SloRolla
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Posts posted by SloRolla
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Hey guys! So while i'm building my 5k, I have gotten to the point of putting the pistons in. I'm using 40 thou over and rings to suit. However, when I compress them with the tool, it doesn't compress right round equally. and so when I try and lighty tap them into the cylinder they instantly bind. Is this a common problem or am I doing something wrong? I've gapped them to their spec. (Everything is well lubed up and this is how I do it at work and no problems)
Cheers!
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Dude that's baller, looks tops!
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I had a great time at my first Toyota Nationals. Everyone was super friendly and a really good time!
In other news, I got my new carbs. I think they're stunning!
I also bought a 5 speed that is currently sitting at my grandmothers place ready to be picked up!
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I've got some custom ones basically the same, however. I haven't got the brake line clamp thing on the strut, how well does it sit down that low? because my thread for the coils goes quite a way down
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I swear you fellas have the best fun
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So I got a pretty good deal on a parts car, all this for the amout of $0!!!
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current situation, been cleaning up the head to get it off to the machinist, and carbs are being rebuilt in the next few weeks
I also got some front coilovers for a steal, if anyone wants some ke70 camber-tops I've got some to sell.
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1 hour ago, Banjo said:
Good One ! Did the threads indicate whether any of the penetration oil got through, or was it complete rusted on ?
Cheers Banjo
Yeah the oil worked wonders, Made it quite easy to get out
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On 1/20/2018 at 9:01 AM, Banjo said:
Hi James,
Interested to know whether you were able to get that "pesky" broken front head bolt out, & how you did it.
Cheers Banjo
Hey Banjo, and everyone.
I finally got it out. It was my turn at welding so don't mind the horrendous welds, but I was strong enough to crack it.
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12 minutes ago, Banjo said:
Hi James,
Interested to know whether you were able to get that "pesky" broken front head bolt out, & how you did it.
Cheers Banjo
Hey there Banjo, unfortunately I haven't had time to get the bolt out as of yet, but. I think i'm going to heat the bottom of the block a little then weld a nut or 2 on the top and hopefully be able to crack it that way
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What's the quality like on this stuff Jeremy?
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31 minutes ago, Banjo said:
Hi James,
As it has broken off so far up, under the hex head of the bolt, you could possibly get a piece of steel bar, a metre long, & drill a hole in it, in the middle, so it just clears the bolt. As you have a welder, you could weld the bar to the broken bolt, & then use it like a "T" bar, to put some force into it. Weld it, as low as possible. (take the water pump off)
If it doesn't move at all, or the bolt shaft starts to twist, then it will have to be off to the machinist, as you don't want it breaking off again. Being up front, it might have got some water into it, and is rusted in proper. You don't want it breaking off just below the surface of the block, so the machinist doesn't have a flat surface to get an exact centre point for drilling it out.
Good luck, & let us know how you go.
Cheers Banjo
Hey again banjo! Thanks for the reply once again I thought of welding a few nuts onto it and using a socket, but as you said. I don't want to risk it snapping into the block, as it seems pretty damn stuck. Cheers man!
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49 minutes ago, Banjo said:
Hi James,
I wish you luck at the machine shop. I think head bolts are a very overlooked item, but can cause issues, if not installed correctly. When our K Series engines are 40 odd years old, you never quite know what has been done to them by others, in the past. Theoretically, the head bolts stretch when they are pulled down, & should be replaced at some stage, but it doesn't happen very often.
The first thing to check when putting a head back on a block, is to ensure the threaded holes in the block, for the head bolts are perfectly clean. Some spray degreaser & a air nozzle, can usually fix this, but you must wear goggles. Use a bit of stiff wire to unblock any rubbish at the bottom of the holes. It is a good idea to run a die down the thread in the hole, but if not available, then a head bolt, with a perfectly clean thread, and a bit of light oil on the thread, will usually suffice. You should be able to wind the head bolts down by hand, without any binding.
Next ensure all the head bolts are the exact same length. Take one head bolt, & fit the thick hardened washer, & screw it into a hole until it touches the bottom. Pull the washer to the top, & with a steel ruler, measure the distance between the top face of the head, & the underside edge of the washer. Note this measurement "A" to the nearest mm.
Now measure the thickest of the head from the bottom face of the head, to the top of the head bolt boss. Add to this the thickness of the head gasket, which compressed, will normally be about 2-3mm. This total measurement should be approx. 10mm greater than measurement "A", previously measured. If not, then you might have the wrong length head bolts.
This is very important, when swapping heads. You do not want the head bolts ever bottoming out in the bottom of the block threaded holes.
I personally have always put some sewing machine oil on the head bolt threads, before fitting & tightening them up, in sequence as per the manual. A drop of oil on the top of the thick washers does not go astray either. Never tighten head bolts down on aluminium heads without using the thick hardened washers !
Oh, and use a tension wrench. If you haven't got one, then borrow one.
Cheers Banjo
Cheers Banjo, I can't thank you enough. I'll use that guide when putting it back on!! I kept letting it sit in Wd-40 then flushing it and doing it again. After about 6 hours, my dad and I gently tapped one end of the head as we chocked the other end (making sure not to scare it) amazing how that little bit of metal can make me go insane :^)
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1 hour ago, Banjo said:
Hi James,
The head bolts on the K series engine are a substantial bolt. There are probably harder aftermarket ones available, but I have never heard of a standard head bolt snapping off like that. From what you describe it sounds like it snapped off just below the hex head of the bolt. It sounds like the bolt is so rusted in at the thread, that the bolt thread has not moved at all.
