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camerondownunder88

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Posts posted by camerondownunder88

  1. Hi

    Just spotted this thread.

     

    Ardrox 2526 I use at work to strip aircraft parts except we use it in a large tank heated to 90 degrees C.....Paint GONE in an instant.

    Long gloves and a breathing filter is a MUST with this one but it WORKS.

     

    So possibly a tip is heat up pannel pour on may work faster??? Just a thought.

     

    Also be ware this stuff disolves most plastics and rubber. So be very careful about where you get it around a car. A lot of sealers etc will just fall apart with this stuff super nasty to them. But other wise its the best :)

  2. Agreed. Car is looking great Cameron. I love old cars, but you can't beat a modern car for turn key reliability when you have somewhere to go.

     

    Have you still got the KE15? Would be a hell of a shock slipping back into that after a while in the ZZE

     

    Parrot Didnt see this reply...Yes I still have the KE15. Its a bit sad atm but still unsure what will happen to that car..wreck...restor...sell etc....

     

    Car is good for turn key go. But like all things they wear out so I'm jsut trying to keep this car neat tidy well looked after so it lasts a few years.

  3. UPDATES - Front Strut Brace and more

    So Purchased my self a factory TRD strut brace for the tivo. Simple easy to install. Front of these cars are pretty good so wasnt a HUGE WOW change in handeling characteristc but definate change after driving around all weekend.

     

    You will also note from photos I added a celica style 2zz engine cover. Much nicer I think.

     

    Before:

    post-1811-0-87438500-1445752467_thumb.jpg

     

    After

    post-1811-0-22218700-1445752509_thumb.jpg

     

    After this mod I though I should also do some general maintenance on the car. These are known for spitting out lift bolts and having issues so I though since I had not done it since buying car Id change the lift bolts. Piss easy 15min job IF they arent broken. Mine were like new so this car has probably seen VERY little use on lift....well till I owned it hahah

     

    Engine is regularly serviced by me 5000km. Before that must have been done regularly also as engine is CLEAN inside.

    post-1811-0-49492200-1445752660_thumb.jpg

     

    post-1811-0-08356000-1445752682_thumb.jpg

     

    Below is removed lift bolt:

    post-1811-0-51106900-1445752722_thumb.jpg

     

    Well thats all folks. Enjoy.

     

    P.S. Greenmac80 I see you saw what I had writen about rear bar. If you want a quick one jsut get soem box steel and make your own but BEST change erver from any chassis bars so far well worth it.

  4. UPDATES:

    When this car was purchased the original owner had installed a new battery. Problem was it was the size UP on what car should have. Physical size not much bigger but jammed in and I threw it on scales to find it was a WHOPPING 18KG of LEAD YUK!!!....

     

    So quickest way to get better lap times is to drop weight. Battery is a good place to start.

     

    So I started looking around at race car light weight lead acid batteries....Still expensive and old technology.

     

    So I started looking at LiPo batteries :) Well got hooked. At first was put off as some require external circuits and special ways ot charge and to much dicking around.

     

    Then I came accross a brand of battery that puts all that IN the battery and a circuit to monitor battery levels and cut it off if to low and control charge rate etc.

     

    So I started looking into a size to fit car. I found when Looking at LiPo batteries the CCA rating can be HUGE...Yet the Amp Hr is quite low....

     

    Also if car is let sit for a few days can go dead flat :(

     

    So I did some tinkering and maths and looked at how often I drove, Electrical usage in car and more. And decided to get a 1000CCA 27A/hr LiPo battery.

     

    MAN O MAN this thing is LIGHT.....

     

    900grams...Yes under 1KG....

     

    Size ah yeah SMALL.....about a 1/4 of the size of a lead acid battery.

     

    So when going to install I also found original owner REMOVED the battery tray for this car and battery was floating sitting on part of car and pipe work :(

     

    So I went about sourced a battery tray and the trays Plastic cover.

     

    This was sourced and a RICE spec aluminium battery clamp was also sourced.

     

    While doing this I also got a hold of two new earht leads of larger gauge and better quallity and ran them to the earth points on the car.

     

    After all this car seemed to crank a lot better :)

     

    So more than happy with this battery best mod so far id say purely cause of massive weight drop and more efficient this thing charges SUPER fast compaired to a lead acid so Alternator doesnt have to work as much after cranking to get power levels back up.

