bruce

Hey Leigh, are you thinking of giving it a paint job, or just touching up the fixes in the body work?

I've fill up mine about a week and a half ago, and I've still got half a tank. Done about 185 km; all city and suburban driving. I mostly catch the bus during the week though, because all day parking in the city is too expensive. Then I go cruising around at night

Malaysian fuel would be the same as everywhere else I reckon. Malaysian traffic conditions might be different to Australias. Australia got more open roads etc. while Malaysian has probably got mostly city type traffic. Perhaps the weather has an effect. I've found that city driving (lots of stops and starts) chews a bit of fuel in my KE30, compared with other cars I've had (from the same era). But if I take it real easy on the highway, I can proabaly get over 600 km on 40L of fuel. There would be better fuel economy with the higher octane fuel, but you have to pay for it. I'm just wondering which fuel is best, for cost per kilometer :jamie:

Hey Tom, Yeah, I saw that RX3 driving around town too. It does grab your attention Bruce

So how come the 4K chews through the fuel, since its only 1290cc? Is it the Aisan carburettor, and poor head gas flow?

Hi Cameron, You could get a Gregorys Corolla service and repair manual, for KE30 (or KE55). In the book it has the torque settings for the bolts. It also has step by step procedures for installation and removal of mechanical parts, like the gearbox. Bruce

There's a picture of a white TE47 on this page (scroll down): http://winterpalace.customer.netspace.net.au/crwd.html Did they only come out in Japan?

off topic: I was wondering that too. When I go to the Database section there is "Articles (sorted by)" but it saids "Coming Soon" When I go to "http://www.rollaclub.com/articles/" I get the forbidden page :lolcry: .

Yeah, a 2 inch tachometer would be good to replace the clock; it would be more useful :lolcry:

I just put a clock in my gauge cluster, since it didn't have one. I could hear it tick, but after a couple of hours it stopped :hmm: . I took it apart to have a look at it. I had 9V battery for the power supply (probably should be 12V). It would start if I turned one of the cogs to get it going, but it kept on stopping. The electric motor seem to be working OK though. The clock kept on getting jammed; one of the components inside, the part which makes the tick noise I think, kept on stopping. I also fiddled with the speed adjustment of the clock to see if that made a difference, which I shouldn't of really done, since its set correctly in the factory :y: . With all the internal clock parts, I didn't know what to do next, so I called around for a clock repairer. Took about 4 or 5 calls to clock repairers around Hobart till I found someone who would attempt to fix it. They said they don't deal with automotive parts. But its a clock, should work the same. The clock repairer was into antique clocks and stuff, and he seemed confident in getting it going. He got it going. He said there were two things that were in need of attention: 1. The electric motor had collected dust over the years, so he cleaned that out. 2. Parts in the clock kept on getting jammed, so he fixed that. He also had the device to set the speed of the clock. He charged me $10 for the job. I've only had the clock in for a few days, and it seems to be keeping the time OK. The clock repairer said it might be out by a minute each week. It was mainly due to age of the clock, getting weared out over the years.

I've just put my old fuel gauge into the new one. But the fuel gauge almost read full. I was driving down the road for 5 minutes, and I looked at the temp gauge, and it was right up at H. For a moment I though I cooked the engine :hmm: . But it would of had to be the gauges. So I kept on driving. The next day I compared the two gauges, looking at the capacitors, diodes, and circuits lines. It appeared to look the same. I then showed it to my girlfriend, and she found that there was a difference. There was an extra pin on one of the connectors, and a slightly different circuit line. So I just used the original ciruit board, and changed over the speedo, and temp gauge. I wanted the new gauge because it had a clock, kilometer counter in the speedo, and a line half way on the temp gauge to mark when the thermostat opens. While I was looking at the speedo, I was trying to get the kilometer counter going. It couldn't reset to zero. I spent a while trying to work out how it functions. I just sprayed a bit of CRC on the moving bits, and it works real good. It all works now

Here is a ke35 SR for sale on TradMe.com.nz ke35 SR It looks like it has a tachometer. The facia looks wood like, instead of black plastic. ke35 SR came out in Australia as well didn't they? Has anyone got one on rollaclub?

