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parrot

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Posts posted by parrot

  1. I don't. but the phrase, "already removed" worries me.  Hopefully you have access to the donor.

    Crucially you need the appropriate idle up circuit for the wiring.  I would guess that the wiring might already be there in your car (not a given) for simple ease of upgrade at the dealer.  You need to be sure you have the appropriate vsv and i think the piping to the the vacuum source telling the car the aircon has been switched on

  2. Lots of work stripping the paint in the engine bay. The white house paint very tenacious. Fair amount of surface rust to deal with but grinding it back for eventual rust converter treatment. 
     

    1C156734-F417-442C-A6BF-D3A56EAB1F77.jpeg.4b18bafa364b3765e96ce81b46b42004.jpeg

    Had a really good look at the air box for the heater intake, and managed to find a hole through into the cabin. Initially I was thinking I could get to it from under the dash, but then noticed another hole at the other end. This car is a keeper so had to be done properly, so out with the spot weld drills. 

    AF684508-B2B0-4114-B696-C20EA48D03BD.jpeg.f674bea1af01cc832bbdaefa0746c4e8.jpeg

    34306B59-120D-4FD9-A9C7-D11AC96FDD9E.jpeg.8ece2cb20a8a198b0cc70e83acaae93f.jpeg

    First the interior needed to come out including the original carpets and coco fibre  underlay insulation. And the seats which are absolutely perfect. Can’t risk them catching fire with all the cutting and welding. 

    BF3EC1E1-0E16-4B2A-9232-EF987BDC0F34.jpeg.c3420034e57d58eeb3ed6ce88258dc91.jpeg3B7C72D3-F413-4C96-92C3-4EA6C44B51ED.jpeg.96efcfd5ca0b762e86761d36c810a561.jpeg

    A bit of work to clean it all up, but fortunately it is looking very good from underneath other than those two holes. 
     

    Now it’s out, I’m very glad i took it out. 

  3. Got the K block back from the machinist and checking it over before assembly. This was the motor that would run ok at idle and then struggle once warmed up. Had thought cracked piston but they looked ok. Clearing out the rust and scale build up and noticed the cooling channel between cylinder 3 and 4 was non existent. 
     

    77660A23-6E8C-493A-8528-B07739FCA8C3.thumb.jpeg.5a6c8c6dfbdf8281daae3b30ddf0ea48.jpeg
     

    after about an hour working away with a screwdriver, scraper and hammer I managed to break through the buildup of solid crud. Have since cleared it all the way. 
     

    I wonder if this could have explained the issue. Anyway new pistons with a bore, and some other things. Should hopefully go alright. 

  4. Years back I had a TA22 with a worked 2T. My mate had an identical car except his had a 2TG. He could always pull away from me on the front straight at Calder. Until one day I was pulling away from him. Drove him crazy as he couldn’t work out what new modification I had done. All I had done was removed the plastic fan during the race meeting. End of the day, popped it back on and drove home. 

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  5. My 2 cents.  I don't see what you have gained from putting the smaller radiator in.  I would go back to what you had.

    If you are wedded to the civic radiator. check the radiator height relative to the engine inlet/outlets, and work hard to absolutely ensure all air is bled out of the system.  You can't afford to have hose distortion limiting waterflow.  Sort that out properly

  6. You may rest assured I am absolutely loving your feed. Please don’t stop. Impatiently waiting on completion of a pool which has meant no access to the garage for months, so I can get on with mine. Today yet another concrete pour and an apparent delay with delivery of the tiles……..  cars looking very forlorn jammed up next to each other

  7. I had a look on toyodiy.  The part number for a 2000 KR42 Townace (RHD) is 22210-06040

    Toyodiy allows you to crosscheck the part number, and the only other model with that TB is a Toyota TUV - whatever that is.

    It is shared whether MTM or ATM

     

    That doesn't mean a TB off a different model 7K won't work, but may not be bolt on.  And differences may well be modest.  What else did a 7K EFI come in?

  8. So my smallest torque wrench is no where near reading that low.  Have now got a beam wrench that can read that low on the way. 

    Amused myself removing the equally hard rear transfer case seal instead.  The SST picked up years ago off Allan Taylor worked a treat at whipping that out.

  9. Hi Team

    I need to replace the oil seal in my 6.7 inch T series diff. How necessary is the SST to remove the companion flange?

    Any advice would be appreciated. I have the SST for the seal itself.

    But the SST 09557–22022, or 09557-22021 are NLA

    I will also need to replace one in another diff, so if there is a specific tool, i'm happy to buy it.   

     

  10. Toyota tend to use common parts across the range at the time.  The aircon and heater parts have a lot of commonality.  Many cars didn't have A/C, but still had the holes which were simply blocked with a rubber plug which is common across a wide range of Toyota's.   

    if you are going to keep it registered, you need to keep the heater.  Not much to be gained from removing the heater fro a weight perspective either if that's your thinking.  

  11. Classic Japan is in Melbourne!  Run by the Toyota Car club.  Unfortunately not this year, but all should be good for Dec 2022.  And who knows, I might even drive something there for once.

    i'm a huge fan of aircraft museums, but find it immensely frustrating when the exhibits are generally in a darkened environment and usually in gloss paint.

    Moorabbin Air Museum is one shining exception to this, and you can actually touch the exhibits, and some you can even clamber into!

  12. Fond memories of my cromoly, 6 point, non gusseted, bolted in cage in my TA22.

    Thankfully it never got tested out.....

    Mind it would of been 35yrs ago.

     

    We did test out the alloy 6 pointer in my mates Datto 1600 though.  Weirdest feeling trying to work out which way is up

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