LittleRedSpirit

Got the new engine all sorted and rwd converted. Its installed and running, just bled the cooling system. Seems just like the old motor so far. Was able to just use the ecu temp sender in the head, instead of the one in the big outflow pipe. The plug reaches perfect and there's plenty of room, unless you want to run a heater. Otherwise its much the same except that the heater plug in the back of the head is a bigger size, seems Toyota ran a different sized hole in there on the other motor. It tapped perfect to an m16 on the first engine, this one needed to be m18. Had to dash over to auto-barn Virginia and buy a cap yesterday to close it up. Every hose clamp I undid was redone with a new Norma clamp. Still have to fix the broken idle controller plug, its taped on. Loctited all the engine mount to block bolts. Used ARP flywheel bolts, pro series 200000psi rated. Re used the spigot bearing and throw out bearings as they were just fine. Did a better job routing and securing the fuel feed and breather lines. Bent it over where its supposed to go and got it into the stock mounts, as I had some of the little rubber spacers saved up from a jdm ae86 that had 8mm feed line. Changed the efi feed hose out as it needed to be longer. Took the rail and injectors out as a set and put them in the current motor. Figured this would make the tune as accurate as possible. Tweaked the front bar to lessen the gappy look created by the shitty front right chassis rail. Pulled the rad support a bit so the headlights lined up better. Depressingly found a 20 cent patch of rust each side coming through in the bay. The classic spot where they always get rusty at the lower inside area of the strut towers. I think once the other motor is built and sitting there at 11:1, I'll have to take this engine out and fix it all properly, tug the rail out, fix the rust, the front lower crossbar is a bit sad also. Not rusty, just flogged and scabby. Car looks 8/10 from the top, and about 4/10 from underneath. It really needs flipping over and going over properly some day. I think that will have to wait till after I buy a house and build a shed though.

Epic.

A few photos that would help people with a 2az conversion.

Pulled the engine today. Ports were very clean. Head was clean and sludge free. Left the trans in the car, and found it much easier than pulling both, all the bellhousing bolts are easy to get to, and the starter just rests to the side. Started rwding the new motor. Fitted the top cover, fuel rail, heater line, and thermostat housing. I think Im going to paint a few things while its apart and re route a couple of things. Only broke one thing, the idle controller plug crumbled in my hand. Its absolutely worth every cent to get an engine leveller. So much safer and easier to remove an engine.

Does anyone have a metal lathe in Brisbane? I have a minor turning job to do to adjust the dimensions of my oil sandwhich plate bolt.

Took a spin up to Bribie Island. Wheel alignment seems good, albeit with wheel slightly to the left, but not annoying and near enough to centre. After mostly around town driving, and the squirt on the highway up to Bribie, it averaged 10.25klm per litre.

and a priceless ae86 halfcut on top...

Left, Trivia, thats Trevs old man scrapping it.

Hahah you bet, she sits in the car when Im tuning, so I guess the answer is yes!

Car handles poorly since being lowered, only in that I can feel excess toe out, and its climbing out of ruts in the road. I think Im just going to adjust it since I cant get to the mechanic this week. Ani is a bout a month older now that shot was a few weeks ago. This is a week or two ago.

Red thing was really good if you wanted to meet lots of new people.

There was another cruise on a rainy foggy day but only three people showed up and it was a really fun one, but not sure if the video is still on youtube but Ive already said too much. There was also that one where des showed up in a falcon wagon and we went up nebo.

The dinner was October 2010, and the cruise was 11/11/2007.

Heres mine

Yes we should, but I dont have enough room without the big black bonnet. To do that with the steel bonnet Id have to make a different adapter plate and pivot the inlet down another 8 degrees. Im most excited about dyno tuning the car again, or at least running it up to see how its going. Driving it the other day, I went tps100 to redline from very low revs, and hit the limiter once not too hard as I shifted, the car pulled hard gear to gear but I sensed the limiter came in a bit low, logs reflected this, as a bit over 6000 the afrs went funny as if on limiter. My limiter is 6700, it seemed to come on at around 6100, so Ill have to inspect my settings and see if its correct. Theres no engine protection that would cause an early rev limit, unless the logs just failed to capture the data and the tacho was reading very low in the dash, which is a possibility, as it falls behind a bit at top revs. Needs more investigation at a test and tune I think. Theres an overtemp and overboost rev limit, but unless the ecu had a momentary high fluctuation that triggered this, I cant really explain it. Its never had an issue before. When you break your weldiing helmets headband and also are a farmer at heart, you logically staple it to a trucker cap.

