camerondownunder88

Hello, having done this before ill give my 2c. In the pics posted above the 3 mounts are from top: KE1/2/3 aircon for old style piston pump. Middle is mien :) that was from a hi-ace van it is a power steering pump mount Third is again aircon for newer style round pumps. Toyota have more brackets than this for K motors I have seen from the publica ute aircon was different and some had air pumps mounted here for polutiopn rubbish. My mount you can see the 2 bottom tabs see in photo were perfect width for a SC14 blower's tabs. Big bolt through here and it mounted nice and low. Also ona SC14 with this mount it put it EXACTLY in line with the idler pulley and it aligns with a 5K dual row harmonic ballencer no mods bolt on nice and low. And the top tab on the power steering mount I ran a bolt off to top of blower to make a tensioner for the blower. Also on my setup I have the pipes off the 1G motor my SC14 was off of. I used the inlet pipe as the new outlet piupe and the 1G outlet pipe as my inlet. So I flipped them. on the outlet pipe had to drill 2 holes larger then bolt on seal with factory gasket.. Reason was outlet pipe was long and straight so I bolted on a SU here. Inlet pipe was a 90 degree bent. This sat motor side. so it bent straight up and i had a U pipe over motor into stock manifold. EASY. Cheers Cameron

My local exhaust shop does one off exhausts. Does exhausts from drag cars down very tallented guy. I asked about custom extractors to suit my engine build, cam specs and up righting a K motor and they said they can. He designs them to work with the motor and were about the $350 mark in stainless steel tig weld you name it laser cut flanges etc etc. Bit more than other off the shelf brands. BUT I run currently pacemakers in the sprinter and they are crap..lol So worth the money so if you need a nice set that will work fast hit up an exhaust shop if they are switched on they can design adn make pipes easily. Cheers Cameron

^^ I recently scrapped one. Jap motors usually had single row timing chan so that is to go in bin. Stuff to keep from a Jap dished piston motors is: Exhaust valves Heads will flow better (better exhaust ports with no lump) but can only be used on dished piston motors so i still keep Push rods Some have hydro lifters so if they have that keep them tensioner off timing chain all mine were a locking type o when installing/removing didnt spring apart so keep that there handy That was all I kept rest I bin off these. Dished pistons can still be had brand new and all mine had the small conrod so not the strong one so I usually bin the rest. Cameron

Hard to say with out see a pic of port side of head but looks to me like a flat top piston head on a dished piston motor. The dished piston motors I have stripped or still have have had shallower heads on same pistons. All dished piston Jap motors shouldnt have that lump in exhaust port Andy43. But there is a way to tell that from the out side of a K motor ;) As for the head if it is a Jap head to the exhaust valves are made from a harder metal and nitrided factory something our shit 4K's never got ;) And why would you want secondhand pistons??? Cameron

HOLY CRAP $31.00 for a condenser SHIT. I have never paid more than 5 cents for one. If you keen a condenser is just a capacitor that helps prevent arcing across the points when they open making them last longer. Corollas are 0.22uF go to your local electronics shop capacitor worth about 5cents problem fixed. Or get any capacitor witha 0.22uF value and bolt it on. But also points and dizzy caps I find easy as to get for my K motors. I use walkers but wont touch supercrap or autobarn they are crap. The walkers I uses even has KE10 parts on the shelf ready to sell so just look for a better parts shop. Why spend your hard-earned cash at a place that rips you off gives you the wrong parts and sells shit over priced. As about a month ago did points dizzy cap condenser rotor button and carbie kits for the KE15. DIzzy cap was $15, points $8, rotor button $13, 2 carbie kits $60 so 30 each. They were Bosch parts or other brand names and that is what walkers charged me NO discount so aim for those pices. I just walk out of shops that price gouge its crap. Cameron

Hi, Philbey yes I have done the engine mount trick. And does work. Now I pulled measurement from top of my head mount isn't like 10mm thicker. But from strut tower to rocker cover when using a later mount is about 10mm pushed back towards driver so enough to get carbies on. If you use a worn mount the motor will sag. So possibly a dead mount when you tried it philbey? Ok JordyKE with your gearbox pic that is normal...but your gearbox is missing a part :( On the end of the gear box there should be a cup shaped metal item. Press fits on end of gear box and covers the tail shaft helping to keep dust and dirt you there the same on all K boxes so get hammer remove one from the 4 speed you removed problem solved. As when you go over a bum and the diff moves the tail shaft would come forwards so if it came up closer it would hit the gear box this is not good. So get the cap problem solved. Cheers Cameron

