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Matts Ke30......sr20det


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Cheers men, yep still rego i will be getting this mod plated, tubs are fine under ncop. i may need a seat belt mounting code as well because the seat belts mount to the wheel tub, really hopeing to aviod that but will see how i go.

Edited by oh what a nissan feeling!
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  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers reed.

 

You're welcome to have the old caltracs, it would just be the arms, the triangles and maybe a few bolts and crush tubes. So you would be missing the spring plates that your u bolts go through. This has the bracket welded to it for the diff end of the setup, this would need to be setup and welded on your car anyway as the arms are not adjustable.

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  • 6 months later...
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  • 6 months later...

Been a long time since i posted in this thread.  Converter is working really well, my logs show around 1000rpm drop on the shift at 8k so the converter is perfect. 

I'm Heading to the drags tomorrow,  doing a private session from 230 then the race ya mate at 430. 

I have been down there twice in the last few months but had some issues to sort out.  Boost control,  timing,  bad starts and a lack of traction. Even a flat battery.

I have done a lot of learning on the traction issue,  one of the key things is to have a minimum of 5" of uptravel in the front. My car had 50mm at best.  So i have changed things around,  I'm a heap closer to standard ke30 struts now, the car drives and handles a heap better, and has over 6" of uptravel at the wheel.  The result for traction has been a big improvement. In the same situation where it would spin before, it now hooks really well. 

Last time i was racing i had the transbrake working but no 2 step so a decent launch was impossible,  as without a constant Rev it would either bog down or kill the tyres.  

2 step now works a treat, will start around 4500 and go up from there. I run a 225 50 15 drag radial on the rear of this car everywhere i go,  it's a 24" tyre, the next step up from there is a 26" and there is nothing in between.  I'm hoping the tyre hooks tomorrow but have my doubts.

 

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10.2 @ 128  1.45 60ft.   Best 60ft of 1.42
We set up the Caltacs when we got there with me in the car,  didn't have to touch them the car went dead straight and launched hard all night. It unsetttled a few times when i hit third so had to get off it, thinking i need a decent size water catch can.  Did 5 runs 4 of them were 10s.

Need to get all ihra teched now, add a bit of boost and run a 9

  • Upvote 1
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Hey that's a great outcome.  I think droop is one of the most under rated suspension concepts especially among the people in the jap scene.

I love my coilovers with helper springs, quite a few situations where a wheel should have popped up I have avoided it and kept my traction, and my old short as possible coilovers would top out sometimes on a ramped up bump like a railway level crossing or a surface change, and that's never happened with this car.  I saw a beautiful girl rolling in a super low ke70 at the fruit shop the other day.  It was a ke70 on its nuts on ssr meshies, assumed boyfriends car.  I happened to see the car later on as I was cruising home and it shook and pitched like a banshee just doing 50klms an hour on pretty decent streets for qld.

 

Time for a parachute?

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I'm amazed how just that alone made such a massive difference. My handling before this was a bit as you described a bit jumpy really, i didn't realize how bad it was until i did this change. Parachute is 140mph+ so i can avoid that but trans sheild, cage tech,  5pt harness and a few other things have to happen now.  Too much $$$ for me atm so it wont be for awhile. 

 

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Hows it steer under power?  Vague?  I've heard of drag racers setting their cars up for max acceleration handling with the back squatted down, IE, having way incorrect toe for normal cruising, but setting it so it hangs straight under full power with the front unloaded so feels better when you are on it 100 percent and has less drag from a better alignment.  Have you considered anything like that?

Edited by LittleRedSpirit
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