if I were to unplug the alternator sense or something like that to stop it working it would start mis-firing everywhere regardless of my battery state. But if I started the engine and then disconnected the battery completely and had the alternator working it would still run great. I believe my ignition system needs the extra volatge that the alternator outputs during normal operation because of a quirk of the DLI converter design suing the dumb ignitors, as in they don't control their own dwell like Toyota ones do. edit: I need to start tripple checking things I write when I get more tired, what I said didnt even make sense to me

yeah it would of had 12V when I first drove it. I charged the battery with a self regulated charger so I know it would of been that. My ignition system needs the higher voltage of an alternator output to run right, and it was misfiring for as soon as I start driving it. I am guessing its the same for other cars too which is why drag racers run 15V batteries or 12 to 15V converters instead of running an alternator.

silver, I would paint it silver again if I could get the same colour in a spray can. If you ask me it aint silver but a light metalic grey. Also yeah thanks for the compliment, wasnt hard to make and I would hate to think doing it any other way. I learnt my leason not to use the "proper" valve removing tool and use this with a G-clamp instead. I wouldnt of had to get another collet sent from new zeland had I known better before for my other engine.

no big updates for a while because i have been working on my house and crap but I did take a week off work and change my engine. I had my spare engine dropped off to me, I took the head off, took it to bits, ported it, match-ported it, changed all the seals and gasket and put it back together. From here I put it in my car and drove it, pics: Engine out a kaizen dizzy cover fitted and my cooling gear swapped over, both were modified by counter-boring the holes to fit flush fitting bolts. new engine in My valve removal tool I made up, still a hard job for me. The result? it ran like a total dog, missfiring all over the place and lacking power everywhere. Four days later broken down on the side of the road I find out why and it was so obvious looking back, when the engine was swapped the alternator was also, and the whole time I was driving around with the alternator not working. Seems like my ignition system doesnt like working off 12V instead of 14V+ maybe due to me running dumb ignitors with an impedance matched coil to make up for it or something.

also unless your a miracle worker any fj20 will need a massive rebuild to make it reasonable again

oh your running doors now? the novelty! hehehee good work on the event, I wish I could of been there.

well I am going to find out next weekend when I try and fit my ra40 axle, so what the holes are close or way off?

don't worry about appologies I know know what a lack of time is like. 1. not sure but the standard injectors should flow enough 2. in theory it should work on either engine but I havent heard the results from anyone doing it 3. no idea, I would think that any gearbox made for a 4a engine would work? 4. this is a highly debated topic and it varies car to car, I sujest upgrading your srings and shocks beforehand but thats just my personal opinion.

yeah fair enough, looks like you spent a fait bit of time making it fit right for which I commend you for. I wil let you know if I update that guide as its seriously short on info right now.

run the engine in 16V rear wheel drive spec, click on the link in my signiture. I am in the middle of rewriting the article though.

whoa, that must of taken some serious work, have you thought about getting rid of those external cooling system pipes?

looks great, I love it

yes thats because they are both the later models, I was comparing the later model 4/7a head to the earlier model 4a head. Late model 7A looms + ecu + heads should be very easy to come by. I think thats the better options as my vernia tells me it has an unusually large amount of valve lift 8.6mm!!

theres also an increase in the total combustion chamber area and flame travel which is a big reason why modern engines have narrow angle heads, even the very high performing ones. If you want to know what works best check out a motorbike head.

I would doubt that the wiring loom would plug into the the newer ecu let alone be the same, however I think it wouldnt be that hard to transplant both the ecu and full harness, probably be cheap as. I wonder if theres a real difference between the later model 7afe ecu and the later 4afe ecu. I would think the loom would be the same. I tottaly agree with you on the potential, I did plan on ditching my blacktop head for a 7afe head after-all. So what mods did your friends do? I think that figure would be misleading though as even with 80kw I am sure they would be killing many 4age engines because of the killer torque.

yes from what I hear from the south africans there is quite a bit you can do to these engines to make them perform suprisingly well. I am thinking that going off what Hiro said that maybe theres an option to take all the sensors/wires/injectors off your current head and then put it on the new head with its manifold. With the cold start injector weld a new boss in the intake manifold to hold it. This is definately not my area but I think it might be posible to get the original ecu to accept this different head. Do you know what I mean? Hey I need to go to the wrecker soon anyway because I think my diff center is just about to have a small contained explosion any time now so while I am there I can compare injector plugs/placement/interchangablility or all sensors. Ah its a pity your not in Vic What did you have in mind for mods anyhow? I can tell you whats been reported to me on what works, you can dismiss cams for one.

oops I misread it, now I can have a proper answer. The combustion chambers are a different shape between the two engines and I believe that going to the later head would cause it to the lower the compression a bit but if this is the case then fitting a 7a gasket should help that. the whole intake and probably the ecu with its wiring harness would need to be changed also, however these are probably available dirt cheap. I believe the exhuast side is the same

If it is the earlier series of engine then the intake side of the engine would be tottaly different. The earlier head has a nasty port design and it would be highly unrecomended to downgrade to it when the later heads are faily easy to come by. Just curious why would you want to do it?