Hi, KE1X and KE2X passenger side engine mount is smaller than a KE3X to KE7X. So if you bolt on a KE70 engine mount it will up right motor more (I think 10mm off top of head, and KE70 mounts have a heat sheild for rubber and are newer so usually better condition. This should give you clearence. If not I have seen strut tower section cut out and a box weld in so it steps in then out better than a hammer and clears the carbies. Cheers Cameron

Hi, I think I posted this on the old Toyota forum at Yahoo. To use TRD/TOSCO 3K rods you get stock conrods push the bushing out and polish them and you get 20mm pin to fit. That is how TRD did it. They used prepped stock rods and these pistons. Cost a lot to prep and I would agree with you. No bushing just using the polished base metal I don't imagine you would get great longevity. Cheers Cameron

Trev doesnt play flute........ he is on the tuba. I might be there seeing i live walking distance from the track. And mmm is it to late to possible enter the street class at winternats this year? Cameron

can't help but notice did you happen to "copy" the look of the twin cam TRD 3K rocker cover? As at first that is what it looks like but a tad different..lol Similar but

^^^ That is dam nice seeing inside has given me more questions than answers..lol First off did you deck the block much? I know 4age stuff in a 5K you need to take heaps off the block. Also I see you put Welsh plugs in the lifter bores. I take it you run a cam and where dizzy is made a shaft and bearing assy. to hold a shaft that still spins the oil pump? Do you still use the oil gallery in the block to get oil to the head? Or does all the oil now go through the red lines around the motor? But I do ask your conrods did you weld the sides up so they fill the gap in the crank or do you just let them "float" around a bit? Interesting on the jetting but. I wonder what some guys run in there carby 4age motors. Might be able to use some jetting sizes. But mmmm this must go on my to do list..lol Imagine a black top 20V 4K can use the VVT then :) Cheers Cameron

NICE that 4k + 4age is AWESOME. My guess is he still uses the 4K crank. 4age rods on a K motor crank have a few mm side play think 6mm total so I take it bore move was minor and the play in the rods took it up. But I love that motor we need a dyno run of that see what the difference is. AWESOME Engine of the year anyone..lol Cameron

Hi, Just to add to the controversy. I know a KE10 getting around with a tercel Diff centre in it. now here is the weird part the centre bolted into the KE10 housing and KE10 axles and all fitted it all bolt in. But the flange for the drive shaft is drilled different one hole is offset and wont line up so this uy bolted on 3 bolts and then redrilled 4th hole. He used it to get a 3.XXX ratio diff in his KE10 to make it a good cruiser so not sure if it was the large or small diff but he uses tercel centres in KE1X diffs so could be a clue to what they are??? Cameron

Hi, Why go through the hassel of finding a 6rib 100mm pulley when you can conver the SC14 to a V belt pulley? I have 2 threads here how to do it one with a dual V-belt and a single. then using stock KE aircon/power steering bracket and stock KE aircon/power steering crank pulley problem solved got a blower set up :) Cheers Cameron

Hi, I recently made a set of solex to suit my 5K on the sprinter. If you want a target budget I spent $1000 just on carbes to get them on car that didn't include tune and I built them my self. Pretty much only original part in them in the body..lol NEW everything ventures, floats, jets, springs, linkages etc etc. Now I did rebuild them my self so I cut a lot of labour there I acid dipped them at my work, polished them at work, lapped them flat and square and parraell to each other, ground throttle shafts flat, made teflon space's to go in top of carbie to fill gap (I use 40mm and they have that step in inlet I didn't like for air flow so filled it) new linkages from japan, new idle screws, new nuts and bolts on all locations, removed all casting dags on body inside and out and polished the insides, leak tested all passages to make sure they didn't leak where they were meant to be sealed etc where do I stop I went over board but got a VERY VERY clean example better than factory :) that I was proud of. I did them as a labour of love and took me about 7 months. uIfeel they are a good carbie but many people have issues with them wiggling lose etc. That is I think off top of my head the S type ones that were on celica's. Mine are a set of aftermarket Solex made ones that were never a OEM and don't have that issues in later versions of carbies they fixed all that so with a good rebuild you wont have any issues with them not even finding parts, parts can be had just not cheap..lol Have attached a picture of my result( note there not finished here I still had not fitted my linkages fuel inlet etc, etc)also I only have a $60 camera so low light colour here is bad and washed out. But on left hand barrel near top you can see my finger print in black down side to having them this good is they did get dirty under the bonnet :( Also should note I built my self a jet kit with all different jets sizes for tuning for these bad boys so that cost more to. Cheers Cameron

