SLO-030 Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Is that after the gasket goo 4k gasket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 if the next sump gasket fails, then gasket goo if that fails THEN WELD (I'm joking I'm not that much of a butcher :) ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob83ke70 Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 next one I do will have some sort of expensive silicone type sealant on a rubber gasket.... mine weeps a little bit, although I think my crankcase pressurises a smidge too much sometimes (at 8000rpm) which could be a drama... when the engine goes in the next car I'm revising the crankcase breathing system and catch can... Robert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 You won't be able to run just gasket goo, no gasket on a K engine. I'd like to see how you go with the crankcase breather rob, that's an interesting point. Although I've just got a filter on the rocker cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tham Posted February 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 Thank you for the info and advice, everyone. I've just bought a gasket and see how it goes. Those of you who still had leaks after replacing the gasket, is there perhaps some nut tightening sequence which has to be followed, like that for the cylinder head ? The other type is an additive which softens the rubber in "hard" seals - ie low km but very old. If the seal is worn out, it obviously won't fix the problem. This type of additive will not do anything bad to your engine. Robert. I had thought that these products contained some kind of sealing compound, which collected in and automatically helped to seal any cracks or crannies in the engine block and gaskets, much like those radiator seal products ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 There might be a sequence, I can't quite remember. The problem with fat rubber gaskets is that you tighten a couple of nuts, go back to the first one and it's loose again. You need to tighten them in very small increments so it all pulls up evenly. Torque settings are very low, like 5Nm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamboo Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 I'm sure you all know this, but I'll say it anyway. Make sure you "tap" down all the bolt holes to make the sump surface flat again. I find the ball from a ballpein hammer and a piece of wood underneath works well. Heat resistant red sealant and the cork gasket. NONE of my sumps leak!! How tight? When you see the gasket just starting to spread...tight enough good luck all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 You could also try that copper gasket cement. Pull the sump and sump gasket out, create an EVEN bead on both sides of the gasket. Let it dry for 5-10 minutes. Once it becomes tacky, fit up the sump with the gasket and tighten in the same sequence used that you would tighten head gasket with. If you're smart enough, remove the stud from the timing cover when the whole thing is off and replace it with a bolt as it makes it much easier if you have to pull the sump out in the future. Cheers and good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 or when you wanna go a cam upgrade you don't need to drop the sump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.