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  1. Got myself a KE70 wagon with a 4K roughly two years ago as my first project car and have been working on it on and off. The whole time I've been struggling to get it idling nicely. I've refreshed the entire ignition system, replaced the intake maifold gasket and isolated every vac system to elimiate potential vac leaks, but I'm still having issues. Anyway, I notice after the car has sat for a while, every spark plug is either wet with fuel (or oil I can't tell) around the plug and pooling underneath the metal boot thing they sit in. There are also usually carbon deposits around the tip of the plug. After giving them a clean she will idle for a while nicely only to start stalling and spluttering again. I feel as though it could be running lean, however adjusting the idle mixture screw is very touch and go. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
  2. I know a lot of people aren't interested in playing around with the stock K series Aisan carburettor. I reckon they're tops and if it wasn't for the ridiculous cost of a rebuild kit and a dip in the acid bath, i'd spend my days rebuilding these little gems. I've handled a quite a few 3k and 4k variants but i'm looking for any information on jet sizing in regards to the 5k version. I know there are variations between each and every carb but sizing on the idle, mains and power jet would be great. Below are my ke70 4k and ke30 3k carbs.
  3. Ok guys, I know it's useless for some of us, but I was just going through old posts and noticed that some numbers are controversial between us. After checking my Toyota K Repair Manual I need some final factory recommended numbers missing: 1. WATER TEMPERATURE 2. WATER PRESSURE 3. WATER THERMOSTAT OPENING TEMPERATURE 4. OIL TEMPERATURE 5. OIL PRESSURE 6. FUEL PRESSURE 7. FUEL OCTANE
  4. So it’s finally time and tomorrow morning I’m travelling to the goldy to pick up my Ke70 project. It’s currently in pieces and has already had rust cut out and fixed up so the first thing that I plan to do to it, is strip it fully and begin paintworks. As a tribute to my first ever car, I have decided to paint it green :O My dearly beloved Toyota Lexcen, bought for $50 off the back of a mates swamp and done up as a replica HSV SV5000 commo (but with SV89 body kit, go figure), was sadly written off after a very intimate encounter with a roo. So to revive some of my dearest memories I decided to paint my new Toyota in the same colour. Now, I haven’t painted in 6 years but nonetheless it’s something I can’t wait to do again. Pics of Ke70 to come tomorrow. Ps. Me painting green when I was 14. Ha. That rhymed. Painter and a Poet.
  5. Hi team, First time post here so let me know if I’m doing this right.. basically I’m wondering if any members here are able to point me in the right direction for a tuning/carby specialist shop in the Rotorua/BOP area. Might be a long shot but worth a try. I’m currently battling with my 4k build and hit a brick wall with the finer points of fuelling and breathing. Main points of interest on engine are - 1mm bored block/oversize pistons. 3k head with 20 thou skim. Wade 140 cam. Lightened flywheel. My current work schedule and being overseas has meant that I haven’t even touched the car in 3 months or so. And I can’t even remember where I left off, so pretty much wanting someone to come solve all my problems for me haha cheers
  6. Gidday guys, I'm having ongoing problems with my little 4k kp bugeye. To save a long story... I'll try generalise this as much as i can. I've been battling pinging issues and now hard starting(also won't idle on its own) So far I've replaced coil, spark plugs(twice) leads, rebuilt the carb, replaced manifold gasket with a one piece(slight vacuum leak from coby headers) I got the motor to run without pinging after i ripped the dizzy out and shifted it around. but the timing was way too advanced so i pulled it out again to restart the process. Which made it worse, it won't idle on its own and the pinging is back. I'm certain I've lined up the dizzy to correct base timing. Also another problem is the points. I can't set them with a wide enough gap(i set them to 0.45) but they keep closing almost shut. I think the cam might be worn down, has slight up and down play too) What is the correct way to install the dizzy if it has been installed back in the wrong way? Fixing the carb did help with the pinging at first but it slowly came back. Would low compression cause pinging? What elsw could cause it to ping its head off? I hope you guys can understand, wrote this out in a bit of a rush. The car runs bloody well other than the pinging, bogs a tiny bit when taking off also.
