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Doogs' Ke20 - Lke020


Doogs

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Hey doogs. What size nozzle, pressure and ratio do you spray at?

 

Hey Parrot,

For acrylic I'm using a 1.8mm tip, 40psi and anywhere between 60-80% thinners depending on whether it's primer or topcoat. It is a little harder in the cold but back when I did the final gloss coats on the body, I was up around the 80% thinners mark. Awesome gloss off the gun but you had to be on your game to avoid runs. The few small 2 pack jobs I've done are 1.4mm tip, 50psi and typically 2:1 and +10% thinners.

Acrylic shits me because it's so soft and requires often wax/polish jobs, when I assembled the car so many edges lifted around bolts (fitting door latch screws etc). Having said this acrylic is very easy to work with and a lot less toxic..

 

I did a bit of 2 pack last year on the car at uni, was awesome once we could get into a booth. So good working in a clean temperature controlled environment, Next big paint job I do will be 2 pack in a booth.

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Yeah I was talking to a very experienced panel beater who runs his own business recently and he was suggesting 1.8 - 2.0 nozzle at about 35 - 40 psi at about 50:50 mix for acrylic. He was saying the same thing about runs.

 

My first go I went about 50psi and about 60/40 paint/thinners, the latter as recommended by the paint shop. But it came out too dry. I'll obviously never do 2 pack.

 

Yours has come up real well, so I might go with your suggestions

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Yeah I was talking to a very experienced panel beater who runs his own business recently and he was suggesting 1.8 - 2.0 nozzle at about 35 - 40 psi at about 50:50 mix for acrylic. He was saying the same thing about runs.

 

My first go I went about 50psi and about 60/40 paint/thinners, the latter as recommended by the paint shop. But it came out too dry. I'll obviously never do 2 pack.

 

Yours has come up real well, so I might go with your suggestions

 

Sweet, acrylic is really flexible with mixing ratios which I love. I remember when I first started out with primer I was getting dry spray, extra thinners fixed that pretty well.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Had a few teething issues over the past week but I managed to get a few run in ks done over the weekend.

The carbs sound awesome and the the power difference is huge even with it yet to be tuned! I'm booked in on the dyno this Wednesday to get it all sorted. The power delivery seems spot on for the street, obviously I haven't revved it out yet but I'm impressed with how hard it pulls early in the rev range.

 

Here's how it sits at the moment, sorting out some filters tomorrow. Clearance is a real problem, only 40mm from carb to strut tower so not much room when you allow for the motor rocking about a bit.

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New KE70 radiator but still a mechanical fan temporarily. I'll be adding a thermofan soon as I do an alternator upgrade

 

New Datsun 240K master to convert to split system brakes, great pedal feel! I just had to shorten the KE20 pushrod a bit, as the factory KE20 one already had thread adjustment it made the process pretty easy.

Bigger brakes and struts to come.

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While it was apart I also freshened up the front end with some 15mm longer LCAs, new balljoints and RA40 tie rod ends (they are a bit longer so I still have plenty of thread engagement). Front grip certainly has improved.

 

Pretty close now, it's good to be almost 'finished' if that even exists haha

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  • 2 weeks later...

Few more teething problems and a slipping clutch later it's finally tuned. I've upgraded to a Carter pump and adjustable reg now which helped a fair bit.

 

Making about 80hp and 85ft/lb with more gains to be made if I remove the mechanical fan and get a better cold air/filter setup. At the end of the day the numbers really mean bugger all, torque comes in strongly fairly low which is pretty impressive for such a small 4 though. :)

 

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Crappy phone vid doesn't do it justice, sounded awesome under load.

 

Edited by Doogs
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  • 2 weeks later...

More clutch trouble unfortunately, flywheel is currently off for modification at the moment to accept a Formula Ford pressure plate.

 

In the meantime I stripped the box down with Matt's help for a new front seal, which as some of you might know this means most of the box apart. So while we were there to do the seal.....

Time for new bearings on the countershaft and input shaft, a thorough clean and a new extension housing seal. The box seemed to be in reasonable condition otherwise, shifted pretty well and just a little whine in 3rd and 5th. Hoping the new bearings will sort this.

