MrTougéTka
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Posts posted by MrTougéTka
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Sounds like a loose top nut clunk, but the top nut is defo tight!
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Alright so idk what ive done wrong with the installation, but the strut now clunks slightly. Got it rechecked and failed again on the "shock not being installed properly" for god sakes.
It wasn't even that bad. Really minor play.
But anyways i ripped it apart again and ended up insulator taping the shock body and spacer so it is now one whole unit and sat inside the strut body bloody snug.
Thought I had it sussed then i rattled the top hat down till it was freakin tight and it improved but the clunking sound is still present.
Had a look at the top hat and the bearing looked a bit shagged?
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Update!
Hey sorry for all my confusion, this insert game has been all new to me! I appreciate everyone who has added their 2 cents. Wether it be roasting me or not, i thank you. Lmao
I've found working on these old skool cars to be quite challenging at times due to my lack of knowledge, but saying that I've learnt quite a fair bit during the process! Its been an awesome yet frustrating experience so far lol But Nothing beats working on your own sack of junk and turning it into something sick(;
But in saying that..... The ae92 struts are in... the super lows slapped shut with thy top hat.... and the mighty blue turd will be off for its recheck tomorrow!
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5 minutes ago, parrot said:
However, a man’s got to know his limitations. Or so someone once said.
You might want to look into things a bit more. The idea with AE92 inserts is shorter stroke, but needs to be done in conjunction with lowered springs and everything that goes along with that. Otherwise you will just limit your damper travel until you wreck the inserts. Go with what you have got now, and consider where you want to go with the car in the future.
Its got super low springs in it atm, but i mainly want a stiffer ride along with lower ride height. But nothing too serious, won't be seeing a track anytime soon lmao
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Here is another piccy of the strut / rotor
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3 minutes ago, LittleRedSpirit said:
Have a look on the strut for a part number it should be ten digits and if you can find it I can probably look up the part.
This is all it has on there. The guy at Toyota was definitely certain they were ke70, his mate lowered the car previously
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An owner of this car along the lines has swapped out the factory suspension for ke70" struts ".. So all I'd need to do is buy some ae92 ones and swap the inserts? Apparently I'll need a spacer in the bottom of the strut body to make it compatible? Correct? Just taking a guys word from Toyota here.
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20 hours ago, parrot said:
Once you get the top nut off your macpherson strut, it is extremely simple. Get on with it and you will quickly see
I've never taken apart shock absorbers before! I may sound like a twat, but i was only looking for an easy way out because i need it legal, but i understand the theory behind changing the inserts etc now. Quite amazed how much modification and variation you can come up with!
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I understand the concept now, you literally pull guts out of the shock! Had a yarn to a local guy at Toyota and he enlightened me on the subject and he reckoned ae92 inserts to go with the ke70 strut! Apparently his mate used to own the sack a couple years back. Small world lmao
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9 hours ago, LittleRedSpirit said:
Man buys shocks. Man gets told precisely how to change shocks. Man decides the work to change shocks the simplest and only way is 'fluffing' around. Man needs instant gratification. Man wants a quicker way that the actual simplest way to complete the task. Man needs to follow instructions. Man needs to realise it takes about 4 extra minutes of work from the state of things in the above photo to complete the job. Man should enjoy the benefit of new shocks sometime in the next ten to twelve minutes if he can find a big pipe wrench and the will to do it.
Thats cracked me up, sorry the cars been pissing me off lately lmao
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Image i found on Google. They look pretty similar!
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21 minutes ago, altezzaclub said:
You're confusing me with shocks and struts..
So, the original toyota shocks would have been a wet shock inside the strut. That is a twin-tube system with the strut full of oil.
The shock you bought is a sealed unit that needs to go inside the strut to replace the original wet shock.
You should pull the big nut off over a container with the shock in the vice like you have and catch all the old oil. Collect the wet shock and put it aside, and clean the strut out.
Put your new shock in the strut, fill it with oil to an inch below the top or so & screw that big nut back on.
Keep the wet shock as you can rebuild and revalve them for fun if you can find seals for them. That's how you adjust your own shocks, whereas the sealed units you can't do anything about.
If you open the strut and find a sealed shock inside you know somone has changed them in the past.
Sounds like a bit of fluffing around, what struts are compatible with Carinas? 86'? Ke70? Etc Really after a quick fix as i need the part ASAP to get it road legal.
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Surely somebody must know what they're out of, if not I'll give toyota a ring tomorrow and quiz something up
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New Shock from Bnt part #
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Here is the original shock part #AI 18k
Guessing its a factory toyota part from the label.
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I decided to replace my front shockies due to a major leak which caused a failed warrant of fitness.
So i ripped into bnt and ordered a full set thinking all would be all cool.... Backs went in piece of piss... But to cut a long story short the front struts were completely different to the ones that i ordered.
Apparently the ones i ordered were factory Carina inserts, but they have no seat for the spring?! Surely i shouldn't have to weld one on?
so I'm guessing somebody along the line has converted the fronts to ke70 struts maybe?!
I'll attach the struts in comparison and the list the part numbers.
Because both struts have different part #
Any help on the part numbers would be ideal! Please and thank you(:
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6 minutes ago, parrot said:
I’d say that all the lowering blocks are going to do is move the axle up relative to the height of the springs, and you will be left with the same problem. You will need to get the springs set properly.
The shock may have blown after bing compressed too far
The shockies on the rear? Yeah it puzzled me. I'll flick through a picture of the damage
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Gday guys! So I'm in a bit of a pickle at the mo. Took my car for a warrant(new zealand) to get it road worthy. Its failed on blown drivers side shock and cracks in the body/floor above the diff head.
To cut a long story short the diff(from previous owners attempts to lower the car) had been slapping against the floor causing it to crack. Its been lowered(flattened leaves i think) and the bump stops above the ubolts have been cut in half! Lol but the stopper above the diff had been left normal height?
If i ordered a generic set of lowering blocks would it stiffen up the rear and stop the so called diff slap? I'm guessing its getting the extra travel from the bump stops being modified. Any thought on this would be much appreciated. Need to get the cracks welded up to pass, then she'll be all go!
Cheers, jayden.
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9 hours ago, altezzaclub said:
That looks like a stock KE70 pedal setup.
Here's my 5K manual setup, converted from auto also.
Here's my other KE70, pedals from an AE71 so it is hydraulic for the T50. Quite different, but bolts straight in.
Yeah so I'm guessing I'd need to go t series tranny and hydraulic clutch setup by the looks of that,
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9 hours ago, Jono.C said:
You’ll probably need to pull it out for comparison to know what you’re looking at
Aren’t the carina based on a corona platform so an st141/ rt142 pedalbox May be the closest? Although they are hydraulic.
Yeah thats what i reckon, or so I've heard. I'll get it legal before i rip it to bits, its going for a warrant this week so after that I'll rip the kent out!
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2 minutes ago, MrTougéTka said:
So you're saying a modded ke70 box would work? I'm just over thinking this probably, just need to get in there and buy one
I got offered this for 10 bucks?
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3 hours ago, altezzaclub said:
The KE70 just tacks a clutch onto the side of the brake pedal mounting, and the clutch pedal arm has a massive bow in it to get down past the steering just like the brake arm.
So you're saying a modded ke70 box would work? I'm just over thinking this probably, just need to get in there and buy one
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Has he got a phone number?
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Unknown Front Struts in Ka67 Wagon
in General Mechanical
Posted
It was really loose last time i put it in. I reckon the spacer just needs to be at leasg 3-4mm longer. The tape around the body defiantly helped