Banjo
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Posts posted by Banjo
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Hi Daniel,
It's Saturday morning, & although I saw Your latest post yesterday; I just took the time to read right back through your build, from when You first posted, 15-16 months ago. It is a wonderful build, & a beautifully, finished project; with attention to detail, which adds to the quality of the result. You should be very proud of yourself, & trust You have many, many, happy trips & memories, with it, in the future.
Cheers Banjo
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Love your dedication, at something, that takes a lot of time & patience; both of which You've got. Hat's off to You !
Cheers Banjo
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Keep the photos coming ! We love photos. A photo tells a thousand words !
Cheers Banjo
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Welcome aboard Foxxtrott ! I'll bet you didn't figure on getting such a detailed response, as Altezzaclub's advice; in such a short time.
I found his advice excellent, & a good read; & wish a lot of that aftermarket suspension accessories, were available years ago, when everyone on this site (including me), were trying to improve their suspension setups, with swaps from other Toyota vehicles.
You can still do that, if the professional kits, are outside your budget, but many of the swap items, are pretty rare to find at a wreckers these days.
Good luck !
Cheers Banjo
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Yep, You got it. Be very surprised, if it doesn't run significantly better, by just rotating the dissy a little bit anti-clockwise. Get yourself that timing light, & all will be revealed as you see the automatic rpm advance working dynamically.
Keep us updated, with your progress !
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Brayden,
You've done well, & everything you do will help. The timing is out, as if anything; the red mark on the edge of the dissy, should line up with the other end of the brass arc, on the rotor button. The dissy rotor rotates clockwise, looking down from the top. If the engine is started, it will probably run, but as soon as you rev the engine up, & the auto advance kicks in, & causes the ignition, to spark, before the the brass arc on the button is near to the post inside the cap. This is where a timing light is so useful.
You may be lucky, & it is only a case of simply unlocking the bolt into the block, that holds, & stops the dissy from rotating; & then turn the dissy a little anticlockwise. You can do this with the engine running, but it is probably safer to unbolt the clamp as it is in the picture, & rotate the dissy body, until the rotor is pointed towards the other end of the arc. Then get that timing light, & do it dynamically, at night; & you will see the whole auto advance function, in real-time.
Let us know how You go. Clean the area around the crankshaft pulley TDC mark, & paint it with a little white out. It makes it so much easier to see.
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Brayden,
The very first thing you should do, after you have manually turned the the crankshaft over, & have the timing marks lined up, on the crankshaft pulley & zero mark on the timing chain cover; is to lift the dissy cap, & see where the distributor rotor is pointing. If it is pointing towards the distributor cap post with the lead that goes to spark plug no: 4, then rotate the crankshaft another full turn, until the timing marks, line up again. The engine will then be in TDC No: 1 cylinder. Now look at where the arc on the brass tip of the rotor button, & see where it is, in relation to post in the dissy cap post, which is attached to No: 1 spark plug (the one at the front of the engine). We have seen distributors installed one tooth out, when it inserted into the block, to engage with the camshaft gear. We have seen them, where users have then rotated the dissy to get it to run, but when the car is running & the automatic advance kicks in, the rotor arm, will not line up on it's arc, to the post in the dissy cap, & the HV can't jump inside the cap, & you get miss firing. Where are You physically located ? I tried to look at the number plate in your picture of "Alice", but couldn't read it, at the angle the photo was taken.
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Brayden,
Completely concur with Altezzaclub, that the timing light is your best investment, if trouble shooting or setting engine ignition timing. Visually, it allows you to check static timing, at "idle", and automatic advance, as a result in rpm increase at idle. You can also check advance under load, by removing the little rubber hose from the dissy, to the inlet manifold, & suck on it, to produce a vacuum, & watch the timing mark, move accordingly.
The only advice I can suggest, is to completely clean around the timing marks on the timing chain cover, & the little "V" groove in the crankshaft pully, on the rear edge. Paint the grove with a little white paint of "White Out". The crankshaft pulley, can only be fitted in one position, as it has a single keyway.
