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parrot

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Posts posted by parrot

  1. There are a lot of parts to hunt down for the AE86 aircon and they are old, worn out and expensive. If you can find them. 

    But the upsurge in AE86 prices has people looking to restore to factory.

    If there are modern alternatives in a complete kit you can retrofit I would be doing that. What has your research thrown up so far. 

  2. Surely you can source a replacement original fitment Carb and distributor locally. I think you are going to be chasing your tail forever and need to revert to stock fittings. I expect you know that the U designation relates to emissions. So while the various vacuum lines are superfluous, it may not be happy if you get them wrong. 

  3. Unfortunately 4AGE's are also well known for it.  Especially those without a distributor heat shield.  Suffered it myself on an ae82 twin cam.

    From memory the late 4AC in Australia had a Bosch unit.  Realistically it's never going to be reliable now.

    Best bet to replace it.  If you can have it off the road, consider sending it to a distributor rebuild place like Performance ignition in Melbourne.  It may not be (very) cheap.  Or just try to source a complete distributor somewhere else and hope it isn't affected, and the bearings/seals are OK.  And heat shield that.

     

  4. In a nutshell.  Since you are in the US you are lucky.  As these parts can be sourced locally and pretty cheap.  Buy a local T series rear end out of a TE27 as it is the correct width and is already leaf spring.  TA22 is wider and coil sprung (unless very early.  An early (Zenki) LSD centre will bolt in possibly needing to shave the axles.  If you want to convert to disc brakes that's up to you and you can research what fits.  You may want to pay someone to design a fancy axle location setup if you are really going to have that much power.  There is no such thing as rear struts in this shell. 

    Buy a TE27 pedal box so you have hydraulic clutch to suit the later T50 gearbox.  You can put AE86 derived coilovers in but will need TE27 steering arms to bolt them in.  It will affect your front geometry as the stub axle inclination is different so you need adjustable camber tops to pull the struts in.  Can only do that if you have coilovers as standard springs will hit the strut tower.

    Front crossmember will need to be modified whatever it comes out of.  A 4A engined donor crossmember will be too wide.  Have a look at local Starlets, some of which I think already have rack and pinion, and are narrow, but you will still need to do some fabrication there including modifying the engine mounts to 4A and connecting to your steering column. It all impacts steering geometry and is more complicated than it might seem.

    A tail shaft will need to be custom made as anyhing factory fitment will be too long.

    I disagree with KE70Dave about the wiring to the ECU.  To get it all running properly is complicated and will directly impact the driveability and practicality of the car.  If going any bigger than 270 duration cams, or fitting ITB's as you say, will require an aftermarket ECU.  Not sure what smog rules are in California now but you may want to look at that first.  A lot of people build cars to 95% completion, then sell them because they can't sort out the engine management properly.  In a standard AE86, there are three seperate looms, engine, dash and body.  If they are incomplete or not talking to each other, the car turns into a pig.

    Any fuel setup is going to be fully custom with the items you mentioned.  The fabricator can work that out.

     

    It's going to cost you a LOT of money if someone else is doing it.

  5. On the school run there was a guy who dropped his kid off in the Lambo.  Problem was you had to drive in and out through a garage area and the stupid car was so wide he would get stuck and hold everyone up as no one could get past going the other way.

    The joys of Eastern suburbs private schools.  Thank god that's no more.  Now they drive themselves everywhere.

  6. Hi Tony. A bit of searching around suggests Monroe MG991 inserts appear to suit a 60series Cressida. 
     

    Always need to be a bit wary of where the google rabbit hole takes you, but may explain your fitment issue. Are you sure someone hasn’t put some different struts in the car?  
     

    if yes, it doesn’t solve your supply issue, but at least you have a better idea of what you are looking for. 

  7. BTW, those brackets that bolt to the block look like T engine brackets.  If you do have swaybar issues, you can probably solve that using a TA22 swaybar.

