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Hiro Protagonist

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Posts posted by Hiro Protagonist

  1. So we've managed now to roll over a good 6 months before resisting the temptation to do any modifications (wife at least wanted it to get to the first service completely stock, and OEM floor mats/boot liner/weathershields don't count as mods in my book).  First thing on the cards was to give it a little more oomph in the noise department, however one problem about the Aus-spec ZRE182 is that the exhaust system is different from the ZRE186 that most of the world got (due to torsion-beam vs IRS) which means tracking down aftermarket parts can be quite exhausting (pun intended).  However, it does actually share a lot of things in common with the previous model ZRE152 (including suspension and exhaust), and by sheer coincidence someone was selling a 152 TRD axleback (that they had on a 182 so I knew it would fit) - couldn't say no to that.

    After a few weeks of sitting in my mate's shed (too far for me to pick up and too expensive to post) I finally got my hands on it, only to then have to jet off to China for work for two weeks, only getting back less than 24 hours before I had to leave again for Toyotafest.  Took another 2 weeks before I managed to jag a break in both my schedule and the weather, but fortunately as far as mods go this was probably the easiest I have ever done (2 bolts and one rubber exhaust hanger).

    by Ian Rigby, on Flickr

    Comparison between the stock axleback and the TRD unit - interestingly the TRD muffler is actually smaller, and the exhaust tip sticks out quite a bit further (which is good since the stock one is hidden way up behind the bumper).


    The TRD tip sits quite low too, no doubt to take in to account the TRD bodykit for the ZRE152 (which obviously the 182 doesn't have) - only really stands out if you're looking dead level at it, from head height or one the road it looks fine.  Sounds is nicely improved without being intrusive or obnoxious, and would easily pass even current stupidly stringent noise tests.  Most noticeable off the line as well as during engine-braking and coming to a stop, very little booming or resonance at highway speeds which is also nice (always worse in a hatchback) and at some speeds/engine-loads you can barely tell it is there.

    Next step is probably some kind of lowering, but that'll probably have to wait until bonus-time next year.

  2. On 9/30/2018 at 7:06 AM, LittleRedSpirit said:

    Aus-spec 7AFE AE102s have the knock sensor, 4AFE AE101s don't.  The EPG you listed too is technically for the Jap-built AE102 Sprinter (which were imported here in limited quantities for only a few years, the actual Aus-built AE10x doesn't appear in most of the online EPGs), and does call up the knock sensor anyway in the Electrical/Switch and Relay and Computer tab


    Also, '94 could mean a late-model AE9x 7AFE Ultima/RV.

  3. 3 hours ago, Big G said:

    Ok so the Princess' ke55 has had some intermittent starting problems over the last short while. It takes very little to jump start it. I have looked high and low for something draining the system to no avail. Today I went to start her up so the Princess could go to work and she would barely turn over. So I jumped started her no problem. When I was connecting the leads to the battery I noticed that the positive terminal clamp was cracked and not as tight as it could be. My question is if it is slightly lose will that impair the charge ability of the alternater and then because it's lose it will make for hard starting. I need to get a new terminal clamp but the Princess likes original where possible. Is there a retailer out there that makes the original cable and clamps complete.

    Not sure about charging but a loose (or tight but decaying) positive terminal 100% will give you intermittent starting problems, usually when it is cold as things shrink and the tiny bit of contact is lost.

  4. 18 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

     Old motors now, for blocks that can't be re-bored.

    You can over-bore and then sleeve them, Bill/Xoom did this in his turbo ZZE123 Sportivo.


    I lucked out and got an engine with only 127,000k on it, should still be factory-fresh.

  5. Big problem with RWD-converting 2ZZs is that there aren't spots on the block for the engine-mounts, since they were only ever a transverse installation (in the Corolla/Celica/Lotus/MR2 3 of the 4 "engine" mounts actually attach to the gearbox)


    Assuming that could be sorted, J160 would be a no-brainer.  2ZZs _need_ a 6-speed behind them to keep them on the boil, even with the stock C60/64 gearing they drop out of lift going between 1st and 2nd unless you slam the change and slip the hell out of the clutch, which is why most people fit aftermarket ECUs/piggybacks to lower the lift engagement point (that, and Toyota deliberately programmed it higher so that the kick was more pronounced, not faster)

  6. 10W40 is fine for a 7A, I've run mine with anything from 10W30 all the way up to 20W60.  10W or 15W40 is probably the sweet spot for affordability vs modern thin oil, 10W30 just seems like a waste for what is essentially a 25yo engine design (the 7A is essentially unchanged from when it was first introduced in 1993).