     

    When fitting battery in photos you can see how CONVALUDED the air inlet is to a 2zz powered corolla. The air inlet is up behind head light it then wraps down around under in into front bar comes up under fuse box into air filter housing then into another pipe down to manifold......Thants got to be changed soon....Who designed that???

     

    So few pictures below:

     

    Extra Earth Down To Gearbox:

    post-1811-0-13446800-1444999538_thumb.jpg

     

    New Battery and Clamp in:

    post-1811-0-28758300-1444999619_thumb.jpg

     

    New battery another Angle:

    post-1811-0-59775700-1444999677_thumb.jpg

     

    So thats All I did this arvo possibly do more tomorrow in study break and have more updates then.

     

     

    Happy Motoring.

  5. Updates:

    Short one today:

     

    So this arrived from Japan:

     

    post-1811-0-96306000-1443511979_thumb.jpg

     

    It is a Laile Front Performance Bar/brace.

     

    Was easy as to install. Jacked car took out cross member bolt and bolt to front radator pannel and tighten.

     

    Took for a quick drive noticeable change in cornering turn in seems more precise.

     

    Again dirty hands so I never snapped a photo of items on car. Ill do that on weekend after I give it a clean...

     

    Till next update.

  6. UPDATES: REAR SUSPENSION

    So thsi car is known for its horrible rear end. Even though being FWD the rear wheels purely hold the rear number plate off the ground the rear end is...floppy...

     

    So as per normal always keeping my eyes open for parts and BAM! Find at auction a factory rear TRD strut bad for this car.....BUY BUY BUY....Came with no instructions but a few taps away on google found the TRD installation manual with templates to cut trims and I was away.

     

    Gave me a good excuse to clean my car out a bit. Below is a photo of a packet of gum I found wedged right down inside rear guard....Who knows how long thats been there :S

     

    post-1811-0-17161600-1442392974_thumb.jpg

     

    So Off I went and First things first the boot. The bar goes here:

     

    post-1811-0-77481100-1442393058_thumb.jpg

     

    Secondly now to remove floor and tools and trays from boot floor and cover tray from behind seats:

     

    post-1811-0-90727500-1442393108_thumb.jpg

     

    After that you then have to go around to base of the front side of passenger seats and flip them up to gain access to lower bolts of side lumbar supports:

    Seats up:

    post-1811-0-81007700-1442393174_thumb.jpg

    Bolt on bottom of side supports This bolt gets seat belt out the way which needs to come off and then seat support comes out after it:

     

    post-1811-0-15146900-1442393240_thumb.jpg

     

    Seat Cushion off:

     

    post-1811-0-33997000-1442393412_thumb.jpg

     

    Once off side wall of boot unclips and swings away:

     

    post-1811-0-49511800-1442393457_thumb.jpg

     

    Find and extract gum here....

     

    Then the two bolts that hold seat belt reels in place is where TRD backets go:

     

    post-1811-0-09027500-1442393519_thumb.jpg

     

    So started getting dark phone camera was now suffering so bolt in bar. Now I did this by putting bar in got brackets square and good then nipped...Then removed centre of bar slipped trims on over holes I cut in them and bam put bar in pannels back on do all in reverse again:

     

    post-1811-0-09055800-1442393591_thumb.jpg

     

    Bar and trim in place. I let kniofe slip here need heat gun to melt out score mark:

    post-1811-0-01295700-1442393672_thumb.jpg

     

    And got dark but FINISHED:

    post-1811-0-24833400-1442393708_thumb.jpg

     

    And Bar before install:

    post-1811-0-43015900-1442393727_thumb.jpg

     

    So took for a drive and SUCK ME SIDEWAYS the improvement was HUGE....At first had to get used to cornering all again but man o man 100% improvment in all aspects of cornering.... MUST HAVE 10/10 should get for your zze...

