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Showing results for tags '4k'.
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Got myself a KE70 wagon with a 4K roughly two years ago as my first project car and have been working on it on and off. The whole time I've been struggling to get it idling nicely. I've refreshed the entire ignition system, replaced the intake maifold gasket and isolated every vac system to elimiate potential vac leaks, but I'm still having issues. Anyway, I notice after the car has sat for a while, every spark plug is either wet with fuel (or oil I can't tell) around the plug and pooling underneath the metal boot thing they sit in. There are also usually carbon deposits around the tip of the plug. After giving them a clean she will idle for a while nicely only to start stalling and spluttering again. I feel as though it could be running lean, however adjusting the idle mixture screw is very touch and go. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
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Ok guys, I know it's useless for some of us, but I was just going through old posts and noticed that some numbers are controversial between us. After checking my Toyota K Repair Manual I need some final factory recommended numbers missing: 1. WATER TEMPERATURE 2. WATER PRESSURE 3. WATER THERMOSTAT OPENING TEMPERATURE 4. OIL TEMPERATURE 5. OIL PRESSURE 6. FUEL PRESSURE 7. FUEL OCTANE -
Hi team, First time post here so let me know if I’m doing this right.. basically I’m wondering if any members here are able to point me in the right direction for a tuning/carby specialist shop in the Rotorua/BOP area. Might be a long shot but worth a try. I’m currently battling with my 4k build and hit a brick wall with the finer points of fuelling and breathing. Main points of interest on engine are - 1mm bored block/oversize pistons. 3k head with 20 thou skim. Wade 140 cam. Lightened flywheel. My current work schedule and being overseas has meant that I haven’t even touched the car in 3 months or so. And I can’t even remember where I left off, so pretty much wanting someone to come solve all my problems for me haha cheers
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Gidday guys, I'm having ongoing problems with my little 4k kp bugeye. To save a long story... I'll try generalise this as much as i can. I've been battling pinging issues and now hard starting(also won't idle on its own) So far I've replaced coil, spark plugs(twice) leads, rebuilt the carb, replaced manifold gasket with a one piece(slight vacuum leak from coby headers) I got the motor to run without pinging after i ripped the dizzy out and shifted it around. but the timing was way too advanced so i pulled it out again to restart the process. Which made it worse, it won't idle on its own and the pinging is back. I'm certain I've lined up the dizzy to correct base timing. Also another problem is the points. I can't set them with a wide enough gap(i set them to 0.45) but they keep closing almost shut. I think the cam might be worn down, has slight up and down play too) What is the correct way to install the dizzy if it has been installed back in the wrong way? Fixing the carb did help with the pinging at first but it slowly came back. Would low compression cause pinging? What elsw could cause it to ping its head off? I hope you guys can understand, wrote this out in a bit of a rush. The car runs bloody well other than the pinging, bogs a tiny bit when taking off also.
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Might be looking for a new engine for the KE30 soon, if anyone has a functional or close to functional k series for sale let me know. Thanks, Goose Edit: I'm also considering a 4age swap, but I'm researching that further. So if anyone has parts that would help towards that I would be interested. I need to find out everything I would need for that conversion first though.
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Hi Rolla enthusiasts, I have a Ke30 rolla and would like to do an engine swap for a daily driver. Whats the best one for low budget and what mods can be done to it? Thanks in advance.
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So it’s finally time and tomorrow morning I’m travelling to the goldy to pick up my Ke70 project. It’s currently in pieces and has already had rust cut out and fixed up so the first thing that I plan to do to it, is strip it fully and begin paintworks. As a tribute to my first ever car, I have decided to paint it green :O My dearly beloved Toyota Lexcen, bought for $50 off the back of a mates swamp and done up as a replica HSV SV5000 commo (but with SV89 body kit, go figure), was sadly written off after a very intimate encounter with a roo. So to revive some of my dearest memories I decided to paint my new Toyota in the same colour. Now, I haven’t painted in 6 years but nonetheless it’s something I can’t wait to do again. Pics of Ke70 to come tomorrow. Ps. Me painting green when I was 14. Ha. That rhymed. Painter and a Poet.
