Tiger
Audiophile
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Posts posted by Tiger
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Router out some 4" mounting rings (or jigsaw VERY carefully) and you'd be better off putting the tweeter in the same spot. Buy some dowels, cut them to mount your mounting rings on the desired angle and you have 2 choices.... builders bog and MDF.... or fibreglass the kicks into shape :)
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Hi dbr11k.... questions for you are the following...
1) Are you down a f/glass tyrewheel enclosure?
2) What are the make/model of these subs?
3) Are they DVC?
4) What power you going to feed them (RMS)?
5) What sound do you want from this enclosure? What music do you listen to?
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Cheers for your feedback and input, Onikage :)
Muchly appreciated :paw:
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^^^^ good suggestions there.
This had the Fujitsu Ten head unit and was quite the friendly conversion. :)
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Thanks :)
Seriously, the brackets bolted straight to the JVC head unit sides. You may have to try various hole positions. If not.. I'd look at getting some alumimium and making custom brackets.
What head unit have you got?
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.... or you could rip the vinyl off the pod, play around with the shape (via some more fibreglass) and re-wrap in vinyl... :)
My 2 cents
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Now you have two options here. As you have access to the wiring, you can either extend your wiring down to under the vents (where your "storage space" is) and you can accodomate a double DIN unit with your own brackets. Since we have a normal single DIN player, we'll stick to the factory location.
I wanted to source me a decent earthing point, so, out comes the $3 Jaycar testlight and I wired up to the battery positive terminal and where the storage space is, I removed that compartment out and found the following:
A solid earth point! :paw: Drill into this and anchor the earth with a small nut and bolt (otherwise, a self tapper will do, just don't make it a habit!)
OK, the factory wiring loom for the stereo. 2 plugs you'll find. One is for the power/accesories and your front speaker wiring, the second plug is your rear speaker provision. (TBC)
Hooked up my test light to the battery negative terminal and got probing around the wiring plugs.
Below you'll find your constant power wire:
and the switched on the ignition to accessories, I probed next to the constant point and there was another live wire. I held the test light there and switched off the ignition... live wire went out. I've found the accessories :D
Excuse the shonky taping below :P
Now... the plug on the left has 2 blue wires (left front speaker) and the 2 yellow wires (right front speaker). The negative wires have a white trace on them. Now, the second plug had green and purple wiring to match the front speakers. These I assume were the rear speakers (but none are currently connected so these are to be confirmed). I merely color coded them back to the standard head unit color wiring (green = rear left, purple = reear right).
Now... to put the unit back into place.
... and WE GOT SOUND! :D
ALWAYS check your lights/indicators/horn after working near the electrics (just incase you made contact on an earth point with a wire and blew a fuse... it's a safe practice to do)
Thanks to markhoppus for allowing me to wire up the head unit for this tutorial.
If there are any other cars that AREN'T on this forum that don't have a wiring diagram (old or new), I'm more than willing to wire up an aftermarket headunit in their car (for the purpose of this forum) WITHOUT charge :) (Maybe a 4 pack of Jack and Cokes... that's the worse case scenario :P haha
I hope this helps all AE92 owners :paw:
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After some inspiration (as I've honestly never worked on them before), I took the drive down to the fellow RC member's place to wire up a CD player in his car. You'll need to excuse the quality of the photographs (and the lack of heatshrink.... I know, I still haven't bought any as yet! :P).
OK... let's get started. I'd always recommend to disconnect the battery before starting ANY work on the electricals of the car. I was naughty and I didn't during this process, but I'm an idiot, don't mind me! haha.
The bottom half of the AE92 dash is to be removed before accessing the other half of the dash that you need to get (to access the factory location). So, the bottom half of the dash have two screws on either side of the steering column and then it pops out where the centre console is.
Removing that console component, you'll need to disconnect the plug that operates the air conditioning switch (I can't remember... somebody correct me if need be here)
... and the cigarette lighter plug
Now.... top part of dash to be removed (intrument cluster surround/radio fascia)
Note in the above pic, the two screws under the head unit...
and in the next pic, the 4 screws directly underneath the dash top....
then the luck last screw that holds the fascia piece in.
Now... you gotta undo the head unit yet! :blinks: hahaha
The standard 2 screws per side via the factory brackets (keep these, as most head units accomodate the holes for these brackets)
Unscrewing these, you'll have your blank canvase to work with :)
Now the fun part, finding the wires :D
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Top work, man :)
I think you'll find that coaxials (in theory) may image a little better than splits, due to the PLD being identical between the midbass/midrange and the tweeter. But splits have the advantage of adjusting crossover points, run them active or passive, position speakers to suit the acoustics of the vehicle, etc...
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Those inverted Fusions would've been interesting to listen to. Were they inverted off the enclosure? Or are they infinite baffle in the boot?
Some very tidy work there too :)
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Damn, I just saw the video of that now! Them 8S are moving air, by the look of it!! AWESOME!! :paw: :2thumbs:
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You couldn't build out the pods to suit the magnet? You don't need to 45 the speakers.... just a slight angle is all they need. How deep are the Alpines?
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An KE Series door has about 10-15 litres in a sedan (about 20 for the coupes) and sealed with a sound deadener and mdf (or whatever means), this still only seals 90% of the door (this is taking into consideration the service holes been filled with MDF cutouts and had a butyl rubber/foil layer placed over it); as there will still be an air gap where the window seal is. Doors are only really sealed up to increase midbass response (which ISN'T overly as critical for placement as what your midrange/tweeters would be.