You really have no option, other than to lever the head & block apart. In doing so, you may score the inside of the head bolt hole in the head, but it is soft, so should not do too much damage.
What are the condition of the other head bolts you removed OK ? Was this bolt on the back or front corner of the head ? My guess is it was a rear corner, as the back of the engine runs hotter than the front as the engines get older, & the cooling water circulation at the rear of the block deteriorates, as gunk builds up in the water jacket.
Were there big thick hardened washers under the head of each head bolt ? If the washer is omitted, then the bolt can bottom in the threaded hole in the block, causing all sorts of grief.
From memory, not all K series head bolts are exactly the same length. There is always a possibility that the bolts are too long. This problem can be exacerbated, if the head has been excessively skimmed at some time.
I would suggest that once you get the head levered off, that you take the block to a machine shop where they can professionally remove it, although it might take a few days.
I'd hate to see you lose a good 5K block, if you have a go, & it doesn't work out.
A machine shop has several options. If they can't get it to move after a day or so of penetrating oil, they can cut the head bolt off flush with the block top, they then can clamp the block & drill/machine out the centre of the bolt, right to the bottom. More penetrating oil, & a large easy out, might then prove to be your salvation.
Let's know how it goes.
Cheers Banjo
Thanks for the info Banjo, it is actually one of the front ones that was stuck, all the others were quite easy and had a nice "craack" as I undid them, however, we this this one was destined to snap as it didn't have any give. all the bolts have good looking washers, and I agree the head bolts are different lengths. and as soon as I get it off it'll go to the machining place, I don't wanna dance with death. I'm swapping the head with someone for a worked one so I want to keep it alright.
Cheers again
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9 hours ago, Banjo said:
Hi James,
Let me get this straight. You are removing the 5K head, & got all head bolts out, except one, in the corner of the head, which wouldn't budge.
So you dad welds on a spanner, because the bolt head had rounded corners. The bolt came out, but in the process broke off. So the bolt head is off, but the head still won't come free of the block. If the head bolt had broken off in the block, or at the surface of the top of the block, then the head would come away easily. If it is still stuck, then the bolt must have broken inside the head, & must be twisted or distorted, such that the head won't come free.
If the bolt head with welded spanner has come away, then you should be able to look down the hole in the head & see the remaining mangled/twisted bolt shaft. Be very careful levering away the head, as the head is aluminium.
You will also need the remaining part of the bolt shaft, to be able to unscrew t from the block, once you've put some penetrating oil down the thread. Might take a day or so to free it.
Cheers Banjo
Hey Banjo, yeah that's exactly what happened, it snapped off leaving 3/4 of the bolt in there. if I put lubricant down then use an Easy out or tool of the like would that also release it?
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So I'm pulling off my 5k head to do some stuff, however, I got all but 1 off. (because I'm smart and rounded it) After about an hour of working. My dad welded a ring spanner onto it and finally got it off, but it snapped inside. After getting everything else off. the Head is free from all the block but that one corner, could the bolt possibly broken threaded between the two? Cheers.
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I'm starting the year by stripping and painting my engine and bay. I feel 2018 is going to be good ;)
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There's a guy down in the Southern Highlands, (if you're ever down this way) who did my torn rear seat back rest for $180. Really tight and nice stitching
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I'm on my Ps, with it low and loud, haven't had any cop attention even going 5kms over past one.
But yeah I agree, It's so stupid. yet P platers are allowed to drive 200kw 200sx? -
if you think it's the pump, pull it out and try it on a bench, with an external power and earth (not for very long so it doesn't burn it selfout)
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Yea, merry Christmas fellas.
Hope everyone stays safe over the break.-
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20 minutes ago, Wingsforwheels said:
Thanks for you help guys--I don;t think there is any chance of me borrowing a trans jack before tomorrow, but Jeremy's comments have me a bit worried... Have others had experience changing a clutch on ramps with a couple of guys and/or a trolley jack to support the gearbox? Thinking of a flat piece of plywood or similar on top of the jack?
Thanks for putting up with me, total newbie!
Wait, there's another way to do it?
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has it been recently replaced?
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31 minutes ago, rebuilder86 said:
ok now I'm totally confused.
hehe
You say your just going to run it without vacuum... then say that ur running PCV without the can.. so wheres the can goibg and whats its purpuse?
Sorry about that, I am going to just tap into the manifold for the pcv, giving it vacuum and also to burn off again. I was thinking of running the PCV to the catch can and not having it to the manifold at all. That's where the can was going to be. But now, I will run the rocker breather to a can and have the PCV not connected at all. So the oil and grease from the breather can be caught somewhere
Binding rings
in General Mechanical
Posted
Cheers for the reply Taz, I've been using this as a guide
piston ring clearance:
Ring End Gap: Top compression ring 0.10-0.28mm
Lower compression Ring: 0.15-0.30mm
Oil ring: 0.2-0.7mm
Ring clearance in groove:
Top compression ring: 0.03mm-0.07mm
Lower compression ring: 0.09-0.06mm
not sure if that's good or not, what kind of gapping would you recommend?
yeah I've seen those, I might have to resort to them. Or else scab around work and see what I can get.
Cheers fellas