camerondownunder88

For reference...Two different length steering shafts are to be found in KE1X cars. Learnt this hard way after rebuilding a steering box new bearings etc I used a shoft shaft.... So ou need to have long shaft and wheel and indicator assy to suit or short and short stuff to suit. Pain in the ass really..lol But long and short shafts in steering boxes can be swapped EASY...As worm geear DOES fail in these items so good to be done keep cars steering safely.

So Todays tinkering. Other week I bought this part cheap so couldnt say no. Genuine TRD items. It is a fuel cap for the zze123. So pics below. Fairly easy to install adds 0Kw..and only I will ever see it when I fill up at fuel station...lol Before: After: Item in packet:

At a quick look id say the aircon pulley has shat its self. The clutch you are holding in the photos is on the front. If you have this there is probably only hopes and dreams holding the pullet on the bearing with belt. Clutch will be sold as an assembly new pullet bearing etc. Id graba whole new assembly. Probably wont be cheap but hit up Toyota dealer and haggle. Cameron P.S. Throw up some pics of the engine bay for us.

Yeah one of the first cars I have owned with no 1/4 vent windows :( feels weird.... So this must be changed LOL

Good Thinking Dave. However with my lack of sewing skills I didnt pick up at school in year 8 it would take me longer. I have a plan but to fix this problem ;) But Update time. I do a lot of bike riding so once I get car nice adn clean etc I want to keep it that way for as long as possible. So instead of putting dirty bikes in car I took oportunity the other day ot fit a full set of roof racks and bike mount for the car. I compaired a few brands and at the end of the day can't beat Thule. So I bought up. I got the new black anodized aero bars with feet and mount kit and one Pro ride roof rack so I don't have to take off wheels and then car will fit MTB and BMX in a matter of seconds. So for those playing at home the mount kit for this model corolla is: 1205 This is for corolla 4dr sedan, SPortivo and RunX hatch. from 2000 till 2006. Pics for enjoyment. Above pic is before install. Above is the roof with just the roof racks installed. With racks and bike mount on side. And another pic complete.

