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camerondownunder88

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Everything posted by camerondownunder88

  1. HI, HECK YES re-graphing a dizzy to suit your car is a must do as soon as you change the cam or tune etc. Ill scann the page from Toyota book I have showwing a basic map of all the different dizzy curvs they ran in K motors. I priced getting one re-graphed once at a cost of $200 here in Brisbane that was re-graph to suit motor I had to supply motor specs adn bench tested. Toyota ran different curves in colder countries and in electronic 5K dizzys an aggressive advance curve so all torque was made at lower revs for van hauling so in your car a re curved dizzy is a must to get the most from your engine. Cameron
  2. Hi, Dam learn something new every day. I never knew what this did. But In a KE1X they don't have this pipe. Obviously engineers though of it after 1969 so do you think I should mod my car for this bypass pipe so I get better internal and more even temperatures in my block for the engine? Cheers Cameron
  3. Hi, Ok in the starters there are more than 2 :) 3 main differences Bosch, ND, and the reduction gear type. Now in the early KE1X 2X starters they bolted to the gear box with smaller bolts. Bell housing has thread in it. Later ones used a through bolt with nut arrangement on 10mm bolts. In my KE15 I used a later KE70 starter as there more kW and then jsut drilled out the bolt holes. As I can still run an early starter if I want as when bolted up there is a lip on the starter that keeps it central like a wheel and bolts jsut hold it there so with threads drilled out I jsut use longer bolts and early one still goes on. Cheers Cameron P.S. In a KE1X fastest way to do starter is put bottle jack under alt mount take weight off engine mount remove it and HEAPS of room to get in and out and can get a drill in there then :) Not sure if this tech works ona KE2X
  4. Hi, stage 1,2 TRD engine road useable stage 3 but pure race were talking one ring on the piston and HUGE lift on cam set of springs would only last a few weeks on the road..LOL But as for this set of twins just use the outer a road car wont see 8000RPM to often (maybe in the philippines it will but with no real road rules...LOL) as the TRD springs will still not be bouncaround 8 but id be more worried about other parts breaking at that RPM..LOL Cameron
  5. ^^^ Top stuff helps me as my valves are in the head not handy to meassure..LOL So edit old post 6.6mm valves :) And yeah pretty much states what I said TRD re-engineered the K motor so much that to use a bulk of their parts you NEED all of them on it will be a no go. Cameron
  6. Hi Ralph, I just finished getting together a WHOLE TRD K motor head. You might have more issues with these valves springs then first through. I will look up my part numbers but there is a chance these springs wont work unless you have a TRD valve set also. TRD valves have a thinner diameter (8mm off top of head) They also have seat in head made bigger and further in head for longer springs to allow larger amounts of cam lift. Following this the spring retainers are a different shape and titanium and the little tabs that go in there to lock the valve in are different and the TRD valves had a different locking grove on them. Also the valve guides are different on TRD valves. So to run these springs with inner might be harder than it looks. What you can do is run the outer spring only. Inner is to stop valve bounce and hings happening at high sustained RPM. If this is going in a road/ weekend racer could look at dropping the inner. My TRD springs I got the Blue ones (colour on spring indicates how hard they are). Blues are a good street to mild race one and can very well be run with out the inner spring over 8000RPM no worries. So look into their seat pressure more and that research them and test them and hey might just be easier to put onto your K head with out the inner spring. Cheers Cameron
  7. Hi, So many replies..lol Yes all 5K have a harmonic ballencer I have seen soem run with out it but not sure if they have lasted. But today I got a 4K-C one Yes I did adjust the timing mark :) Polished it up poped it on went for a spin got engine warm hit 6grand no issues didnt go to 8 not yet ;) So all in all should be good. I do imagine but this Jap 5K was well made unlike many V8 and V6 motors so harmonics should be pretty low. Also thermo no room :( ALso I have a stock KE10 aircon system I want to fit so can't put thermo in front of radator as I need that space so was only suck through an option and I had 42mm from radaitor face to engine so looked in MANY thermo fan books thinnest I saw was 45mm at a cost of $500 US. SO ill keep you posted if my engine explodes but worked and DAM the KE15 stays cool now :) Cheers Cameron
  8. Hi, As Philbey pointed out KE10 a short shaft pump and all the longer shaft pumps will hit the radator so thats the issue. But KE1X with aircon ran a twin row pulley so ill have to look into how that was set up. But I got a KE70 4K item out shed today it is 130mm dia 5K item I use is 140mm dia so should be able to keep current fan belt. Also engine I was told was rebuilt was a home job done poor so yeah not sure on ballance. Biggest worry I now have is as fan is pulling air in to car blades bend fowards so they could hit the radator at high RPM :( So ill have to watch for this. Shall let you all know hos I get along fitting the KE70 4K pulley. Cheers Cameron
  9. Hi, Fan over laps bottom pulley by about half width. If you look down blade back of it is in line with deepest part of belt area where it runs. Cameron
  10. Hi, Today went to fit a plastic fan to my KE15 (fan from KE20) ANd the blades hit the front pulley on the 5K harmonic ballencer so can't fit on. Can I remove this and fit a stock single row pulley and would it be ok? Just don't want my crank to snap so any one who has done this id love info and how did it go etc? Also anyone out there got pictures of KE1X engine bays of engine fans on them? Cheers Cameron
