styler
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Posts posted by styler
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Ok so there was a member request for KE corolla weights from the old "Qld Code of Practice - Light Motor Vehicles"
I have dusted off the old book and taken a few pages regarding the KE rolla weights and some relevant pre/post pages,
https://www.pdf-archive.com/2017/07/11/queensland-code-of-practice-selected-pages/
The unlock: corolla
These selected pages are for engine swaps regarding vehicle weights for both pre - approved swaps and weight based swaps.
Note the page numbers as this is not an extract page after page, its separate relevant pages as needed.
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Don't worry about the rears, do the fronts first if not done already... and then rears are almost just for drift hydro handbrake antics.
Would suggest to convert to ae86 front setup first with brake upgrade for ae86 and then later do t series diff conversion which allows
lsd options and drum to disc options... Suspension options also open up with ae86 fronts / t series rear end for more performance...
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Nice to see the updates rolling in :) With the oil temps you want to keep it hot enough burn off the water so above 100 deg c really but
once you hit around 120 deg c it seems you start to degrade the oil. Keep in mind these would be sender/gauge temps and the oil would vary
in temp internally, ie be a lot hotter say 130 deg or more in some places. I think you also have to consider the viscosity and oil quality as well
as thicker oil and better quality may allow higher readings but 120 deg c gauge should be a good upper limit to start with. There are a lot a articles on
aircraft engines discussing oil temps, there was a graph that every 10 deg c over the specified upper limit degrades the oil life in half which was interesting...
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Stock from factory: (Work in progress, so feel free to add anything...will update/correct as needed)
Car: Caliper: Rotor: Hub: Stub Flange: Backing Plate Bolts: Inner Bearing: Outer Bearing:
ke1x drum 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8
sumito 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8
akebono 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8
ke2x drum 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8
sumito 200x10 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8
akebono 200x10 110x4 85x4 85x4 M8
ke3x sumito 200x10 114.3x4 85x4 85x4 M8
akebono 200x10 114.3x4 85x4 85x4 M8
ke5x girlock 218x10 114.3x4 85x4 85x4 M10x1.25
ke7x girlock 218x12 114.3x4 85x4(3only) 85x4(3 only) M10x1.25
Will have to paste some sort of table... The editor keeps messing up the spacing
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It's hard to tell what people are using after searching countless threads but I am interested to know as well, I seemed to get the following setups out of it...
1. hydro cam, hydro lifter gutted and modified, suitable pushrod, hydro rockers(non adjustable)
2. hydro cam, hydro lifter gutted and modified, suitable pushrod, solid rockers(adjustable)
3. solid cam, solid lifter, suitable pushrod, solid rockers(adjustable)
4. leave the damn hydro's alone
1. The minimal way
Gut the hydro lifter out and modify it to use a suitable pushrod length to the hydro rockers(non adjustable)
2. The halfway conversion
Gut the hydro lifter out and modify it to use a suitable pushrod length to solid rockers(adjustable)
3. The complete conversion
Seems there's 2 types of suitable solid lifter: 5k/3f solid and the other a holden/chev 202 solid. All lifters need to be faced to match the camshaft, ie ground to suit the cam profile.
The pushrods appear to be various length k motor pushrods and datsun a12 pushrods.The rocker gear needs to be the adjustable (solid) type not the non adjustable (hydro).
The main problem seems to be the pushrod length due to different head heights, block heights, skimmed heads, reground cams, machined posts and headgasket thickness all adding up
affecting the pushrod length needed. So no one solution seems to cover all motor builds really, probably best to dummy assemble the motor and then measure up for a set of custom pushrods
to suit rather than try make everything else magically fit the few pushrod lengths available. So one would get a solid cam, solid lifters, solid adjustable rockers and then dummy assemble
the motor, measure pushrod length required and hope one exists or get some made custom to suit. Maybe lighten the solid lifters with a bit of machining as well if needed. That's my theory
so far anyway...
4. No conversion
No work required, just leave them perfectly good hydro's in there
There's 2 oil feed warnings, one for shims if used under the cam towers needing an oil feed hole in them and one for blocking off an oil gallery feed to the original hydro lifters if removed via grubscrew/pin of sorts.
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Yeah you would think to use a suitable solid lifter, get them ground to hydro, use suitable pushrods that keep the same swipe adjustment on
the rockers but not entirely sure if you can run a solid valve train on a hydro cam even with hydro-faced solid lifters to suit though... hmmm
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Nice project, just a little info the k series crossmember is not ideal for mounting the t series motors but you can remount or use
a conversion kit to get the motor and gearbox position and mounting a lot better, if you want it engineered for road use.
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Sounds like a good build, there's a lot of work involved though :)
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I have heard some negative results from your combo, maybe check it out first before installing just to be on the safe side...
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Been done plenty of times, either lowered springs for those factory struts or entire aftermarket / custom coilovers. No point in using another cars springs if they
aren't the exact size / rate / height needed which would be very unusual but not impossible. Make sure they are captive at full droop in the end. Coilovers are a lot
of work and there are no aftermarket ones for ke3x but you can get a 48mm DIY basic kit from HSD, you would need a lot of other stuff to make it work though.