Well long story short. I was driving around in my QNC21 Toyota bB import and decided I want to get back into a KE corolla. So I found a KE11 rusted to hell and back in a back yard cheap. Bought it restored it (well cut out rust) drove it daily loved it. But decided I want something a tad newer for the daily since I had a KE15 sprinter and not a corolla. Well I went looking for something A) Cheap, B) Fairly easy on the service and reliable C)Bland D) didn't care what it was. So I started looking around Camry, i20, subis anything.....Till I stumbled upon THIS car. It is a 2005 Toyota Sportivo with 160,000km on it. Factory serviced till 120,000Km and smelt like a really good curry had been once cooked IN THE CAR. SO after grabbing a meal (made me hungry) and leaving it a few days I made an offer and it was accepted by the seller YAY!.....So after thinking I won't get a corolla...I'm straight back into one. So car as it sits: 2005 Toyota Corolla Sportivo ZZE123R. South African made Engine: 2zz-ge Fitted Solid engine mounts. Sub Engine Systems: Cooling: TRD Radator cap 1.3kg/cm^2 Radator Cooling pannel to control air flow into radator Fuel System: TRD fuel cap installed Ignition System: Stock Air Intake: Stock Exhaust: Stock Driveline: Stock 6 speed close ratio box Solid Brass shifter cable bushings added Factory TRD shifter installed on solid mounts TRD light weight resin gear knob Suspension: Stock struts Added Ultra Brace mid point brace on inside of car Factory Rear TRD strut brace Factory Front TRD strut brace Laile Front Preformance bar/brace Brakes: APP braided brake lines installed Body: Added Thule Roof racks with one bike mount BAD PARTS TO FIX: Shabby with parts missing ie: fog light. Interior: Factory optional floor mats fitted. Factory optional boot/bumper scuff guard Factory optional TRD sports pedal set BAD PARTS TO FIX: Stiching in drivers seat come apart, missing plastic door in centre console, small hole in rear seat and more etc. Electrical: SUPER LIGHT WEIGHT LiPo Battery Fitted Factory 6 stack has dead volume knob, drivers side guard indicator blown bulb parker lights don't work blown. Wheels: Rota Mini lite knock offs wrapped in RE002 Bridgestone tires So Pics of the car the day I picked it up: Above pic shows the COOL side reflector things car has. Front of car. Can see drivers side fog light missing. Missing side skirt pic :( TRD badge :) This must mean it has factory fitted gear knob in Australia. So first venture into FWD corollas. Has a few more kW than the old modded 4K KE11 so fun car to sit in traffic in and makes for a good cruiser. Plans are to more or less keep it NEAT reliable and enjoyable and functional. But I am a big fan of using all the car options from the horn to the last digit on the speedo and tacho. So while being daily driven I want to become a better driver and KNOW what the car can do and see what mods ACTUALLY do being positive or a negative change. So expect to see some track sessions with car and we'll see how it goes. After getting it home but I gave it a wash and a MAJOR service. I Changed engine oil, changed all THREE engine oil filters, Changed gearbox oil, changed air filter, changed coolant, changed engine drive belt, removed rocker cover checked cam clearance, Flushed brake fluid and replaced, Flushed clutch fluid and replaced, Flushed power steering fluid and replaced and replaced window washer water sent for a wheel alignment and rotation I also replaced parker light bulbs adn head light bulbs and side indicator bulb. So a full comprehensive service. Car I find not to hard to work on. Being south African made most items have become lose and rattle so I have spent time during service replacing clips glues rubbers etc so car doesn't rattle as much. For the service either OEM fluids/parts used or good quality Penrite full synthetic oils used etc. So I plan to mod one section of the car at once so I don't have 17 unfinished random projects on it and a mountain of parts laying around my shed. However as we all know late night internet searches can lead you into buying parts and not thinking so we'll see how we go. So anything missing Ill see if I can replace with a better item if not OEM and well make it a complete car. So first target will be the body. The body has seen better days and with parts missing looks shabby as and for a daily I want neat. Not show car but neat. So on a quick walk around car is missing: Drivers side skirt, Fog light, Guard liners, engine under tray/stone shield, dent on fuel cap door, scratches here and there, clips missing to hold bonnet rod and washer lines in and yellow head lights. Along with neat after spending some time on Google images I found with few small additions these cars can look pretty trick. So I want to track down a pair of C-one wing tips for rear spoiler and mag wheels one day. However I really like the stock wheel so I may never get mags. Now the scratches in the paint are small and with a good wax and wash not in that order they fade away If I get any serious body work done Ill probably get light touch ups done but for now scratches aren't deep no rust so they will be left. Scratches and a small dent on passenger front guard look like car park dents. I will be driving this daily so I am not too worried about these. So first things first I want to track down a driver's side skirt and assorted factory clips to hold it in place. As car looks bare without it. Clips Ill get part numbers and order from Toyota. I know the side skirts varied a lot throughout the Tivo's model range. The Levin has different skirts to the Tivo's etc. So I will need to find an update Tivo side skirt this could prove hard. Along with side skirt clips for the washer lines and bonnet rod and other things will be sourced from a wrecker. I have found guard liners always seem to be removed or destroyed on cars at wreckers so these I shall source NEW OEM items for. Not the biggest fan of non genuine parts WITH some exceptions.... Fog light. Well my Tivo is an update model. This being so the fog lights went from rectangle items to nice round units. I have NOT been able to find one at a wrecker or on ebay so this item will be ordered NEW OEM. Big hole in front bumper makes me nervous. Car has minimal factory options so I will also talk to Toyota see what I can order and get on the car also. But after I got car home I gave it a quick wash and snapped these pics again. Enjoy: Above pic shows the busted glove box latch. Will need attention ASAP Rear of car. Looks a tad bland I think spoiler tips will fix this Side of car. TO think these sit lower than a base model corolla. Also pulled off reflector thing on door. Will wait for glue and sticky tape to perish in sun and slowly remove residue with minimal chemicals etc. Drivers side. Can see missing skirt again looks extra bland Rear seat. Thik of the possible kids in the world that exist thanks to this rear seat....... Front seat. The steering wheel cover is SOOOO dangerous. Doesnt grip wheel well and wheel turns INSIDE of it. Dangerous so getting removed ASAP. Steering wheel leather 100% missing so will need new steering wheel replacment. Engine BROOM..... So watch this thread as I venture into the world of late model blandness and FWD antics and see what happens. Cameron

