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7Agte 20V Blacktop


_FNQ_rolla_

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Sorry I do not have a clue as to what the colour is called as the old girl had it painted a few years back for her granddaughter but the car was not good enough for her.

 

As for plans, I’ve got big plans for it but for now it lives in the shed and comes out for a leisurely drive on the weekends if the weather is good.

 

Speaking of weather I need to replace the front and rear windscreens and boot rubbers, because they are hard and leak. Where do you get new replacement rubbers as I have seen some on Ebay (not sure of their quality) and there is a place on there called “Phil’s Rotarys” or are all Ebay rubbers the same. Would like to hear where you have got your KE replacement rubbers, are they any good or would you avoid them.

 

If you have found where to get them from could you let me know some names of businesses and phone numbers.

 

As this thing progresses there will be more pictures and a bit of a write up.

 

not sure if you have a 'clarke rubber' over there but ive heared they have them.

also windscreen places have them aswell. (most only fronts though)

and ive heared some of the overseas stuff doesnt last

good luck

tidy car :P

Edited by lumina78ke55
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not sure if you have a 'clarke rubber' over there but ive heared they have them.

also windscreen places have them aswell. (most only fronts though)

and ive heared some of the overseas stuff doesnt last

good luck

tidy car :P

 

 

Thanks for the good words,

 

and as for the rubbers, I bought both front and rear from "phils rotaries" about 2 months ago and they are just sitting in the boot as i have not got around to doing anything with them ...... but then the car has been sitting in the shed and not has moved in over 3 months

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Hey mate hows the front brake upgrade going?? any pics

 

 

There has been a lot behind the scenes going on since I last updated.

 

My first intentions were to fit the Nissan calipers to the Corona struts, which worked fine but the inner of the wheels would touch the calipers. I would have to move the wheels out 15mm to make them work with the Nissan caliper (I'm not a wheel spacer fan) so that’s the end of that idea.

 

post-10153-1282476387_thumb.jpg

 

 

So plan 2.

 

I wanted something that was easily available for a caliper, that did not have so much of an overhang like the Nissan 4 pot calipers. So I had a look at a dirty old VE Commodore twin pot calipers (I'm thinking that I could make this happen).

 

Drew up some pictures on CAD and they looked ok with the inner profile/shape of the wheel that I wanted to use.

 

Cut out some plates using the laser. Then I set them up in the mill to make them to the profile that I needed.

 

post-10153-1282476431_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Finished Adaptors, straight out of the paint oven.

 

post-10153-1282476512_thumb.jpg

 

 

Test fit to check for bump steer and if they interfere with anything.

 

New Brake set up

 

post-10153-1282476557_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Old Brake set up

 

post-10153-1282476587_thumb.jpg

 

 

Some comparisons of different size disc rotors.

 

Honda NSX vs Crown vs Corolla (KE35)

 

post-10153-1282476649_thumb.jpg

 

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NSX vs Corolla (KE35)

 

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This is the setup that I used to make up the front brakes.

 

Corona ST141 Strut

 

Corona steering arm (which was need to bolt onto the KE35 LCA/ Ball joint)

 

Adaptor plate to bolt to the strut / VE Caliper

 

 

During the planning / development of this brake up grade there has be several photos / CAD drawings and phone calls to the closest engineer that can approve this which is over 4hrs.

 

I found that if you can make your upgrades / proposals look professionally an engineer is happy to deal with you.

 

 

Here’s a sneak preview of the mags

 

 

post-10153-1282476877_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Thanks for dropping by and having a look.

Edited by _FNQ_rolla_
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Would you be interested in making a copy of your adaptors for a price sir? Cause i'm in the very slow process of putting a turbo 3rz into a ke36 wagon and it will be in need of a brake upgrade, if you are interested in helping me out can i get you to send me a pm, cheers Justin

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I love the workmanship, the only drama you'll have is the struts have the wrong kinpin angle for a KE. ST141 and RA60 struts are the worst struts you can fit to a KE. Bad if you like corners, they change the scrub radius of the tyre and most people end up putting XT130 corona or AE86 struts once they realise they've ruined the front end geometry. I bet this car has epic positive camber at the moment. Sorry for being a bringer of bad news, but if you're putting a powerful engine in the car I assume you'll want to get the handling right.

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I love the workmanship, the only drama you'll have is the struts have the wrong kinpin angle for a KE. ST141 and RA60 struts are the worst struts you can fit to a KE. Bad if you like corners, they change the scrub radius of the tyre and most people end up putting XT130 corona or AE86 struts once they realise they've ruined the front end geometry. I bet this car has epic positive camber at the moment. Sorry for being a bringer of bad news, but if you're putting a powerful engine in the car I assume you'll want to get the handling right.

 

Geeeeez, and to think that I thought I did all of my homework.

 

Things that I checked were;

The kingpin angle to the strut ~ same between the KE35 and the ST141.

Overall length of the strut/spring setup

Edited by _FNQ_rolla_
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you can get longer LCA's camber tops and get the strut bent...

i used mx62 cressida struts and with ra65 arms i ended up with +2.5 degrees camber. scrub radius is ok.

i got sigma LCA's in and it brought me back to -.5 but i reckon with cambertops like the otomoto ones and coilovers i could use the stock arms and offset the camber plate to achieve

neg camber again. but yes the xt130 will be good.. there is a thread on toymods somewhere which compares struts... i think is was ta22 struts will actually give neg camber to start with.

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BTW swapping the steering arms you end up stuffing the ackerman effect too.

 

What people forget is the lower arm in all these earlier rwd toyotas are very similar in length. What changes between the models is how close the struts towers are together. So they made a strut/ steering armo combo that's gemotry suits that car.

 

By adding longer arms you're putting the hub at the correct angle, but in doing so you're spacing the hub further away from the car you've got the lower arm starting to point up in a lowered car. Then you need RCA's that are so tall that the control arms almost rub on 15" wheels to get rid of the bump steer.

 

Sux that Ae86 driving club has been deleted too many times, so the threads with piles of people dumping there RA60 or ST141 gear from about 6-7 years ago are long gone.

 

I remember slydar saying some other steering arm helped, might be worth searching for, but even the efficency of the shock is reduced when the shock isn't upright...

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What changes between the models is how close the struts towers are together. So they made a strut/ steering arm combo that's gemotry suits that car.

 

 

Yes that make sense to me because I thought that I was onto a winner with the strut to stub angle being equal between the KE35 and the ST141 but I did not take into consideration the distance of the top two strut towers.

 

Thanks Mr Beerhead

Edited by _FNQ_rolla_
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