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ke70dave

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Everything posted by ke70dave

  1. I don't understand why these potatoes don't just edit their old posts...I did - but I'm no potato.
  2. To be fair no-one ever fixes anything on the side of the road now. Even flat tyres people get towed away as they cant change it, and the racq ppl wont change it on the side of the road as its too dangerous. My dad always likes to tell the story when he had an old 70s corona and it overheated but dad was happy to limp it home, and the Racq guy who happened to stop wouldn't give him water to put in the car. Wouldn't do anything other than tow him for fear of litigation I suppose. and this was 30yrs ago! I remember us waiting in the car and dad walking off to find some water. but he did made it back with 4L of water and he got the car home. And I mean, I like fixing stuff, but if my 2015 dmax doesn't start, buggered if i know what I'm going to do on the side of the road. Apart form checking the fuses, I'm out of ideas haha.
  3. But all the tesla evangelists have been telling me that EV cars don't require maintenance.... Family member of ours has a tesla model y and had a small incident where they rubbed the quarter panel up against a post in a carpark. turns out there is like 3 tesla approved repair shops in Brisbane. Took them 4 months before anyone was even available to have a look at it to quote/order parts, let alone do the work.
  4. I reckon the closer to 2030 and 35 we get the more watered down the UKs rules will get. I think public opinion of EVs is changing, all those early adopters have already bought one, everyone else doesn't want one or cant afford one. Lots of commentary in the USA on how they cant move used EVs off the 2nd hand lots as everyone knows they have costly risks associated, replacement battery costs etc, and you cant fix them yourself really, far as I can tell all the parts for teslas somewhat restricted to dealers etc. not to mention would you want to to try and fix them yourself, its like fixing an i-phone, possible but the change of bricking it is high and then you really are on your own as they prolly wont help you if you touch it. Everyone in AUS seems to get an elec car on leases as they have the tax incentive, and you can give it back before it needs any real maintenance.....im as DIY as it gets and I'm not lining up to buy a cheap tesla as its locked down and I cant even fix if I tried. One false move and the thing will brick itself in my driveway. The laws you suggest basically knock out an entire auto repair industry. people aren't going to like that. and how they can justify such things on the basis of environmental baffles the mind. Crushing fixable cars, moronic.
  5. nice outcome. I do miss working on the old K engines. So simple. I love how much ground you can see when looking down into the engine bay. hah.
  6. nothing is impossible. you can put any differential you like in, but its all going to be custom. ae86 is coil springs for a start, so you will need to cut all the mounts off the ae86 diff and weld on ones to mount leaf springs. or hack up your ke20 and fit coil spring seats. 5 link in a ke20, again custom made. weld in the mounts. sounds easy when you say it fast. lots of work. Your gonna need a custom length tails haft for any diff you pick, not a big deal for a tails haft shop but you need to measure it once your diff is in and then get one made. custom custom custom. also consider the fact everything you just mentioned is 40yrs+ old. its all going to need to be rebuilt regardless.
  7. if it is indeed a no budget build, then a proper ECU is a no brainer. as soon as ITBs come into it you really should be using an aftermarket ECU. You cant get a reliable MAP signal with ITBs. People have claimed for years you can get them to run on the oem ecu, but everyone if seen has never run properly, spluttered and carried on. Just not worth the hastle. and i dunno what you mean by "fully built" but if its got cams and compression, then why waste all this effort on a stock ecu that isn't optimized for your arrangment. But the good news is that the 16v engine is a about as basic as it gets. no vvt, 4 clr. So you can pretty much use the cheapest ecu, those haltech sprint 500 ecus can be had real cheap these days, i saw one for 300bucks the other day. yes they are discontinued but they are modern enough to still be useful. Even a brand new elite 550 is only 1200bucks. Really not bad at all for a current model modern ecu. Make yourself a loom, there's hardly any wires (4injector, air temp, water temp, tps and cam sensor), run the old dizzy if you want for real easy setup (single wire control from the ecu!), or convert to dizzy less using various coil on plug options. Learn how to tune it. you will need a variable TPS, i cant recall if the 4age is variable or a switch. get a good wideband sensor and controller and off you go.
  8. Drop that bad boy off at an engine reconditioner and get them to clean it and inspect it for cracks and face the surface. then you'll get a shiny flat head with hopefully no known cracks. But put a straight edge (metal ruler will do) across it from corner to corner and see if its flat first. but a machine shop will quickly tell you if its saveable.