The only potential problem with the timing marks are; if some one has swapped a 3K or 4K crankshaft pulley, for one from a 5K engine, which has it's timing indent, is a different position; as are the timing marks on the 5K timing chain cover.
Hope You get it sorted, as that is one beautiful Corolla !
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Wil,
Welcome aboard. That might be a big ask ! Any second had one, is probably going to have a short life, & a quick search on the net didn't come up with anything. If you can get hold of the original Toyota P/N, you might have some luck.
Other than that, I can only suggest you look at current waggons with a "protective hosing", for taking wiring into the tailgate. A number of the VW models, including the Passat, appear to have a "wire protection hose", similar to the one in the KE70 waggon.
Good luck !
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Sam,
I'm presuming the engine in the car is a 4K-C maybe ? I can't imagine the previous owner spending all that money on a 3K. The fuel cell, was a bit over the top, but from the pics, the twin carbies look like they have been installed OK. The real big thing, with fitting twin carbies; is whether anything has been done to the head's combustion chambers & inlet & outlet ports ? The K series heads, were never a good flowing head; as number one; they are not cross flow head; & number two; the head inlet & exhaust tracks, could well be improved. My personal opinion, is it's not going to greatly improve the engines performance, by simply fitting twin carbies, unless this is associated with some head work, to improve the air flow in, & exhaust out. However, unless you get that info from the previous owner, the only other way is to remove the head, & take a look.
Any unknown engine, I always like to remove the head as a minimum first up; as it allows you to see first hand, what the state of the valves & their seats are; as well as the state of the bores, & whether there is any movement in the pistons. Again, not knowing what the state, the carbies are in, the first thing would be to remove them, & clean them completely, before trying to tune them. Tuning a single carby is hard enough, but twins can be a bugger, if you haven't got the experience & equipment to balance them etc.
At a very minimum, before You do anything; I would warm the engine up; whip out all the spark plugs, & do a compression test. Even the colour of the spark plug electrodes, give a good indication, of how things are going, inside the cylinders. If you can find out some history of the motor, that would be a really good starting point.
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Sam,
Glad You found the wire. Only other wire that I think that could be, would be a boot illumination light. However, if You already have a boot light, then it is very likely to be the fuel sender. (best drink that coffee, before it gets cold !)
The fuel sender units inside the tank, are notorious, when old; for "wearing out"; as the constant rubbing can wear the fine resistance wire, they are wound with. They are seeming irreplaceable, unless you can find a wrecked Corolla, with a good one still fitted.
I noticed you were lucky to have secured Historic Vehicle number plates with your new acquisition. Does that restrict You in Victoria, to only driving so many klms per month, or similar restrictions ?
I was sent this email this morning for Heritage Plate auction, available here in Australia. Just have a look at some of the bids for these plates. Crazy !
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Sam,
The wire at the fuel guage in the boot area, basically earths, on grounds through the variable resistor, which is the fuel level sender, in the tank.
The guage responds only gradually (damped), so that it is not floating up & down, whilst the fuel is sloshing around in the tank. With the ignition on, have someone sit in the car & watch the fuel guage. A second person should take the wire you've found, & connect it temporarily to a part of the chassis, which is "bare" & clean. If the guage starts to rise, as observed by your helper, you've found the right wire. There shouldn't be any other spare wires in the boot area, if all the tail, stop, indicator & licence plate illumination lights are working. Only hiccup could be if a previous owner has rewired the car.
Let's know how you go.
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Paul,
I've just read Altezzaclub's comments to You, & realised, that your original question was
QuoteAre valve "lash caps" required on a 1992 2TC engine?
It appears to me, that you are advising the the engine had lash-caps fitted, when You purchased it; but now after overhauling the engine, & decking block, & skimming head; You are now concerned as to whether the lash caps should be reinserted, as they may change the valve timing. I would guess, it would only be an issue, if the amount decked from the block; & skimmed from the head, is enough to change the valve timing considerably. As You've adjusted the bores slightly, to take the 30 thou O/S pistons, then that increase in swept cylinder volume, plus block decking & head skimming, would have increased the compression ratio. Have you calculated, or measured the cylinder head volume, to work out the resultant compression ratio after these mods ?
