kickn5k
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Posts posted by kickn5k
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Wow, now thats a grave dig!!
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So getting back to fixing the issues.
Steering cable: when i bought the boat the steering was locked solid. So I removed the cable from the wheel at the front and then from the motor, steering wheel turned nice and the outboard was swinging so the cable must be seized. The boat hadn't been used for about 3 years and the grease at the outboard end had solidified locking the shaft end of the cable. So I cut a coke bottle off, taped it to the sheath of the cable, filled it with the strongest de-greaser i had and left it overnight. In the morning a few taps with a rubber mallet one way and slide hammer the other had it moving. Left it to dry then used the same method to oil it, I also appled some fresh marine grease on the shaft end. Now works perfectly and saved me $150 for a new custom length cable.
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2 hours ago, ke70dave said:
For years i bought penrite oil. for no other reason than Dad always bought Penrite oil. And he bought Penrite cause his dad bought penrite oil.
I only use because big terry uses it...
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Because I'm a man toy addict I bought this little beige peach.
Problems:
Seized steering cable(fixed, I'll get to that).
Bilge pump and Cd/radio didn't work(fixed I'll get to that too).
Motor doesn't pump water(half way through fixing that).
Need minor repairs to the seats.
Not really a fishing boat(what i wanted) I'll set it up a bit more and I should have something I can freshwater fish with and have something me and the guys can have a wakeboard behind.
Pros:
It was a f@$&ing steal and the hull and trailer are perfect.
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It could be asking for more fuel, now it's run in. My FJ20 was asking for 10-15% more fuel after about 500km.
Condensers and points are cheap, it could be worth replacing them for a start. What dizzy is it? 5ks usually came with leccy dizzys was the dizzy from a 4k too?
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On 27/03/2018 at 10:49 PM, love ke70 said:
I love it!!!
I am going to miss the building updates when you start the rally car again, I think this journey has been much more rewarding.
Me too..
I will enjoy the car build too though.
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4 hours ago, LittleRedSpirit said:
Thanks for that Stuart, Ill find some asap.
Shouldn't be too hard to find. Maybe most auto shops may stock it, a bearing shop will definitely stock it. Below may help.
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Oh and also can be known as "gun blue paste".
I've hand scraped many a mill/lathe slides and gib plates in the last 22 years, my old boss liked to restore old machinery.
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3 hours ago, LittleRedSpirit said:
Whats a good medium for transferring the port shape across to the manifold face? I have seen people use a thick blue fluid but I don't know what the product is.
It most likely be "bearing blue", I doubt that you'll get it at bunnings will most likely need to go to a proper tool shop.
It is mainly used for hand scraped bearings.
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Reports, reports, reports!!!
F&#$ing night and day! Bumpsteer is next to non-existent, it still tracks a bit with the semi's on but still much better than the ke20 junk.
4kg is so close to right, were chosen after a corner weight check, by my F1 handling engineer mate.
Needs more neg camber than -0deg 28min and a touch more caster but I may have latched on to a set of ke20 camber/caster plates and will try some stuff and report back.
Have my super swish copper mani gasket at the laser cutters to digitize and cut my turbo mani plate. I do have an mls gasket coming for approval for a 5k if it works I'll do a group buy for that(mine is coming with clearance for 7/16 head studs.) I really wanna smash that K record that bad it stops everyone else even trying!!
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On 04/02/2018 at 2:54 PM, altezzaclub said:
Yep, all works well, although sometime I'll move the fan relay power onto permanent 12V if I can, that will keep it running until its cooled down when the motor is turned off.
I took it to Melbourne about Dec 23rd, and seeing it was already hot coming back from Walcha the week before The Girl & I bought $30 of Repco's window tint and did a terrible job of fitting that. Not to worry, it was noticeably cooler going to Melbourne, the difference with the sun at 45deg coming in the screen and not getting in the window was surprising.
That was 800+Km, then it was off to Adelaide for the New Year, another 800Km odd, and a week later it was back to Orange, about 1200Km.
Just LOVING it! New front shocks due this week, Monroes off Ebay, just to see how it feels.
That would have been a good test for the new rad. Melb was stinking hot round that time.
I've just put a new set of Munroe shocks in the 11, can't give any impressions yet as I'm waiting for a wheel alignment. Are they still the 25-3810 part number for the ke70 ones?
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On 19/02/2018 at 5:31 PM, SloRolla said:
I've got some custom ones basically the same, however. I haven't got the brake line clamp thing on the strut, how well does it sit down that low? because my thread for the coils goes quite a way down
If you look at the earlier photos on this page(mainly the one on the green chair) you'll see it runs two coils with one being a feather weight one that sits in bind at ride height but extends with droop. Helps keep it all captive.
Oh and with those brake tabs I will need to cut them off the front and I'll re-weld it on the rear of the strut. It is just me being pedantic is all, the brake lines will need to be remade otherwise.
And the sway bar mount hits way earier now, only got about a turn and a half of lock at most.
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I haven't used anything else on std rebuild engines for years.
Try from the source here http://www.precisionintl.com/
Might be a bit cheaper.
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Did you paint the back of the block, when it was rebuilt?
If yes, then chuck an earth strap from starter bolt to body and you should be peachy. The starter usually earths to the back of the block, can't if paint won't let it. Happened to me many, many years ago.
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I'd be willing to have a look. I'm living in Cranny south atm. Do you have a Gregory's manual? I may have one, I'll have a look.
I'll pm you with contact details tomorrow.
Stu.
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I think roll racing would be a blast. Only a couple of events in Vic last year for it and only just got the datto finally holding more than 17psi.
Congrats on getting to the finals, I've heard some crazy machine's attend those events.
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5 hours ago, Jono.C said:
Do you need a pair of ke1x strut casings Stu? I may have steering arms also if need be
I have that hsd kit for my sprinter in 6kg but I’ll probably be going a lot lower than you so I was worried about wheels hitting guards etc
Thanks for the offer mate, I purchased a whole front end from the knobbler about 4yr ago. Got struts, steering arms and tie-rods(i had to shorten the old ones for the 20 arms)
I went 4's as I'm sick of it skipping the front through slightly rough corners. This should make the front more compliant over the bumps.
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1 hour ago, Doogs said:
Interested to see how you find them Stu. I'm running the 5kg kit in my car and despite what everyone said, it's still a little soft. Depends what you're doing with the car really.
Yeah we'll have to see. Tommy runs same shock and spring rate, seems to work well with his 11, I think it's a suck it and see type of thing. I did also order 5's they should arrive today.
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Ordered Friday, arrived yesterday. Can't say enough how good otomoto are!!!
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I have a geniune toyota set in std size with total seal gapless rings. I pulled em out of my 5k. Yours if you need em.
Thats if the bores are ok.
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So these are on the way. HSD sleeve and spring kit with 4kg springs. Otomoto are such a pleasure to deal with and so far I'd highly recommend them.
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Looking tidy mate. Running full sequential?
The "Beige hornet" boat project.
in Rides - non-Toyota
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A tinny/dingy was what I was looking for at first. That's the reason I got this thing, transport to our camping/fishing spot at Lake Eilden. One 17ft half cab was just not enough with 4 blokes, camping gear and alcohol.