-
Posts
1102 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
22
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Clapped out
-
-
10 hours ago, altezzaclub said:
You don't want to vent the bonnet? A rearwards facing one right above the carb that sucks air out when you drive and the lets hot air rise and go out when you stop.
I'm working on one for the Evo3 as we suffer heat problems at the radiator from oil cooler and intercooler being in front, and there's no place for hot air to exit around the back of the bonnet. Evos already have vents facing backwards at the front, but with sump guard on its still not enough open area to get good air flow out from the engine bay.
I certainly did think of going down the scoop/ ducting route, and I think it's a great idea although I'm going to brainstorm the thought and hopefully come up with a workable solution with what I have.
-
19 minutes ago, Banjo said:
Tah ! I can now see that alternator tucked down under there. Thanks for the good comments re the TEFBA radiator filter. I'll definitely have to get myself one of those. I've been thinking about it for a while.
Sad about the heat soak issue ! Would worry me that if it's that bad; that the rear cylinders could be running at a pretty high temps, without some recirculation of coolant, from the back of the block. Most piston & rings failures on K Series engines, are on cylinder 4. I have a K series engine here in the workshop, which will atest to that; & it was just stock standard.
My experiments indicated that the removal of the mechanical fan, & using a thermostatically controlled electric fan is the very best option. That mechanical fan steals so much power. The ram effect of air passing through the radiator, only gets impeded by those fans. I'm interested as to where these two hoses go to.
The one that appears to be connected to the front of the sump, appears to be scavenging. Not sure where the water hose to the return side of the water pump is connected to.
I read your comment earlier on in this thread, that you had locked the dissy up. Is this a contstant static ignition advance setting, or is the dissy just providing a trigger to an simple single output ECU, which uses the dizzie, to direct the single coil, to the correct spark plug/cylinder. If so; that could also not assist, in your restarting issues, when the engine is hot. Is the electric fan wired up, so that it runs on, after the engine is switched off ?
Sorry about all the questions, but I'm really interested. Particularly, as you've put so much effeort into it, but there are still some operational "issues".
Cheers Banjo
I should have been a little more detailed with the heat soak issues, my bad, the problem isn't with the engine running hot or outside it's normal operating temperature, the issue lyes with the hot side of the engine, with the heat generated by the turbo, it transfers the heat to the carburettor and associated pipe work due to positioning of the turbo so close to everything.😩 It practically boils the petrol in the fuel bowl once turned off and sitting. I've tried to eliminate the issue by an isolating switch to the fuel pump so I can run it dry of petrol before the engine turns off, seems to help a great deal.
Ah yes, the hose that connects to the front of the sump is the oil drain line from the turbo, the hose from the water pump is the turbo coolant return line, the feed line I've tapped into the top radiator hose water outlet.😃
The distributor side of things is just a standard 5k electronic distributor, I've removed the weights and wired the mechanical advance shut so it's constantly set at 8degrees. Nothing flash here that's for sure.🤣🤣 And in saying that, I've had to run much colder range spark plugs in order for it to run right whilst operating under boost, that certainly wouldn't be helping with hot starts either.😩
And yes, the thermo fan is wired to a temperature switch located in the lower thermostat housing, turns on and off with the ignition.
Cheers.👍
-
8 hours ago, Banjo said:
Really awesome conclusion to a long project, Mate ! (aren't they always) Lot of quality workmanship & a lot of hard work all over; but particularly under the bonnet.
I'm usually not a fan of "black background engine bays"; but on your KE it looks really good; especially with the highlighting of the rocker cover & fabricated inlet tube, in blue, the same as the body colour. I see you removed the mechanical fan, so I'm guessing there is an electric fan hiding down behind the aluminium radiator ?
I'm guessing the master cylinder is original, as there is the bracket attached to the front thereof, to support the mechanical clutch cable. I did a Pajero swap years ago, & I'd forgotten that KE's had that big rectangular master cylinder. When I first looked at the engine bay pick, I thought, "how the hell did He fit the alternator down there under all that ?" I guess the turbo is up high enough, to just clear the alternator ? Battery move to the other side is always a good move, in KEs, but I guess was "compulsory" in your build. Can't remember anyone on here ever using a TEFBA radiator filter. It fits well where you have it. Seeing you've been driving it a bit, has the filter worked for you ?
I was thinking to myself; I wonder if you are a plumber ? Lots of essential plumbing under the hood, but well done; as never easy to get a good result.
Cheers Banjo
Hi banjo, cheers for the kind words and appreciation!!
Yes, I practically done everything myself (with the help from the wife and a great mate) from paint and panel, tinting windows, suspension, mechanical, interior etc just to prove to myself that a budget build could be accomplished. One thing I can't take credit for is the turbo fabrication, I bought the setup already done and just improved on it.
Yes, unfortunately I had to remove the engine fan due to the drain line from the turbo, if I could have kept the original engine fan and shroud, I certainly would have as I find they are way more efficient in keeping engine temps down to a normal level.
The complete braking system is from a ke55 and isn't the native system normally in the early ke30's, don't get me wrong, it's certainly tight in there for a ke engine bay.
I run the tefba filters on all my cars, in my opinion they're Fantastic and do a great job, never had an issue in the last 20+ years using them. They catch crud that I never thought would have been in there.
