altezzaclub

Well done! Something to tuck way and remember..

Shouldn't be, that would affect cyls 1 and 2 together. or if there was a manifold leak to number 2 it should run lean. Can you hear it misfiring occasionally on #2? If its electrical then it should miss a cycle completely and you should feel that. If its running rich or oiling up it may not actually misfire until it fouls the plug enough.

IF... KE70 shocks fit, then you can try the Bilsteins I've got lying around here Rob- They're on my Datto 1600 which is not on the road atm, and there is another set lying around somewhere. If KE70s are too long then we should retire to Great Western Wreckers one afternoon... There must be something good down there that will fit.

Seen this? http://www.toymods.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-941.html and ....

How much is everyone talking about when they say "cut springs"?? I took a set out of our manual g'box donor car and put them into our KE70, and they are just fine. There is no problem with them being captive, they ride fine with stock shocks and they lowered the car 25mm front & 35mm rear. They had been cut with a disc grinder and showed no heat distortion. I'm sure they make no difference to the ride, apart from being so slightly stiffer as to be almost un-noticed, unless we load it with 4adults and luggage, which is what manufacturers have to provide for. Looks much better now..

Oil ring broken?? Oil fouling or fuel do you think? OK, leakdown & compressions all the same, so comp rings, head gasket and valves fine, and cam working properly. Plug and lead changed, so they're OK. The dizzy cap might have a tiny crack by No 2, so today will sort that one. Not much else can affect one cylinder and not the next.. Good luck!

My Nissan Wingroad work wagon had a button under the clutch on the 'start' line, so you had to have the clutch depressed to start the car. I can't stand that but it made a nice kill switch when I moved it up under the dash... The lights would all come up but no starter motor unless you held the button down. Hook one up to a dash light switch or the cig lighter or something.

Ah- nice trick! Although I think the fact that sidies don't turn the air 90deg is an inherent advantage in them. I'm going twin SUs as a compromise...

Love it! Very nice! "Great Wall" rear tyres I see.... :jamie:

yeah I assume so.. What do you reckon? 3mm alloy plate cut and drilled, then tig here and there?

Well, if you can't cut these down, how about the $12 Honda ZR plastic stubs guys were using?? http://www.jntperformance.com.au/index_c269035_0.html

Don't even think about mods to the engine until its up and running reliably philthy- those motors push 1350Kg along very nicely as stock and you won't have a ton there I'm sure. Take a look over altezzaclub.org.nz for ideas about the motor- you might find a couple of our guys down Dunedin way.

Could be spigot bearing.. If you push the thrust bearing off the pressure plate by pushing on the arm, does it stop? That would stop the thrust bearing spinning, but leave the spigot running with the gearbox shaft in it. Not much else in there- with the clutch up the input shaft spins in the spigot, usually the thrust spins on the pressure plate (shouldn't do really..) and the input shaft turns the layshaft in the gearbox.. there's oil in box I assume!! I always grease the end of the input shaft where it goes in the spigot, and the splines where the clutch plate runs, and the yoke where it pushes the thrust bearing.

I used this plan- Turning on the light switch powers both relays, and the top one (the 4pole) feeds power through the dip beams and down to earth through the 5pole relay. Flicking the dipswitch changes to highbeam by switching at the 5pole relay.

""The 3RZ-FE is a 2.7 L (2693 cc) I4 version built in Japan. Bore is 95 mm and stroke is 95 mm. Output is 150 hp (112 kW) at 4800 RPM with 177 ft·lbf (240 N·m) of torque at 4000 RPM."" Truck engine... Y'all building a truck boy?? The thought of the vibration from a 2.7L 4cyl should make your sister go weak at the knees... Surely you can find some 1600cc motor that makes 140bhp and weighs a lot less.

It adjusts at the top on the fire wall. You pull it out of the firewall as far as it goes and put the circlip on the last groove that shows. then check that the clutch works, and where it picks up- then move the circlip to a different groove as needed. Ideally you won't have the thrust bearing sitting on the pressure plate all the time, so the gearbox arm should have a few mm of free play. Otherwise it spins the thrust bearing all day until it wears out. My new KE clutch is quite soft, has a long release travel, but is very easy to drive with and control in tight situations like reverse parking uphill.

...and Mr Philbey, the 33% change in deflection I observed agrees neatly with the change in thickness. 13mmdiam is 530sqmm and 15mm diam is 705sqmm, and surprisingly enough 705-530=175, which is a 33% increase. I like it when engineering science works! I'll bolt it on tomorrow night..

I whipped the stock one off and set up a test bench. Screwed down one mount and grabbed a straight-edge to measure from, and loaded a bucket with bricks as a weight. If anyone needs it, I can weigh the bricks... Anyway, the stock bar deflected 30mm from unweighted to weighted, and the Celica one deflected 20mm under the same conditions. Getting round figures suprised me, but they were 30 & 20, not 18 and 32... So I'll let the girls in the family drive it for a day or two without a sway bar then bolt on the Celica one and see if anyone can notice the difference...

Ok, picked up the Celica bar this aftertnoon. It's an exact copy, which suggests the whole rear end will probably fit a KE70. It looked exactly the same, complete with the old style rear-door diff. It was an A60 I think, with the pop-up headlights, but I forgot to check the VIN code. There are a stack of Celicas & Corollas at Great Western in Orange. It is 15mm in diameter, compared to the stock 13mm.

Thanks Rob, I'll let you know how it goes- Do you have a spare head I can borrow for a couple of months?? I want to dummy up the SU carbs and make a filter box... Mind you, we should wander down to the kahnacross anyway... where abouts is it being held?

When we bought the KE70 it rattled every morning until the oil pressure built up. It had some Japanese filter on who's name escapes me. I replaced it with one that had an anti-drain valve in (a circular piece of rubber) and the problem vanished! I reckon it hammered the bearings over the umpteen months it was in there before we bought the car, as it sounds slightly growly in the bearings yet its only done 130,000km since brand new. Maybe its a Toyota thing?

Not only that, will take photos! The bar is bolted to the diff housing, the arms face forward, and it has a semicircular dip in the crosspiece to allow it to go under the diff. That must make the twist along the bar as it goes across the car rather odd. Give me a day or two!

Thnakyou Mr Philbey Sir, I have been wandering around the wreckers today and for $15 I can go and unbolt an early Celica one. The rear end looks identical except it has a 15mm diam sway bar to replace my 13mm stock one. I will put them both on the workbench, fix one and add a weight to the other, then measure the deflection. It should roughly agree with the % increase in stiffness you are just about to calculate for me!! It will be a shitload easier than adapting two together and will take out some understeer I'm sure! The front I plan to leave stock.

Fuzzkill that is an AWESOME writeup! There you have it Reso, its possible and all you have to do is follow the instructions!

It shouldn't be particularly hard, just the ongoing year on year set of unexpected problems that any project goes through trying to fit a large engine in a small car, resulting in a nose-heavy car with lots of torque! I assume the V6 is old enough to have an iron block, so if I were you I would weigh the motor/gearbox and a 4AGE or Honda S2000, and see what the difference is. There is a big difference in handling between the Altezza with its 3SGE 4cyl and the Lexus IS200 with its 6cyl 1GFE. Just depends what you want to do with the finished product.