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Posts posted by 82ksev

  1. Gday guys is there any panel beaters on here that can give me a hand I'm in Melbourne when i started the body work it didnt look to bad but as i progressed i found two spots that I'm having trouble getting right and don't know where to start to fix it 

  2. 53 minutes ago, altezzaclub said:

    "Basically the same as 86 but should be easier to find.  These days though potentially just as hard.  "

    Yep, it may depend on what you can find, as all these items are getting pretty rare these days.  You could cut the seats off your KE70 struts and weld them back on lower down, a simple operation that gives you an idea of what height you want the car to run at. I'd chop the springs a coil or two, most people think its a terrible idea but its only got to last you a month of driving until you decide if its bottoming out too much or you're fine with it. With bumpy roads you don't want it too stiff or lacking travel. Then find 50mm struts to replace the little KE70 tubes. Corona setups are more common in the wreckers these days, or just buy aftermarket coilovers. If you get pillowball tops they will be very harsh and noisy compared to urethane.

    I'd try to find the lightest brake setup that works too, you don't need massive heavy calipers & discs pounding up and down as unsprung weight.  If you're not getting brake fade currently then the KE70 setup is adequate for what you do. I fitted little Diahatsu ventilate discs & calipers, they weigh about the same, and one day I'll get 50mm tubes welded onto the KE70 hubs for larger shocks but the same steering setup.

    Find a larger rear sway if you haven't fitted one already, a Celica or an aftermarket one. One of the nicest handling tuneups you can do, along with Corona LCAs.

    Ok so i can find everything aftermarket for ae86 setup i think lower control arms, steering arms, coilovers, rotors, just can't find any calipers em i missing anything i need. I just brought the car and it has chopped springs in it its pretty much sitting on bump stops 

  3. 1 hour ago, ke70dave said:

    Basically everything from the ke70 goes in the tip and you replace the entire front with ae86 gear. Struts, brakes, hubs etc. You then have the option of jdm ae86 brakes which arent all that exciting but are vented and do pull the ke70 up well when reconditioned. 

    Its a royal pain in the ass due to the rarity of ae86 parts which is why little red suggests ra40. Basically the same as 86 but should be easier to find. These days though potentially just as hard. 

    If you have a look at my build thread (google "ke70daves ke70". I have some info in there if what i did (like 10yrs ago:|) . But its a pretty standard ae86 custom coilover install. I too went with the sw20 style shocks. Good length. 

    Thanks mate so can i just buy all aftermarket parts 

  4. 20 minutes ago, LittleRedSpirit said:

    Yes, you need the ke70 strut tops though so don't buy ae86 cambertops be sure and buy the ones for ke70.  You may need to measure the setup you have, I know TTT does a lot of different top plates depending on market and year.

    Will i need ae86 rotors and calipers or will my ones fit. I'm not looking to drift just driving hard is my thing 

  5. 6 hours ago, LittleRedSpirit said:

    KE70 strut goes in the bin.

    Inserts are smaller than every good thing out there, you have to have ae86 struts as a minimum.  AE86 suspension is completely compatible with ke70.  Personally I prefer ra40 struts as they are like ae86 struts except you have a bigger bearing, and brake.  You can buy Wilwood kits for ra40 strut from TTT if you want big brakes.

    A lot of people use xt130 strut, they are much like ra40 but without a bolt on caliper mount, its cast to the strut leg.  Takes more work to modify the standard brakes, but there is a twin piston caliper on wagons or there's a Hilux 4 piston caliper that fits with Peugeot rotors if you search.  This requires some machining on the end of the cast stalks.

    don't use the ra60/sa63/rt142/ra65 or st141 strut its too odd for the chassis, and it can never quite feel right.