Na, I'm not a plumber by any means, just a tight arse that doesn't want to spend money.🤣🤣
I've added a few pictures to help explain.
-
C
3 hours ago, parrot said:It looks great! How does it go? I would think the trial and error is always an expectation with anything like this though.
Cheers mate, I really appreciate your comment!👍👍 don't get me wrong, it's no race car, although it's really opened up the little 4k, torque has improved dramatically, revs as it should with no hesitation or miss firing in the top end of the rev range, only issue is heat soak is a major problem, if I drive it anywhere I've gotta keep it parked up for at least an hour once turned off otherwise I've got no hope in starting it.😩😩😩
-
-
On 5/1/2019 at 1:23 PM, Mechanical Sympathy said:
Glad to see this little sedan is finally getting the love.
It's a great shell, that came so close to being scrap.
Ive had to replace part of the passenger side chassis rail, and at least half of the drivers side due to rust, and its had a really hard hit in the rear before as I measured 15mm thick bog in places, although yes, it will see the road and not the scrappers!
On 5/4/2019 at 4:14 PM, kickn5k said:What K are you using? Should s%$t it in with a 4 or 5k. that blown 5k I had made really close to 145hp at the wheels on 11psi. All it had was a blower cam, pot screw adjustment microwreck abacus oh and stupid low comp. The sc12 is probably a bit small for a cammed 1500 too.
Just weld the wastegate shut. Let it have everything and when the turbo grenades itself just chuck a $200 eBay China special that's a touch bigger on it.
Just a stock standard 4k, i'm led to believe its not that long since rebuild although appears to have been caned by the amount of blow by its producing! lol!
On 5/5/2019 at 10:34 AM, Taz_Rx said:With the rate at which those things spool on a 4k, Stu.... I reckon it'll last maybe 2 or 3 boostings hahaha. I can only imagine the wheel speed.
60rwKW is probably an easily achievable goal. I made 70kw at 10psi with the old tdo4l setup on a 4k.
That to me is awesome, i'm not holding my hopes too high as I don't want to be disappointed!! I will upload pictures of the engine when I get a chance to show you guys the mods that someone has made to the sump!!
Cheers for everyones interest!!! Great motivation!!!
- 1
-
Yeah taz,
the motor I'm using is pretty much stock standard, going to lock the dizzy and that's about it really. Obviously I'll throw a set of rings and bearings through it at most!
Kickn5k,
That sounds encouraging, although I will be mega happy with anything 60hp+ at the wheels!😁😁
-
Hi taz,
I'd totally agree with you on that one, it is small, and yes, a ct12. Although it is a budget build and I've got it sitting around doing nothing so might as well use it, the motor I have for this car has everything plumbed for it.
Keep costs down!😂😂😂😂
-
-
-
Hiya fellow rollaclubbers!
I've had a passion for ke30's for almost 20 years now, and thought I'd post up my slow going project!😂😂 I acquired this old girl 5 years ago, after being on chassis stands for that time, it's finally rolling again!
So, the aim for this old girl, recycle and reuse the various shit loads of parts I have in my possession, and keep the build cost to an absolute minimum! This isn't going to be any show winning car, just a tidy driver!
Story so far,
All freshly painted underneath, engine bay!
All new suspension bushes, shocks, springs, wheel bearings, running a 4.3 Borg Warner diff up back!
That's it for now, stay tuned!
- 1
-
if its got flat top pistons, good chance its just a normal chambered head,
cheers!
-
if all else fails, ive got a few good ones here,
cheers!
-
I'm glad they're utilising them still, I guess I'm part of the problem, considering years ago you couldn't get squat for them and dumped them by the truck load, and its good that you guys are still acquiring them!!!
-
Not sure if anyone here still screws around with 4k's in general, is it me or are they drying up? Considering the amount of corollas that used to be on our roads, plus in the vans, and engines imported into the country, i'm finding it difficult to locate almost anything in any condition. I realise they're pushing 40 years old, What are your thoughts? Does anyone know of a mysterious mountain of them that i'm yet to discover? ha ha!
Cheers!
-
I know this sounds lazy, when I had mine, I just took the car to a carby shop, labour cost $400 plus parts (10 years ago), they tuned it perfectly, had power right through the rev range, no fowling of plugs, and never touched the carbies again for as long as I had the car.
Cheers!
- 1
-
Yeah their parts seem good, bought a few things off them in the past, never had an issue.
-
Any updates?
- 1
-
Anything green, don't go for the red stuff as it eats out copper, brass and solder in older cars cooling systems,
cheers!
- 2
-
-
ps, personally I wouldn't polish your head ports, leave them rough so you get better mixture of your air/fuel, been there, done that, better results from being rough,
cheers!
-
Those are bonnet vents, not rear quarter vents,
cheers!
-
Repco pistons don't surprise me that they have cracked, ive built four engines with them in the past, and all four engines had piston problems a few years later,
cheers!
-
Car is gone!
cheers!
Clapped out's flat knacker slapper!
in Rollaclub Rides
Posted · Edited by Clapped out
Cheers for that banjo, as stated above with the scoop/ducting route i guess.😃👍