azzy_10 Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 whats your offset on your wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chestikoph1 Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 whats your offset on your wheels They are Konig Rewind's 15x7 with 0 offset. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzy_10 Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 and you put spacers on the front for the rx7 calipers what size are they Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chestikoph1 Posted January 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 and you put spacers on the front for the rx7 calipers what size are they Yes, the spacers are about 4 mm thick and they are to get clearance from outside surface of the caliper to the inside surface of the wheel where the spokes meet the hub mounting area. The calipers are a largish 4 pot design and will need a wheel with as much X factor clearance as you can get. I am using the eg civic rotors, if you use the Mini cooper rotor you wont have this problem because they are a larger rotor and use a larger caliper adapter, that will effectively push your caliper further towards the outer edge of the rim. But you will have to run a minimum 15 inch rims maybe even 16's to clear the caliper. Bit of mucking around but well worth it. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzy_10 Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 could you send me a email with all the specs on the front brakes what you used ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chestikoph1 Posted January 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 could you send me a email with all the specs on the front brakes what you used ? Hi azzy_10, I will pop the info up on here incase any one else is interested in doing the same conversion, maybe the mods may want to put it in the FAQ's or general mechanical, but the info is here any way. If i have put any info that is wrong on here, any one please feel free to correct, add or comment. This info is for use in a ke55, but some or most can be used for other corolla's. Just to clarify this brake upgrade is for use with the AE86 strut and hubs. As far as i know the ae86 struts and hub conversion can be used in most KE/AE cars ( i have even seen it used on a KE10 ) if used with the standard AE86 brakes its a brake upgrade in it self over any KE/AE offerings. When you use the ae86 strut there are so many more performance shock absorber options, because it uses a larger diameter strut tube casing. ( main reason it's used ) As far as i know the king pin inclination isn't too bad compared to the other common swaps, xt130, celica and so on ( there's not as much positive camber ) But it might be a good idea to run some adjustable strut tops top correct any camber issues. As for the strut hight, mine were cut down too suit a short stroke insert and a adjustable coil over set up was used, not too sure how they would be with the standard AE86 spring/spring seat set up. ( i think too tall ) You also need to use the ke55 strut tops ( or use the adjustable strut tops as mentioned before, Cusco #109410A, and Noltec #N44025 are an option for KE25/30/55) The strut top PCD is different on Ae86, but i think it is the same for KE/AE70. AE86 hubs and steering arms need to be used, the arms should bolt up fine to the ball joint and tie rod ends on a KE55, can't be sure on others. ( you can also use power steering arms for more lock) The rotor used is from an EG Honda Civic and it needs to be re drilled to a 114.3 PCD, most brake specialist or machining shops should be able to do this. ( don't try and do it your self !! ) EG Civic rotors are available in slotted and cross drilled and pretty sure they are even available in a two piece performance combo from DBA for the serious racer. Calipers are from a series 4 Mazda RX7, they are an aluminium 4 pot caliper and are a massive upgrade over standard, also a heap lighter than the pug/landcruiser option. ( less unsprung weight = better ) Being from a performance car, they have a heap of after market pad options. To be able to bolt up the caliper you need to use a custom adapter, there are a few guys who sell this item off the shelf locally and over seas. ( too suit either eg civic or mini cooper s rotors ) If you want to know where i got mine from please pm me, i am not going to promote any one specifically. You also need to get your brake lines re done to suit the RX7 caliper. And would recommend upgrading your master cylinder to 7/8 or 15/16 to get the correct pedal feel and effort, off memory a master cylinder from an early model commodor VH/VK will bolt up to the corolla booster. The only thing you will have to do is swap the slanting brake fluid canister for the flat corolla one. ( the lines going in to the master cylinder may have different flared ends to that on the corolla one, mine did ) All this should bolt up fine with out many problems, the only small one i encountered is the clearance from the lower control arm to the rotor, a few taps with the hammer to flatten out the end of the arm fixes that, it only need a few mm, don't hit hard enough to deform where the ball joint sits. Hope that helps, like i said if any one has any corrections or additions don't hesitate to make them. Cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chestikoph1 Posted May 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2012 Not a great deal happening with my car lately, but plans for some more work soon. Need to change front rotors soon, as i have managed to warp mine during a sprint event, probably look at some DBA5000 series rotors. And some different pads, i think mine retain too much heat and that may have cooked the rotors. Also due for some new tyres. here's a couple of shots from some recent cruises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willis Posted May 28, 2012 Report Share Posted May 28, 2012 Maaaan, this thing's just clean. Excellent job. I ʞ©$ɟing love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chestikoph1 Posted December 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 Well it's been ages since the last update! Too busy watching every one else build some epic rides. The cars back off the road for a bit, had an altercation with a water filled barrier at sprint and managed to damage the front right corner. Nothing major. But I have taken the opportunity to change the front rad support to a ke35 one makes it easier to remove the motor when you can unbolt the top of it. And also destroyed the bonnet, guard, valance and bumper. Amazing what you can do at even relatively low speed. Will post up some pics soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willis Posted December 8, 2012 Report Share Posted December 8, 2012 Good to see the car's still being used. Can't wait for some more pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caibs Posted December 12, 2012 Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 beautiful 35 mate. i picked up a sr20de for my panel van the other week and have been planning things in the meantime. who did you get to do your tailshaft? i rang veem the other week but couldn't really get a straight answer from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chestikoph1 Posted December 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2012 I got Phil from Final Drive Engineering, did a great job. You need to have the diff and gearbox in the car and do a quick measure, from memory the distance between the diff flange and the seal on the gear box output shaft. Also be easier if you supply both the ends of the shaft, sr gearbox end and what ever diff uni that you are going to use. And he will knock up the tube and balance it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caibs Posted December 15, 2012 Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 ah great i will give him a yell when its all in. you don't remember roughly what you paid do you? i have both the sr and ke tailshafts. i was just planning on using the stock diff, i'm not putting the motor in for performance- just want efi really. you don't fancy selling the tailshaft from when you were using the stock diff by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chestikoph1 Posted December 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2012 If your gonna run your standard diff, just take him both shafts and ask him to put the sr gearbox end onto the ke shaft. I think it was about $300 to shorten and balance, but don't quote me on that, it was a long while ago. Might have been more. The standard diff will last a while if you baby it, no skids or clutch drops :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caibs Posted December 19, 2012 Report Share Posted December 19, 2012 ah sweet i'll be happy if its around the 300 mark, just going to run the stock diff as i have a spare lying around and don't mind babying it. thats great thanks for the advice man i'm sure i'll shoot you a few questions along the way if you don't mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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