LucaKE
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Posts posted by LucaKE
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Hello corolla people!
I have recently acquired another corolla, an ae71 auto sedan. Currently has a borgie in it. I have got some very nice shockworks suspension on the way and chasing the last few manual parts to swap into the vehicle.
I want to eventually fit a lsd rear in the vehicle. Currently getting parts, (and money), for a efi smallport 4age swap. I know the borgs don't support lsds, so a new diff is needed! I have done a fair amount of research and commonly people suggest slapping in a japan spec T-series from a Corolla. However, those are few and far between and are costly to import and or purchase locally. T-18 diffs are also out of the question, until one pops up for cheap with the diff still in it.
This smallport is going to make 100-120kw max. I'm not going crazy here, and I don't to weld the current diff, as it gets driven daily. I have been told a hilux diff and a F-series diff are heavy and very very overkill. Is there another reasonably cost effective alternative with lsd options? I read a fantastic thread from altezzaclub of a RA60 T-series being put in a KE70. What lsds would suit that? I have heard its the zenki ae86 ones but am unsure!
Thank you for your time.
Cheers, Luca
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Hi there guys
Didn't get a chance to fiddle some more with the engine today, hoping tomorrow morning I get some time.
5 hours ago, altezzaclub said:"Before I filmed that clip, I balanced carb butterflies and reset the baseline tune. "
But the clip showed no hose on the barb in the inlet manifold, so that air leak would make it run terribly.
As a quick check, run it with the hose set up as normal for the brake booster/PCV, then pop the hose off and put your thumb over the hole, or anything to block it. See if the motor runs the same, which it should unless there is a leak in the booster/PCV.
Don't forget there are several different distributors on these engines, some with adv/retard knobs, some without, some large and some smaller.
Ah yes, I did that and it still runs the same.
1 hour ago, Banjo said:As Luca has purchased this manifold new, by the appearance of it; it maybe, that the casting is formed, but you have to drill it out, if you need to use a particular vacuum port.
Have often seen universal alloy manifolds new, with more vacuum ports that you can use; all blocked off, so you drill out the one most conveniently located to where the vacuum hoses are in the engine bay.
Finding it hard to believe it would run, as well as the video indicated, if it was wide open, as it first appears.
That size vacuum connection could only be utilised for a brake booster me thinks ?
Cheers Banjo
Yes, this manifold looks new but is used. The vacuum connection is for the brake booster. I have a T-piece between the intake manifold and the booster that splits the line into the PCV value. Just checked, but the hole is drilled out also.
Will bring some more information to the table tomorrow.
KInd regards
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Hi Banjo! Thanks for your reply
10 hours ago, Banjo said:7. Place your timing light pickup clamp, around this wire in 6, with the arrow on the clamp pointing towards the ground end.
Just want to clarify, is the pickup clamp on the timing light the inductive clamp that goes around the spark plug lead?
Ill give this a go this afternoon and see what the story is. Hopefully its good news.
Kind regards
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2 minutes ago, altezzaclub said:
"Whats odd to me, is that shining the timing light on the crank pulley shows the timing line jump around between 0 degrees and 10 degrees on the cam cover. "
Not unusual, slop in the cam chain, slop in the oil pump gear drive to the cam, slop in the dizzy bush holding the shaft.. Try putting the sensor for the light on the HT coil lead, it will flash for all cylinders then. Its always worse when the engine is idling and over-running a touch, worse with hot cams, but vanishes when the engine is pulling on acceleration. Build a home-made dyno so you can check it under load!
It might be better if all Weber throats are working the same and delivering the same amount of fuel and air, so the motor doesn't surge on one cylinder and flip the dizzy weights out to advance it briefly.
What are your thoughts on the fact that it does seem to be at 8 degrees BTDC with the light shining on the crank pulley, but still doesnt act correctly? Before I filmed that clip, I balanced carb butterflies and reset the baseline tune.
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Hi Banjo, sorry! I didn't see your message earlier, we had a wicked storm pass through and I had to rush around to get things inside.