Hi, I use Shannon's on the KE15 I have. I'm under 25 BUT after an interview and proof I was an enthusiast they gave me insurance MUCH cheaper than other places agreed value. As for mods. I was told for policy to be legit car had to be road worthie... Mods If I let them know they agree on them there ok for instance they know I have a large cam and twin side drafts on a 5K non standard motor. since they know it is legal but QLD road rules state I think I need pollution testing done again and all that but I never did that but mod is still ok with insurance. IF THEY AGREE it is ok. So tell them all your mods and see if they will insure you. Cameron

Hi, Very broad question what is your budget? As JUN still make 2kg flywheels for K motors at $1300 a piece when I last got my hands on one so what is your budget we could be spending a lot on one part? Also how good are you at rebuilding carbies etc? I did mine twin side drafts cost $1000 to rebuild alone with new EVERYTHING got an awesome result but well worth the effort. SO again with side drafts I think sky can be the limit when you start to factor in tuning etc. Cameron

Hi, Just going to share my thoughts on this. I know all Jap diff centres for the KE range of corolla from KE1X to KE70 are the same centre IF IT IS A JAP DIFF. So can pop in a later one like KE30 etc so maybe you get less wear and maybe 10 years of development made the cast a bit better but other wise no real gain. As for axles I know Jap diffs thin. Borg diffs thick. I THINK...have to double check this they are the same spline as I have always though in my head Jap centre Borg axles and we would be set :) But if axles are the same spline KE1X had borg diffs if they were AMI so save shortening them get some axles out of a Borg KE1X diff. Will be same length so wont get larger brakes but I know in my KE15 I def don't need larger rear brakes..LOL Cheers Cameron

Hi, Just though id add a quick comment. MANY old points cars I have serviced I note the advance is CRAP in them. Pop the dizzy cap off and the remove the rotor button. Under it should be a fiber or rubber disk. Remove it with a pick and put a drop of oil in there. That lubricates the shaft the moves to actually do the advancing. SO MANY cars I seen no one knows this small step in the service and the shaft will over time seize to the inner shaft and not actually advance at all. so a few drops of oil drive it one car I had took about 2 days but all of a sudden I had to re tune car as shaft started moving and ecconomy improved STACKS and power delivery was smoother. So before we all go ripping into our dizzys just look at this for all you know your dizzy has seized and isnt advancing at all. Cameron

Hi, They sure are leeping the good stuff for military and I can tell you now it will also perish the rubber and other parts in your car..LOL Cameron P.S. kangaroosa what regulator were you using when the E85 ate through it? I have a holly reg and want my car ready for ethanol so might be shopping time.

Trev currently looking at GT-4 Caldina (new update model around 06-07) or A econo-box on wheels bB love them and can't explain why :) I can get a 2010 model of that from Japan so for fuel not sure. Beerhead I ahve seen much info on running ethanol in boosted cars quite fine so I'm not against it I jsut think it will hit the pockets of many people buying premium and will see a lot of old good cars thrown out. As for corroding aluminium that is rubbish in my eyes. Only really affects rubbers and seals that are not designed for it. Cameron

Good point trev I have read articles that state in areas where corn and other foods are grown for ethanol the food market those farms supplied have dried up of the product and people can't get it so on one hand we reduce carbon emissions and in the other hand we reduce food for our consumption and lose land for growing food etc and we start reducing humans.. Cameron

Well I'm in the process of importing a new car so lets hope it works with e10..lol As for my KE15 usually run 98. But I know toyota carbies plastic float disolves in e10 and so will my nice new solex PHH 40 I jsut built :( So not sure what I will do there. But I do know the fuel reg pump and lines in KE15 can handel e10 so if I can change floats in carbies I wont have any issues changing to use it. But I agree with comment above only reduces 3% carbon. I mean the amount of shit boxes on the road that need a tune is crazy if we all took better care of our cars I belive we could reduce it more..LOL Cameron

Hi, You can STILL buy deep dish 5k pistons I can get them new from my engine builder who is building my 5K atm original size 20 and 40 and 60 thou over sized. PM me if you need his number to order some. But when it blew had you reved it hard? Could possibly been a bit of valve bounce and hit the pistons??? Cheers Cameron

Anyone notice the KE20 wagon cream with black roof rear tail gate locks Mr Bean style....