  7. 5 hours ago, B.L.Z.BUB said:

    Gear link skateboard bearing bushes went well until the 2nd one didn't fit. 


    But it fit snug inside this socket, and the socket fit snug inside the linkage. 




    Yeah the skateboard-bearings-for-linkage-bushes idea was based around AE92 and JDM-spec shift linkages which had equal-sized bushes, for some reason the Aus-spec AE101/102s had unequal-sized ones (despite being essentially the same 'box) so most of the kits out there on the internet don't fit the bigger eyelet.

  8. 54 minutes ago, B.L.Z.BUB said:

    Well my knowledge of this chassis just went from zero to +1 lol. 

    I will never not point out the difference.  Won't really mean much to you since the biggest difference between the two is the engine (AE101 is 4AFE/4AGE, AE102 is 7AFE), but there still are some trim differences as well as things like brakes etc.

  9. So whilst technically this is the wife's car, I'm the one burdened with modifications, taking photos, and posting of pictures/stories in the appropriate forums.
    Introducing Daphne.  Yes, we like to name all our cars.  However, the first name my wife chose (Artoo, since she loves R2D2 and the blue is perfect) didn't quite gel when we decided after the first few days of ownership that HE was actually a SHE.  So far, Daphne has come out as the likeliest alternative, but we're still not 100% sold on the name so it may change again the future.
    Anyhoo, Daffers is a 2018 Toyota Corolla Ascent Sport in Blue Gem metallic.  She is kitted out as standard with 16" alloy wheels, fog lights, 7" full touchscreen infotainment system with 6-speaker audio, Bluetooth and the optional Sat Nav pack.  Interestingly, all the petrol models (which all have the exact same 2ZRFE engine) are chassis code ZRE182, which means they have a torsion-bar rear end, whilst the Hybrid is a ZWE186 which gives it the same IRS that the Auris and the US-spec I'm have.  Sucks to be us sometimes.
    I'm yet to give her a really good wash (first road-trip to Sydney last weekend and a week's worth of daily commute for my wife has left her a little dusty), but figured I should at least get some nice photos to kick off the memories before we start doing anything serious to her.  These were taken at the Walka Water Works, which is an old 19th-century Victorian/Italianate pumping station that used to supply water to the Maitland and Newcastle regions, but is now part of a public recreation reserve.  Great spot for photos, although I wasn't taking too much effort and probably should have waited another hour or so for the golden hour light.
    by Ian Rigby, on Flickr
  10. 5 hours ago, 1995Craig said:

     I was planning on going off the console switch for the central locking BTW how does that come out - just wriggle and lift maybe?


    You might be able to pry it up with a trim removal tool but otherwise it's safer to take the back half of the centre console out (not hard, two screws on the side and two bolts inside the box) and press the clips in from underneath

  11. On 2/12/2018 at 2:51 PM, Banjo said:

    It appears it is at the back of the engine, not the front, up high, & controls the cooled coolant, rather than hot water to the top of the radiator, as in the K series. 

    FWD A-series engines (4AGE, 4AFE, 7AFE etc) have the thermostat on the bottom radiator hose to control the reentry of coolant from the radiator back in to the engine.

  12. Not questioning your judgement or your eyesight, but being in an underground apartment complex is it possible that it was just a normal brushed stainless finish and the poor lighting gave it the bronze effect?  Having photographed car shows in underground carparks before, the lighting is normally terrible for white-balance and correct colour matching...


    I've personally seen a couple of DMC-12s, there's one up at the Lost in the 50s car museum in Newcastle as well as the Gosford Classic Car Museum, both are LHD models though from memory and both are the normal stainless finish.

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