  9. I wonder what the 3rz-fe is like in Na form, basically the spiritual successor to the 22re. came from the petrol hiluxs from about 1995 onwards. 2.7L too. people do silly things with them turbo, but NA they must be alright. unfortunately anything 4age, T50 and ae86 related is becoming quite hard to find, and if you do its $$ and still needs to be rebuilt!
  10. There's a million threads on the internet about ke70 fitment, and anything about ae86 is relevant too. check out rollaclub as well as ae86drivingclub. lots of old threads. Your chosen wheel size will be pushing it. 15x7+13 with a 195/50/R15 was about as far as i wanted to push it on mine back in the day. 13x6 -6 would sticks out another +6mm or so. It would be a close fit. should be ok on the front as you can add a bit of camber to tuck them in. rear though you might have to roll the guards a bit.
  11. gonna cost you a fortune to get that fixed professionally. you might have to chat to a car restoration place, rather than a panel beater. most panel beaters these days don't beat panels, just paint them. But based purely on those photos I reckon you could get most of it fixed in the backyard to at least back to a drivable state. Just gotta have a go, you can buy/borrow hydraulic porta powers fairly cheap - but youve got to be careful what you push off, as you don't want to bend somewhere else at the same time. Big lumps of wood and big hammers too. you can probably bash out the bumper too but its hard to fix creases in chrome. I dented the crease one on my e30 bumpers years ago, and i bashed it back into shape. most people cant tell, but if you look close there is still a crease.
  12. Crikey. Blast from the past. Eventually all the forums will disappear, and we will be back to individuals in sheds figuring stuff out on their own and not being bothered to tell anyone.
  13. How strong of a differential do you need? are you goin g for big power. Hilux diffs are extremely heavy, and i dont think is a wise chose ever. Really need to consider how much power you are going to make, and probably more importantly how what tire and how much of a moron you intend on driving. breaking diffs is not easy, even the oem one will put up with alot of abuse before it breaks. when considering ke70 diffs, remember they are the same as an ae86. here is my opinion of diffs ke70 diff - quite strong for most NA engines, but no LSDs available. (Except i think some really really rare TRD racing ones) ae86 Australian delivered diff - "S series" - drum brakes - no LSD options - some say weaker than the ke70 diff. but either way, not worth considering ae86 Japanese diffs - "T series" - available with both drums and disc brakes - oem lsds available, and many aftermarket - the disc one is probably the best option for most small capacity NA engines and even high powered ones if driven with some mechanical sympathy. T18 diff - drum brake version of the T series above - came in the toyota T18 in Australia - good option too. bloody rare these days. T series from other cars - Celica's, coronas. my knowledge is limited, but its the same diff as the ae86. not sure if it physically bolts in - gotta be close. Above all bolt in to a ke70. all the ones below are custom installs. cut off all the brackets, and weld on new ones in the right spot. Yr22 Torago diff - we put one of these in a mates ae86 many years ago - it takes an F series LSD from various oem Toyota cars from the 80s. i cant exactly recall. Altezza too I think. quite a big differential. huge drum brakes. really only suitable for high powered engines. You can put on disc brakes off some car as well some obscure corona or something. but finding one of these wont be easy, probably all been scrapped by now. Hilux diff - enormous diff - not sure on LSD availability. but think about it, its a diff designed to tow 3000kg caravans. could weigh 100kg. and a ke70 only weighs 800kg. just to big. R31 skyline diff. available with discs, a rubbish oem "cone" lsd. but there is an aftermarket KAAZ option. pretty good option for a ke70 i think. but all custom brakets etc. Volvos and alphas, i don't know to much about these, but there are plenty of 80s cars with live axel diffs that had LSDs, but its all custom. but i have seen volvo and alpha diffs used over the years. if you are really keen you can put any differential you like in, if you are happy to weld on the brackets in the right spot and get a custom drive shaft made. Remember you want the lightest differential possible that will put up with your task. as we are talking about unsprung weight here. the worst kind of weight. Also I haven't mentioned any diff lengths. that's one thing to consider with what wheels you are gonna run - physically fitting the wheels in the guards, as wel as legalities on track increase. You can shorten diffs, but you then need short axels etc. gets expensive fast.
  14. SAFC and stock ecu is pretty shit as you'll be chasing your tail as you don't really know what the oem ecu is doing...what happened to the megasquirt? I've got megasquirt on my e30 its a way better option than safc.
  15. Apparently I made this alomst 14years ago.. https://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/8255-UNDERCAR-surge-tank-KE70 I would do things a bit differently now i think but i think the general idea would suit you.