  7. Might be looking for a new engine for the KE30 soon, if anyone has a functional or close to functional k series for sale let me know. Thanks, Goose Edit: I'm also considering a 4age swap, but I'm researching that further. So if anyone has parts that would help towards that I would be interested. I need to find out everything I would need for that conversion first though.
  8. Hi Rolla enthusiasts, I have a Ke30 rolla and would like to do an engine swap for a daily driver. Whats the best one for low budget and what mods can be done to it? Thanks in advance.
  9. Gday guys, Jay here. Complete noobie to this forum so bare with me lmao. I recently brought a dream car of mine, 1980 Kp60 Bugeye starlie. 4k motor with twin choke single carb and Gilmore pullies. pretty standard. But To cut a long story short.... I brought this planning to get it road worthy. It ran bloody well up until after I put a fresh wof/reg on her and did a full service. I changed the motor n filter, gearbox, diff oils, plus coolant and air filter. The fuel pump had a slight weep from the gasket so I took it out, cleaned it up and attempted to repair it with some rtv lol. Then later that night when I was out she started idling quite low and rough. Almost to the point where it wouldn't idle at all! What would of caused this? Is there anyway of mucking up refitting the fuel pump? Any input on this would be amazing, miss driving it already and it frustrates me that I can't just fix it.
  10. Hi.. RollacLub Friends. i have questions my KE70 4K Engine (General Spec) 1.Rear Brake Light off 2.Engine Round Gauge (x1000 RPM) is off 3.Light Gauge is off (normal light & sign light eg.. Left / Right) 4.Wire broken by cut or incorrect link 5.i'm not sure my wire connectors & pin are correct, because i don't have KE70 Electrical Wiring Diagram. Please help me. Thankyou.
  11. Hi all, I'm pretty new to this, thanks in advance for bearing with me. I've just bought my first corolla, beautiful 1981 ke55. It drove the two hour trip home without too much hassle. One issue though: with the choke on, it idles just fine (high of course). But no matter how warm she is, as soon as I back the choke off, she shakes and stalls. Also backfires when I take off the choke, and will stall with the clutch in without choke on even at highway speeds. Having a search on rollaclub, people suggested it could be an unplugged fuel solenoid causing the issue. Looking at my carb, it seems like the wire on the end of the solenoid has been cut, and the corresponding green plug in the engine bay isn't plugged into anything. Should I be looking at the solenoid at this point? Thanks for having me, looking forward to getting her running nicely, and learning the basics. cheers
  12. Hi everyone, the corolla you can see in my pictures, the bluey greeny ke55 is starting to blow alot of smoke and the engine is being a right pain in the arse ever for a 4k with 180,000km on the clock. decided to do an engine conversion on it, but I would like people with more experiences advice. What engine should I put in that would give me the best results and be the easiest to put in my lil rwd beast. Thank you all in advance David
  13. ]Hi guys, heres our '67 Ke10B Race Car, Dad and his mates had some pretty wild old 'rollas many years ago, so we decided to create a tribute to everyone who used to play around with them as most of everyones bits, parts ,cars; etc still survived it was just too tempting to put it all in the 10 for a bit of cheap fun on the weekend...... We found it sitting in a paddock after 9 years, heres a few pics of how it was found Brought the car home, started to dis-assemble so we could see what she had to hide. Intentions are to turn it into a budget Hillclimb, Circuit and Sprint car. It seems to have been modified in the '80's judging by the aftermarket seats we found in it... It didnt come with an engine or gearbox, but appears to have had a 5sp in it as the trans tunnel has had extra holes cut in it. With the intention of making it a track car, we plan on widening the track of it, and putting a Ke70 front end in it, it will be "K" engine powered to kick off with hence the thead name, but with lots of mods to increase power handling etc.. Upon putting it in the garage, we pulled it apart, and found it had a bit of rust hiding. A few plates and an attack with the welder seemed to do the trick more to come...
