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Ke15 Sl Sprinter Thread...


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UPDATE:

 

About a week back now I bought a KE1X aircon manual :P And it arrived :D Picture below:

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It is the 4th book in the factory manual set. The KE1X used in it was a 1969 KE10 2 door sedan. So same year as my sprinter so all the parts etc match up. Now jsut to find a KE1X aircon system..lol

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 4 weeks later...

Check out my KE15 reday for paintng. Also check out the baby supras, and center console on my cardomain site.http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2611691

Let me know what you think. I have AE86 front brakes that wll go on later, but I hear I can add RX7 4 piston calipers and rotors for even more stopping power.

I am looking into this recipe.

Good luck and enjoy that car, there true treasure because there so rare.

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69sprinter I know your car. I found that thread once before. You have some work ahead of you but it will be worth it these are great cars. Also will you sell your center console?lol I so want that. Where did you pick it up from?

 

Firstly I have now fitted a new window washer system :cool: I got an old KE2X bottle for the washers. The seal on the bottom was dead so I hunted a seal down that fitted and sealed the pump into the bottle and now it is good as new. I can't find aKE1X bottle and the KE2X still does the job so I fitted it.

 

The new pump I got is just a universal one from super cheap. Its part number is CL404M-12-109740. It is the one for a hilux and corona but also fits the KE2X bottle but they don't list that on the box. For the water lines I recycled some more and sourced my mates KE70 he is wrecking and got the T pieces and rubber lines for free. I soaked them in pure chlorine for about 5min. After that they were clean no yellow tinge from age at all :lol:. When I went to install the new rubber lines to the nozzles I found minor surface rust on the panel that the squirter's stick through on the lip of it so I removed it stripped off rust and painted it and the back wall of the engine bay I touched it up while I was there. A pic is below of the panel with rust. I have just painted the flange section gloss black and was yet to fix the rust in the center when this photo was taken. I also found the rubber strip glued there to seal the heater box inlet was like new still so it stayed.

post-1811-1188653798_thumb.jpg

Also below is a pic of the fire wall touch up. And the previous owner painted over the plate on the fire wall with the cars number etc on it. So I also painted over it again. But this was to re coat the bolts. I will be removing that and stripping it to raw metal again so you can read it etc.

 

post-1811-1188653852_thumb.jpg

 

Next thing I have been doing is rebuilding the brakes for the car. I have got a set of girlock AE71/KE70 calipers and discs and will be using these. So I sand blasted the calipers being careful not to damage the bore for the piston by taping it off etc then painted them yellow. As red is everywhere and car is orange so yellow is similar. I also put a new kit through them that included new dust covers and piston rings so now there like new. I then went and got some new high tensile bolts that lock the slides to the caliper as you are meant to use new ones everytime the brakes come off so a few $$ for some piece of mind I renewed them. So All that is left to do is buy new pads, get some KE30 backign plates, And new disc rotors I have decided ill use new rotors and not secondhand items, and install the brakes and bleed them.

Pics below:

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Calipers all painted.

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Slides before painting. Top nick no marks on them

 

I also picked up a 1968 magazine that has an article in it about the AMI SL corolla. Full write up and test. In the day the SL sedan did 55mph in second gear. So with my 5K I plan to beat that..lol Will hopefully get scans of article soon.

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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  • 6 months later...

UPDATES:

 

Started on the interior now. The radio that came in the car came with was an after market tape deck the original owner stuffed into the dash poorly. And he fitted an after market roof mount Ariel. I have been hunting down now an early corolla original radio and found one :nervous: Not a KE1X one but the guy who sold it to me said it was out a KE1X and it has the fade mark from the dash face so it will do.

 

But when installing it I decided to pull most of the center dash out to clean it up etc. So pulled choke out it had a broken lever so I replaced it with a NEW ke1X item much nicer now.

 

Also the heater controls had snapped and were lose and floppy and heater cables screwed up etc So I did a full rebuild on this item. New cables, levers, bushes on the mount, repainted mount etc.

 

Then I got to the radio surround. To fit the tape deck this had been cut up for the larger size :lol: So I hunted down an original un-cut one VERY NICE. Only 1 small crack so good nick still. Prob paid to much but I wanted the original look. So this was fitted with the new radio and the dash reassembled.

 

So got all the above items installed and looking neat and tuned the radio to 4KQ of course and we were off |blink|

Well pics below of the dash fixing:

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...;hl=heater+ke15

 

Refer to link for controls rebuild and pics.