Personally, from what you've advised, I don't think you would have changed the valve timing significantly. You don't say, that You have actually removed the Lash Caps, which I assume have a reasonable thickness in the top cap area.
If you are really concerned, you could always fit a timing disk; remove the spark plugs; & with a dial guage on the valve spring top retainers, take note of the opening & closing angles of all valves.
Personally, I wouldn't remove the Lash Caps. If the engine builder had originally fitted Lash Caps, I would leave them. From what I have read; when lash Caps are used, the lengths of the valve stems are shortened, to accommodate the extra thickness of the Lash Cap, so that valve timing is not significantly altered.
Your engine builder, is your best guide to obtaining the correct answer to your query, but if you would like to pop a couple of "close up", pics, of the valve coils & rockers etc., it might give us a more informed detailed look, at your concern. Good Luck !
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Paul,
That Super 7 is beautiful, & I'm sure is a great performer with the 2TC, because the car is so light. You're making us very jealous !
Toyota red-lined the TC2 at 5500 rpm, from memory, but I'm sure the Fejer Brothers, would have modified the 2TC slightly, if they knew it would be used up to around 7000+ rpm.
As I said in my original post, the Lash Caps are installed to put a wider area, in contact with the cam tip, or the roller; in the cam tip, if one is fitted. This is primarily done, to prevent damage, breakage or bending, of the Stellite valve stems. However, it maybe that the valves were replaced in your engine, at the time the Fejer Brothers produced these classics.
Here is a link, that You may have already read.
Quote
You will notice that their alloy low weight blue rockers, have rollers, but no "Lash Caps" from what I can see. You would assume then, that the valves were of a material, much better than the original Toyota valves.
The 2TC engine was a fairly robust engine, for it's time in history, & some incredible HP was derived from them, especially, if a blower was added.
We'd love to see a few pics, from under the hood. I imagine, the original build by the Fejer Brothers was fairly high class, & of very high standard ?
Please keep in touch !
Cheers Banjo
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Welcome Aboard Paul,
Lash Caps are only really used of very high performance engines with roller rocker arms. They increase the area of the top of the valve stem, & prevent valve tips & rocker damage.
https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/lash-caps-do-you-guys-use-them.35874/
QuoteHardened Stellite Tips are a bummer. They are just waiting to break off. When they break, they usually also take a rocker arm with them at the least, but a pushrod and possibly a lifter can follow that. Of course if you get a lifter then the cam takes a beating too. In other words Stellite tips are bad news and an accident waiting to happen.
Most all if not all Blown Fuelers and Alcohol cars and quite a number of Pro Stockers have done away with them. Reher Morrison, before they quit Pro Stock had already gone back to using lash caps because of the breakage issues of stellite. Several others have gone to the Lash Lock instead and gained reliability but an additional .100 in valve stem length. That is ok though because the Stellite Tips added another .075 to .080 in length too.
At times people use lash caps to help with rocker geometry issues, but most times it is to protect the valve tip. Problem with lash caps is if the valve lash clearance gets looser the lash caps can come off. Not good. Usually they just drop down and go nowhere but the possibility exists they can get lost in the engine. Not Good. With Titanium Valves you do need something though because those suckers aren't cheap. Lash Caps are the cheapest. Lash Locks are the best. With Stainless I let customer decide if it is worth how much to protect those high priced valves. Cheap by comparison but still high priced. I use lash locks usually on any serious engine I do. I am doing one now with stainless valves but it will get lashlocks because of the other benefits from them.
Hope this helps you some.Cheers Banjo
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Hi Daniel,
Welcome aboard ! Glad it worked out ! Did you use the simple thin ones, similar to below . . .
. . . . . . or one of those thicker ones, that sometimes come complete with studs ?
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Sam,
The easiest way to determine, which is which; is to disconnect the rubber hose on the LHS, in the photo, (which is probably the outgoing fuel line) & remove the whole assembly from the tank, by twisting it. This is easy in your situation, as the tank doesn't appear to be fitted to the car. Normally, in Corollas, with the tank vertically in the boot; You have to remove the tank altogether from the boot, to be able to withdraw the fuel pickup & fuel guage assembly, from the tank. Once removed, it will be clear, which is fuel out, return fuel in; & vent connections.