     

    Happy motoring peeps

  7. UPDATES WHEEEELLLLSSSS:

    So In the back ground of my spare engine in last thread you can see a tire stand I got. I saw this on sale the other day and though hey I need one of them well two really to hold all my wheels and that and make work shop cleaner so I bought two got them home and threw them together :)

     

    Pic:

    post-1811-0-15754400-1441414363_thumb.jpg

     

    So before I put my stock rims on the stand they were heavily gutter rashed on one and a bit shitty. So I decided to get the files out and give them a cleanup. I got all the lips nice and scratch free and polished. I then removed all the tire weights and goo and then degreased them and then got a paint pen touch up device and re-painted the lip of the rims. Came up quite good. I then got some nice thick plastic bags and wrapped each rim stacked on one stand and pushed into corner so if I need stock rims they are ready to use in a hurry clean dust free and ready to roll. I also acid cleaned and chassed the stock wheel nuts and bagged them as new rims I had to go to a different nut.

    So few pictures below:

     

    Sorry for shitty phone pics.

    Before

    post-1811-0-61941800-1441414532_thumb.jpg

     

    Mid File:

    post-1811-0-06596500-1441414568_thumb.jpg

     

    And good old me didn't take a photo of the rims finished cleaned and painted so we will all have to use our brains..lol

     

    So now your thinking if the stock wheels are off car what did he put on....

     

    Well other day I was told of a set of rims + tires the correct size/offset and stud pattern for this car a young guy didn't want as he bought another set of rims for his car. So I went for a look they were a set of Rota mini lite wheels with chrome lip metallic grey centre. They were wrapped in Bridgestone RE002 performance tires and one needed to be replaced rest were still ok. SO made a nice low ball offer thinking ah Ill be sent home...BAM SOLD...the kid needed money...SO I got a set of wheels and tires for less than the cost of TWO new RE002 tires them self so got them home replaced the one bald tire and cleaned them up got some rings for the hub and slipped them on:

     

    post-1811-0-49752600-1441415624_thumb.jpg

     

    Above photo was taken day before I had to use car for mates wedding so was good timing got new rims car all clean and did a wedding. Car looked flash.

     

    Now to fit these wheels to a sportivo. The Toyota factory wheel studs are SHORT... Leaves about 3 threads that actually engage on the nuts. So I bought a set of wheel studs that were longer and fitted them. Was a easy job on the rear with hydraulic press straight in no issues NICE. Fronts however MAN O MAN due to length was hard to slip in then to press them in as didn't want to remove the hubs. But got them on.

     

    And I then went an got a multi colour chrome nut so they are gold, blue, purple etc look cool. BUT I didn't get aluminium nuts. These flog out and are DANGEROUS so they are a nice steel nut so safe for track use :) Phone flash kinda doesnt show colour well but purple, blue, green, gold and more...

     

    post-1811-0-94531000-1442392699_thumb.jpg

     

    Well till later today out to do more tinkering on car.

  8. UPDATES:

    So This weekend I did a few small things on car between doing uni work.

     

    1. Water Pump

    The pump on the car was slowly starting to drip red coolant :down:

    So I had a new OEM pump to swap on. So didn't really take pictures just did it and added brand new OEM Toyota Red coolant also so system is all good to go.

     

    So if you look at the part numbers for water pumps for the ZZE123 or 2zzge motor there was a change in the pump and a Toyota revised the design. The original pump ran a metal pressed impeller. The later ones run a plastic impeller that is moulded with more vanes and better shape and also sits closer to the block so there is less "slip" over the top of the vanes of water as it is pumping. Thus making pump more efficient.

    So With pump removed and another old dead pump I have here is a shot for those at home to see difference:

    post-1811-0-33385800-1440926820_thumb.jpg

     

    This pump being more efficient will need to be spun slower and thus sapping less power from the crank SO......I shall invest in an under drive pulley soon to really get more benifit from the pump.

     

    2. Spare Engine

    So since I track this car I have decided it wont be a brutally fast track car and daily.....due to weight etc.... BUT what I do want is reliability so I can go to the track enjoy a few races come home with parts still in my engine.

    So I had been looking around for a spare engine to buy to totally rebuild to make a race motor so once built I can drive in swap motor drive out with race motor with minimal down time.

    So While keeping eyes open for a spare I came across this motor. WAS DIRT CHEAP...why....Engine had thrown a rod. Now I risked it as block may have been good but 2zz are known for when a rod goes it flies around and chops the block in half.....Well this one has some large internal chunks removed and can't be sleeved so thus block is dead.....BUT

    I have got MANY MANY MANY MANY good parts to start building up race motor. Just need to track down a good block.

    So picture below of spare engine I mounted on engine stand:

    post-1811-0-94822600-1440927184_thumb.jpg

    Now I havent snapped internal photos but I will slowly up load them in a tear down thread for this car so people can see what they might get/find if they buy a blown 2zz.