 

post-1811-1206952069_thumb.jpg

 

Pic of radio :lol:

Edited by camerondownunder88
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I have decided to get a thermo fan for the corolla as it will give me more power and better cooling. For the thermal switch I use a factory thermo switch out of an EFI KE70 system it id designed to switch at theright temp for a K motor and looks neater so I fitted one to my thermo stat housing.

 

Next I got a fan from ebay and used the mount kit with it and mounted it on the front of the radator is a huge fan moves HEAPS of air.

 

Fan works great kinda big for the radiator but it was cheap unused never opened in box $10 I mean can't go wrong and I got a free spare motor new and main frame for a thermo of same type so SCORE.

 

Pics below:

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This is the fan new nice design CHEAP :nervous:

 

post-1811-1206959729_thumb.jpg

Sorting out wires.

 

NEXT....

 

I had starter issues. So I got out one of my new KE70 starters. These run bigger bolts to attach it to the gear box so I modified the gear box to suit by drilling out the top hole and using a through bolt on the bottom of the bell housing and works GREAT.

 

While in there I finished the new loom I had started earlier for the car. I just did battery-alt/charging-starter loom. As over time all the wires had corroded, perished, wicked up oil and dirt, and connectors had become brittle

 

So got onto my sparky mate a few rolls of wire later to the original color and I had a loom took about a day to get it done I was happy. I used 4 gauge wire from battery to starter and ground cranks like nothing ever before and I run 200PSI cyclinder pressure due to shaved head so helps a lot. I also run a battery that could crank a V8..lol

 

Pics below:

post-1811-1206960102_thumb.jpg

 

Also I noticed what is in the picture below while swapping the starter motor:

post-1811-1206960155_thumb.jpg

 

Must of cracked over time so lucky I was swapping. Also the KE70 starter was a heat shield type. I had to remove the heat shield to get it to fit in a KE10 as the other week I picked up some KE1X pace makers |blink| So I will get the exhaust shop to bend them out from the motor for me for heat issues also then try to refit the starters heat shield.

 

NEXT....

 

Drivers seat adjuster.. Well in short it was broken I fixed :lol: Pics below:

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Old adjuster above

 

post-1811-1206960266_thumb.jpg

NEW ONE :lol:

 

Then...

 

I wanted an ORIGINAL heater valve again not a poxy after market one that prob will break 6 months on..

 

So I stripped 2 for parts got the best parts. Blasted them acid dipped them new o rings etc. BUT the lever on it still was seized. I had it in penetrate for a week soaking NOTHING and I snapped one lever trying to remove. So I have re-built the current unit in the off position and it wont turn on. But in case the road worthie guy tries to move the lever in the car I disconnected its wire under the dash so just in case lever in car moves valve stays OFF.

 

Pics below:

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Upon opening after cleaning with high pressure water and air in it and everything this still remained.

 

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semi clean

 

 

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what the cable looks like attached and run into the car. Notice how it goes to the left around the rear carby.

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And the 2 above are just angle shots of it installed.

 

Also to install it I obtained a old KE1X thermostat housing and a KE30 top out let. The reason for the old body was it has one hole for the valve at M16 X 1.5 thread and no second hole for pollution gear and on the left hand side no pipe for heater hose. Looks neater using it for rego purposes.

So while I had them off I cleaned them grind a few dags off chased all the threads on it and lapped all surfaces to mirror DEAD FLAT finish on a proper $40,000 lapping table at work got a pic of me holding one at home half way into lapping completion. MM SHINEY can assembly with out a gasket now and it wont leak but jut to be safe..LOL I used one. And notice in the top of the pic the vice marks YEP wasn't going to lap them out way to deep and they weren't on a sealing face so all good :)

Pics below:

post-1811-1206960875_thumb.jpg

 

Also one day I decided to run the car quickly around yard with out trying to rev it (oh I run a crap KE25 throttle cable so can't pass 3000RPM due to it being to long) just drop clutch 5K in KE15 on grass does double legged :) Was fun steering feels good in it to. Pic below.

post-1811-1206961183_thumb.jpg

 

Well that is me for now more stuff has happened replaced some chrome a head light got new battery terminals got extractors. Now I need to get tires, car seat covers, paint fixed in places, and lower radiator pipe and a fan belt and we are ready for rego :) so close..but I'm broke so tires will have to wait..LOL

 

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATES:

 

Decided I would try to finish cooling system off today so I can drive the car. Went and got some blue heater hose I needed and got cracking. As I am keeping all my under bonnet (well most of it) hoses the same color makes it look much neater.

