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Davros' Ke10 4age Project


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Thanks for the feedback boys, your enthusiasm makes me even more amped to get this thing finished.

 

Its been hectic lately - I have been trying to get as much work as I can to pay for the car, but a heap of work has hit at once and I haven't got any time to spend on the beast at all..

 

 

Radrollaz - Yeah dude, I can't help myself. I have already decided that as soon as the car is running and registered its all coming out and the engine bay is getting a full respray.

 

I have just found a friend of a friend with his own shed and spray booth/bake oven so its going there. I would like to get the whole car done, but that will be down the track.

 

 

Oldskool - man I'm hearing you there - it's like the damn domino effect isn't it. At the rate I am going I am going to polish every freakin nut and bolt on the whole car.

 

Btw nice work on the fabrication work for your conversion. I am looking to get a TIG/MIG Inverter soon, and your work is inspiring...

 

 

Jono - I dare say you are right.. I was recently driving a good mate's SR20DET Powered KE55 and the turbo bug is pretty infectious. But i want to focus on getting this N/A engine in there and then

 

see what happens..

Edited by Davros El Davros
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Thanks for the feedback boys, your enthusiasm makes me even more amped to get this thing finished.

 

Its been hectic lately - I have been trying to get as much work as I can to pay for the car, but a heap of work has hit at once and I haven't got any time to spend on the beast at all..

 

 

Radrollaz - Yeah dude, I can't help myself. I have already decided that as soon as the car is running and registered its all coming out and the engine bay is getting a full respray.

 

I have just found a friend of a friend with his own shed and spray booth/bake oven so its going there. I would like to get the whole car done, but that will be down the track.

 

 

Oldskool - man I'm hearing you there - it's like the damn domino effect isn't it. At the rate I am going I am going to polish every freakin nut and bolt on the whole car.

 

Btw nice work on the fabrication work for your conversion. I am looking to get a TIG/MIG Inverter soon, and your work is inspiring...

 

 

Jono - I dare say you are right.. I was recently driving a good mate's SR20DET Powered KE55 and the turbo bug is pretty infectious. But i want to focus on getting this N/A engine in there and then

 

see what happens..

 

 

I havent forgotten about this Davros! Hows it going?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Matty,

 

 

Yeah I haven't forgotten either!

 

But I haven't been around to do much lately - been in Europe for 6 weeks and have just got home.

 

More updates will come as soon as I nail more work on the car - ordering the radiator as soon as I get the measurements right, and also chasing a 100kw stock harmonic balancer -

 

I am not going to risk running the alloy crank pulley I got from Techno Toy Tuning and potentially cracking or breaking the crank because the engine is off balance.

 

Have you got a 100kw smallport harmonic balancer lying around?

 

 

I am also looking at the brakes (seems I am always thinking about the brakes...) Considering mounting the remote booster in the boot.

 

Going to take it out to All Brake and Clutch and get them to recon it for me.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Hey Matty,

 

 

Yeah I haven't forgotten either!

 

But I haven't been around to do much lately - been in Europe for 6 weeks and have just got home.

 

More updates will come as soon as I nail more work on the car - ordering the radiator as soon as I get the measurements right, and also chasing a 100kw stock harmonic balancer -

 

I am not going to risk running the alloy crank pulley I got from Techno Toy Tuning and potentially cracking or breaking the crank because the engine is off balance.

 

Have you got a 100kw smallport harmonic balancer lying around?

 

 

I am also looking at the brakes (seems I am always thinking about the brakes...) Considering mounting the remote booster in the boot.

 

Going to take it out to All Brake and Clutch and get them to recon it for me.

 

Have you sorted your brake out yet man? I've been following your write up with some intrest as I am putting a 3t-gte into a ke11.. So i'm really keen to see where and what brake setup you use as mine will have to be remotley located due to clearance or lack there of!! My donor car is a bit worse off however, or cars! One has heaps of rust, one has none but needs to be straightened. So it'll be cut and shut panels i think.

 

So your going to roll with KE70 struts, hubs n brakes? They'd be Girlock calipers or something? What corolla originally had girlock brakes? As i have 2 later model struts with disks and girlock calipers with my car that fit straight in.

Butttttttt it sat too high even with the pedders springs, so i'm buying a coil over kit from SMCKA on ebay that should fit and allow more adjustment.

 

Does your front still run the leaf spring? I got rid of it and made up some camber adjustable control arms, i can send you some pics if you like??

 

Well best of luck can't wait for more updates!!

 

Connor

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Condog:

 

Ok at present this is my idea for the front struts:

 

Original KE10 struts with aftermarket springs and new inserts, KE20 strut tops to make it sit lower.

 

I am going to put KE70 discs - probably find some slotted ones aftermarket and Girlock calipers so I can run VN Holden Commodore Brake pads. ADM KE55s and KE70s had Girlock calipers.

 

I'll then get a whiteline sway bar, which will have to be modified to fit around the bigger brakes, and then decide if I want to take the front wishbone spring thingo out..

 

I am running a remote booster - at this stage it is either a VH40 or VH44. I have one of each, and just have to get them tested to see which one has better pressure.

 

I was going to put it in the engine bay, but I want the bay to look as nice as possible, so it's getting mounted in the boot.

 

Ill probably just run boosted front brakes and unboosted rears, with a proportioning valve to allow even pressure between the front and back.