     

    Well that was all for the weekend till next time.....

  9. Greenmac Yeah the new corolla doesnt have the "old SKool cool" factor. I sold my KE11 to get this while thsi thing beats the pants off the KE11 in speed and handeling EVERY DAY driving the KE11 to work sicnce I drive so far id get looks questions and more it was a fun cruiser.

     

    But not having a good place to work on cars pushed me to get this as for now it was less maintenance than the KE11. But I do miss the KE11 Id still drive an old KE daily if I could.

     

    But oil issues these things are known for. When on the track I add an extra 350 ish mL of oil to the sump as I still run stock sump and with slicks on don't want to lose oil or cause pump to suck air. SO I over fill it a bit.

     

    But You should keep your rolla and get a snail on it :)

  10. UPDATES:

    Interior:

    So I found an OEM TRD pedal set for the Sportivo :)

     

    Items are a harder rubber with flash Metal cover. Now from two photos below you can see the real difference is shape and area of the pedals. The Accelerator on stock is smaller and doesn't have the "tab" on one side. The brake and clutch pedal pads on the stock set are also a little smaller in area.

    So the added tab and area brings the pedals "closer" together allowing some heel toe operation to go down.

     

    Now if you get a set from a dealer/online whatever. They are listed for the ZZE123 from the first model till about 2004. The update model the parts book will tell you it wont fint....They do....mine is an update model and they fit fine no obstructions or modifications needed nothing so if you have an update sportivo don't hesitate they will fit.

     

    Stock rubber pads:

    post-1811-0-10944300-1440316659_thumb.jpg

     

    TRD Sports Set:

    post-1811-0-62084900-1440316676_thumb.jpg

     

    Handling Modifications:

    So I was a bit sceptical about this "brace" that ultra brace make for the sportivo. It is a mid brace that bolts to either side of the car through the interior. Steel construction powder coated white finish.

     

    This is interior rear with no brace:

     

    Before:

    post-1811-0-65793800-1440316835_thumb.jpg

     

    The brace bolts between the two lower seat belt mounts. The bolts have ample thread engagement so you can still use factory bolts and don't need to purchase longer bolts. When I reinstalled the bolts I took the liberty of adding anti-seize to the bolts and torque them back up. Most bolts on this car if they come off get this treatment so future tinkering becomes easier.

     

    Also the installer should note with brace if you don't put the seat belt spacer in the right spot will prevent rotation of belt tie down point. So assembly has to be done right.

     

    After install photo:

    post-1811-0-32164600-1440316877_thumb.jpg

     

    The one down side I can find with this brace is it prevents the front seats from going all the way back on the rails. Now I am average height so I dpont have my seat all the way back BUT if you are tall and do then this brace wont suit you.

     

    Now did it make a difference?

    The chassis of the ZZE1XX corolla general consensus is they have a slopy back end. I found this brace improved my turn in on cornering and affect was noticeable so difference YES so worth it.

     

    And now for a tesse at the start of the thread I said I wanted to track this car and have fun and enjoy the LIFT feature of the 2zzge motor. Well I have done some track times at QR raceway and below is a quick snap shot of me on last corner:

    post-1811-0-39499100-1440317404_thumb.jpg

     

    Now this silver R33 skyline had a stack of mods and was getting frustraited as he couldnt get near my time 1min10+.....

    So next lap he pushed to hard and little light corolla pulls away:

    post-1811-0-53535500-1440317481_thumb.jpg

     

    This was done 100% stock and lap time was 1min 7 seconds. I was pretty happy with this time for a stock corolla and its SOOOOO much fun I can recomend everyone do this doesnt matter what you got you learn SOOO much about how your car goes at speed etc.

     

    But a side note. There was an evo 7 there half stripped interior, larger intercooler, few other mods like pod filter and he ran a 1min 6 sec flat. So I was pretty happy with my effort. So next track session with mods and practise practise practise This thing should scare a few evo's :) And hey a few high powered skylines yes up the straight they get me BUT corners I got them so if I get my corners right I hold them at bay pretty well :)

     

    But enough for tonight...

  11. ^^^ Just read your thread Greenmac80 I like what you have done with yours but I see youe also busting conrods these zz motors will do that hahaha

     

    But MR2 short throw...You jsut unclip plastic housing and slot in MR2 one? Never though about this option before I hunted downa TRD item.