Let's know how You go.
Very neat & original under the bonnet, in your KE55, except for the twin carbies & the oversized battery.
Someone has also paid close attention to "earthing", of engine , chassis, & battery, from what I can see; which is good ! Is that a little "insulator" flap over the top of the battery's +ve terminal, so that it does come in contact with the underside of the bonnet, on a rough road ?
Altezzaclub on here, has always suggested moving the battery location to the opposite side of the engine, down under the coolant overflow bottle, which can be moved elsewhere. Getting the battery down low, close to the "chassis rail", lowers the "centre of gravity"; particularly, when the battery is larger & heavier than standard, as is yours. The only downside is a longer heavy cable is needed, to connect the starter motor, to the battery's +ve terminial. I think it is a good idea, but I just haven't got around to orgainising it, as yet.
Cheers Banjo
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PM sent to You.
Cheers Banjo
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Golf R !
https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/details/faster-2024-volkswagen-golf-r-teased-144309/
Now if money was not a stumbling block; then a big Yes; but at $ 60K - $ 70K, that might hurt a bit.
My son's girlfriend's, whole family are Volkswagen thru & thru, & swear by them.
No one, including me, will put down Volkwagen's reputation for reliability. However, somewhere along the line, way back; pulling a kombi engine; & a Bettle engine out for friends, in a driveway, without the assistance of a vehicle hoist, still reminds me a stiff neck, for a week or so afterwards.
My earliest initiation to Volkswagen, was in Papua New Guinea, where I worked for a while in my late teens & early 20's. I was on contract, but we had to find our own accommodation & transport, although we were paid an allowance. Finding good secondhand cars was an issue, & rust was a problem. I remember one FB Holden, where you watched the road beneath you fly by, below your feet, & that was whilst driving.
In Rabaul in East New Britain, we came across, a fully imported German VW which was, I think; the most basic model they ever made. It had a 27HP engine, when I think the Australia model, was 30HP , at the time. It had the little oval window, at the rear, but it had had a divider in the middle, unlike the then current Australia model. It had no fuel gauge, but when you ran out whilst driving, you kicked a little lever, to the left of the clutch pedal, & the petrol then exited the fuel tank from a second lower pickup point, & got you home.
However, for all the basics; it never broke down. I tell a lie ! Once we broke a fan belt, which is a pretty important item, in an air cooled engine.
We didn't have one, but did use a girls panty hose, that had been left on the back seat, (duno how it got there) & we made it back to town.
Cheers Banjo
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Sob ! Sob ! My 5K engine has just become obsolete !
Toyota To Introduce the INN Engine at 200HP per litre !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGXqA5EvSkI
Meanwhile, I'll just get my 5K to be fully ECU & EFI controlled !
Just about to fit modified camshaft cover back on; & put it all back together.
Cheers Banjo
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Just love it, when a project comes to "fruition", & the road trips get going, under it's tyres !
Well done, & a good thread. I'm sure it will be appreciated by many, over the years on here.
Congrats
Cheers Banjo
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Got a bit side tracked there, with this camshaft sprocket chain advance / retard possibility, but will get back to that later. Most important thing is to get this "flying magnet trigger wheel" installed & running, with my Speeduino & Tuner Studio, on the 5K test bed engine.
However, after finishing my 8mm thick "flying magnet" trigger wheel; I learnt a lesson, that I should have known; that "bigger is not always better". You see, I embedded 36 off 4mm dia. x 25mm lg. rare earth magnets in the disk, only to find when I tested it, that the Hall Effect sensor would not switch off. The magnet poles, facing out along the edge of the disk, were 17mm apart, on a radial edge, of the 200mm diameter aluminium disk; but the magnetic field strength was too strong, to allow the Hall Effect sensor to switch off. One of the reasons I used the 25mm long "rod" magnets, was because there was a large surface area, on the sides, which would provide a large area of Araldite adhesion of the magnets; to the inside of the 27mm deep holes in the aluminium disk.