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Hi.. RollacLub Friends. i have questions my KE70 4K Engine (General Spec) 1.Rear Brake Light off 2.Engine Round Gauge (x1000 RPM) is off 3.Light Gauge is off (normal light & sign light eg.. Left / Right) 4.Wire broken by cut or incorrect link 5.i'm not sure my wire connectors & pin are correct, because i don't have KE70 Electrical Wiring Diagram. Please help me. Thankyou.
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Gday guys, Jay here. Complete noobie to this forum so bare with me lmao. I recently brought a dream car of mine, 1980 Kp60 Bugeye starlie. 4k motor with twin choke single carb and Gilmore pullies. pretty standard. But To cut a long story short.... I brought this planning to get it road worthy. It ran bloody well up until after I put a fresh wof/reg on her and did a full service. I changed the motor n filter, gearbox, diff oils, plus coolant and air filter. The fuel pump had a slight weep from the gasket so I took it out, cleaned it up and attempted to repair it with some rtv lol. Then later that night when I was out she started idling quite low and rough. Almost to the point where it wouldn't idle at all! What would of caused this? Is there anyway of mucking up refitting the fuel pump? Any input on this would be amazing, miss driving it already and it frustrates me that I can't just fix it.
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Hi all, I'm pretty new to this, thanks in advance for bearing with me. I've just bought my first corolla, beautiful 1981 ke55. It drove the two hour trip home without too much hassle. One issue though: with the choke on, it idles just fine (high of course). But no matter how warm she is, as soon as I back the choke off, she shakes and stalls. Also backfires when I take off the choke, and will stall with the clutch in without choke on even at highway speeds. Having a search on rollaclub, people suggested it could be an unplugged fuel solenoid causing the issue. Looking at my carb, it seems like the wire on the end of the solenoid has been cut, and the corresponding green plug in the engine bay isn't plugged into anything. Should I be looking at the solenoid at this point? Thanks for having me, looking forward to getting her running nicely, and learning the basics. cheers
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Recently purchased a twin downdraft manifold from a KP31. I am now considering putting 2 Webers 36 DCNF on it. Will that be a proper thing to do or should I consider 2 32/36 DGV's FYI: The engine is a 4K from a KE70 with a K50 gearbox, all these replaced my stock 2K engine on my Publica KP36. Any suggestions?
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hey guys, I'm from melbourne, so ive had my ke55 for about a year now, ive been doing a bit of research on converting my stock 4k to a 4age and making it manual, i have no idea where to start, its currently on club rego in VIC. i know ill have to get in engineered, can someone give me a few tips ? maybe like a check list of things ill have to do and in which order to do them ? i haven't purchased a motor or anything yet, i want to figure out how much i would need to spend and get all the details first,
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Welcome! You may have had a look at my other thread at http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72174-best-engine-swap-for-ke30/, where I was after information on engine swaps. I will be fixing and modding my 4k. I have a forum post on mighty car mods forum which I will edit a link in tonight. Now, my plans for the Rolla are: - Fix the miss in cylinder 1 - Buy extractors and finish building the custom exhaust - Fix the boot (its not bolted on, no inserts in the boot) - New steelies and tyres - New gaskets and piston rings - Paint it (red, orange, blue or white) - Weber carburettor Things I have done since I bought it: - New tachometer - Fixed the speakers - Full service Photos will be up tonight!
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Hi all, I have a strange rattle I cannot diagnose. I drive a Ke74 Corolla, 5kj engine and T40 box, there is a rattle when decelerating. I can't tell if it is coming from the drivetrain or the engine... it only seems to happen in 3rd or 4th gear, when decelerating and completely off throttle between 4000 - 3000rpm. Adding a little throttle or clutch in ever so slightly and the noise goes away. Could it be a lean condition when off throttle? A bearing in the gearbox? Cheers for any input, Ol.