     

    Cameron

  12. Updates:

    Brake Lines:

    The stock items in the car had been in service since the car was new and were starting to show signs of deterioration so I decided instead of replacing the lines with OEM I went for some braided lines. Got this set out of japan. Very happy with quality all bolted on no fuss easy to install.

    post-1811-0-70903500-1439090948_thumb.jpg

     

    TRD shifter:

    So I stumbled across a TRD short shifter for the car. Now if you have driven the zze corolla with some wear these cars have a horrible feel to the shifting mechanism AND at high RPM shifts when in lift mode it is easy to miss a shift and thus destroy your engine. So along with the installation of the solid shifter cable bushings the whole shift feel has gone from a sloppy shift to a smooth precise movement with a good 60ish% reduction in shifter travel. I also added the factory TRD resin gear knob this makes for a nice feel and is light weight hahah.

    The below photo shows how much crap had accumulated in the console over time. Hair clips crumbs and more was filthy. This got a real good clean out before installing the new shifter.

    post-1811-0-26410500-1439091309_thumb.jpg

     

    Below is TRD item going in. I cleaned it re lubed it and had it all like new upon reinstalling it.

    post-1811-0-00108400-1439091349_thumb.jpg

     

    So I reinstalled all trims and gave car a clean:

    post-1811-0-58671700-1439091518_thumb.jpg

     

    Those with a keen eye will notice I have now also changed my steering wheel. I will detail this in a later post.

  13. Updates:

    So When I purchased this car it had a pretty shabby body and was missing the drivers side skirt.

     

    Made the car look BAD....So I finally tracked down some sportivo side skirts. Now for those at home the normal model, Levin, Sportivo all have DIFFERENT side skirts. Sportivo gets the fake vent thing so to match the other side needed a genuine sportivo one.

     

    So Purchased rom a white car. I sent item to a local pannel shop with car for the day item got paint matched. I then picked upa dn fitted my self. As I had gone to Toytoa and ordered all the parts to fit the side skirt. So all clips etc are there :)

     

    Pictures:

    Side before fitting paint matched item:

    post-1811-0-90029600-1435056188_thumb.jpg

     

    Skirt painted closer:

    post-1811-0-78469500-1435056202_thumb.jpg

     

    For reference this is a clip that holds top of rear of skirt on. So if they fall out you can fab up or buy etc:

    post-1811-0-66355100-1435056212_thumb.jpg

     

    Fitted and looking good:

    post-1811-0-97505000-1435056221_thumb.jpg

     

    Also a while back I had purchased and fitted a cooling pannel for the car. This will help seal around radator and force air through it cooling the engine better.

     

    I found to fit this as I have an update model with non-removable centre grill there is a clip in moulded plastic grill that is attached to front bar. This has some moulded ridges for strength moulded in it. To make this fit I had to cut them down a bit. Simple job took all of 10minutes and this item was it.

     

    Pictures:

    Before install:

    post-1811-0-73410700-1435056415_thumb.jpg

     

    Easy to read installation instructions:

    post-1811-0-14444000-1435056424_thumb.jpg

     

    Front of car before install:

    post-1811-0-48816200-1435056431_thumb.jpg

     

    Clip in plastic pannel that needed parts trimmed. Can see in large picture where I cut this pannel:

    post-1811-0-48669800-1435056438_thumb.jpg

     

    Fitted and in:

    post-1811-0-02307300-1435056448_thumb.jpg

     

    With this pannel on temp gauge slight decrease in temp at high way cruising to work. Gauge was about 1 line lower (sportivo gauges have a stack of graduations) I didnt put my data logger on the OBDII port so can't give exact figures but slight difference made so all round good :).

     

    I have also noticed on euro and some JDM varients of this car Toyota made a moulded plastic pannel to seal this gap. So factory in some areas was an option. But to us we get gap :(

     

    Till next update :)

  14. Hi,

    Easiest up grade is grab a Jap KE30 centre bolt in.

     

    Has same stud pattern on housing but is the larger 6" centre.

     

    The standard ring gear on a KE1X is 5 bolts later 6" diff is 6bolt and more ratios can be found easier. Use stock axles.

