Chuggering And Running Like Shit.

[evil00smurk]

Well, still running like poo.

 

 

4 days till her service.

 

Well on my KE30 that happened to me before...I cleaned the carburetor and changed the fuel filter. I purchased new spark plugs and cables and presto the problem was gone... :yes:

[JiP]

I have done all that but changed the spark plugs. That'll get done durring the service on Wednesday anyway.

 

I just hope what ever is wrong wont burn a hole in my pocket.

[Raven]

Whats your distributor cap looking like Jon?

 

When I owned my KE36, it apparently had a blown motor, but upon closer inspection, number 4 lead at the distributor end was corroded ion the inside the number 4 spark plug lead terminal.

 

Also pull out your rotor buton and give it a quick scrape along the concrete to clean off any dirt/build-up that has occured over time.

 

The posts inside the distributor cap - are they corroded/worn away?

 

Hope some of that may help :yes:

[DearmanKE]

yeh, check corrosion of dizzy cap,

check points gap and timeing aswell

for such high octane i assume you are running fairly advanced timeing?

do you always run 98 octane?

because if you usually use 91 and went to 98 and expected it to run better then you should think again, you will need advanced timeing to make 98 octane work properly.

 

also another thing that I'm not sure if it is, but by my crackpot theory could be, your mix is too lean.

and when you accelerate not enough petrol is being put in causeing it to chug and overheat,

 

my ke70 was chugging and shit similar to this,

i set points gap and timeing and all is good now,

also don't just assume that stock timeing is best, if you know how to adjust it just muck around with it, change it, go for a drive, change it, go for a drive

 

trial and error

[JiP]

Lolla's dead.

This morning taking her to the servo and had to stop at the traffic lights about 50m away from the servo when she just died. I was running the fuel low just in case the fuel is the problem. The needle was just under the E and I was under the assumption that from the E to the bottom there was 10Ltrs. Does anyone know for sure?? I tried and I tried and I tried but she wouldn't kick over.

[Hiro Protagonist]

Lolla's dead.

This morning taking her to the servo and had to stop at the traffic lights about 50m away from the servo when she just died. I was running the fuel low just in case the fuel is the problem. The needle was just under the E and I was under the assumption that from the E to the bottom there was 10Ltrs. Does anyone know for sure?? I tried and I tried and I tried but she wouldn't kick over.

 

You trusted the fuel gauge on a KE? Brave, brave man. If I were you, check the float bowl and see if there's any fuel in there, and maybe chuck 5-10 litres into the tank via a jerry can, and crank for your life (stupid mechanical fuel pump). I became a bit of an expert coaxing Billie back to life due to the number of times I ran her dry (fuel gauge never worked even remotely properly)

[DearmanKE]

yeah prosb just ran out of fuel? did you try putting fuel in and tryign again?

 

if its not fuel

check spark,

[Raven]

A little fuel down the carby and kick it over :)

[Taz_Rx]

Or if its still parked 50m from the servo, then just fill the float bowl and that should get you there!! :)

[ke30dude]

You trusted the fuel gauge on a KE?

 

My old ke20 ran out at 1/4 a tank. the ke30 used to run out dead on the E.

 

I wouldnt trust em.... :)

[Falken_KE30]

my fuel gauge was backwards in my old rolla.

E ment it was full, F was empty lol, was only ever right when it was half a tank :y: :)

Edited May 22, 2008 by Falken_KE30

[JiP]

The reason I thought it should have some space under the E is cause when I fill up a full tank, the needle never gets to the F, it always stays off by a millimeter. It was the first ever time I've let it get so low. I guess I'd rather have a full tank rather than empty, so I top up more.

 

Car runs better but they still didn't look at the other issues I wanted addressed.

[Clapped out]

There is one thing if i may suggest john,

 

after reading the thread, obviously i can lean more towards a fuel problem, not too much can go wrong with electronic dizzy's. You say when you put the foot down is when lolla misbehaves at her worst?

 

Just a suggestion, in my opinion i'd unbolt the carby from the manifold and pull the top off of it and have a look at the bottom of the fuel bowl. The secondary throat jet is positioned at the bottom of the bowl. If there were to be foreign materials sitting in the bottom of the bowl and disrupting the fuel feed to the secondary throat, this possibly could cause lolla to "chug", "cough" or "splutter" when the throttle is wide open with the engine under load. don't stress, the factory carby's are basic, if you do decide to pull the top off, just remember to check the float level as well, Also at the same time, check the idle needle as well (long barstard). Spray carby cleaner in all aspects of the carby to remove (if any) the crap. When bolted back on the engine, a good starting point (in my opinion) for the mixture screw is 3 turns out, and go from there. Also recheck timing.

 

Hope this can put some light on the subject for you john,

 

cheers phatke30!

 

ps. Don't forget to replace the base carby gasket when doing this!

Edited May 23, 2008 by phatke30

[JiP]

Hey, thanks for the advice. The cars been fixed. I should have done this myself but never got around to it. Turned out my spark plugs were f@$ked. The mechanic said that in all his years they are the worst his ever seen and was surprised that it was still running.

 

thanks for everyones advice.

 

Fred.

[JiP]

Nope, I was wrong. Problem is back. Its definitely the carbie. :) The carbie died today.