chestikoph1

Got all the bits needed for my fuel system, gotta love speedflow fittings. Also ordered a new Tomei stainless dump pipe from Japan, heaps cheaper than here. Can't wait to get this thing going already.

hi mate i also did one, but i don't know how to link to it. Just check out my threads. Good Luck

Yeah, i thought about just going for a gt2871r or similar, but to get the most out of it i would need bigger injectors, ideally a z32 airflow meter, and a retune of the computer. So its not just a matter of a few hundred dollars, whack on a big turbo and bump up the boost. The t28 that i have is out of a second generation s14 so its a ball bearing model (gt2560r) same as the s15, meant to be one of the most responsive turbos Garret do in that size, and for now i am only after about 300hp. I ended up paying $690 to get it rebuilt, and i am going to go back to the guy that sold me the front cut, to try and recoup some cash. Anyway, one fresh turbo And attached to the engine with braided lines Also put on my new clutch, Exedy Heavy Duty Cushion Button

On a brighter note, the dash conversion is coming along well, heres some pics. Cut off the ends of the 200sx dash shroud. Mark it out on the ke55 facia with a template. Cut it out it out using a dremel or air hacksaw, cut within the lines to leave some room to tidy it up. It should fit in there spot on. Weld it in place front. And back. More to come

Ahhhh so pissed off!!! Was starting to put on the braided turbo line kit onto the car today, pulled the inlet pipe off the compressor housing on the turbo and saw this. When i bought the front cut, i asked the guy "did you check the turbo for shaft play? He assured me yes it was all sweet. He obviously was full of shit, unless it sucked up a bit of crap when he started it for me, before i put it on the trailer. (highly unlikely) Any way, one turbo rebuild i didn't budget for coming up.

"Slowly but surely" Got most of the hydraulic clutch conversion done today, i will post some pics up later in the week if any one wants to see how it was done. Not too hard, just time consuming. Also received some presents in the mail. Earls braided oil and water lines for the turbo Bosch high pressure pump and Bracket Hopefully i can take some time off mid week to get more done, at this pace it's gonna take months!!

Here's a few pictures of the crossmember and mounts in the car.

Productive day today. Redid the gearbox mount, turned out really well, motor and gear box sitting in the car spot on. Mated the s14 mount to the ke55 mount, bolts up to the rear set of holes under the car. Welded a plate underneath to add strength. Finished product looks pretty standard, and super strong.

Well, took a day off work and got some jobs done on the car. Cut the steel plates for the engine mounts ( my new favorite tool, plasma cutter, i like!!) and welded them in. Also did the gearbox mount, but need to redo it. The back end of the box is sitting too low and its making the engine tilt back too much towards the firewall. :) At least the engine not just sitting there on a piece of wood and i can remake the gearbox mount later. I have a couple more bits of plates to weld in under the tabs with holes in them.

Well, update for the week. Had one of those days when you spend all day working, but have bugger all to show for it at the end. |blink| Had to wait a while to get the car on the hoist. Cut the shifter hole further back in the tunnel. (seemed to take all day) And cut out the templates for the engine mounts. Hopefully get them cut out in steel and get them welded in by mid next week. Still have the gearbox mount to do, just deciding whether to adapt the s14 mount and the ke55 mount together. Or just make a new one out of box steel and angle iron, just looks a bit industrial that way. Anyway at least i can work on the dash at home during the week.

Cheers for the photo Taz_Rx I've been checking out some after market dump pipes, (some of the brand name ones are ridiculously expensive, like $500 plus for Tomie one :jamie:) When i find one at a reasonable price, i will cut the flange off, extend the dump pipe past the idler arm and then weld the flange back on. Hopefully it wont make it too low. In the mean time i have started to retro fit the 200sx dash to the ke55 one. I am going to use the main cluster, and it also came with a separate three gauge cluster with a charge, oil pressure, and boost gauge. Almost identical to Marty K, but not so jazzy. Will post pictures soon.

Thanks mate, things will be moving along steadily, (i hope) i am only working on the car on fridays, the workshop where it is at, is closed on the weekend and i work every other day. But its good, i get to use my mates workshop for free, do most of the work my self, and get help with all the things that need more than one person. Once the engines in properly, i can chuck it on stands, rip the diff out and send it away with the r31 diff i got, to get shortened.

This is how close the dump pipe is. How does this compare to all the guys on here who have done the same conversion?

Engines in!!!! :) Well its only sitting in place, haven't welded in the engine mounts yet. Fits in very well, the only place where it seems tight is the dump pipe near the idler arm bracket, like almost touching, so i am hoping an aftermarket dump pipe gives me better clearance, and more horses. Hears some pics, enjoy.

Small update Corolla engine bay is empty, and getting the crossmember prepped for the SR20. Has any one made the top radiator support panel removable on a ke55 like a Ke35?

Check out how much wiring there was in this thing!! Hopefully i will lose half of it, all the crap like the aircon and other electrics which i don't need. And the engine looks heaps better without all the power steering and aircon compressor. Should go well, the later model sr20det runs a t28 ball bearing turbo , that with a few other mods should see 250hp easy.

Hi guys Been a few months of doing nothing on the car, then starting an engine build on a 2 litre Cosworth turbo for it. But got offered good money for the cossy head, so i sold that and bought a s14 series 2 front cut, so looks like i will be going sr20 turbo instead. Would have loved to have run the cosworth but it was going cost about 7 grand to build up, even with running 2 litre pinto bottom end. But anyway at least there is progress, as it stands the front cut has been stripped of the engine and all the other goodies that i will use from it. Heres some pics.

Hey, i have done this before What i did was get the end of a tape measure (the bit shaped like an L) and slot it behind the mirror and pull. My mirror glass was sikafexed in place with few blobs on each corner. Hope that helps

Rhys the rims look good mate, suit it well.

keeping the 4k? Definatly going to get rid of the 4k. I have couple of options. SR20det, its popular and relativley cheap and has been done before with proven results. The other is bloody expensive, European, about the same size physically, but regarded as one of the most powerfull 2 litre turbo, or naturally aspirated engines made. Can you guys guess :hmm: But i have to do a bit more research, i have'nt seen it done before , i think it may be a first if it works and if i can get one cheap of the guy i know. ( with the financial crisis and all, he may get desperate for some cash. )

No there is no rebound from the car, ( i hope we are talking about the same thing) the body on the short stroke version TRD is quite short, so with the car standing normally there is still about 3 inches of downward travel left in the shockie, and about 3 inches upward travel (shock absorber rebound) The car would bottom out on the bumpstops before the shock absorber fully compressed, and even then there is still about an inch left. Here is a pic of the rear for you hope it helps.

Well i have had a chance to take it for a run, and it handles extremely well, really firm without being bone jarring. The front Bilsteins are not adjustable, but their valved at about 370lb with springs to match. The rear TRD shocks are set on the mid setting 4 of 8 (could go heavier, but fine for daily road duties) The only annoying thing is the sloppy steering " bloody steering boxes" Here is some pics of how it now stands.

You can't really notice that only some of the guard has been done You could do all of it but its not needed. By keeping some of it unrolled it helps retain the guards shape. $150 is hell cheap, from memory mine cost about $400 and thats at wholesale, must be better quality (i hope)

Thanks mate I bought the roller ages ago from a panel beating tools supplier with the intention of making some extra cash but lost interest and ive only done my own cars since then.

the extra leaf and the reset cost $180 thats with me taking out and fitting the springs,but its a peice of piss job and minimal tools required