 

I would be mad keen, as well as a bunch of others, to see some pics of your setup for sure.

 

You can post them in this thread, or email them to me and Ill post them.

 

 

Darren:

 

Hydraulic clutch setup in a KE10 is an absolute piece of piss..Ke10s have an allowance for a clutch master cylinder thats already in the firewall. I just got a clutch master cylinder that has suitable mounting

 

holes - vertical holes and then made the existing main hole bigger using a die grinder. I then made a hefty 10mm aluminium backing plate that sits inside the firewall, and supports the clutch master from

 

the inside and stops firewall flex. I then had to extend the centre pin of the clutch pedal pivot which was done by welding a high tensile bolt straight on. I then made up a small steel arm that mates to the

 

clutch master with the clevis pin. I am currently using 2 high tensile nuts to tightly clamp the engage arm in place until the whole system is set up, then I will get it all TIG welded so its super strong.

 

Here are some pics of the clutch pedal assembly. Ill post more as I set the whole thing up in the car. But basically by welding the high tensile bolt on then attaching an engage arm off the bolt, pointing

 

downwards to mate to the clutch master piston, it pushes in when you push the pedal in. It also retains the original cable clutch hook on the pedal, if I ever want to go back to a cable clutch setup.

 

 

4age_clutch_master_01.jpg4age_clutch_master_02.jpg4age_clutch_master_03.jpg

Edited by Davros El Davros
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I had pretty much the same idea for the clutch setup.

Drilled a hole in the engage arm to allow a bolt to be used to push the clutch master clevis in.

Can be reverted back as well.

IMG_1918.jpg

 

Still have the issue of a suitable dual brake master which will clear the intake.

Currently looking into going under dash, possibly modifying a commercial van setup without resorting to the expense of a tilton/wilwood. Would also make the engine bay cleaner too without the brake and clutch masters. Example

 

Here's a writeup I've come across regarding brake upgrade. I'm looking to do the same setup but with some slight changes.

KE10 brake upgrade

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Hey Darren,

 

Here are some pics of my clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave. I purchased the master cylinder from a really helpful guy named Goran at Brakewest in VIC.

 

He has an ebay store, and is a cool guy to deal with. It is a fairly generic master cylinder, but here is whats stamped on it:

 

10

 

TVS - Girling

 

T26G

 

And thats it! It is a 3/4 bore, but I may have to get it re-sleeved to suit my slave cylinder which is 13/16. This is not crucial, but the difference in sizes will give a softer pedal feel.

 

I am going down to the brake and clutch place tomorrow so Ill post back up and let you know what the outcome is.

 

4age_clutch_master_04.jpg4age_clutch_master_05.jpg

 

Phife:

 

Thanks for posting that document up - I might add it as a download from the first page of my thread. The guy that wrote it up is an absolute demon with the equations etc.

 

Must have been an engineer or something, or just fluid mechanics guru.

 

I also have been investigating inside firewall setups by both Tilton and Willwood. I found out today that Willwood pedal setups are not road legal in QLD because they have 'For off road use only' stamped on

 

the box. At least this is what a guy at Get Boosted brake specialists in Redland Bay, Brissy told me.

 

I have also been looking at simply rigging up a reverse mounted Willwood twin circuit master cylinder, and then modifying my brake pedal in a similar way to my clutch pedal.

 

However I think there is a much simpler and smarter way I can do it. I was looking at the intake plenum today and where it sits exactly in relation to my master cylinder.

 

Here is a pic for reference:

 

4age_fitting_engine_09.jpg

 

So, my current single circuit master cylinder is about 125mm long (from memory - could be completely wrong). The shortest twin circuit master that I can find, with remote reservoir, is a Willwood one that

 

measures in at around 150mm. I am thinking that I can just drop the vertical position of the brake master cylinder by about 60-75mm, so that it still sits in the engine bay, but lower on the firewall.

 

This would be enough to clear the intake plenum, and would still be fine to rig up through a new hole in the firewall to the brake pedal.

 

I had a look at everything today and I think it's going to work, but if anyone has any opinions please throw them up.

Edited by Davros El Davros
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Phife:

 

Yeah I think these master cylinders are a fairly generic unit.

 

I didn't know that at the time of purchasing mine otherwise I would have gone to repco or supercrap.

 

I rigged everything up today with a really rough clutch line over the top of the engine just to see if it works.

 

I flared all of the ends myself and the system works sweet - no leaks anywhere.

 

The issue now is dealing with the amount of flex in the firewall when the pedal is engaged, and also increasing the amount of throw

 

that the slave cylinder has - it's not pushing out far enough to engage the clutch properly.

 

I am going to increase the length of the clutch slave engage rod, and also change the angle of the engage arm from the clutch pedal.

 

Here is a pic of the pedal in place and attached to the master cylinder:

 

4age_clutch_master_06.jpg

 

 

I have also finally finished the surge tank and pump setup, with all of the braided lines and fittings.

 

I am stoked with the finish of the surge tanks setup and pump bracket, and of course it's been polished to within an inch of its life.

 

Here are some quick pics. I am going to do a full boot lining - probably cut the panels from thin plywood and then cover them with black marine carpet - I want something that

 

will look good but be really hard wearing at the same time. This is intended to be a daily after all...

 

Surge-Tank-Setup-06.jpgSurge-Tank-Setup-04.jpgSurge-Tank-Setup-05.jpg

 

Edited by Davros El Davros
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