GJM85
-
Posts
1821 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
17
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by GJM85
-
-
Use ke2 inner bearing kp outer bearing.
-
I use a denso 5k electronic dizzy with a Streetfire CDI (MSD's budget line) with a Bosch coil and 1.0 gapped plugs.
Capacitive discharge, multi spark to 3000rpm and rev limiter.
More energy that you'll every need.
-
They make a DGV style one as well.
-
A job done right and all that......
-
Lowering the body to the road, lowers the centre of gravity which does increase the cornering ability but the tie rods(steering arms) and the lower control arms end up on funky upward angles where they were once almost square. This places load on the ball joints of these particular parts which they are not designed to sustain. The steering becomes heavy and the parts deteriorate rapidly. This increases sloppiness in the steering and bump steer.
Roll centre adjusters (RCA's) are spacers used between the strut leg and the lower control arm to correct this problem.
Next you have the issue of increased negative camber, where the top of the front wheels tend to lean inwards. Generally a positive trait on a track car and for the fan boys who love to chew through tyres, but the tread doesn't run squarely on the road, increasing tyre wear on the inside line and decreasing forward traction & braking capacity. Also increases bump steer. You use adjustable camber tops (strut tops) to counter this issue, although most wouldn't consider it one.
Finally you have shock absorbers. Short stroke shocks are required to keep lowered spring trapped inside the strut itself. The standard shock absorbers upward travel is big enough it will allow the lowered spring to fly free of its upper and lower enclosure. These shocks are not generally of the shelf items and extensive part cross referencing is required to find the right shock and then you generally have to modify the strut to fit it.
It's generally illegal to do for Provisional licence holders. It is definitely a lot more complicated than most people expect and the detriments out way the style points 9 times out 10 unless you do the job properly.
Just do the 30mm springs in the front with 35mm RCA's (available through Techno Toy Tuning or others) with standard shocks and get a wheel alignment. Then use inch and a half blocks in the rear with Nolathane or Super Pro bushings. It will be cool.
-
50mm drop is significant and has negative effects on steering geometry without the appropriate counter measures. ie. RCA's and camber tops. It flogs the tie rods, pitman and idler arms, controls arm bushes and the front tyres.
30mm springs and 1&1/2" lowering blocks gives a good balance between stability & steering and doesn't attract as much unwanted attention, which is important for learner burners. And I'd still recommend the RCA's with that.
-
I'm using a 32/36 DGV Weber on an early modified manifold. Never had it dyno'd but it's faster than a Mirage and a twin cam excel. Seat of my pants says its around 80-90hp.
-
My head was done by Yatala Head Worx. 5k 30cc head. Intake is port matched and tapered with some bowl and comp chamber work. Exaust port is stock with the exception of bowl and short radius.
Standard valves with Performance dual springs. 85lb seated. CC'd @ 10.6:1. Using 218/227@50 cam.
-
-
It's likely that a lifter or 2 has collapsed and isn't functioning properly or lifter preload is incorrect.
NB: if you convert to solid lifters you also need to change your camshaft to suit solid lifters.
-
Does the engine run cleanly above idle? Like does it rev?
I believe you got a blocked idle jet. Idle mixture at 2 turns out and idle speed at 1.5 turns in. If its runs when starved of air it could only be fuel starvation.
Float level or idle circuit blockage.
-
It's likely some cross plane, high rpm, low torque thingamajig suited to a momocycle. If it made 150rwhp in a 900kg car it'd be cool.
-
I've heard ford use the same bell housing pattern across the 4 cylinder range for ever. Can't confirm but read that while looking at Zetec motors.
-
I have a kelford 266 duration cam. It works good but only above 2600. I would recommend advancing standard cam by 5 degrees. And see how that goes
That's crazy talk...
-
Did you put the coil wires on the correct posts?
That'll get you every time.
-
which kit did you use? Also any idea if these kits would work with a 6AL MSD?
These kits do work with CD ignitions ignition boxes.
-
Your cam is generally mild in the scheme of things. A 2.5k-5.5k peak is realistic for 260-270 advertised camshafts depending on the LSA. It's likely your engine is performing correctly but your expectations have eclipsed its capabilities.
-
help!!!
With what?
-
This is mine.
-
The MEC coil is a 12v coil so no resistor needed.
-
You want an ignition coil to suit an electronic ignition.
I recommend the Fuelmiser CC215. Replacement part for a large number of makes and models with electronic distributors from the mid 80's to 90's.
35$ on ebay.
Or you could go MSD Blaster, Fireball et if you want to spend more.
I use Bosch MEC723 with Streetfire CD ignition box.
The coil you have will work fine but is designed to be used with points dizzy with no ballast resistor.
-
There was this thing I read about the oil feed for the hydraulic lifters needing to be blocked or restricted when using solid or aftermarket lifters in a 5k, to keep good oil pressure.
Word is, you remove the grub screw on the dizzy side of the block to do this.
I tried to remove the grub from my spare block but she's in good and is now just rounded out.
-
They have worn in pretty good fashion.
-
I can't speak from experience. But they're probably OK today and a pain in the arse tomorrow.
I'd agree with Parrot buy a reco kit and can of carby cleaner. Putting a new carb on an old engine isn't going to get you fantastic results. Especially when it's been made out of recycled bbq trays that washed up on a random south east Asia beach.
Gjm85'S Ke20 Build
in Rollaclub Rides
Posted
Ordered an update.