altezzaclub

"the large one is jammed " How did you try to make it open? Govt emissions regulations of the 1980s meant that manufacturers moved away from manual twin-choke carbs to vacuum operated secondaries or delay diaphrams or other systems that mean they won't open if you just open the throttle wide open. Even revving the engine with no load will not always open them. If you had all the linkages disconnected and it was jammed you could expect corrosion and dirt in the axle bush and around the plate edge, usually from sitting on a bench for a decade. The other thing that jams them is being bent or twisted. Start a new topic for it and give us some photos.

Ah, I didn't know you knew Parrot- "I don't suppose this source is Philip Colina aka pfncolina / dhee / dhee77 / Budi / etc. based in Manila?" Page 2 of this thread.

I'll swap you a Commodore V8 & a fish tank.. Just imagine how worn-out a motor is when its 50years old, and then you find there are no pistons available, or bearings or seals.. You'd be better selling us Filfrederick's one, at least its current.

Hmmm... what did you learn from that knock sensor Banjo?? It has crossed my mind occasionally, but knocking in a non-turbo car is not so serious so I hope I can hear it before its too bad. I think we just get the fast-flame-front knocking from the spark being too early rather than the explosion before the spark plug fires that a turbo can get.

You can build the whole car with a handful of timber shapes and a light hammer, that's how coachbuilders worked. We do similar work building race cars, customising panels in the simplest method. It will be a work of art when the car is finished!

Ah, I see.. The country that's way to the West of Australia.. It may be a case of finding what is at the local wreckers and fitting that. It would be lovely if you found a 4AGE, but all you can do is keep searching the grey imports over there.

Probably at the local wreckers.. How far do you want to travel? Central West NSW? Bathurst.. Dubbo.

Where's the KE55 tank? Behind the back seat? Deep short tank? Quite the opposite of the KE70's one under the boot floor which is large in area but shallow. I'd expect different sender units. The new KE70 one I bought off Ebay only gives half a tank reading, so you can have the top half and run out at halfway, or have a full tank showing half and run out at empty. I don't know where you'd get a specific KE55 one from.

I'm not sure how similar these systems are, they must be about the same age. This is on my early 4AGE motor- Here's the theory- Here's the diagram- Here's what it looks like- and here are the colours on mine. One wire was cut off when I got it. As you can see, the colours don't agree with the diagram, Toyota were busy making a lot of different ignition/ECU systems doing the same work around the early 1980s I think, its always very confusing. I took my tacho off the coil negative. I've never seen electronic ignition on a KE70 so I'm not much help for you I'm afraid.

Looking at those figures I'd be chasing a 20A 250V one! Not enough redundancy built in to their design or component manufacturing, the curse of computer design.

Did your KE30 have aircon to start with?? The plastic vents under the dash are quite different between having it or not, and there's quite a bit of work to do if you have to find those parts and pull out the dash to fit them.

..and the problem was- Chinese relay.. I removed the wire and sealed it. Still, now I know how a cooktop is put together and we don't need more than 3 elements I'm sure! The other talking point flying around for a month has been satellite-linked data-gathering in cars. The public are slowly catching up with the manufacturers who can store everything about your new car as you drive.. speed, location, direction, gear used, rpm, how many people in the car.. Of course the Govts are making this compulsory in some countries, along with a Police-controlled kill switch that will disable your car. The manufacturers will sell the data to the insurance companies and the Govt, so instant speeding fines and change of insurance costs. I'm glad I lived in the 60s-70s, the future will be nothing like then!

Yeah, you're right- I came home last night to find the cooktop wouldn't turn off on one element.. Turn the power on at the wall and it lights up immediately, one of those glass panels that you touch with your fingers to make it work. So I expect I'll disconnect that element and when the next one goes it means new cooktop, its all electronics under there and no-one will want to fix it.. I've always hated those touch controls, and looking up Bunnings last night I see they now option the same cooktop with knobs for control, only an extra $100...

haha! The ABC always holds the telescope up to their blind eye and tells a story of what they want to see! So, currently wind and solar will never make enough electricity to pay for themselves, never mind the increase our electrical usage from electric vehicles, AI computers, and Bitcoin mining. Then again, they stop at sunset most of the days and the batteries to carry us through the night are unaffordable. So, coal will still be king, even as we shift all our manufacturing and our coal off to China so they can send finished goods back. Unless we employ the Chinese to build nuclear stations we won't have them for thirty or forty years, by which time we will be using candles again. As for the actual vehicles, it was just recently shown that driving an electric car to Melb from Sydney and back took way longer and cost way more... no advantage in being electric at all. If they don't catch fire first, they will be boat anchors within a decade as the non-replaceable battery dies, never mind that the insurance is wildly costly, as are the repairs. The second-hand market will be non-existent unless the Govt does ban petrol & diesel, and the next time I see someone driving a Tesla in any way except slow and boring, will be the first! I think the public is slowly waking up, even if the politicians from local Councils to Federal Govt deny it. But the ABC is interested in Musk being the richest person on the planet, believe that new technology will solve all the above problems and somehow reducing our CO2 emissions will change the weather.

Sounds good! They don't have to be 'in' the disc at all, but it would take a mill to make a hole so that they stuck out proud of the edge a mm or so.

