parrot

That's slightly weird, but I don't mind it.

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3519243.m570.l1313&_nkw=corolla+1967+brake&_sacat=0

Crikey. Longest thread in the history of rollaclub! I think best bet is US ebay. They are on yahoo, but for bazillions. The master cylinders however come up extremely rarely. I'd look at getting that rebuilt/resleeved

I think you will find Phil’s rotaries sells them. Pattern parts. Google them.

Black. Seriously, leave a note on it and ask the owner. Looks like it was done with a rattle can. And it’s an Astra

The story is an old one, and tantalising! I sometimes wonder if the various guys on ebay from Cyprus are sneaking in and grabbing spares off the shelves of the service departments!

I don't. but the phrase, "already removed" worries me. Hopefully you have access to the donor. Crucially you need the appropriate idle up circuit for the wiring. I would guess that the wiring might already be there in your car (not a given) for simple ease of upgrade at the dealer. You need to be sure you have the appropriate vsv and i think the piping to the the vacuum source telling the car the aircon has been switched on

Lots of work stripping the paint in the engine bay. The white house paint very tenacious. Fair amount of surface rust to deal with but grinding it back for eventual rust converter treatment. Had a really good look at the air box for the heater intake, and managed to find a hole through into the cabin. Initially I was thinking I could get to it from under the dash, but then noticed another hole at the other end. This car is a keeper so had to be done properly, so out with the spot weld drills. First the interior needed to come out including the original carpets and coco fibre underlay insulation. And the seats which are absolutely perfect. Can’t risk them catching fire with all the cutting and welding. A bit of work to clean it all up, but fortunately it is looking very good from underneath other than those two holes. Now it’s out, I’m very glad i took it out.

Factory SL goodness Fun day stripping out engine bay in prep for paint stripping. There’s a fair amount of White House paint in there. And of course the usual non metric bolt in a barely accessible location holding up the exhaust.

Hmm. I’ll have to hunt that thread down

Got the K block back from the machinist and checking it over before assembly. This was the motor that would run ok at idle and then struggle once warmed up. Had thought cracked piston but they looked ok. Clearing out the rust and scale build up and noticed the cooling channel between cylinder 3 and 4 was non existent. after about an hour working away with a screwdriver, scraper and hammer I managed to break through the buildup of solid crud. Have since cleared it all the way. I wonder if this could have explained the issue. Anyway new pistons with a bore, and some other things. Should hopefully go alright.

Well I prefer the cream colour and reckon it complements the blue car, but I have a KE15 so I’m biased. This guy sells very good aftermarket copies made for him. https://www.koromoheritage.com/shop/cars/corolla-sprinter/corolla-e10?start=20

your grille badge is actually for a KE15/17. Only difference is the colour though. Looks fantastic!

The black is more contemporary I reckon. Looking real good

Years back I had a TA22 with a worked 2T. My mate had an identical car except his had a 2TG. He could always pull away from me on the front straight at Calder. Until one day I was pulling away from him. Drove him crazy as he couldn’t work out what new modification I had done. All I had done was removed the plastic fan during the race meeting. End of the day, popped it back on and drove home.

I reckon you will use 10hp driving that fan!

My 2 cents. I don't see what you have gained from putting the smaller radiator in. I would go back to what you had. If you are wedded to the civic radiator. check the radiator height relative to the engine inlet/outlets, and work hard to absolutely ensure all air is bled out of the system. You can't afford to have hose distortion limiting waterflow. Sort that out properly

You may rest assured I am absolutely loving your feed. Please don’t stop. Impatiently waiting on completion of a pool which has meant no access to the garage for months, so I can get on with mine. Today yet another concrete pour and an apparent delay with delivery of the tiles…….. cars looking very forlorn jammed up next to each other

Wasting your time without head work, cam and compression. Fuel economy will deteriorate.

I have to say this is absolutely inspiring as i need to do exactly the same thing on mine. Fantastic ideas.

I had a look on toyodiy. The part number for a 2000 KR42 Townace (RHD) is 22210-06040 Toyodiy allows you to crosscheck the part number, and the only other model with that TB is a Toyota TUV - whatever that is. It is shared whether MTM or ATM That doesn't mean a TB off a different model 7K won't work, but may not be bolt on. And differences may well be modest. What else did a 7K EFI come in?

Oh my. I have to come back to this and concentrate a bit later. Looks like some brilliant work

So my smallest torque wrench is no where near reading that low. Have now got a beam wrench that can read that low on the way. Amused myself removing the equally hard rear transfer case seal instead. The SST picked up years ago off Allan Taylor worked a treat at whipping that out.

Thanks Keith. That manual is far more detailed than what I was looking at and has some excellent stuff I would have missed. The genuine Toyota AE86 and Celica / Carina manual is a bit lacking here. I’ll go out and give it a go

Hi Team I need to replace the oil seal in my 6.7 inch T series diff. How necessary is the SST to remove the companion flange? Any advice would be appreciated. I have the SST for the seal itself. But the SST 09557–22022, or 09557-22021 are NLA I will also need to replace one in another diff, so if there is a specific tool, i'm happy to buy it.