    You could also use any coil over that's built for ae86.  If you like that low life, then look for something that's based off of ae92 length strut insert, which is the same as Tokico HTS, short stroke TRD, or the like.  I personally had coil overs this short once on a previous car and I would categorise the ride quality as unsuitable for Australian roads.  When I had the chance to build something for another car, I used the longer sw20 mr2 front strut insert and the HSD weld on 5kg coil over kit.  Its ideal for what I wanted.  Legal clearance, a safe amount of droop, and a car that can handle the bumps and potholes we have installed in our highways up here in QLD.  I also used TTT needle bearing top hat spacers so that I didn't hear my springs adjust as I turned in carparks.  This combined with sticky tires and a type 2 torsen lsd is a great traction setup, and I can run a height range thats anywhere from on its nuts to slightly lowered over stock.

    If your interests are drift.  Then You would want it a lil stiffer than me, lower, with a stiff as possible rear swaybar, swap the torsen lsd for a clutch type 2 way so aggressive pedalling will equal more drift.  The torsen looks for the most traction and sends power there, the 2 way more or less, once a certain power input is surpassed, will just burn 2 wheels and give you the feeling of a controllable burn on the wheels as opposed to just putting the power to the road.  You might end up adding caster to make high speed initiations easier.  More tyre pressure will get you sideways faster but limit your control when your there.  I'm rambling, damn holidays...

    Thanks mate yes i know these potholes you speak of very well vic roads are terrible 

    So i can just buy a set of ae86 suspension and it will bolt straight in? 

  6. 29 minutes ago, Banjo said:

    Yes !  When the idle mixture adjustment screw is wound in as far as it can go, it completely blocks fuel coming out the "idle port hole" at the very bottom of the primary venturi. As you unwind it, it allows more fuel to be sucked out of the idle port, & renders the idling mixture less lean.

    A very good check is to make sure that the electric solenoid valve on the carby is working. It is powered by the ignition circuit.  It prevents run-on, once the ignition has been turned off, as it allows fuel to flow to the "slow" & "idle" ports only.

    Once you have the idling good, & to your liking, simply disconnect the wire to the carby solenoid, & the engine should starve & stop, or at least get very fluffy.  That proves the solenoid is working

    You can usually hear the solenoid clicking, if you turn the ignition switch on & off. 

    Surprisingly, the idle circuit it still in play, & contributing to the overall A/F ratio, when you are driving.  I learnt this once on a long trip. All of sudden, the engine was not  "as strong", & I didn't know why. At the next small town I passed through, I had to pull up, at a pedestrian crossing, & the engine cut out.   That gave me the clue.

    I pulled over, & found the green connector, for the single wire to the carby solenoid had gone o/c.  Cleaned it up, & it then idled properly, & the engine was back to full power.


    Yeh i unplugged that the other day when it started idling crap and the engine cut out so i knew that was a solenoid. So does this mean my new fuel pump has less fuel pressure or doesn't fuel pressure effect idle mixture 

  7. 8 hours ago, Banjo said:

    That is the idling mixture adjustment screw, i've highlighted.  If you screw it right out, you'll see it has a "pointed" tip.

    The idle speed adjustment is the big thumb screw to the right & up, in that picture.  It usually has a large screwdriver slot in it.

    Cheers Banjo 

    Cheers mate that worked good idle is sweet i had to wined it out does that mean it was lean 

  8. 21 hours ago, Banjo said:

    I'm assuming this is new mechanical fuel pump, fitted to a K Series engine ?


    The first thing to check is what volume the pump is delivering.  Remove all spark plugs.  Disconnect metal fuel line at the carby.  Run a hose from this fuel line into a container, & turn the engine over for 10-15 seconds.  Measure how much fuel is collected. 

    You may have disturbed something, during the changeover.  The smallest crack on the suction side of the pump, in a rubber hose, can cause horrible delivery issues.

    Did you refit the stand-off "gasket shaped" mounting block, between pump & engine ?

    Let us know how you go.

    Cheers Banjo




    My pump has a return on it 

    Why does it come with 2 gaskets and if it was a fuel delivery problem wouldn't it drive terrible as well 

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