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Well the magic triangle says you gotta have fuel, spark and air to run so if the motor compression is good then it could be one of them...
Just check each system as you go i guess...
Check fuel system: fuel pump, fuel line flow, fuel filters, carby, carby shutoff solenoid, carby screw settings etc
Check ignition system: look at plugs, leads, dizzy advance, dwell angle etc
Check air: Compression test, air filter, vacuum leaks etc
Seems you are onto this already but from your informative post I would say there could be a few things that came to mind...
The vac advance is needed unless you have recurved the dizzy, it pulls much needed advance when needed
You can run a ballast or non ballast system as you please but you need to wire it up correctly though as per the system intended
The carb may have some sort of crap in it or a sticky part not functioning correctly after rebuild
There's two types of vacuum, manifold and ported, they function slightly differently and can cause running problems if disconnected hastily
The shared manifold design can be problematic with sealing due to warped faces, differences in flange thicknesses and proper tightening
That crankcase breather should at least have a air filter on it rather than blocked but better with a pcv system and catch can
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There is one insert that has a very short body, small diameter and shorter stroke, its from an early vw rabbit.
Some of the early mr2 stuff was discontinued when I looked a few years back trying to get inserts. Look up
"short stroke" inserts, which are more common as an aftermarket race listing with dimensions eg trd.
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Be careful, you might need the factory diff width for engineering I believe, check the ncop and talk to an mod plate engineer.
They don't like wheel spacers but a set of hub centric bolt on ones might pass, you will have to check. Another option is to sell that diff
to the AE86 crowd and get a zenki T series with drums, a lot cheaper for the diff and easier to convert.
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You need an evenly split diff from driveshaft flange to drum brake face to suit a xE2x last I looked, that's the tunnel position I believe.
The reason you can't respline the same section is that the splines are rolled onto the axle, so they extend above and below the surface level.
You can't replicate that by cutting. So you need to move up the axle to a bigger step and respline that by cutting into it. The problem is the bigger
step is further up the axle and shortens the axle by too much. The solution is to find a longer axle with a thicker diameter and also which has the
same wheel flange and also a conversion bearing that suits the housing and the axle ID and OD. Happy hunting at the wreckers!
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Well its not closely guarded, its just complicated when it comes to inserts. Especially with the ke2x series.
The inserts have to be the right diameter, length, gland nut and top nut. Then the right extended and
compressed length to suit your ride height stock/lowered. There are only a few inserts that might work
when modified for ke2x and they are not common anyway. The ke2x cannot take 45mm, its slightly smaller,
I will measure them soon and let you know. Look I don't want to dampen your mood but building a set
of proper struts can take a bit of work with ride height, spring rate, travel and the rest, especially coilovers.
I'm going to give you a hint here and ask... if you cannot find inserts for your struts what would you do?
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Those arms above are caltrac bars which may go by a few other names but are essentially traction bars.
To get lower in leaf spring setups you can invert the eye/eyes of the leaf springs and also reset the pack at a lower height.
Remember the car is just a shell with no weight in the back at the moment, once assembled will drop in height as well.
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Great work, love the pics. Have you finished the cage yet? Could be worth your time putting in a main diagonal on the main hoop
for rollovers. Harness bar you asked about could mount between rear stays to allow proper restraint without shoulder roll on impact.
If you search for the Australian CAMS manual it has a few cage designs to work off, maybe have a look for some ideas. :)
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You can change your ignition curve either by recurving the mechanical dizzy which is easy to do for a basic curve or
you can get an aftermarket ignition ecu, lock the dizzy and use an electronic pickup sensor to remap. Both methods
change the ignition curve, one is mechanical and one is electronic. Those aftermarket ignition modules can be used in
the mechanical advance setup to replace points and as a pickup for the ecu setup from what I remember. I would suggest
researching ignition advance, its not rocket science but there's definitely some stuff to learn, ie base timing, advance, total
and "all in" rpm. Then you go to a dizzy shop and ask them if its possible to modify your dizzy to suit. Check out altezzaclubs
writeup on recurving a dizzy and see how much the curve changes.
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There's always that thought that a 4 link or coilover conversion would improve a leaf end which is true in theory but having looked at it
I would recommend a well set up leaf rear end for time and cost but hey not everyone's cup of tea. Check out the the early ford escorts
for the conversion to 4 link and also coilovers, its a common thing for them and it seems to work alright.
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Indeed, the TA22 celica has the correct T50 gearbox ie same as TE27. This early T50 20 spline gearbox uses the second row of bolt holes further back in the xE2x Chassis.
The KE25 and TE27 gearbox crossmembers are different but not by much and can interchange with a small mod, exhuast cutout I think. I have dummy fitted this up and its
spot on last I looked.