For sound quality in a vehicle (the world's worst place to implement a sound "image"), most cars benefit from these critical speakers being placed in the kick panels. And these can be a 3" dome midrange or a 4" cone midrange, paired with a tweeter.
Angling the door pods to fit your bigger midbass driver is fine and in a KE70, it won't protude out a great deal; to the point where it effects your driving.
And please... take pics of it and feel free to write up about your discoveries too :) I'd be keen to see/read up on it.
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Yeah... unfortunately the factory "free-air" or infinite baffle speakers from the hatches sounds like MAJOR A$$! But they were there to make noise in the dash while keeping door pockets on the door trims. Sound quality was FAR from their objectives :P hahaha
And you are MOST welcome, my friend :paw:
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This car has sound.... :D
And a tutorial thread will come up shortly about a getting a head unit into an AE92 :)
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Thanks, man :)
Kind words!
What did make me laugh was getting dinner with this car tonight! I was at a set of lights happily bopping away to some music and these dudes in a Commodore pulled up next to me. Passenger stuck his head out the window and was sitting there getting his (what I think, was a) sub(s) into gear... and I gunned him down with, "Not bad for a car that doesn't have subs, hey? :P" Needless to say.... his jaw dropped and I drove off with a chuckle and some bass! hahaha...
And I did a personal best of 128.9dB Bass Race average and a 133.1dB burp with these 7x10s!!! For infinite baffle (and not sealed)... I am NOT going to complain! hahaha
TEAM NO SUBS FTW!!!! :paw:
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Thanks for posting that, Marc :)
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I can access most brands. So it's not what I can sell, it's more like "you give me a budget and I can do my best to work with that". :)
I ain't going to try and get you $800 speakers if you could only realistically afford $350, so let me know what you're willing to spend, and I'll try and accomodate that.
With regards to making your sub sound better, that's based purely on box design and vehicle type. You have a Fusion CS-SW120 12" sub, I presume? (Green cone one). If so, I could always design a box based on the kind of "job" you want it to do... either get loud? Get low? Get punchy?
For newer speakers, if you're on a budget, you can find value for money out of the
*Fusion CP-CM60 6.5" Splits
*Philips CSP-650 6.5" Splits
(Highly recommended) *Morel Maximo 6 splits
The above speakers won't cost you more than $200.
A little bit higher in price:
*Crescendo Opus 1 or Opus 3 (these speakers have been winning in the sound quality comps here in Australia the last couple of years.
*DLS RS6 speakers (one of the best for under $400 recommended retail pricing)
What I will say is.. well powered front speakers and a solid sub in an enclosure, you won't need a pair of 6x9s. You'll get away with a pair of 6.5" coaxials in the back. You'll have ample bass coming from the sub and enough noise up front.
Just a thought.
And yes... Kingwood are "ebay" Kenwoods.
All boils down to what your can afford. So, give me a budget and I'll steer you in the right direction.
Hope this helps :)
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What amps have you got to run all these?
Usually, I'll argue against 6x9s WITH subs (run a search through this sub forum and you'll see my reasoning for it). Powered hard enough, 6x9s are enough on their own. (The Camry I'm running is firm proof of that. Fair enough, I've got 2 pairs of 7x10s on the rear shelf, but I tell you what... for a car with no sub, it'll give you some decents lows or louds!)
6.5" speakers... splits? Coaxials?
Kickers subs? Any reason your stuck on Kicker? Just out of curiosity, I ask this. That's all.
Also... I will say to NEVER go off MAX power readings. Continuous/nominal power is what you're interested in. RMS Power. I've got Kenwood 10" subs that are 600W Max, but that means bugger all to me. It's 200WRMS, which means thats the day-in day-out power it needs to run. Having said all this, I'd be under the impression you'd want 6x9s with 100WRMS and front 6.5" speakers that are 75WRMS aside?
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For some reason or another, I never made a comment on this pic... hacksaw, crazy man, you are! :D I LOVE IT! haha. The volume from the fronts alone would be insane! :paw:
Has anyone else done any work on door pods? I'll be working on some for the Camry VERY soon, so I'll add to the tutorial shortly :) AND It'll be done without fibreglass :D
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You got a reply :)
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I'd almost say to grab a set of 7x10s in the front doors (after what I've been listening to in the Camry, I'm sold on these for punch! haha) In all seriousness, if you could push the budget a little.. go for a set of Morel Maximo 6 splits. By far the best splits I've heard (with regards to midbass response and these were off the headunit.. no amp!) I think they were going for like $179. Otherwise, if you can source a pair of Jaycar Response Kevlar splits, then get em.
Otherwise... try and win these and I'll pick these up and post them out to you. These speakers rock! They are in my mates car. Bridge your Boss amp to run these... and that's a winning combo :D
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SE Suburbs, hey?
Tell you what... I'm willing to use your car as a tutorial for installing a head unit in an AE92.. how would you feel about that. I'll even do it without charge ;)
4" Splits In Ke70 Kickpanels
in Car Sound
Posted
In all honesty (and in theory) 4" coaxials would work excellent in the kick panels. The beauty of having splits is you can play around with the crossovers to suit your car/musical taste and/or hearing. And I've got a pair of 4" Philips GTM1050 you could have for $50 + postage(they could run off your head unit no problem). They are pretty clean sounding units. They are the "forgotten" Philips range ;)