4 hours ago, Banjo said:Did you assemble the timing chain & alignment with the crankshaft pulley; or did others ? If it was you, did you follow the maunual instructions, & pay attention to the alignment, as described in my link, in pictures, in my previous post.
The timing chain and alignment was done by me, the chain was upgraded to a double row. The crankshaft keyway was 90 degrees and all the dots lined up where they should be against the pulley when the engine was at 0 degrees TDC. I thought today that the thrust cam plate was put backwards, but I just checked my photos and it looks like it was correct. If the thrust plate was fitted backwards, would this cause issues such as what I am experiencing?
Or is it impossible to fit the plate backwards and have the cam sprocket spin?
6 hours ago, Banjo said:when the dissy is fully inserted, & the advance / retard protusion on the dissy body is parallel to the block;
I am unsure of what the dizzy advance/retard protusion looks like on the dizzy? I tried to find more information on google but nothing seems helpful.
4 hours ago, Banjo said:Is the cam in the engine standard, or a modified or performance version ?
Standard 5k cam.
I will give it another go tomorrow. Looking forward to getting this right. Thanks again for all your help Banjo and Altezza
Kind regards
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2 hours ago, Banjo said:
Hi Luca,
I understand that this is a great learning curve for you, but understand, that an engine that is not "running correctly", can't necessarily be attributed to one thing, that is "not quite right".
More importantly; this is a 5K engine that has been rebuilt from scratch, with some mods, such as solid camshaft lifters; so everything is initially suspect.
Engines can run, but not well, due to one or more small aspects, being "just not quite right".
example: Just imagine if when the camshaft sprocket was fitted; if the "location pin" was omitted, or the timing chain was out one link.
If I was in Noosa, & could come around to assist you, I'd start right at the beginning.
The first thing I'd do was check the valve/cam timing. This does not require stripping the engine, but may involve say taking the rocker cover off, to watch the valves in detail.
I discovered recently, when I fitted a 5K crankshaft pulley to a 4K motor, that the timing marks are in different places on a 4K & 5K pulley & timing chain cover.
The most important starting point, is that the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley, when lined up with the timing chain cover, is in the correct place. Don't assume if others have assembled the motor, that the crankshaft pulley is in the correct alignment. What it the key had been omitted, & the crankshaft pulley was out any number of degrees. That is your base timing starting point.
The next place I would check, is the cam/valve timing. This involves, removing all spark plug, & rocker cover, (although can be accomplished looking down the oil filler nech with a pen torch), & checking that number 1 cylinder inlet valve fully closes, approximately 90 deg BTDC, or a quarter of a crankshaft turn; before no: 1 piston gets to the TDC (compression stroke), while slowly turning the crankshaft clockwise with a big ring spanner, on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt.
https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/71502-fitting-k-series-camshaft-timing-chain/
This is the most important first step. It has been known, on this forum, that the timing chain & or camshaft sprocket, have not been fitted correctly, & lined up. We have had cases of the "location pin" for the camshaft & it's sprocket, being left out, or has sheared off. We've had the camshaft sprocket chain out one link, as the marks on the sprocket * crankshaft pulley, did not line up when a straight line was drwan through the centre of camshaft & crankshaft.
Once all that is tested, & proves OK, then you can be confident, that when you insert the distributor, that the camshaft is correctly timed.
While you have the rocker cover off, I would also be maybe rechecking the head bolt tensions, & checking the valve to rocker clearances & contact points, as presumably you have had to change the complete rocker gear, as the engine originally had hydraulic valve lifters.
After that basic timing testing & checking, then all the other aspects, like dizzy timing/points/inlet leakage/mainifold gasket/carby butterfly closing & balance can be addressed one by one.
At that stage, a very good instrument, to have fitted to your engine is a simple vacuum gauge. It tells you so much about where you can't see, inside the inlet mainfold tract.
Here is an article & good read from years ago, which includes some salient points, now that you are getting to the "pointy" end of setting advance etc.
https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73377-distributor-vacuum-advance/
Next time, I'm in Noosa, I'll give you a yell, & we'll catch up, as I'm also a great fan of the 5K engine, as being one of the best of the K Series engines.