  16. Those lights are certainly unique! where did you get them?
  17. Well there is not too much too gearboxes, but unless you somehow manage to wrestle it free via the gear stick its going to be a gearbox removable and disassemble to fix it.
  18. Ooooh nice update. You wont know your self with Air conditioning, it revolutionised the use of my e30, I can now go places and not turn up sweaty. and living up north it would almost be mandatory. Im sure you have it all sorted but if you need misc AC parts this guy was super helpful. https://speedyairspares.com.au/ He's up your way too. He went over and above looking for E30 bits for me.
  19. I took my e30 bmw for a drive on sunday and just parked it out side in the spectator parking on the driver training track. It was a bit of a late decision to go to the asian day but i had a few hrs spare in the morning so the brother and went for a spin. Very impressive selection of cars on display. I sold my ke70 years ago, who knows why i still hang around! the white ae71 on track with the 1jz was impressive to see. The e30 is fun, but i still love old toyotas, and jap cars in general. The e30 got belted around lakeside at the last euro day. I think there is another one coming up ill be attending hopefully too. Rockhampton. Steve sounds very keen!
  20. I knew i had seen your car on here somewhere. I see you both attended the All asian day yesterday at lakeside. I had a good look over both cars, hung around to see if you were there but im sure you were wandering around like me too. Fantastic looking cars! Couple of sneaky photos I took. edit. wait a minute, this isnt the LHD one. does he own this "RHDke55" and "LHDke55"?
  21. why such big wheels? you really should stick to 14s or 15s on a ke70, unless you are building a show car or something. Youve got no chance of making them fit without serious modification, not to mention the legality of it. 15x6.5+23 on s13 gear really only just fit on my car with fairly comprehensively rolled front guards. yours will stick out a further 52mm than this. S13 front control arms are miles too long on ke70. I battled with it for years. R31 is a bit shorter and works better.
  22. I had a bit of a look and i cant find a listing, if it were me doing the job i would find something that fits pretty close and make a bracket to fit. you will probably need to get some hoses made to suit, but i dont suspect your oem hoses are much good anyway. "cool drive" is the company in Australia that seems to have the most aftermarket air conditinoing bits, here is the page in question, https://view.publitas.com/cooldrive-1/cooldrive-2014-air-conditioning-catalogue/page/327 No listing for ke70, but it has all the dimensions of others to see if they fit. actually i notice part number CN1191 in the above link is for ae86. I reckon that would be pretty damn close to ke70. check the dimensions on the car. unless of course you can find a 2nd hand AC condenser, but i dunno how many ke70s even came with AC, probably not too many. a wanted to buy advert on a few facebook groups might yeild something. also do you have an old one you are replacing? if its leaking you might be able to get it tig welded to fix the leak.
  23. What an awesome contraption. What sort of gearbox does it have? Old engine probably likes a thicker oil. 15w-40 or 20w 50 probably a bit closer. Depending on your climate. 10w 30 isn't going to kill it though. I wouldn't be too worried especially if you are just playing around with it for now. Maybe next time go a bit thicker. It might not be getting road heat but its also not going very fast so it might heat up more than you think. As for the PCV cant help you there, but banjos got you covered.
  24. The offset is a bit high for a ke70. You want closer to +10 for flush fitting yet stock guards. +28 might hit the strut too especially in 7.5 If you haven't bought the wheels yet i would look for something more suitable that you dont need spacers for. Here is some historic post that i mention that 15x6.5+23 hit the strut on my ke70, so your 7.5 +28 will definately hit. And here is a link to a heap of threads about ke70 wheels.
  25. Those civic radiators should be plenty of cooling capacity for the 4age. All the civic guys use them with their turbo B and K engines. I always wanted to put a small radiator like you have there and then an inter cooler on the other side. Side by side coolers. I reckon that would be neat packaging. What degree thermostat have you got in it? and does your fan temperature switch have a switching temperature stamped on it? You could always put in a lower temperature switch on your fan, if its currently 95deg, something like a 90deg might be better. This link here suggests that the oem fan switch temperature is "90 - 85 deg". A lower temp will mean the fan turns off and on more often when sitting in traffic, but it would keep your temp lower and more consistent https://www.ebay.com/itm/111952283977 You are more likely to get consistent temperatures with a clutch fan on the front of the engine, but theres nothing wrong with an electric fan just you will get these temperature gradients as the fan comes on/off. Arguably as long as you dont go over 100deg you are fine though.
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