     

    Now if you want to have more fun top of head the AL25 so Tercel Toyota uses the Y series 158mm diff. This in the old scale is about 6.3"...This BOLTs into the KE10 housing also same stud pattern and axles slip straight in same spline.

     

    These had different ratios AGAIN. Usually were a tad higher but I know a KE10 with this centre in it and a 7K due to extra torque does it easy and makes a GREAT cruiser.

     

    Secret to fitting that diff is the flange on it three bolts will lign up one wont either weld and redrill OR...Undo nut change seal and flang to KE1X item and bolt all up EASY.

     

    IF you go to the 6" KE30 diff option then a factory TRD LSD will fit. RARE...

     

    Saying that my parts book for my KE15 sprinter lists that an LSD was factory option in KE1X diffs. Yet to ever see one my self but they do list it does exist do have part numbers for it so also that option but is the small diff centre they break :(

     

    Cameron

  15. UPDATES:

    Well car needed some loving so this morning I decided to do a few odd jobs to car to help neaten it up.

     

    With all the rain we have had in sunny QLD recently I decided to put new wiper blades on as ones I had were deat. Went with the moulded flex blade ones over a stock inster on metal blade.

    post-1811-0-31215600-1431144607_thumb.jpg

     

    FANTASTIC!!!

     

    The new blade compaired to a metal frame spring type wipes the window far better removing water and dirt so happy wiht this addition.

     

    From some past front end damage the window washer jet hose was cut and re taped back together and then the clips and mounts for it were missing etc. I also spotted drivers side guard indicator light was out so I took time putting in new bulb all new washer hose I stripped from a wreck and plastic brackets that guide hose around bonnet etc when closing.

     

    Pic of guard off:

    post-1811-0-53161100-1431144759_thumb.jpg

     

    Pic of plastic guide thing I replaced etc:

    post-1811-0-84891400-1431144766_thumb.jpg

     

    When doing this I also replaced the driver side inner guard as it was missing and I was getting dirt crud up in the light engine bay and other areas.

     

    The ZZE123 was also missing the plastic engine stone tray that goes from under the car engine around the sides of each front wheel well.

     

    This under tray is a two part item Left and right hand side. Toyota don't make this part anymore and I was able to source a passenger side new no drivers side SOLD OUT...so I replaced the passenger side half of under tray and did guard liner in drivers side guard. Now thinking ahead as I have bought an aluminium under tray for car for added aero and to deflect more stuff than plastic and aid in engine bay cooling I did buy TWO plastic engine passenger side trays from toyota. WHY you ask. Well since item not made I have to cut up plastic tray using side of it attach to aluminium pannel and then install. SO I can return car stock I got one good one on shelf one to cut up and install :)

     

    Guard liner and passenger side half of under tray

    post-1811-0-77941900-1431144860_thumb.jpg

     

    What I have before I installed half of an under tray :( NO PROTECTION can see dent in sump.

    post-1811-0-25497100-1431145140_thumb.jpg

     

    The other week I also took the liberty of ordering some solid bushes for the gearbox linkage for the car. The standard items are a rubber bush with some brass in them and they wear BADLY and are soft spongy and bad. I find when in lift going from second to thirg gear at 8000+RPM the twist of the engine and the slop in shifter linkages prevents me from going to third. Due to speed I havent tried shifting from third to fourth in lift mode. But problem also occurs at 1st to 2nd also. Due to my gearbox having no crunches or that to save my gears from a missed shift my solid bush kit turned up and I fitted that.

     

    Picture of old worn bushings:

    post-1811-0-83339300-1431145572_thumb.jpg

    Can see above the wear in the brass bush. It is out of round and was a few MM larger than pin on gearbox lever :(

     

    After fitting I went for a drive around the block. WOW much much much better. Gear shifts precise and with minimal play in linkages now can feel gears "click" in and even in lift can get in adn out of gear :)

     

    So next on the list will be a TRD short shifter kit and some solid bushes for the gear stick mount.

     

    Due to the high RPM of these engines and my driving I have also purchased some solid engine mounts for the car. This will stop engine twisting around so much and again improve shift and since a giant WEIGHT in the car wont be moving around during cornering will also improve handeling. So below is a picture of box of inserts but these will go in at a later date as this will be a HUGE job to do.

    post-1811-0-43053300-1431145789_thumb.jpg

     

    Well thats all for now folk!

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