Cheers Banjo
Hey Banjo!
I'm thinking the best course of action for me is to rip out the engine and check the cam timing again and go through the list as you have stated. The crank keyway and the cam location pin for the cam sprocket are still there, and from memory the cam timing is perfect. However, I don't believe I aligned the camshaft thrust plate with the camshaft pin come to think of it.
I have attempted all of the different ways to set the dizzy, and made sure every step was done perfectly. I gave the carbs a baseline tune also.
Here is a video of where I am currently. https://imgur.com/gallery/qJqkCwF
Whats odd to me, is that shining the timing light on the crank pulley shows the timing line jump around between 0 degrees and 10 degrees on the cam cover. Would this be indicative of the chain slipping?
Also, would the issues I am having with timing be effected by the grounding on the distributor? I have noticed that when the distributor is turned, the plastic bit on the outside of the dizzy that holds the ground in place sometimes sparks on the metal part of the heater hose.
Its becoming more prevalent that the engine must come out to be inspected again. As well, if you are ever in noosa, give me a shout, I love to talk corollas
Kind regards
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Just now, altezzaclub said:
Here we go- The points rubbing block should look like this as you lock the dizzy on 10deg BTDC.
You can see the rotor turns clockwise as per the white arrow, so you have to set the timing by turning the dizzy body anti-clockwise as per the black arrow. If you did it like this I would believe your work, rather than the timing light, so long as the weights are working correctly.
Yes, this is exactly what I have just done. Hurrah! I just need to tune the carbs now and I think we are away
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16 minutes ago, altezzaclub said:
Hang on, I'm confused about 'beginning' and 'end'.
So the rotor turns clockwise, and that would mean the rubbing block of the points touches that red line before it goes over the hump of lobe on the shaft. Is that what you see?
I'm expecting that you had the ignition on, the dizzy loose and turned it back and forth opening the points, then set it as you turned the distributor anti-clockwise and the points just opened, which is when they should spark. The rotor shaft turns clockwise so the distributor has to be turned anti-clockwise when setting it.
So long as the rubbing block ran over that red line before it reached the peak of the lobe. I can't find any pictures to illustrate it, the net is full of electronic 4K dizzies now, and Ebay stars getting famous...
Yes, I was timing it the opposite to what you have described. I was turning the dizzy clockwise instead of anti-clockwise. I think I have it timed correctly now, as the timing line is highlighted at 10 degrees on the pulley (even though it says like 90 degrees on the digital timing light readout) but I believe with my carbs the baseline idle that came with them is messed up. Checking it now
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52 minutes ago, altezzaclub said:
Ah, no vac advance, I couldn't tell from the movie, it looked like a hose as the camera flashed over it. So that's another possible cause gone.
Put the PCV hose back on and see if that makes a difference. Then check the carb tuning.
I see you have an overhead linkage between the carb, so if you undo one arm it makes the carbs independent and you can check that each throttle closes cleanly with a 'click' and then do it up again.
I assume the rotor turns the way you expect? Clockwise, so the 10deg timing as the points open is ahead of the rotor lobe. That puts the rubbing block where the red line is in this image as the points open, not on the other side of the peak.
There is an unlikely chance that the springs & weights are broken, under the points plate. They sit at zero as you set the 10deg by hand, but as soon as you start the engine they fly out to max advance for the timing light. However max advance should be about 40deg, then they hit the stop pin. You could take the points plate out and check underneath that everything is clean, greased and working.
Good luck!
Ill check today if the carb butterflies click. Very sure that they do, but will check.
The rotor does turn clockwise, however, I think I have been setting the points on the beginning of the peak, and not on the ending like in the picture.
Ill check the weights again today. My current suspicion is that I need to move the distributor a few gears and recheck the points.
Regards
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52 minutes ago, altezzaclub said:
It sounds like there is a manifold leak somewhere.
Get some plastic tube about 5mm diam by 400mm long and put one end to your ear while listening to each of the carb throats. They should all sound the same. If they do, move the hose around the inlet & exhaust manifolds gaskets, the head and the exhaust junction & where the carbs go onto the manifold. You will hear a leak very easily.
