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Posts posted by rian
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Hey guys, I'm back now. Have exams over the past few weeks so havent had time to post or start working on my car. Just picked up a 41 Piece Socket set for Supercheap so will start taking the strut out. Will post pics soon. Thanks again for all the help and advice so far!!
Well in! You'll learn so much from buying your own tools and fixing your own shit.
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Pets.
Fall in love with the bastards then spend a fortune fixing them or they kick the bucket.
Stupid family cat got collected by a car, poor bugger needs it's legged lopped off.
Dude that ʞ©$ɟing sucks, at least it survived.
Cats rule.
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Sorry to keep y'all waiting.
I pulled the engine down and everything was intact and clean, the engine just didn't have enough compression to fire. The new engine went in and fired straight up on the same wiring loom and ecu that was running the old engine when it died.
It was pretty weird that it lost compression within about a minute of actual driving time.
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You're a bit of a slut
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I suspect your idle circuit in the TPS is out. You cannot set ignition timing until your idle circuit in the TPS is closed, as the ECU will not go into diagnostic mode (regardless of whether the diagnostic light is flashing or not). The timing will jump around everywhere and just generally be way out.
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+1 for base height adjustable.
You can also keep your springs captive/add spring preload and maintain good suspension droop while lowering your car on base height adjustables, you cannot do this easily on normal height adjustable coilovers.
I've been down the weld-on route twice and I wouldn't do it again. I'd go Shockworks base height adjustable AE86 coilovers if I could afford it. BCs also seem to be alright, very high spring rates though.
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If Sonic the Hedgehog was a car.
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why you want to put in ae86 coilovers in? nothing wrong with a spring and shock combo.
^This
A lot of modern cars have gone back to separate spring and shock setups in the rear so it can't be that bad.
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IT"S ALIVE!
I drove it around the block. There's a couple of things that need sorting out but it looks promising, no leaks yet :y:
Will add some pics soon.
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It depends on your offset. You will need to trim the front part of the arch in your fenders to clear the tyres when turning, and you may need flares.
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The sealant I used for the sump must have been old as it didn't quite cure so I've had some drips of oil coming out from the seal in one or two spots.
Leaking sumps are the worst.
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I have used the SW20 rear damper insert in a shortened/coilover AE86 strut housing in a KE70. So far I've tried them with 8, 7 and 5kg/mm springs and I like the 5kg/mm the best - still plenty stiff but not harsh like the 8kg/mm springs. A KE25 is a fair bit lighter than a KE70 too.
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+1 from me too. Would have to be in my top 3 engine bays on here. Very well thought out and executed.
Mine is clearly number 1.
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Wait, it hasn't always meant that ?
ʞ©$ɟ me I've been using it wrong all this time.
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EFI has waaayyy too much $h1t to disconnect, just sayin'.
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so jdm soldered new harness and stero in
Since when did "JDM" become a term for half-arsing something?
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Would recommend BASE height adjustable coilovers over height adjustable coilovers. BC are decent, Shockworks are meant to be best bang for buck.
Would NOT recommend S13 coilovers without other mods.
Would recommend using AE86 power steering arms.
Would recommend front strut brace.
Would recommend REAR sway bar.
Would strongly recommend fixed back bucket seat.
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That was pretty quick!
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You need to know what wheel width you want, the offset and maybe the caliper clearance required - a quick google image search will give you some good diagrams of offset and caliper clearance/overhang. You could probably figure it all out by pulling the wheel off and measuring it up with a straight edge and a ruler. Or just go with the size that others have used on their AE112.
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sunnybank area are u near there at all ?
I'm up at Taringa, so it's not too far. You should post up a rides thread like Clapped Out said :y:
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Ever figure out what happened to old engine?
Nah I just gave up on it. Pretty sure it was just low on compression, because timing(ignition and cam), spark and fuel all seemed to be in order. It would actually start if I poured some oil down the spark plug holes to bump up the compression, but would only run for a few seconds then die.
If the new engine goes in and starts up then I can rule out any electrical or fuel problems as I will be using the same wiring loom/injectors/ecu etc.
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I hope so. It used to leak pretty bad, there's a massive oil patch on the underside of my car from where the gearbox output seal leaked onto the driveshaft and just sprayed oil everywhere. Plus my gearbox always needed to be topped up.
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What's up guys.
My names grant My first car was a ke10 many years ago I have just landed myself a ke11 needs some basics done and hoping to meet some south side Brisbane members. And hopefully get some of your knowledge and some hands on help if possible.
I'm on the south side and can lend a hand if you need.
What Grinds My Gears.
in Rollaclub Social (Off-Topic)
Posted
This has annoyed me for ages!
However, over the years of selling all my car stuff I've noticed that putting less information in an ad generates more interest from buyers, and I don't just mean people asking for information that isn't in the ad but people wanting to buy the shit with no information at all. I guess people just CBF reading/lose interest after knowing all the details/are idiots/think the items might be better than they are because there is no information to go off.