There are 3 common T50 in Aus,
Early T50 TA22 20 spline
Mid T50 T18 22 Spline
Late T50 4AG 22 Spline
There are also other differences with the gearboxes between these 3 with shifter housings, clutch slave sides, input bearings etc...
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Look at your ignition curve, is your ignition recurved / remapped?
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Screw in cap for sure, ditch the push in cap. PCV stands for positive crankcase ventilation, basically the PCV system should
suck fumes out via vacuum on the intake manifold. The PCV valve regulates this and should be in good working order, not seized.
Replacing this system with a simple vent to atmosphere catch can with no vacuum or PCV valve is a problem for flow of blowby.
Although I would say its probably more the 40 year old bores needing a overbore/hone to suit but you say compression is good,
whats are the current readings like? Bad Ignition timing may possibly cause abnormal cylinder pressures when firing, food for thought
anyway just another factor in the mix.
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There's 2 common systems as mentioned, this is in layman's terms for buying coils for this discussion so keep that in mind...
The car is always 12v with a 12v battery in both ballast and non ballast systems.
Ballast - 9v coil and a 9v ballast resistor.
This system uses a ballast circuit and an additional bypass circuit when starting the motor.
Bypass circuit (Starting the motor) 12v Battery is under high load under cranking which drops it to 9v so the additional bypass circuit connects the 9v battery to the 9v coil to start the motor.
Ballast circuit (Motor running) 12v Battery runs through the 9v ballast circuit which drops the 12v battery supply to 9v so it doesn't burn out the 9v coil.
(The ballast resistor can be a ceramic block type or a short section of wire type)
Non ballast - 12v coil, no ballast resistor
This system uses only a single circuit for both starting and running.
Single circuit (Starting) 12v Battery under high load dropping it to 9v but the more powerful 12v ignition system can start at 9v and so it does.
Single circuit (Running) 12v Battery runs the higher powered 12v ignition just fine.
(This is because the ignition system is more powerful overall and has no problem starting with the voltage drop on startup)
Now you can probably see that you could upgrade from ballast to non ballast coil quite easily, but upgrading the whole ignition
system as well would be a good idea... There's coils, ignition triggers, distributor re-curving, leads and plugs etc... Just remember
its a system so it needs to all work together, don't want to burn anything out in a hurry! especially those points ;)
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Hmmm sorry to hear that, sand blasting as such is an old term though and generally now is known as media blasting.
There have been many developments in media blasting with the type of media used and "sand blasting" as such uses
a media called garnet which is the new "sandblasting" standard. Also there is soda blasting and many others, just about
anything really from walnuts to glass to steel shot to whatever works for the application.
Now to the tech, with "sandblasting" they now only use garnet media, not beach sand or other silica media. Use someone with some
experience in cars ie with thin sheet metal as they have the skills not to warp big flat sections of sheet steel vs thick steel castings etc.
Those in the know will tell you to do your big flat sections yourself, easy with various sanding tools and they will give it a light once
over with the rest to blend in. The flats sections warp too easily with pressure and heat, they are so thin and generally unsupported.
A possible idea is to use paint stripper on big flat easy to scrape / clean sections with plastic on top to aid the process during stripping.
I have heard that painters won't touch soda blasted cars as the paint doesn't like it too much afterwards, best check first.
Also have heard you have to prime the car literally straight after the blasting with most media as it strips away the passivation layer
if there is one from factory before the etch primer goes on. The moisture in the air will cause surface rust within the hour, even in the time
to transport it to another painter after blasting. Putting a stripped shell on a car rotisserie will get the shell done all over for half the price.
Use gaffa tape / cloth tape over sections you want to avoid being blasted, it works well. Also they can blast bog out but you will have
to redo the bog body work so if its good maybe leave it in there, food for thought anyway. Don't blast sections you can't paint or seal
with cavity wax as they will rust out in no time. Cover them up with panels/screws and tape for smaller sections.
Getting all the media out afterwards is nearly impossible, air compressor and a shop vac at the same time with half a day might do it if
the car is stripped on a rotisserie, it just seems there's always some of it somewhere!
Advice that painters have given me is to use the same brand during the paint process from bog to primer to paint to clear to avoid any
problems with one brand reacting badly with another brand. Oh and cut out rust and replace, there's no real treatment unless it removes it.
Acid dipping is another process they use but it strips out all the seam joins on the car and the sealer so not sure on how to redo that properly.
Good luck with it all... best check first this info was from what I remember a few years back now... hope it helps :)
Qld Code of Practice - Relevant pages Corolla KE
in General Mechanical
Posted
Ok so there was a member request for KE corolla weights from the old "Qld Code of Practice - Light Motor Vehicles"
I have dusted off the old book and taken a few pages regarding the KE rolla weights and some relevant pre/post pages,
https://www.pdf-archive.com/2017/07/11/queensland-code-of-practice-selected-pages/
The unlock: corolla
These selected pages are for engine swaps regarding vehicle weights for both pre - approved swaps and weight based swaps.
Note the page numbers as this is not an extract page after page, its separate relevant pages as needed.