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Found 9 results

  1. Here I will Show you all the progress of my AE101 as I take it... I'm the Second Owner, I Buy It on 2006 with 78,XXXmi. Buy New Tires, Intrax Springs, KYB Shocks, Headlights, HID, etc... As you see on the pics... Don't have pics as I take it... Well That's my Daily Driven... Pics From 2006 More Pics to be add soon... Thanks For looking Enjoy!
  2. Ok so I am currently running a 20v blacktop in my GT-S. I bought the coolant conversion kit from SQ and a tweaked performance wiring harness. Everything was smooth sailing until I realized that the block off plate on the back of the motor only houses the ecu temp sensor and the coolant temp switch (white). I was told that the switch isnt needed..makes sense why there isn't a harness side connector for it...but it fits perfectly in the block off plate. On the other hand, the coolant temp gauge (gray) I was informed that I needed...but have no place to put it....but has a harness side connector. Main question is where do you guys have this sensor mounted, it looks to just be a signal wire going to it...just need more info on how this guy works and if I can stick it in the upper radiator hose or not. Thanks!
  3. I recently was sent a 20V Blacktop (Noir Crowning) head...... so once unwrapped and set up on the bench.... inspection begins.... Over all the casting quality has gotten much better. Although there still is port-bowl-seat shift, the shift amount - at least in this head, is minimal. There is one REALLY, and I mean REALLY odd ball bit........ the 3 intake valve seats have NO semblance of an even 3 angle... Looking into the Blacktop service manual the 3 angles are suppose to be 30, 45, 60. Well the throat cut - 60 degree cut, in essence is the bowl angle and so the back of the port (highest pressure area) has no effective throat cut, while if you look carefully, the throat cut at the short radius is so small, it also becomes more or less insufficient... and the the throat cut between the two... is nothing short of an extreme change - from a width @ the back of the port of almost 5mm, to the width at the short radius of the port of less than 1mm. One thing is certain - the factory put a lot more effort in to making the bowls and seats as smooth a transition as the factory could do... the bowl machining marks you see are not by me... those are all factory machining Adding some more info.... The heads thickness measure..... My dial caliper is likely off by .001" and getting a chamber volume and it is very close to SamQ's 37.8cc measurement.... I'm closer to 38cc Further inspection...... shows a few issues on the exhaust side... look @ those casting marks.... as they travel from the bowl to the port. Also the small "step" in the machining/casting hurts flow, especially at lower lifts. More to come........ :D
  4. Hey Guys I currently have a 20v silvertop which i will use initially in my ke25 and was going to use a t50 box, but with an eye one the future (as I will put in a 7age 20v) wondered about a w55...... has anyone done this? How much does the tunnel need 'massaged'? Any way to retain original shifter position and centre console...ie remote shifter?? cheers
  5. Hey guys I was wanting to know how I go about connecting my ke70 throttle cable to the 20v throttle bodies I have on my 16v 4age. I tried to find info on this but could not find much, I know the ke70 cable is long enough to reach unlike ae71 but just wondering how to do it properly. Any help would be much appreciated.
  6. I've got a 4age 16v smallport FWD with a gearbox that is on it's way out. I've found a 20v gearbox for a decent price and was wondering if they will bolt straight on to the 16v and also if the splines on the main shaft will fit properly too. Some people say they do and some say they don't so I don't know who to believe. Any help will be appreciated :-)
  7. I'm not to sure why but I've DONE the conversion everything's into my Ae92 corolla Now the engine is cranking but from what I have noticed its getting no spark, I thought it was the crank angle sensor which is in the dizzy on the blacktop so I changed it and nothing changed, then I noticed I'm gettig constant power to my coil . When it should be pulsing when I crank my engine, WHY IS THIS HAPPEENING THIS CONSTANT POWER AND NOT PULSING POWER KEEPS MELTING MY COILS Thanks guys
  8. I am deadset farken hopeless. I lasted maybe a month before I bought another car to go club racing lol.. Saw this on ebay a few months ago and was keen but the timing was poor, however its popped up again this week so I snapped it up. It does officially break the "only three toy cars" rule at home, but I think its cheapness has let me sneak it in. The basics are its a 1986? (I will have to check that) Ae82 Corolla Twin Cam hatch. Someone clearly loved it and spent a lot of money on it at some point in its life. Has 20 valve conversion, reportedly done by Toyrolla Spares. Its very neat from the brief look I have had over it. Painted Ford Blueprint blue, and its still very neat. Interior needs a good steam clean and a general tidy up, but has real carbon fibre covers put on the top of the dash and a few other bits. Odd! Because race car? Has uprated suspsension of some kind, and nolathane bushes through out. I will explore more of what it has at some point soon. I am told I am not allowed to play with it until I get the Crown sorted, so it will get parked in the corner for the moment, though I know myself well enough to know that the parts hunting game is about to commence...shhhhhh ;) First major works will be to work out why the engine sounds like a man with a hammer at certain revs. Given the dude selling it had his mechanic dodgy up one main bearing, I am tipping its another one wanting to be done. So I will probably whip the engine out for a refresh and do it properly. It will also get my seat and harness, some wheels with semi's for racing purposes, and at some point some MRP coil overs. Couple of photos from the ebay ad. I will put some better ones up when I clean it up and the weather is better. You can see in the pics the front bar is a bit wombled. I might replace that and do the headlights and taillights too, so they are as fresh as most of the rest of the car. Maybe :) Stay tuned. Oh and it needs a name.. the colour is making me think Smurf... but I am open to suggestion.
  9. Hey all, it is a 20v Silvertop, Anyone have any opinions on why if I pour fuel into the throttle bodies and start the engine, it runs till its out of fuel, yet there is no injector pulse? I am still using the FWD wiring loom UNCUT as I only put the engine in for an event this weekend. I can't figure out why it would have been running perfectly in the FWD car and now it's not going. Its still a standard Silvertop ECU. Perhaps it could be something like part of the interior loom that is still in the other car that needs to be there? Although I'm just powering the ECU from my ignition switch and I've left most of the stuff that would have been in the kick panels disconnected because I don't want bulk wiring inside the car as I barely used any of it with my 16v? Maybe its an Earth that I've left off somewhere? If anyone has any insights it would be great because I need it by this Sunday!
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