So back to using my olde 6mm thick 200mm dia. disk, with 36 off 4mm dia. x 6mm long rare earth magnets. Finished it today, & on the bench, it works perfectly.
The trigger north pole, trigger reference magnet, is currently positioned at 270 degrees ATDC.
So all I need to do now, is get the camshaft sprocket front engine cover, back on the engine, & do some serious testing, with the oscilloscope, with the engine running, & then the Speeduino.
Cheers Banjo
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Glad it worked for you ! Many of the aftermarket tachos, require an input signal, that is a 5V DC or 12V DC square wave, frequency signal. Unfortubately, when these after market tachos, are attached to a conventional CB ignition system, they don't like the large spike voltage, that appears at the negative terminal of the ignition coil, every time the primary current in the ignition coil collapses. There are a number of interface circuits & suggestions on the internet, to allow you to use the aftermarket tachos, with a conventional single coil CB ignition system. The reverse also happens, when a modern ECU is added to an older car, where the ECU tacho output is a 5V or 12V DC square wave variable frequency signal. This does have the large spike, which the original tacho in the older car, is expecting. Again, the internet provides a couple of fixes, to reintroduce the collapsing coil current spike, so the cars original tacho, can be utilised. Often this can be as simple as having the ECU tacho signal, switch a driver, that operates/switches on, an ordinary 12V automotive relay; whose collapse will still produce a spike, high enough, to trigger the older cars original tacho.
Cheers Banjo
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Hi Thomas,
Welcome aboard, & plenty of people on here, that would be only too willing, to offer you advice, when necessary.
If you are working to a budget, then I would suggest, that once you get the engine home; that You strip it gradually, & tag everything, so that when you put it back together; in months to come; & that everything is in plastic bags or bottles, clearly marked; particularly nuts & bolts.
Once it is completely stripped, you will be physically able tp inspect things like bores & rings, & big end & main bearing slippers etc. If your 4K happens to be a 4K-U model, You will be in luck; as that variation of the 4K; put out more horsepower, than the regular 4K-C, which had a lot of California compliance gear on it. (hence the "C")
Once you've inspected everything, you'll have a much better idea, of what needs to be done, as a minimum. Then if you budget allows, you can tackle other items like cam grind, performance valve strings, & maybe working the head. Greatest issue in trying to "get more power", from a K Series motor was the head design. Not being cross-flow doesn't help, but the intake & exhaust passages were pretty ordinary, & the engine can be made to perform much better, with port & polish, & removing lips etc, that reduce flow.
My advice is, to take lots of photos, whilst you are stripping it down.
K Series engines are getting pretty olde now, & it could be original, or it may have already had a reco, at sometime in it's life.
You are about to find out.
We look forward to hearing about the teardown, & seeing some pics, as you go.
Cheers Banjo
Thought I was screwed (or maybe I still am). 2 questions
in AExx Corolla Discussion
Posted
5 litres overfill, & being driven 14 miles home, has obviously caused issues. My personal belief, is that the 5 litres overfill, could have well resulted in the crankshaft connecting with the overfilled oil in the sump; which would have it saturating the cylinder walls, below the pistons. Some of this oil would have got past the rings, & foul the spark plugs, which You found to be true, & replaced the spark plugs. However, the greatest damage would be that a of of that excess oil could have splattered the crankcase breathing system, & got back up into the air filter. If the paper air-filter became clogged, it would seriously restrict the amount of air going into the engine.
I'd be changing the air filter element, & maybe the distributor cap. If you have had tracking inside the cap previously, it can create tiny carbon tracks on the inside of the cap, & they will reoccur, unless the cap is replaced. Spark jumping across terminals on the inside of the dissy cap, can be caused by an open circuit spark plug cable or an extra wide spark plug gap; but is more than often caused by the carbon bush in the centre inside of the dissy, either falling out, or the spring behind it breaking.
Once You do find the issue, & get it going properly, I'd be giving the car a good long hard run, on a country road, to bring it back to normal.
Let us know how You go.
Cheers Banjo