    This is a picture comparing crossmembers for a KE25 and a TE27.  Basically the same car with either a K engine or a T engine.

    Gives some idea of the differences between the two

     

    crossmembers.jpeg

  8. The main engine mounts are welded to the crossmember, then there are engine mounts bolted to the engine block.

    The mounts welded to the crossmember are spaced quite differently between a K engine and a T engine.  There is a difference between fitting the engine into the engine bay, and fitting it correctly.

    It's very likely that the original crossmember to suit a K engine is still in the car, and they have worked around it at the engine block end.  That is always going to be a compromise.  You need to find out what they did to fit the engine in.

    If it is a K crossmember, have they cut and rewelded the mounts?  Your options are to redo that properly, or source a T crossmember for this car from either Japan or the USA as we never had T engines in these cars in Australia (edit: I see you are from Philippines).  I would source the correct crossmember.  Not as expensive as it might seem, and probably cheaper than trying to work around using a K crossmember.

    It probably had a different sway bar with T engine also, so you may need to work around that or the sump may sit on the swaybar.  It's been done lots of time so isn't rocket science.  Look through the build threads as there is likely the very same issue outlined there.

  9. Most of the Thai sellers on eBay have their own websites off Ebay and may be willing to ship to you, but note the quality of the repro stuff is a bit variable. 
     

    A good option is yahoo Japan. Often cheaper than you would think, and often the only place you will find things. But you will need to buy through one of the sites that enable you to search in English and bid in real-time. I’ve been doing that for years and have a great broker here in Australia that ships larger items by container. Even a whole shell on one occasion. You will need to do some searching for that. 
     

    I also buy a lot of genuine parts using a wholesaler, Impex Japan. You need to know part numbers though. They are surprisingly cheap compared to my local Toyota dealer. Of course, many parts I try to buy are no longer available, but I’m often surprised by what I can get. 
     

     

  10. The KE70 K50 rebuild is detailed in the T18 Chassis repair manual Pub No. 36018E

    They come up on ebay from time to time.

    Yes you do need the ball, and I've got to say (politely) if you are not aware of that you probably should be leaving the rebuild to a professional.

    Edit, actually this manual should also be the one.  Pub No. 98389.  There are a few on ebay if you search Corolla chassis under Service & Repair manuals

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/304943368881?hash=item47000a8ab1:g:-74AAOSwPfhkY~jF&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4K%2FPo2bVhnBhnrhFv%2FW%2BhsUumxZXJRHHPZ9MxPR6ax6WQDZbusKRCZ064gUZpQrxpvvx5w%2FOw3oQErLWTCP6qGFt7rJdd30%2B8wnRNUxQy8gvqcej4lc8o7W3KosOnbPCb7khFCkfzf3tdBqdKOtwAYhV1A%2FQxZPAPDGOqufkWO%2B%2Fu7CoYRllmURB2Q1RIRv4zbIhCKU5wODYHS%2Fy2CGzFo2lRycsGNjcr7uL7tt%2Fq0X%2BEYVu0%2FqUtDsS7VzJsfmwHGA2HRRPCRJ2wtdW0pRGvAtlM%2FxEcLgo9v6UTpvfRyHV|tkp%3ABk9SR96cvPDRYg

  11. Issue with the AE86 rear end is its width, and being coil sprung. It will need to be cut down and converted to leaves. TE27 diff housings and axles come up often enough on yahoo Japan. I have a spare set of axles waiting for me to pickup from my local buying agent right now as I’m tossing up putting one in the KE15 anyway, and I have a couple of housings. The 6.7 inch T series AE86 LSD centres fit straight into these housings, and if you get the early ‘Zenki’ diff centre, the TE27 axles will too. AE86 GT rear axles have a wider bearing so probably won’t fit the TE27 housing. Anyway, something to think about. There must be part importers in the UK specialising in buying and shipping parts from yahoo Japan. 

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