 

WELL. Got all the heater and radiator hoses and everything connected up. Filled it with water and it all leaks :lolcry: water pump had a minor leak, heater valve leaked, Inlet pipe on heater core in car leaked, lower radiator hose leaked, etc man i was annoyed. Never had a cooling system issue before with leaks till today.

 

So I drained the water system and begin to fix leaks. The leak on the internal heater of the car was due to when I slipped the pipe on the metal core it had a sharp edge and cut the hose a bit. So retrimmed hose, filed bur off core and fitted hose. Then the lower radiator I used an old hose i had laying about it was had it. So tossed it int he bin and went to get another one. The original heater tap I rebuilt I took the top off it again and put some master gasket 515 around the o-ring. as I didn't have an o-ring the size I needed to replace it. Then the water pump I threw in the bin and got a spare one out and fitted it.

 

So filled the radiator again and NO LEAKS :) so happy now. So another thing down one step closer to finishing.

 

But on other news. I over hauled the original fan belt pulley stripped it to bare metal prepped and painted again looks how at pic below:

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all painted was gloss as phone camera doesn't do it any justice makes it look flat.

 

Also got my self an ORIGINAL yes ORIGINAL twin carby KE1X air filter with good condition sticker on it:

Pic below:

post-1811-1208004186_thumb.jpg

Did peel sticker off so I will blast clean and paint it again so it is like new and re stick the sticker on. Now for hard part find filter that fits..LOL I don't think the subi one quite fits the KE1X box but ill see.

 

Cameron

Edited by camerondownunder88
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  • 4 months later...
  • 1 year later...

UPDATES:

 

Been ages since I posted about the KE15 and it still is not on the road ;) But very close just have to finish paint work and it is all go. So I will make a start on that soon.

 

But I have began my break upgrade :) Decided to finally get off my ass and do it. The original brakes looked like:

post-1811-1254554613_thumb.jpg

 

The new brakes are made up of:

NEW KE70 brake rotors

NEW KE70 brake pads (high performance high heat ones)

NEW braided brake lines

NEW wheel bearings

Over hauled calipers

NEW brake fluid

Over hauled master cyclinder

Flushed brake lines and repainted.

All new clips and small attachment items.

Blasted and repainted KE30 backing plates

 

Picture of setup below:

post-1811-1254554922_thumb.jpg

Picture below of the over hauled master cyclinder:

post-1811-1254555085_thumb.jpg

 

The master cyclinder I had a spare KE1X one so I sent it to the brake shop and for $160 I had it rebuilt with new piston seals and all the LOT. So when it came back I just had to swap the original KE15 one with the rebuilt one. This way I will always have one ready to go.

 

The brake lines were bit of a stuff up. I was told KE55/70 lines would fit on the KE1X NOT quite. At full lock the upper hose was stretched to the max so I didn't like this and it was unsafe so I took the original KE15 brake line and the KE55 brake lines I had and went to the brake shop again and asked them to make a custom braided hose that was a KE55/70 bottom from strut to caliper but KE15 top wheel arch to strut. They did this and it fits like a glove. And the best part was in the shop and he was making braided lines for a MG club and he had left over so he did braided brake lines at the cost of normal rubber ones :( So $60 for new brake lines very nice. So to keep it all neat I got new clips to hold the brake line to the car and all as the original KE15 items were a bit rusty/old.

 

While fitting the brakes I got the original items off and all oiled up and in a box safe in the shed for re-use again one day. But I found where the seal is in the back of the hub that keeps dirt out of the bearings they were so old it was not even touching the axle :( And it looked like the original owner overhauled the bearings in the hub and kept using them..LOL So The stub axle has soem very minor surface rust on it. So I got some 1200 grit paper and polished the sealing surface right up again so it makes a perfect seal. Then fitted new bearings tot he hubs which I wire wheeled and cleaned up. and then I fitted new lock nut thrust washer and all in the wheel bearings so everything is tight, square and new so hopefully wont have any issues down the road.

 

So brakes are all refitted and finished now :) So I will now just got to get a rear brake hose from car to diff the rubber one made out of braided hose also now as if one brake hose on a car is braided they all must be braided. But stops WAY WAY better now :( So happy with it and looks 1 million $ better having some nice calipers no rust on rotors now under my rims.

 

Hope to get the rear hose re-made this week.

 

Cheers

Cameron

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