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philbey

Tech Moderator
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Posts posted by philbey

  1.  

    5 hours ago, ke70dave said:

    After all these years, it really is the gift that keeps on giving. And to catch out a senior member, what a time to be alive. 

    I saw the same thing and laughed.....

    1 hour ago, Chobis said:

     I would love another KE10 but I can no longer justify the price they are fetching.

    I reckon the market will stall soon enough. The vogue car will move elsewhere, the next 10 years will see the Hyundai excel or the mazda 3s become popular. Or something like that.

    Prices and stupid expectations will dwindle, the time value of money will make them more affordable.

    Funnily enough after a fairly long hiatus, I'm starting to kick the tyres back here again.... 2 kids, a shitload of renovations and quick refurbish on my new hobby, DRZ400's took me out of the loop., so I'm now looking at the warmer months and planning some work on the wagon... finally.

     

    But it's scary that I don't have a CLUE where to buy parts anymore. I didn't even know there was an RC spacebook page! Ebay has gone to the dogs and gumtree does provide me with some gold but it's mainly for DRZ parts!

  2. I actually think the weld on is probably the best option for the front. Perhaps you can't weld, but it would be a straightforward job for a competent welder/fabricator. I suspect you can get it done for a hundred bucks without much trouble and a bit of time spent on the phone.

    The KE20 option doesn't make a huge difference anyway, I think about 40mm? (I wrote the faq haha I forget now) and it's fixed at that.

    As for any other bolt in option - its' just not out there.

     

  3. I'm running a match pair of G's, I think you'll find the non-pollution ones are hard to find.

     

    I got mine running ok at home, but there is very little adjustment (balancing etc) on them. In the end I lucked out, the Dyno tuner in the next suburb has an alfa nut and dellorto guru there. I daily drove the car for 3 years with no issue with the tune. Started first kick and ran like a dream.

     

    68rwkw with a big cam and lots of comp.

  4. why?

     

    Why would you spend a bunch of money to make a 4k block take 5k pistons that wont work with the head that comes with the 4k anyway, and you've spent 3 times more than a 5k anyway...... Plus sacrificing block integrity by machining the shit out of it....

     

    In an effort to actually answer this gentleman's question:

     

    Timing chains and gear - Yes it will fit. 4k ones are better than 5k

    Oil return - Think i can use 4k - Yes you can

    Sump - think i can use 4k? - Yes. 3K ones wont fit.

    Gasket kit - $60 ebay - Head gasket might not work with the bore diameter. Buy a 5K one.

    Valves / Springs / Rockers - Have complete 4k head and 3k head only - Nine times out of ten your 5k is a dished piston. Which means you need the correct head and valves and springs. Best valve springs for a 5K performance setup are probably crow cams 4220s. Forget the bullshit about kingswood springs and glockenspiel retainers etc.

    Push rods - use 4k? You should get a 5k head with 5k rods..

    Timing cover - use 4k? Common to all

    Rocker cover - i can use 4k - Common to all. Early k/2k/3k ones are the nicest looking with less mounts on the top.

    Pulleys - Depends on your water pump. There are 3, possibly 4 different water pump pulleys, so you need to make sure everything matches. This is the last thing you should worry about.

    Thermo and thermo housing - Interchangeable. Depends what inlets/outlets you need for the car, swap your 4k one over for EASY

    oil filter mount (not sure correct name of this) - use 4k? - Same

    Engine mounts - have new 4k - Same

    Intake - lynx manifold and twin su's already have - Same

    Cam - regrind a 4k one or are they different? - Depends on whether you are running hydraulic lifters, they have different grinds. Dumbasses will tell you that you need to go solid, so you will spend your weekends trying to match Mercer Raceabout lifters to Studebacker rocket covers. Don't.

    Alternator- Interchangeable, but depending on the belts and pulleys (see water pump comment) you need to make sure your alternator bracket (top one) and the belt length is correct. Not hard though.

    Distributor - Interchangeable.

    Starter motor - Interchangeable, biggest issue is the headers.

    Flywheel - 5K ones are different. I can't remember why.

    Water pump - See above comments. All are interchangeable, best to just swap pump/pulley/crank pulley/alternator/alternator brackets off your 4K for EASYFUNS

     

    in summary, most stuff will swap over but the head and valvetrain will cause you more grief than is necessary.

     

    5k's are not rare. Both of mine cost me 100 each. full motors in pieces. hold out for a complete one and swap the fruit, or chase down a head to suit your short block

  5. Bushpig

     

    have you actually spoken to an engineer. It's likely that your car only needs to comply to the ADR's current for the year of manufacture. Pre 87 ADR's are typically much less of an issue.

     

    Trumpets inside a plenum shouldn't be an issue. Trumpets with socks also shouldn't be an issue with EFI for a car of that age. The problem will be that your intake noise is too loud for required noise limits

    • Upvote 1
  6. I used one like the link at the top,of the page last week. My mate brought it,around, it was an orrcon branded one, but otherwise identical.

     

    Pretty damn good to use, but you gotta be careful. Because it's not very long, you have to have it right under the car to jack. His jack paces were quite far in. The handle is also spring back to vertical, if you're not careful you could easily dent a door letting go of it.

     

    Other than that it was damn nice. The single roller on the front is wicked and it's a very fast lift. Still heavy though.

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