Fuel consumption is good still. Im almost 300 still a bit above 1/4 left. Used to get about 265 to this point about town. Been online shopping this morning for oil cooler parts. Ive bought a cheap 25 row cooler, since its the same as you can buy everywhere branded or not. I have purchased the mishimoto sandwich plate adapter with 185f (85c) thermostat. Ive also bought the fittings to attach the lines to the plate. I need to get it all installed and design the lines and their routing once its all situated. Saw the MCM ls1 kingswood at Strathpine SCA. Saw myself and my car in the background of the skid factory video about all Japanese classic day. Threw in photo of the relocated fpr. Cool cat came over and put a kamei lip on a tarago.

Kids on Facebook selling gearboxes stood on the bellhousing face. Kids on facebook selling mint k boxes for 350 stood on their end. Bah.

Haven't quite got it where I want it with open loop yet, so I'm not ready to drop it in closed loop and sail off into the sunset. I log every other drive, and run the wideband 24/7. On the previous 2 weekends, ever the tinkerer, I continued to work on things. Fuel system mainly. After hearing a throwaway comment about fuel pressure regs buzzing, and transferring that to the body as vibration if rigid mounted on "the skid factory", I decided it was time to bolt the reg to the front of the motor instead, which I did. Not to stop there, I found a nipple in a vacuum test kit to replace the one that unscrewed and fell out of the reg, which prevented me from using vacuum reference previously. I hooked it up and tested, it was right on spec. I also inspected and rerouted some fuel lines, they could still be neater, but I'm confident now its all had a tonne of heat cycles and its kinda sitting where it sits, I've mounted a few things better and insulated some other things. I've heard too many stories of cars burning up. I also got under the car where the pumps are and wrapped and covered any line that had any proximity to an edge or surface that could, in time compromise the hoses and leak fuel. Not pretty stuff but pretty important. After putting the vac signal back to the fpr, I have had to richen up the first few rows of the map, and it seems the top of the map is a touch richer. I've got a bit of a lean spot at 6percent tps and below. I seem to get one little lean spot about 2300, one about 2700 and one about 2900. Its odd, I'm playing with timing and I've smoothed it out, and it was a bit lean, but its a bugger because it takes about 2 percent tps to maintain light acceleration so you end up in the annoying map a lot. I cant see anything weird in the logs except for fluttering afrs which makes me think its a fuel atomisation thing at low throttle openings and load. Might try to filter map sensor, because the lean jumps seem to correspond with slight increases in manifold vacuum.

Yes I was well impressed with the turnout, a Toyota always wins peoples choice. Not bad for a Mazda show.

Epic update! Are you going to dyno it and bring it to the drags then to set a benchmark?

Had a great Sunday morning at the 7 of Clubs all Japanese Classic show and Shine event. Unlike last year the AE86 was well represented, with stock ADM, Stock JDM, ADM to JDM, UK Spec and modified versions, mine with the 2az and another with a rotary. Notches and hatches, Levins and Truenos. The black ae86 called Loco86, owned by a bloke called Mitch, won the peoples choice (I voted for him too). Great dude with an immaculate adm to jdm conversion. Built by him and his dad.

I dont see where right now, its about where I expected it. I can still tidy up the tune and then go to closed loop fuel control, that will trim it as lean as possible. Off to All Japanese Classic Show and Shine at Earnshaw Road, Banyo today. Swamp garage Steven is on the way to convoy over.

I just conducted some real world economy tests. Around town, driving like on a dyno to get logs, I achieved 10.25km per litre (9.75 litres per 100 km). The previous average was 9.25 km/litre (10.8 l per 100km). Highway. Previous best was 12.25 klm/litre (8.16 litres per 100klm). I just tested it and got 14.1 km per litre (7 litres per 100klm). 10.8 percent better around town. 15.1 percent better on highway. Finally getting the economy I expected to from this car. Its comparing favourably with the Camry the engine comes from, it gets about 14l per 100 in town, and about 7.5 litres per 100 highway.