  14. Recently purchased a twin downdraft manifold from a KP31. I am now considering putting 2 Webers 36 DCNF on it. Will that be a proper thing to do or should I consider 2 32/36 DGV's FYI: The engine is a 4K from a KE70 with a K50 gearbox, all these replaced my stock 2K engine on my Publica KP36. Any suggestions?
  15. MartyJ

    Ke Auto Build

    Hello Finally I have gained some motivation and time to start my build! I will have pictures coming soon. This blog is mainly so I have a record of what my car has been thru with me haha Cheers and welcome to my build.
  16. hey guys, I'm from melbourne, so ive had my ke55 for about a year now, ive been doing a bit of research on converting my stock 4k to a 4age and making it manual, i have no idea where to start, its currently on club rego in VIC. i know ill have to get in engineered, can someone give me a few tips ? maybe like a check list of things ill have to do and in which order to do them ? i haven't purchased a motor or anything yet, i want to figure out how much i would need to spend and get all the details first,
  17. Hi all, I have a strange rattle I cannot diagnose. I drive a Ke74 Corolla, 5kj engine and T40 box, there is a rattle when decelerating. I can't tell if it is coming from the drivetrain or the engine... it only seems to happen in 3rd or 4th gear, when decelerating and completely off throttle between 4000 - 3000rpm. Adding a little throttle or clutch in ever so slightly and the noise goes away. Could it be a lean condition when off throttle? A bearing in the gearbox? Cheers for any input, Ol.
  18. Welcome! You may have had a look at my other thread at http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72174-best-engine-swap-for-ke30/, where I was after information on engine swaps. I will be fixing and modding my 4k. I have a forum post on mighty car mods forum which I will edit a link in tonight. Now, my plans for the Rolla are: - Fix the miss in cylinder 1 - Buy extractors and finish building the custom exhaust - Fix the boot (its not bolted on, no inserts in the boot) - New steelies and tyres - New gaskets and piston rings - Paint it (red, orange, blue or white) - Weber carburettor Things I have done since I bought it: - New tachometer - Fixed the speakers - Full service Photos will be up tonight!
  19. Hi guys I came a cross a old 1981 Toyota corolla 1.3GL 4K still in running condition. I bought it sorted out some engine problems it had now I am stuck with the Wiring I have downloaded all the wiring diagrams i could find on this forum and on the internet. I am not a mechanic or anything of the sort I don't know much about cars or it electrical and can't even make out the diagrams as my rolla is right hand drive and some of the wires on the diagrams does not match up to mine. I am having issues with all my lights, headlights, indicators, dash lights, stoplights, reverse light and even the number plate lights in not working. I replaced all the fuses(new) i could find on all the fuse boxes all three fuse boxes on in the engine bay one in the dashboard and the one the side wall panel next to my excel pedal.replaced all the bulbs, checked if they were all earth properly as i read in other posts, still no luck. however the dash lights came on green in color when i put the lights on side indicators started working but flashing rapidly, and it also shows the blue high beam light on the dash when i switch it to brights. but no lights are working. So now i am sitting with any front or rear light only a green lit dash cluster and side indicators. Please if anyone could explain to me what is wrong and how i can fix this I will be great full. I also tried taking it to a shop to repair but they want to charge me a arm and leg to fix this for that kinda money i could buy another one lol :elvis:
  20. Hey RollaCLUB Fans ^_^ This is my corolla, my daily. I love this car so much its a great daily/weekend cruiser. Its running a 5k apart from that its pretty stock. This wont be a crazy build thread, prob just randoms pics n lite mods. [Old rims,old pic] I got some new rims over the last few weeks. Has nice dish too ^_^ Front: SSR Star Sharks 14x7 -2. with 165/65 tyres Rear: Enkei AP Racing 13x7 -1. with 175/70 tyres
  21. Hi guys, have a 1980 ke55 and I just took the motor out and replaced it with one from a ke70 while using the ke55 cam, carb, distributor, head etc. Has new coil, points, condenser, cap, rotor, leads, seals, headgasket etc. Timing set to 8degrees btdc, points set to 0.4mm, valve clearances set cold. Starts fairly easily and can rev in neutral easily like it used to but if i give the accelerator a few jabs it dies until it returns to idle, also when I take it for a test drive it doesn't want to rev easily and dies when I go over around 3000rpm. Just wondering if you guys can give me some tips or what your thoughts are on the problem and how to fix it? First time posting on here so hope this is the right section, thanks.