If the carb throats don't sound the same, it will be the idle screws that need matching and the carbs themselves. The carbs have an adjustment on the linkage between them to open one and close the other. The idle screw is on each throat.
Before you do that, take the linkage off between the carbs and listen to each one shut. The throttle plates should make a distinct clear 'click' as they close, if they don't they are sticking open.
It will never run right without the carbs being balanced.
"When the engine was on the firing stroke of cyl #1, the inlet retracted fully a 1/4 of the pulley diameter before hitting TDC, which I believe is normal. It lined up perfectly on the timing chain cover. "
Yes, I would expect that too. That last 90deg give you the compression.
-The vacuum advance hose is still on, so the manifold is pulling the timing too advanced. Always check timing with no vac advance, just plug the tube. After you have 10deg BTDC you put the tube back on and lower the idle speed to something nice.
-If you mistook the direction the dizzy was turning and had the spark on the wrong side of the rotor shoulder it could be quite far out, although I'm talking 20deg, not 60! I've done that before.
Hmm.. what is the manifold port in this picture for?? Is it open to the engine? A big hole like that will stop it running too.
Let us know how it goes.
There's defiantly a leak. There is a leak from where the exhaust manifold meets the head in the middle. Need to fix with a one piece head gasket and some studs, temporarily added a small amount of sealer. Checked to see if there was a leak around the carbs by spraying some carb cleaner and seeing if the revs increase. No dice, so should be fine there. I will check again with the tube however.
Unsure what you mean about the vacuum advance hose still being on? From my understanding, there isn't a vacuum advance connected. The weber carbs don't have a port for that and there isn't anything coming off the vac advance unit on the dizzy. Let me know if I'm missing anything! Attached is a pic of the engine bay, it is a month old or so, but basically the same as what I am running now:
The port on the intake is for the brake booster. It runs into the brake booster and the pcv valve.
Kind regards
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1 hour ago, Banjo said:
The timing light cannot advance or retard the timing on your engine. That is a physical function, that can only be accomplished by the distributor advance/retard mechanisms; or if you unclamp the dizzy, & rotate it either clockwise or anticlockwise.
Those timing lights, are designed such, that you turn the knob, at idle, until the crankshaft pulley line lines up with the zero/TDC mark on the timing chain cover. The readout on the fancy timing light will then be the advance or retard degrees at idle. Then increase the revs, & the flash should occur, such that the crankshaft pulley timing mark, is strobing earlier/advanced. If your dizzy is out, it is probably only 1 tooth. There are lots of posts on Rollaclub, describing how to move the dissy position, one tooth backwards or forward. It is a bit tricky, as the dizzy rotates slightly, as it is lowered into place. The trick is to ensure the rotor button, is in the correct place & alignment, & doesn't run out of arc. The engine will run, one tooth off; but not well. Everything else being perfect, this is the most critical setting to get the timing right.
I technique I use is to take the dizzy cap off, & place 4 marks around the edge of the dizzy alloy edge, with whiteout, right opposite each spark plug lead post. Then take all four spark plugs out, & turn the engine over by hand, to ensure the "arc of the rotor", is aligned on it's trailing edge, with the white mark/s, at about 10-12 degrees before TDC.
Get that right, & you will be sweet.
Cheers Banjo
I have a strong suspicion that this will fix the problems I am having. Thanks Banjo, I will update you on the happenings next!
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35 minutes ago, Banjo said:
Hi Luca,
The engine cannot be running well, but have timing out by 60 degrees, as you advise. What sort of timing light are you using. Is it a simple one, or one of those where you can adjust the reading forwards or backwards until it lines up with TDC, whereupon , you read then advance off the timing light ? When you "checked cyl #1 is firing via the inlet rocker", was the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley lining up with the zero timing mark on the timing chain cover ?
Assuming that is alright, you could well have the distributor out one or two teeth when it was inserted, into the block. If the dizzy advances automatically, & the rotor arc does not result in the rotor lining up with the spark plug lead post for that cylinder, then all sorts of things can happen.