If lag puts you off turbos Just hyper charge the car. Engine is at idle while turbo is at full power/boost. Those F1 turbos but I wont lie get me excited. The pure design having a copper winding on a turbo shaft doing 100,000RPM and a shaft THAT LONG the bending dynamics in it DAM! Nice peice of kit there. But ah will be another 5 years till road cars see that technology... :(

Yeah I did jsut throw up soem turbo sizes from my butt there. But the WRX turbo the old T04 look around can be had CHEAP so yeah go forth and look..... Cameron P.S. I say cheap as most WRX guys want to upgrade so from a turbo repair shop I got an overhauled wrx turbo for $50 once never used since rebuild so look hard they are out there. But I think a turbo K car turbo is probably one of the cheapest parts lol

Exactly don't ditch it...Run turbo normal orientation a nice small CT12a or other GT15 garret sized turbo will tuck in nicely. Can be done ;)

And the Turbo Is BRAND new to so not worn. A large turbo that has no water jacket also uses oil for cooling so a LOT of oil flows through them and fast. I run turbo in normal orientation and on the turbo oil drain I have to run an air/oil seperator as foamy oil is hard to deal with. Setup was backed up by a nice 12 row oil cooler. The temp of oil on the drain was 82 degrees C and it was going in around half that. Also the pressure AT the turbo charger inlet when hot was also 100PSI hard. Oil is the life blood of a turbo its only got to fail for a second at full boost and good bye turbo so mine is fairly bullet proof system. Also should be noted I don't use engine oil pump to supply turbo have an external electric pump. Also my turbo setup isnt in a car :P Cameron

A turbo charger has oil fed under pressure this goes into the thrust bearing and brass bush and gets lubricated. This would work fine sitting vertical. Once oil pressure up thrust face isn’t touching anything it is floating on film of oil..... Problem lays in the drain. Turbos need gravity to drain the oil. The oil comes out at a huge rate and I know for a fact Garret GT40 turbo I’m pushing 72L/min of oil through the turbo. Its hot foamy and the scavenge pump needed to shift oil would be a nightmare sourcing hooking up etc. Problem is most Garret turbos run the thrust bearing behind the compressor wheel. The rear Turbine shaft usually has two piston rings that seal the turbine end that’s it. When not spinning with oil pressure this can weep some oil and when oil is hot ANY oil sitting in housing tipped up runs out through the seals and smokes/burns on turbine wheels causing early failure. So short answer NO can’t run a turbo charger like this. Have a look at the KE15 turbo on here the red one has a nice hidden turbo setup could get ideas from. Cameron

One on gum tree IS NOT AN SL or SE sprinter its jsut a sprinter body with mods and that. Id steer clear. Real SL's had twin carbs, lighter fly wheel, more duration on cam shaft, higher compression head, different gear ratio on 3rd gear, a centre console, extra brackets weld in floor of car, extra badges, steering wheel, and more. This one yeah id be careful. Saying that other week I bought a cheap KE11. I cut out rust new seats new engine new radator 3 core etc etc etc all the works. Drove it to work EVERY day didnt miss a beat was a good car but paint rough etc few bad things I sold it for over 4K. But it was reliable and things that needed doing DONE. Just didnt look the best lol So worth what you will pay and if seller will part with it. And if it is mechanicly reliable and well done for the age worth a few K. But if its rough changed engine numbers etc etc be selective. Cameron

^^^ Above sprinter a few years back was for sale in carsales in Brisbane so good to see a local snapped it up....