  22. Hey all, I have recently come into possession of an 1984 model ke70 and the starter motor has seemed to have a pretty hard life and has decided to give out. So now I'm chasing a starter motor for it, I have called up all the local wreckers and haven't been able to come across anything except an ae82 with a 4ac. I was wondering if the starter motor off this would fit my 4k or would even the internals swap over into the 4k starter motor? Thanks for any help
  23. Hi Everyone, I've got a 4k head that's having issues and it's coming on time to replace it (believed to be cracked). I'll be going to a wreckers where you do all the parts pulling yourself simply because it's so cheap ($40-50) and my question is, how can I tell if the head is a 4k head? The 3k/4k/5k are apparently interchangeable with varying degrees of performance but I just want another 4k head as I don't want to change anything else other than the head. If you had to walk up to a k engine and pick which head it had, what would you be looking for? Or would you just be going on the make/model of the car and trusting it hasn't had the engine or head swapped? Thanks
  24. Hey Everyone, Figured I would start a build thread, considering it has turned into more of a build than just a buy and drive. So I've already started a thread which a few of you have already thankfully helped me with, but I believe starting this thread (WITH PICS!) will be a more suitable place for everything. This is how I bought it, As some of you had seen the ads you will recognize these photos. Seller informed me all it would need was the water pump put on, tail shaft installed, gearbox oil put in, and a radiator and hoses. After it got delivered i promptly got it up on stands and started on the small list to finish her off. And that's when i noticed that the lowness wasn't from proper springs Installed everything, put the battery in to crank her up and it was just slow turning over.... fun begins. Got a sparky mate around to help with electrics because that isn't my forte, redid the negative terminal to ground, and checked the resistance of the wires to the starter and engine ground. All checked out, shorted out the starter to double check that all seemed clear, but decided to pull it off and get it checked out anyway. Wasn't the starter.... After a bit more advice I pulled the motor out, and started to tear it down to see why it was binding up and so hard to turn over. As soon as I pulled the flywheel and put the motor on the stand it loosened up a lot, could even turn it by hand, but would still bind up a tiny amount. Flywheel Couldn't really see any marks on the wheel itself, very small amount of the rear main seal was scored but nothing major. Whilst I've got the motor out and pulled down, i figured I'd get the cam done, decided to get a tighe 154 grind and the lifters refaced Also getting new big end and main bearings, thrust washers etc. Today I pulled the struts out to change the springs over. Old vs New While I had the wheels off, checked the brake pads and got another lovely surprise... Thankfully I happen to have Girlocks on the front, So VN rear disk pads work in these? This is a massive first post, but I was putting off writing it. I've also got twin SU's on the way Have some extractors to get from a mate from the 3k off my old ke30 2door sedan that is still sitting on stands... There is a couple things that I'm missing that I could use some help with if anyone knows where to look. I need a passenger side front seat belt stalk looks like this and also a rear drivers side. Also if anyone knows where to get the coupe weatherstrip and the strip between the windows? And that is pretty much up to date for now, I was hoping to have the motor rebuilt this weekend, but the bearings are all down in NSW and need to be posted up here, so hopefully I can have her on the road in the next two weeks. sorry for the wall of text, future updates should be smaller.
  25. Hey guys, So I've bought my second corolla, a 1974 ke35, and the previous owner has put a 4k in because his wife blew up the 3k. Now when I bought it, it hasnt been completed, I've got what appears to be a fuel return line? Which I thought these cars didn't have. I'm probably mistaken, but if anyone could be so kind as to tell me where this is meant to connect to that would be great.
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