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Hello Finally I have gained some motivation and time to start my build! I will have pictures coming soon. This blog is mainly so I have a record of what my car has been thru with me haha Cheers and welcome to my build.
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Hi guys, have a 1980 ke55 and I just took the motor out and replaced it with one from a ke70 while using the ke55 cam, carb, distributor, head etc. Has new coil, points, condenser, cap, rotor, leads, seals, headgasket etc. Timing set to 8degrees btdc, points set to 0.4mm, valve clearances set cold. Starts fairly easily and can rev in neutral easily like it used to but if i give the accelerator a few jabs it dies until it returns to idle, also when I take it for a test drive it doesn't want to rev easily and dies when I go over around 3000rpm. Just wondering if you guys can give me some tips or what your thoughts are on the problem and how to fix it? First time posting on here so hope this is the right section, thanks.
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Hi guys I came a cross a old 1981 Toyota corolla 1.3GL 4K still in running condition. I bought it sorted out some engine problems it had now I am stuck with the Wiring I have downloaded all the wiring diagrams i could find on this forum and on the internet. I am not a mechanic or anything of the sort I don't know much about cars or it electrical and can't even make out the diagrams as my rolla is right hand drive and some of the wires on the diagrams does not match up to mine. I am having issues with all my lights, headlights, indicators, dash lights, stoplights, reverse light and even the number plate lights in not working. I replaced all the fuses(new) i could find on all the fuse boxes all three fuse boxes on in the engine bay one in the dashboard and the one the side wall panel next to my excel pedal.replaced all the bulbs, checked if they were all earth properly as i read in other posts, still no luck. however the dash lights came on green in color when i put the lights on side indicators started working but flashing rapidly, and it also shows the blue high beam light on the dash when i switch it to brights. but no lights are working. So now i am sitting with any front or rear light only a green lit dash cluster and side indicators. Please if anyone could explain to me what is wrong and how i can fix this I will be great full. I also tried taking it to a shop to repair but they want to charge me a arm and leg to fix this for that kinda money i could buy another one lol :elvis:
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Hi Everyone, I've got a 4k head that's having issues and it's coming on time to replace it (believed to be cracked). I'll be going to a wreckers where you do all the parts pulling yourself simply because it's so cheap ($40-50) and my question is, how can I tell if the head is a 4k head? The 3k/4k/5k are apparently interchangeable with varying degrees of performance but I just want another 4k head as I don't want to change anything else other than the head. If you had to walk up to a k engine and pick which head it had, what would you be looking for? Or would you just be going on the make/model of the car and trusting it hasn't had the engine or head swapped? Thanks
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Hey Everyone, Figured I would start a build thread, considering it has turned into more of a build than just a buy and drive. So I've already started a thread which a few of you have already thankfully helped me with, but I believe starting this thread (WITH PICS!) will be a more suitable place for everything. This is how I bought it, As some of you had seen the ads you will recognize these photos. Seller informed me all it would need was the water pump put on, tail shaft installed, gearbox oil put in, and a radiator and hoses. After it got delivered i promptly got it up on stands and started on the small list to finish her off. And that's when i noticed that the lowness wasn't from proper springs Installed everything, put the battery in to crank her up and it was just slow turning over.... fun begins. Got a sparky mate around to help with electrics because that isn't my forte, redid the negative terminal to ground, and checked the resistance of the wires to the starter and engine ground. All checked out, shorted out the starter to double check that all seemed clear, but decided to pull it off and get it checked out anyway. Wasn't the starter.... After a bit more advice I pulled the motor out, and started to tear it down to see why it was binding up and so hard to turn over. As soon as I pulled the flywheel and put the motor on the stand it loosened up a lot, could even turn it by hand, but would still bind up a tiny amount. Flywheel Couldn't really see any marks on the wheel itself, very small amount of the rear main seal was scored but nothing major. Whilst I've got the motor out and pulled down, i figured I'd get the cam done, decided to get a tighe 154 grind and the lifters refaced Also getting new big end and main bearings, thrust washers etc. Today I pulled the struts out to change the springs over. Old vs New While I had the wheels off, checked the brake pads and got another lovely surprise... Thankfully I happen to have Girlocks on the front, So VN rear disk pads work in these? This is a massive first post, but I was putting off writing it. I've also got twin SU's on the way Have some extractors to get from a mate from the 3k off my old ke30 2door sedan that is still sitting on stands... There is a couple things that I'm missing that I could use some help with if anyone knows where to look. I need a passenger side front seat belt stalk looks like this and also a rear drivers side. Also if anyone knows where to get the coupe weatherstrip and the strip between the windows? And that is pretty much up to date for now, I was hoping to have the motor rebuilt this weekend, but the bearings are all down in NSW and need to be posted up here, so hopefully I can have her on the road in the next two weeks. sorry for the wall of text, future updates should be smaller.
