Jump to content

G46

Members
  • Content Count

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by G46


  1. So.. The not charging issue came to an end..

    I found out that the fusebox is not receiving 12v as its suppose to. Thus not able to provide suffocient voltage to activate the coil inside the voltage regulator..

    I measured voltage from battery post to starter motor = 12.5V

    Measured from battery post to fusebox = 3V (too much voltage drop)

    Measured resistance from battery post to alternator B+ = 0.3ohms

    Measured resistance from battery post to fusebox = 90+ ohms

    So i traced the thick white wire..removed the insulation tape to see where it taps into..and i found out a heavily oxidized join, so i cut section by section until i see a good bare copper conductor. Gave it a good squirt of contact cleaner

    Pull a new 8 Gauge cable from battery to the alternator B+ post. And join them back to the fusebox

    Measured the resistance from battery post to alternator B+ = 0.2 ohms

    Measured the resistance from battery post to fusebox = 0.3 ohms

     

    Since then, i started the engine and  it charges right up..measuring 14.5V across battery terminals..

    Next is headlights wiring which altezzaclub has posted, and also tackling something funnier which is whenever i press the brakes, it turned on the cluster light..its following the brake light..

    By the way. Just to share my ride on new wheels

    15x8x9 et0 wrapped on 195/50/15 all around 

    IMG20190426170310.jpg

    IMG20190426170553.jpg

    • Like 1

  2. came out not the brakes is the main culprit, it could be internally shorted alty, I'm gonna source out a used alty from my friend, he got one wagon about to be scrapped, so this is my opportunity to pull out parts from the car. will post updates after this


  3. So back to electrical gremlin..what relay is on the kick panel fuse? Its  humming when i turn off the ignition..i was about to test drive the car again after fixing, somehow when i press the brake..car shuts off and leads me to believing the car has the brake wiring issue..could be short to ground, i remember the previous owner mentioned the turn signal lit up if he steps on the brake. I'm gonna isolate the issue one by one and go from there


  4. [B]Name[/B]: Gee
    
    [B]Car[/B]:1982 KE70 GL
    
    [B]Motor & Driveline[/B]: stock 4k, 5spd stock tranny and diff
    
    [B]Suspension & Brakes[/B]: lowered coils, stock brakes.
    
    [B]Wheels & Tyres[/B]: currently on 14" but 15x8x9 et20 waiting to be installed wrapped in 195/50/15
    
    [B]Interior[/B]: stock
    
    [B]Body[/B]: converted to DX looks, BMW headlights, small triangle rear window cover & rear windshield rain runner,  body all bone stock
    
    [B]Other[/B]: upgraded the door lock cylinder to different lock and unusual key
    
    
    

    IMG20190413174030.jpg

    IMG20190413174036.jpg

    IMG20190413174052.jpg


  5. 1 hour ago, Banjo said:

    Hi Gee,

    P.S.  So what did you find was actually stopping the alternator from charging ?  Interested to know.

    Cheers Banjo

    Banjo, it was my original regulator, here in my country we call it as  cut out, as it disables the starter and stop the alternator from charging. i opened it and found the coil inside for switching was burnt.

    the new alternator i bought also wont work, as the 3 wire connector is on the back, while the original is on the side. even i extend the wiring, still doesnt work.. so i put back my original alternator, but with new regulator/cut out, it works..however after a while..my regulator failed again, i don't see any trace of burnt inside the regulator/cut out coil, it doesnt charge now..just in case, i bought a new regulator again since its dirt cheap..

    as for the headlight, i will try to get it working as the previous owner hacked the wiring, i will figure it out and re-do the wires, because i run dual headlight here, converted to DX from GL with bmw headlights.


  6. 1 hour ago, altezzaclub said:

    Woo! Nice! I was expecting something rougher than that!  So it can be a project car that is off the road being worked on while you do an engine upgrade.

    In 15years your first-born can drive it!!

    I agree, if this car is still holding strong, I'm gonna let my first born to drive it


  7. Thanks, but i like to keep it to stock engine, as chaging the engine to make it road legal is quite a hassle here. next on my list:-

    -fix the headlight wiring
    -recharge the AC (is it R12?)
    -15x8x9 ET0 wheels wrapped in 195/50/15
    -full interior cleaning and bacteria killing


  8. gonna keep the car as part of my project car, not really a daily but more into appreciating the old car..i swapped my motorbike for this car, since i have newborn kid, so there will be not much time to ride again, i rather get a car which can bring my wife and kid to go out with..this is the current looks for the car, of course the wheels will be changed. i have a 15x8x9 et0 wheels on standby..managed to fix the not charging issue, also next is to get the headlights working again and A/C to be recharged.

    i have 1993 BMW 730i, 2012 kia optima and 2012 toyota fortuner..

    IMG20190413174036.jpg


  9. Huge update, after fiddling around with the help of keith's diagram, i found no tampered wire, but the new alt wont work with my car, and i have oem busted regulator, installing new regulator with the old alt works like a charm..i guess I'm gonna return the new alt, anyway what alternator with integrated regulator will work with the engine without modifying the bracket?


  10. Regulator is different brand from what it had in the car, but i also don't know what brand it had in the car..so i have a look on the wiring diagram, i tried giving a switched source to the regulator, it disables my starter circuit, brake warning lights..therefore unable to crank..if i disabled the switched source, it will still activate the starter and everything works fine except i have no charging


  11. hi Banjo, 

    yes he did replied my PM, anyhow my alternator that i got is externally regulated still, i believe the problem goes from downstream after engine fuse 10A, if i remove the fuse, i got supply upstream, if i put in fuse (introduce load downstream) it shuts off..thus not activating the external regulator to switch on


  12. hi,

     

    i own a 1982 KE70 GL converted to DX appearance, one thing i notice is the car is not charging, bought a brand new alternator and regulator, still not charging..then i started contacting few of my friends, downloading almost relevant wiring diagram, came up with a missing main relay. Then i manage to source a relay from a a friend who has the same car but the car is heavily rusted and no longer roadworthy, i pulled the fusebox from it, install the main relay, bam a click on the relay, but the car still wont charge, i  checked the charge fuse, its not getting power, i checked the "10A engine fuse" its not getting power, so i pulled the engine fuse out (based on wiring diagram troubleshooting) now it has power supply (checked by a test light and a multimeter) i double confirm by removing the main relay, and the supply is gone, so i put back the relay in. 

     

    now if i put the engine fuse back in, the supply will be gone, no 12V, from the diagram, it wont even activate the "switched source" to the regulator..hence i my regulator will not work and will not charge.

     

    i appreciate if there is detailed schematic of the fusebox or whatever pinpoint i should look at.

×
×
  • Create New...