I saw this corolla gauge cluster on ebay. It had a speedo that went up to 200 km/hr, and it had a tachometer: corolla gauge I've never seen this type of gauge in a corolla before. What would of it came out of? Maybe it only came out in Japanese models It went for a pretty high price. Would be nice to have though. Bruce

My temp gauge use to read just a little bit after the cold line (~3mm), when warmed up. But then I put in a new thermostat, and now it reads around 1/3, or around there. I though I did something wrong I looked in the car user manual and it said that normal is around half way. I've just put in another gauge and its got a line just over 1/3 of the way on the temp gauge. When it hits that line it goes down to about 1/4. I guess thats when the thermostat starts opening up.

I think the gear shifter of the celica gearboxes are further forward than the AE gearboxes. If a AE gearbox is put in a ke3x, the shifter hole might need to be cut. There are some pictures of it here: http://fookseung.fotki.com/automotive-1/ke35/engine_install/ With the celica gearbox the shifter comes out through the original shifter hole in the ke3x. I wonder if the extension housing can be changed over from the celica gearbox to the AE gearbox, so that the shifter position is in the right position for a ke3x? :dance:

Did you get the flares from Meridian Motorsports or locally?

I took apart the gauge cluster, and looks pretty easy to swap over the fuel gauge. So yeah, I'll do that. Its funny how they are slightly different

That's a flare on top of the bonnet in your last photo isn't it? That's going to look wicked :dance:

I've put in another guage cluster into my KE30, and I have the problem of the fuel gauge needle being 1/4 lower than normal. With a full tank of petrol, the gauge reads 3/4, when it used to be up to the "F". I think the gauge cluster might of been from a KE35. Does anyone know how to adjust the fuel gauge? I can't see any adjustment screw at the the back of the gauge. Bruce

I travelled 100 to 115 Km on 12.5 L of unleaded. Seems a little bit too much. Hobart driving. I was pretty easy on the accelerator, hardly ever went up to 4000 rpm, and rolled down hills in neutral when ever I could. The lowest I've had the fuel gauge was when the needle was just on the tip of the E Bruce

Lately the only thing I can get my hands on is washing up detergent. My mate whos a mechanic uses some hand cleaning stuff at his work thats got like grains of sand in it, and its got moisturiser. The grains of sands help rub of the grease

What kind of engine you guys reckon it would of been behind? Its got '3A' on the top of the bellhousing. I'm going to have a look on the weekend to see what the gearbox came out of. If its better than my stock 4K, I might consider getting it. If the conversion has already been done (proper), it might not be too much effort to put it in my ke30. What about the 2-piece tail shaft, what would that come out of? When laid side-by-side with a 1-piece tail shaft (say from a ke30) they are the same length, just different front yokes. Bruce

A bloke gave me this gear box. He reckoned he got it out of a KE55 (1980 model I think). I wanted to get a 5 speed gear box (K50) for my 4K engine. But I'm a bit confused. It looks like a T50 gear box. The clutch fork is on the passenger side (starter motor side), and it doesn't have a return spring on it. It must be a hydraulic clutch. And the drain plug is not direcetly underneath like on my K40 gear box. The bell housing has got '3A' on the top of it. And the bolt pattern looks a bit different to my K40. He gave me the drive shaft, since the front yoke was smaller in diameter than my KE30, so I can swap it over. I counted the splines, and I think its 22. Well, I reckon its a T50 gear box, but he saids its off a K series engine. He said it was out of a corolla shaped like mine, except it was a 4 door sedan (KE55). Looks pretty similar to the T50 gear box: http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...eries/Gearboxes I reckon the KE55 would of had its engine converted to an A series engine. Well Here are the photos: anyone recognize the gear shifter? This has to be a T50 doesn't it? And the bell housing definitely wouldn't fit a 4K Bruce

I saw the skid marks, damaged fence, and shattered plastic on the road last saturday morning, when I was going to get the paper. A guy was fixing up the fence as I was walking past. Its on the intersection of Roope and Pirie street, near the Talbot hotel, not far from Kmart in New Town. Roope street has got the stop sign, and Pirie Street has got the speed humps. I just remembered, I was down at Salamanca last Friday night, otherwise I would of heard the crash. The honda driver must have been pissed or something. Normally at night you can see the head lights of a car coming.

Yeah, I guess out gagebrook or bridgewater. It sort of gets rougher as you go out