So, it it a Hitachi twin-choke downdraft like the Aisan on a corolla?? I thought 1600s had Nikkis, but there's no light in the boatshed so I'm not going to look! You talk about carbs plural, while Datsun 1600s had one carb, like Corollas. What are the sizes of the chokes, the narrowest part of the throats? If its too big on the primary that car won't run well. Datsun have a rod throttle system, so there won't be a quadrant for the cable to act on, that might take some organising. Fuel line may not line up either, but that's not too hard to fix, the big one is obviously the studs in the inlet manifold. It might not be worth the trouble.. If you have the twin SUs off a SSS Datsun though..

That shroud covers a lot of the radiator area, I wonder how it affects air flow itself. Great for sitting at the lights with the fan running, not so good for passive airflow hauling up hills. I suppose robotic welding is now cheaper than some Chinese girl welding it by hand, so the price stays down. Maybe you don't need the shroud at all. We've just fitted a double pass crossflow radiator and fan to the Evo5 tarmac car, no shroud, and to my horror, no way to mount the fan except with 4 zipties through the core. Seems that's acceptable these days, and with the tanks vertical at the sides there was the flimsiest bit of alloy channel top and bottom. Josh welded pins on so it drops into the Evo rubber mounts at the bottom and is clamped down at the top. That system is a vast improvement over bolting rads to the front wall. What size & shape are the magnets? Drill them into the circumference from the side and tack a ring of aluminium over them to hold them in? 200mm diam, say a metre of 0.5mm thick by 8mm wide alloy strap. Even a ring of alloy wire.

"When it does idle too low, holding the choke slightly closed brings it back up. " "This is a valve to admit extra air at hot idle.." They seem to match. Can you disconnect and seal the hot idle compensator line and see if it fixes it.

" it starts up fine when cold but idles high, around 1500rpm, and adjusting the idle speed screw doesn't change anything. " Does it have a separate cold idle screw, working on the choke quadrant? I've never dealt with a 4AC, but that system of one idle screw for cold and a different one for hot is pretty common. It may be the idle jet is blocked, or something is wrong with the hot idle screw system.

...or a lazy website manager who didn't check photos and words..

Now you know why it was in the garage instead of being driven! Put a test meter over the fusible links in the main lines off the battery. If they are OK, start with fuses I suppose. Its just a big check of the wiring, very time-consuming.

If this gets off the ground we're doomed, doomed I tell ya.. If you can’t afford an over-priced unreliable electric car you vill not haff a car at all! “With the internal combustion engine to be consigned to history in the not-too-distant future, recent information has emerged regarding the European Union’s plan to restrict repairs on older vehicles, reports EuroWeekly….Cars experiencing failures in major components such as engines, transmissions, brakes, or steering, and deemed old (potentially around 15 years), will fall under this category. Once labelled as residual, these vehicles would be barred from undergoing significant repairs and would likely be scrapped. The regulation specifies conditions under which a vehicle is deemed technically irreparable or residual. These include extensive damage, such as being cut, welded, burnt, submerged, or exhibiting irreversible technical defects.” https://www.technocracy.news/eu-seeks-rule-to-ban-repairs-on-cars-older-than-15-years/ They fail to see that the environmental cost of keeping my 40yr old Corolla running is far less than building me a new electric car!

T50 short-shift kits exist, there's one on mine, but I don't know who made it as it was on there when I fitted the gearbox. I don't notice it anymore, except for the 'Need for Speed' click-chick sound like a pump-action shotgun.

Well, its good that the advance is much better, but 110psi is pretty bad for an engine. The usual story is to pour a teaspoon of engine oil down a spark plug hole and redo the compression test a couple of minutes later. The theory is that the oil sits on the rings and helps seal them to the bore, so any increase in compression is the result of worn rings being sealed. If it doesn't hit over 150psi (and I reckon that's unlikely!) then the leakage is through the valves being burnt. Ring job, expensive and complicated.. Valve job, simpler and much cheaper. The tricky bit is the amount of oil to put in... enough to flow across the piston (so do it on a warm engine) and get onto the rings, but too much will occupy combustion volume and put the compression readings up anyway. I've never done it, I usually take the head off and grind the valves, and at the same time I can see the lip on the bore and feel the slop in the pistons from worn rings. Do the valve clearances before you ever take a head off, the gaps can wear away until the pushrod starts to hold the valve off the seat and you lose compression. That's the only problem with the inlets, but hot combustion gases going out a tiny gap past an exhaust valve burns the valve and seat away quickly. Certainly 180psi will give you a much more powerful motor than 110psi! The fuel economy should improve now, 52deg is going to help that, 7.0 to 7.5L/100km would be good, and under 7 on a trip. The solution to the plug colour may appear later, its a puzzle..

Yes, that's a much better advance curve, you should have the whole 36deg on by 3500rpm. The K motors will take more advance than that, its just a matter of what fuel you can buy and how much advance you can give it before it starts to lose power or knock. The plug colours are interesting, I don't know why they are in piston pairs like that. I wonder if 2 and 3 have an inlet air leak around the exhaust port in the middle and are running lean? Check the bolt tightness along the manifolds just in case. Is there one of those air pump/pollution lines run into the inlet manifold in the middle? Otherwise it is a richness problem with 1 and 4, even harder to explain! maybe a misfire on 1 and 4 is making them black.