  11. A KE10/11/16/18 window will make the rubber buldge not sit in right and is dangerous. A KE10 item can be cut to fit a KE15 but a lot of work. KE15/17 have a lower roof line think exactly 2 inches and the screen is different in height and not jsut laid back. Cameron
  12. I'm in the process of putting in factory AC into my KE15 they did have them as an option stock. They used the RT40 AC compressor on the engine if you wanna find one that fits. So many universal under dash 60's looking uniots out there for a KE1X that can fit. Cameron
  13. KE15/17 windscreens ARE different part number seal and size. If I put a KE10/11 item in my car the top of the seal bulges up and does not sit right they are higher than a normal KE15 item. Cameron
  14. Stock LSD for the KE20 Jap diff be prepaired for a lot of $$$. End of the day be easier to fit T series or something as the TE27 used a T series diff so can be fitted to the car. As for the small jap diff LSD 2 options. Some KE1X cars did have LSD factory in the parts book. REAR as never seen one my self prob not the best and RARE. TRD LSD not easy to find and last one I found was over $1000 and needed shipping from japan and suited re-build. Would then take a mamoth effort to get a clutch kit etc. So $1000 would be wiser spent on a T series diff made to fit the car. Cameron
  15. Hi, Contrary to popular belief there are STACKS of different K motor oil pumps. I am putting together a wiki on K motor oil pumps as I am currently collecting a heap to build a good one. So I need people out there to take photos of oil pumps and tell me what K motor it is from what car and the cars vin for dating it if possible. If the car has had an engine change details from motor and original car if possible. Also chasing scans of part books for KE corollas in the oil pump section. I have all KE1X part books so just the newer models are needed. And if possible feel free to measure the pump a bit main one I want is the thickness of the gear inside the pump. Cheers Cameron
  16. I have :glare: .....wont be a MEGGA number wepon but will have a few cool parts attached like a good radaitor and that. And mine will be going in a light KE1X car :) Watch this space
  17. Hey goog work on floor pan makes me wanna look in my KE15 now see how bad its floor is. BUt your firewall flexing at the accelerator my KE15 does this :( bad original owner bent fire wall and put a hole in it poorly fixed this is a fix down the road issue for me. But good you got to it early as hydrulic cyclinders on the firewall here might flex and leak and make a mess. Great work Cameron
  18. Hi, Now first of I'm no genius on car turbo setups BUT from my knowledge trying to run twin turbos and get flows matched is hard ie small and large turbos. Problem that can happen with say a large turbo feeding a small turbo in the compressor side is HEAT. Discharge of a large turbo the air can be in the range of 200 degrees C now the small turbo at there max RPM that heat can affect the compressor wheel and they fail. Also causes huge surge problems and that. ke70dave "interesting thing about turbo, is that the goal isnt to get maximum pressure, it's to get maximum volume of air flowing through engine." Just using what Dave here said that's correct Mass flow over pressure is what you need. Now turbos have flow maps and different islands of effect. You can have massive "boost" levels with little to know flow this would be crap. So you run a turbo where there most efficient finding a pair that can do this HARD to impossible. You would have to start looking at making your own compressor wheel and I only know of a few places that have the machining gear/casting gear to achieve this..LOL Cheers Cameron
  19. Blew radator after we met at park :( was a week or two later at christmas :( Cameron
  20. Hi, Well it has been a while since I last updated but hey better than nothing..LOL Well over the last 6 months I have had a pretty good run of the KE15. Till about December. First off I made a mistake and well kinda backed into a pole WITH my drivers door...open....Yes a KE1X front drivers door at about 5km/h will bend 180 degrees and touch the front drivers side-wheel :( not happy. Busted my good restored teflon pined hinges, dinted the door, busted door weld and more :( Got so angry first though was hammer..LOL and in a few minutes had the door closing again and looking better. panel beated some of it out but looking for a new door as this one is now good for parts as it twisted :( So fault one. Second thing Drove car all the way to the north side for christmas dinner with family. on the way up there a rock busted my radiator. But due to sunny QLD not being so sunny and it pouring rain I did over 250km with a busted radiator and car kept cool and held most of the water had to top up half way in trip. So mega annoyed at that radiator got flushed and re-condishined only 6 months ago :( So got angry and KE15 now sits in my car port. Also did economy of car on that long trip not the best and ummm used about 3L of oil :( this engine needs a rebuild. So where to start. radiator. I figured I can drive sprinter a lot more oil seems to use a lot then not use a lot so thinking it is getting hot and coming out the engine dump pipe from rocker cover can smell oil when witting still in drive through etc. So I want to do this properly. I am sick of kinda doing stuff then finding I have to fix it in a few months or it just never being right so I did a list of what I want in the KE15 radiator. List: original looking as possible -3 row core -moved inlet for up right K motor down track -outlet moved and made from solid tube like original KE1X items were. -more clearance between engine and radiator for internal fan (3 row also