This is an engine I believe that has been rebuilt, or at least disembled & reassembled. If you are convinced that the crankshaft pulley is installed with the key in the keyway, & with no: 1 cylinder definitely at TDC, then you can be assured at the timing chain & camshaft sprocket have been fitted correctly & aligned, during reassembly.
Other things to look for, are the carbon block & it's tiny spring, in the inside top centre of the dizzy cap. Well known intermittent failure point, once load or revs are increased.
Cheers Banjo
Hi Banjo! Hope everything is well.
Here is a video of the engine at 60 degrees as per my timing light. https://imgur.com/gallery/tDvcryB
I believe my timing light is one where I can advance the timing. Attached is some of the spec sheet. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/193986903358
When the engine was on the firing stroke of cyl #1, the inlet retracted fully a 1/4 of the pulley diameter before hitting TDC, which I believe is normal. It lined up perfectly on the timing chain cover.
How would I go about moving the distributor a few teeth back? Unsure what that would look like.
When the engine was disassembled, I made sure that the timing chain and all its bits were in the correct position. Positive thats all good there thank goodness!
I also do have a new dizzy cap, would you think that would fail?
I should also mention, that the engine does rev hang, and takes a few seconds to return to idle from 3000 rpm. Seems to be no intake leaks, tested with a can of carb cleaner
Kind regards
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Hello again!It has been a few weeks, I spent the last twoish months chasing down clutch related issues with the car and taking some time off. Back at it with some timing issues!The engine runs well however, when using a timing light, it indicates that the car is 60 degrees out of time. Idles fine, but when you give it some revs, it backfires slightly out the carbs sometimes. Try to drive it and give it load, and it will just stall out. The revs also hang, but there aren't any intake leaks. Checked that with some carby cleanerTried to adjust the timing, by rotating the distributor, to get it to 8 degrees and when doing so, it slows and begins to stall around 50-40 degrees.What I have done:firing order is 1342.points gap is around 0.4mmchecked cyl #1 is firing via the inlet rockerturned the crank to 10 degrees BTDC on the cam coverturned ignition on, moved the dizzy back and forth so that the points just sparkwhere ever the points are sparking, set that to cyl #1checked firing order again.Things to note: I have not properly tuned my carbs. The 5k is running the stock 4k dizzy and coil. New cap, leads and NGK BP5EY plugs.What am I missing here?Kind regards
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Can confirm. Every part will bolt on from a 4k to a 5k. Just finished a swap from a 4k to a 5k. Piss easy to swap everything (in retrospective)
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1 hour ago, Banjo said:
I just added one answer to my previous post. The plug in your hand I don't instantly recognise. Does the lead on which this plug is, go back into the main wiring harness ? Is your KE38 an auto or manual ? I listened to your video, & although it doesn't appear to have all the exhaust system connected, as yet; if the timing is out, it is not very much. Do you happen to have a timing light to check it dynamically ?
Cheers Banjo
Hmm. My car is a factory manual, so its definately not any funny auto nonsense. From memory it does go back into the main wiring harness into the dash. I will go investigate this weekend.
I don't have a timing light on me, but its on the list of things to borrow from a friend.
1 hour ago, altezzaclub said:Well done! The way to set timing is to-
Get #1 cyl to TDC by watching the rockers.
Put the crank back to 10deg before TDC. Go back to 20 or 30deg before, then forward to 10deg which takes up the chain slack.
Turn the ignition on and slowly rotate the dizzy against the direction of the rotor travel then forwards until it sparks. You want the points just opening, and the rotor pointing to #1. If the plug leads don't agree, swap them around.
That will give you the coil firing about 10deg BTDC and the car will run fine. Tweak it a bit with a timing light when you have it running.
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The plug I don't recognise either, it looks far too modern for an old Corolla.
Take a multimeter and check the resistance between the motor & the chassis, the alty and the chassis and the chassis to battery negative. They should all be under 5ohms.
Thanks for the timing tips! I will use those.
Yeah, that connection puzzled me as well. I will investigate further.