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Hey guys, So I've bought my second corolla, a 1974 ke35, and the previous owner has put a 4k in because his wife blew up the 3k. Now when I bought it, it hasnt been completed, I've got what appears to be a fuel return line? Which I thought these cars didn't have. I'm probably mistaken, but if anyone could be so kind as to tell me where this is meant to connect to that would be great.
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Hey guys and girls. I'm new here and have recently put a 4k in my Morris Minor. I replaced the head gasket not long ago and this is the first head gasket I've ever replaced. I thought I did everything right, cleaned off any of the old gasket, checked the head and block for warps with a feeler gauge, tightened head bolts in order and in the stages recommended and to the torque recommended. Followed everything I could find on what to do (and learnt a lot in the process, I have a new fondness for this engine now). Unfortunately she's now leaking extremely badly out of the exhaust. Not steam, just excessive water and will run too hot so I turn her off. It didn't leak at first, but in a couple of weeks (I don't drive it often or far) it started spewing water out. Be gentle, but after much thinking and looking over photos of what I did, I think I found out I'm a complete and utter idiot and installed the head gasket backwards as I didn't take note of which end was where when I took the old one off. Upon looking at images of the gasket, all the holes lined up but I've only just realised now that the two really curved ends of the gaskets have different curvatures. In the attached photo, which end is cylinder 1? The end with the two extra holes on the end and the extra curve (left in the image) or the end with no extra holes (right in the image). I'm ready to kick myself for this but I want to be sure before I take it apart again and guess I'll probably be needing a new gasket. Also, when (if ever) should the head bolts be replaced and where can you get them from? I'm not sure how often the head has been taken off and new bolts couldn't hurt if I continue to have issues. Thanks in advance.
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I own a KP36 Pick up truck with a 2K engine and I was wandering if a 4K carburetor will fit. Thanks.
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My ke55 engine was knocking off chop so decided to rip it out and try to find the problem before it gets any worst. When taking off the sump this fell into the bottom and I have no idea what it's from. Anyone got some ideas before I have to go looking?
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As title says, something along the line is meaning my battery isn't charging. It will drive with a jump start, but only reads around 9 on the multimeter. Brand new alternator Brand new battery Brand new terminals and wiring Brand new regulator. Yet its still doing it. This is on my 4k KE70 Panel van. Any help would be massively appreciated.
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Hey guys I've just bought a pretty straight stock 82 ke70 xx. Apart from the general fixing up of the bog and rust throughout the car I was thinking of a few little mods to do on not the biggest budget. After all the body work is finished I'd probably be respraying it at home after getting a little more experienced in painting. I'd also be aiming for some wider wheels and was looking at 15x8+0, some opinions on that would be great. Lastly the stock 4k is a little bit on the slow side, some opinions on whether the 4k is actually worth the work or something like a 4age would be more appropriate. As far as I know there is an exemption available for P plates in queensland, if anyone has had any experience with that i'd love to hear. Thanks Guys.