becomes 10mm thicker so BIG issue this one only had 30mm from radiator with engine with KE2X rad) -diameter of inlet and outlet increased as KE1X radiators stock ones are tiny. So first step find a radiator......BING...got one. Started looking at my place and found I have 3 KE1X radiators all in different state of repair. So got the one with best tanks but worst core that was the project radiator. Wish I took a pic of it but didn't. Next was to get a quote on moving inlet and outlet and making them bigger, 3 row core etc etc....DONE. Found a shop with an old guy running it and he knew about the issues KE1X suffer from lack of room etc. And he could do me a 3 row core :) DONE. Next trick more room in engine bay. First off below is a picture of the side of a stock radiator where the side metal support that ties the top and bottom tank together is weld on. The pic is of the bottom tank where this wraps around and is weld on. Can see how it is folded over the front of the radiator. Now this side part is where the bolts hold the radiator into the car. So I though when un-weld to install new core why not flatten out the front side of the support and slide the whole radiator in them forwards 10mm away from motor and then weld them on. So I did. Pic below of this: (above notice bottom mount on left is bent up. KE1X had this stock notice aftermarket KE1X rad on right has straight outlet. Straight causes alternator clearance issues) EXCELENT more room between motor now and still strong as before. But I still didn't have more room between radiator and motor as the room I gained here was lost with the 3rd row in the core :( So needed more room WITH OUT cutting the KE15. So pulled grill and bumper and front end off looking for room...AH found it. In a KE1X the radiator support is bent in towards the ending with anchor nuts weld on the front side and bolts go through hold radiator to car. So what if I put radiator in-car from the front and use studs to hold radiator out backwards....IT FITS :) Doing this I got the radiator from being recessed about 20 to 30mm behind the front panel of the car to FLUSH. (only went flush so have some clearance from front panel and I can fit KE1X aircon over the front still. Pic below showing me holding radiator not yet bolted in mounted in front of the panel. So below is a photo of it mounted from the front SEE THE ROOM :) can now fit a shrouded thermo fan on the car :) Now with front mounting you can only go so far back as to far will cause the top tank to hit the bar that goes across the top of the car with bonnet release on it etc. Now here is also a pic of the radiator with moved inlet on the top tank. I did this to have longer top hose. WIth 5K in a KE15 top hose was SO short when engine moved it would strain it heaps and even move it on the pipes and cause leaks and not to mention possible rupture down the track. So wanted more rubber for movement. Also needed more room to play with when I upright a K motor in this car and as from above I want to do this right first time. So here is the picture of moved inlet: New radiator is the bottom one old is the top. Notice the amount you can move them. I took it right to the edge and made sure it didn't leak. I even had a baffle plate put in here so as water rushes out pipe it hits this and it throws it sideways into radiator through holes and guides it this should help water move through radiator more. You will also note the top radiator has no lip on the pipe to hold the pipe on. I put a small spot weld around it to help but not as good as a full lip. And it seems all my KE1X radiators don't have a lip on the pipes :( So to stop the new pipes falling off I got a lip weld put on the new inlet :) very happy. Now when I mounted the radiator from the front I only had long bolts. I am buying this weekend studs to suit and making brackets and if I can find a place that sells aluminium sheet on the weekend ill mount the thermo fan :) After that I have to find some silicon hoses for radiator and ill be happy and ill install a nice temp gauge. So stay tuned and ill keep this updated and let you know how the temps go after this mod :) Cheers Cameron
  21. Hi, OUCH sucks when that happens. I being a tight ass at times Id go her $1500 PLUS pay for the rear bumper to be straightened and re chromed (if it can be repaired). If she agrees get it in wirting signed and hey enjoy. As T18 bumper can be used on next ride looking spiffy as. If she says no take cash and run. another one will turn upa nd if you keep the car you have a whole car of spares you can part out etc and earn more cash so win situation kinda. Cameron
  22. VL ones are bosch to so a die hard KE15 fan would spot the mod a mile awaya..LOL I poped the top off mine a while back to clean the contact points witha file. From memoryy I saw large coils no diodes. BUT I didnt rip into it much. So possibly the current handling of the coils that changes??? not sure will watch thread for answers :) Cameron P.S. Just went through my service book the external regulator can be adjusted by bending the "adjustment" arm to increase or decreas output voltage. Not sure how much adjustment this would give but one possible option.
  23. DAM I like. In a sales book I have for the stock KE10 it says it does the 1/4 mile in a blistering 19.4 seconds. Stock K motor. So in his KE20 the first engine by the reading of the article is a stock 4K with webbers and exhaust mods ran 15 seconds. SO thats not that bad at all. But does go to show what an N/A motor ina KE1X can do :) can't wait till I finish mine :) Cameron
  24. I got a coal webber like BBQ that's never been use has your name on it trev or others if they need it. But anyone got pictures of the bridge that crosses the river at jindalee on the centenary highway in Brisbane. Apparently it is under and I wanna see a picture of it. Cameron
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