Cheers for all your help guys!
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32 minutes ago, Banjo said:
Hi Luca,
The little carbon bush that is "spring loaded" in the inside centre/to of the dissy cap, is quite often the problem. The fine spring behind the carbon rubbing bush actually passes the HV current, & can corrode to become very thin, then break..
However, I have had a centre bush fairly recently; collapse altogether, & the engine ran perfectly. Probably because I was using a Hi Volts output coil, which allowed the spark to jump the large gap. Unless the four (4) posts in the dissy cap, are very, very corroded, such that the gap between rotor tip, & 1, 3., 4, & 2 posts in the cap, is very large, it can sometime make the engine run better. The spark will often jump a bigger gap, in "free outside air"; than at the spark plug tip, under compression in the cylinder. This technique was used regularly by racers, in the old days, to increase the HV supplied to the spark plug.
Cheers Banjo
Interesting, I did not know that!
Yes, the 4 posts in the old cap were very, very corroded. Sanding the posts with sandpaper didn't reveal any metal.
Now that the car runs, I'm very keen to start all the smaller items on my checklist.
Did you have any thoughts on the two questions in the post above?
Thanks Banjo!
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Hello guys!
It has been a minute since my last update, lots of things have happened!
I was sick for a week and wasn't able to progress on the car. Got the new cap, fitted it and played around with the timing. It still didn't have any spark at this point. I read somewhere that when the dizzy timing is so off, that the spark can happen between the "points" on the cap and show the symptoms of no spark.
So I set the engine to TDC and played around with the timing, and wouldnt you know it, look what happened.
https://imgur.com/gallery/yqYHoil
I have not set the timing or idle properly yet (or an exhaust for that matter) so it may seem off.
I am also wondering where these connections go? I couldn't remember where the ground grounds and where the other connection goes. Also, how can you tell if the water pump is working?
Cheers, Luca
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On 9/18/2022 at 6:17 PM, altezzaclub said:
That's good, major problem sorted!
Turn the ignition on and take off the dizzy cap. Stick a flatblade screwdriver across the points and open & shut them. You should see a good fat spark.
If you do, stick the lead from the coil near an earth and see if the spark jumps from the coil lead to the car body. Say 3mm gap..
If you don't see a points spark, the problem is prior to them. No ignition current or the points are shorting out etc. Have the points open and check for 12V with a multimeter or test light. No spark or if the spark is weak, it could also be a condenser problem
So, no points spark, chase the 12V supply, chase the points earthing when they shouldn't, change the condenser.
Points spark but no coil spark, maybe the coil is a dud or there's a break/short in a wire. Measure the resistance of the coil circuits.
Yes, electronic ignition is better, but beware the advance curve in the usual electronic dizzies sold is a dog, the car will be slower unless you change the springs under the plate.
Had a go this morning! I purchased a new ignition lead and spark plug leads. The points spark when the ignition is on when moved by a flathead, and so does the ignition lead coming from the coil when held near the chassis. Good news!
I put it all back together, and pulled a spark plug out to check to see if it sparks. Still nothing. I cleaned the rotor up and it looks good, but the cap looks worse for wear. The "metal inlets" where the tip of the rotor passes by are fully corroded. I didn't notice it earlier.
Ordered a new cap and It will be here on monday. I will test it next week!
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wow! This is such an amazingly documented build Banjo! I'm excited to see this fire up and see the difference between standard and an EFI system!
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6 minutes ago, altezzaclub said:
That's good, major problem sorted!
Turn the ignition on and take off the dizzy cap. Stick a flatblade screwdriver across the points and open & shut them. You should see a good fat spark.
If you do, stick the lead from the coil near an earth and see if the spark jumps from the coil lead to the car body. Say 3mm gap..
If you don't see a points spark, the problem is prior to them. No ignition current or the points are shorting out etc. Have the points open and check for 12V with a multimeter or test light. No spark or if the spark is weak, it could also be a condenser problem
So, no points spark, chase the 12V supply, chase the points earthing when they shouldn't, change the condenser.