 

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PS. Sorry but greasy gearbox hands don't take good pictures!

Edited by Doogs
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Hi mate,

 

just read your valve stem seal clashing problem. I need your help......... i have the same problem. I have installed new valve guides recently. But they are exactly same in lengths as the original guides. valvetrain is stock but the problem is the valve stem seal gets hit by the valve spring retainers. I cannot figure out what is happening. Is it causing by bad length stem seals??? because the rest is stock......... i didn't buy stem seals separately. They came along with the Head replacement kit named as FUJI (made in japan). :hammer:

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Hi mate,

 

just read your valve stem seal clashing problem. I need your help......... i have the same problem. I have installed new valve guides recently. But they are exactly same in lengths as the original guides. valvetrain is stock but the problem is the valve stem seal gets hit by the valve spring retainers. I cannot figure out what is happening. Is it causing by bad length stem seals??? because the rest is stock......... i didn't buy stem seals separately. They came along with the Head replacement kit named as FUJI (made in japan). :hammer:

 

I just sent the head back to the machinist and they skimmed a bit off the top of the valve guide to fix the problem. All good now. I believe there are a few different height seals though, try 4k ones?

 

New clutch is now in and driving well. I gad a new set of holes drilled and tapped to suit the clutch cover, and a few roll pins installed in the flywheel to help locate it. The whole assembly was also balanced afterwards. I now have 192mm clamping diameter instead of 180mm, but a K-T bellhousing and T-50 would have been welcome if I could find one!

 

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Edited by Doogs
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  • 1 month later...

Hi Rollaclub, (that's if there's anyone here and not on facebook!)

 

A few weeks back it was a sad day, the first time the car has let me down and had to be towed home. *Purists pipe in that I should have left it stock* haha

Any other time I've had an issue it's been easy enough to patch up and get home on.

This time; leaking aluminum welch plug at the back of the head (bloody 3kb haha). Thankfully much to everyone's cries that it wasn't doable, I changed the plug in car. Lowered the box crossmember and k-frame with great success. I wasn't going to have the motor out again in a hurry!

 

Since then I had a crack at an R31 strut conversion with some parts I had laying around, as I knew the steering bolt spacing was also 80mm. Whilst this was compatible, the hub/brake sat so far out that even with the weakest offset wheel it would be out of the gaurd. (I'm not flaring this car, more suitable on a KE25 IMO)

So with the 114.3 conversion not happening in a hurry, I needed to sort some wheels quick smart for Classic Japan. Thankfully Dave (TE278U) came to the rescue with some 13x7+0 Rebel's.

 

For something different and a bit louder I decided to paint them Mazda Velocity red (metallic RX8 colour). Fresh tyres and an alignment later and I'm stoked, finally happy with this car! I'll post some more pics in time, but the front end now looks complete. So much more aggressive :)

 

Wheels before and paint stripping;

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I was lucky enough to get a mate to cruise in my MX32 for me;

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Here's a pic Streetstatik took after the event;

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Brakes and diff will be on the way soon with any luck.

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Looks great Doogs :2thumbs: would have liked to catch up with you all at Classic Japan but still have Thomas little beast of the road :down: but with all the parts turning up this week ( Big thanks to STU Kickn5k :2thumbs: ) it should not be to long before its back :yes: even better than is was before . That photo of the street stance looks :kewlpics: "BLOODY COOL AS " and yes performance motors what can I say " BEEN THERE DONE THAT AND STILL DOING IT " :bash: HAHA but all good fun . Cheers :- Stuart :wave:

Edited by TOMMYS Ke 11
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Forgot to mention ! give me " ROLLA CLUB " over Facebook any day Ha-ha and have a good one :thumbsup: . Cheers:- Stuart :wave: Also I think I mentioned in Thomas thread about replacing all welsh plugs when doing rebuilds there not expensive and a lot easer to do with engine out of car but you now have a lesson learnt :2thumbs:and hope that ! that is the only problem you have :yes: . Once again Cheers:- Stuart :wave:

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