I have push rods to suit that head some where....PM me.....

Told you they were big ! Can see how TRD made a 3K scream to crazy numbers now with how they prep their heads...But This one is even better its a TRD 5K head that will be boosted :) Now stop playing Datto's and start KE11 building lol

Yes there are different steering shafts in KE1X cars.....I have a home made on a lathe boss kit that came in a KE11 I bought stock wheel spline turned down fitted to aluminium etc Worked. But yes shafts are different

You will see it when it arrives...Its a work of art the ports they are MASSIVE.....Photos still don't even do it justice.

I think it will like the new owner.......Prob should pull a valve out CAD one up so if you do BUST one you could remake one ;)

HI, No real detail on if it was an SL from factory from VIN. SL the real difference was in the engine few pictures might shed some light on it. What is your location? Cheers Cameron

Hi, Ill be with Tenny0 here got my KE11 rear bar re chromed through him old school nothing flash but does GOOD work. Charged me $200 for my rear KE11 bar. I stripped it for him and at my work put it through a sodium hydroxide bath so made his work a bit easier so say $250 a bar is his price. But worked fast was 2 days turn around for me and i have since used him again :) Cameron

don't let that rust put you off. Id carefully get steel and weld away. A lot of work there but I jsut replaced nearly whole passenger side of KE11. Had snapped off seat mounts flintstone floor mod and more. Some nice long 3mm thick strip down inside refold sheet for sill new seat mounts few days on a mig...tacked all in the slowly laid beads of weld down. Ridgid car now adn passed road worthie in QLD again and now its back on road. So really depends on your resources how much you can do etc etc. But anythings saveable.

If your STOCK KE1X look is STOCK then ditch the resistor. Reasons for balast resistor is at cranking car will drop around 9 volts there is usually a wire from starter system to the coil bypassing the resistor. So as cranking gets 9V. When you start and key is off and starter disengaged then the direct power feed cut and power then goes 12V through resistor then it drops to 9V and coil runs. Resistor coils are designed to work best at the lower voltage. This is so when cranking spark is still HOT. IF they worked BEST at 12V when cranking would be weak spark. KE1X loom is simple and bugger all relays (apart from horn in late models) and thus run a 12V non resistor coil. Reason why I run a CDI is as stated above drops the amps through the points thus they last FOREVER. I found after 6 months the rubbing block on points had worn away so had to reset dwell etc so ditched points for electronic dizzy. But thinking about going back as I have a cam in daily KE11 and electronic dizzy has a shocking advance curve for it. Cameron

Hi, My 3cents... Was said in first post all 3k/4/ units are designed for use with ballast resistor... KE1X cars never had a balast resistor stock so their coils like 12v no resistor out of box. Later coils need to run at the dropped 9V. Also I run a stock 5K electronic dizzy with stock KE1X coil and a mmmm its like a 6AL MSD unit running it in side cabin. 16 sparks at idle per cyclinder and those cheap little spark tests where you wind out the points and arc a gap telling you spark voltage I wind it all the way out and still throw the spark across so thats also a good option. Runs a stock tacho dash in the KE11 and gives better ignition with no coil issues....yet...more energy=more heat I'm sure coils warm but does 1000km a week so far so good 6 months on. Cameron

Well ill be dammed...2speed ina KE30. Never knew this but good to know thanks for the correction. Looks like it is an easy yoke change and were on the road again

HKS did a fully counterbalanced item and I think TRD did from what I know..... Was used in the twin cam 3K. On back of TRD catalougs can some times spot it with the exploded picture of a 3K twin cam. Making one? Cameron