Points spark but no coil spark, maybe the coil is a dud or there's a break/short in a wire. Measure the resistance of the coil circuits.
Yes, electronic ignition is better, but beware the advance curve in the usual electronic dizzies sold is a dog, the car will be slower unless you change the springs under the plate.
Thanks Altezza!
I will have a go this week! Hopefully I will be able to upload that video of the car running soon!
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On 9/15/2022 at 12:04 PM, Banjo said:
Good news indeed, Luca ! Always a sinking feeling, when you have spent precious bread; on something, like an engine; & then face the thought, you might have bought a lemon.
All good from here on in.
Keep us in the loop.
P.S. where are you located geographically ?
Cheers Banjo
Update!
Gave my battery a good overnight charge, and finished up a few things on the Rolla before cranking it today! It gets oil pressure! Super quick too! Fuel was getting pumped through by the pump, but there is no spark!
Replaced the leads (couldn't find a cap near me in stock) no change! My suspicion is the ignition coil has given up the ghost. Whats the best way to diagnose the spark system?
Side note, is it worth it to move to an electronic distributor system?
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26 minutes ago, Banjo said:
Good news indeed, Luca ! Always a sinking feeling, when you have spent precious bread; on something, like an engine; & then face the thought, you might have bought a lemon.
All good from here on in.
Keep us in the loop.
P.S. where are you located geographically ?
Cheers Banjo
Thanks Banjo!
Yes its a great feeling! Was worried some of the oil lines in the block were corroded away somehow. Thank goodness I am incorrect.
I am currently located in Noosa Heads QLD!
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1 hour ago, altezzaclub said:
"passing through the camshaft bearing journal once every two rotations, of the crankshaft. "
Isn't that clever! So if you slowly turn the crank bit by bit and use the drill there will be a spot where you see oil come out of the rocker feed. Then you can leave the crank alone and assemble the head to pump oil right through the whole rocker system to confirm.
Failing it being the speed of the drill plus the cam restrictor, the only other point is the oil pressure relief valve. ..or a blocked oilway inside the engine. For that it would have been a very sludgy engine to rebuild, although I do remember a Holden FJ wagon that had a rocker seize because the oil was never changed.
We tried to do a compression test with a big drill one time, it didn't work at all and it showed how much grunt 300W of starter really has.
16 hours ago, Banjo said:That's why the distributor is so importantant to the operation of the oil lubrication system. No distributor; then the oil pump cannot be turned.
In motors where I have done away with the distributor altogether, I have used a cut down dissy base, with a cap, purely to drive the oil pump.
Hope you have some good news to tell us tomorrow.
Cheers Banjo
Good news everyone!
Oil comes through the oilway! I slowly turned the crank whilst pumping the pump and eventually I saw oil is going up the oilway! My relief was immense when I saw the oil come through.
I have put the head on and torqued it down to spec. I then spun the oil pump again and wouldn't ya know it, oil comes through to the head! I think my little 5k has oil pressure fellas!
Thanks again for all your help Banjo and Altezzaclub! I would have been very stuck without it! Hopefully when I crank the engine over this weekend, the engine gains oil pressure!
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4 minutes ago, Banjo said:
Hui Luca,
Here is a pic that clearly shows the oil pressure to the head, passing through the camshaft bearing journal once every two rotations, of the crankshaft.
Hope that solves your problem. Just hook up a battery, & turn over the engine. If that is not possible, then drive the oil pump, via your drill & screwdriver blade, & get a second person to slowly turn over the engine with a 17mm ring spanner on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt, until the camshaft holes line up, & you hopefully will witness oil squirting out of the hole you circled, on the block.
Let us know how you go.
Cheers Banjo
Thanks Banjo! Thats a great picture!
I will investigate in the morning!
KE70/AE71 Differential Upgrade options?
in AExx Corolla Discussion
Posted
Thanks altezza!
Looks like the ra60 is the way to go. Seems like the cheapest way to get a t series. That paired with a cusco wont cost me ae86 money. Before I buy i will do some measurements on tarago diffs, as i heard they are a good option.
Cheers!