altezzaclub Posted March 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 Well, it runs! Haven't driven it yet as I can't get the gearbox filler plug out and I don't know if it has g'box oil in. The T50 has the world's worst designed g'box filler!! The worst option is to drain it and fill it through the gearlever, but the trim is all re-installed so I'd have to be desperate. I've been starting it just to check systems... such as hours spent checking my wiring because the charge light stays on, only to find the solution was to change alternators! I'll have to wait until I get back home to find enough time to write an update, I need to get things finished tomorrow as I need to catch it all before my 3month rego overdue period runs out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 I've had quite a few Toyota gearboxes with stuffed fill plugs. I just always fill through shifter now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 (edited) OK! It runs and its just driven the 550km home!! Not dead right, a few teething problems, but it is just the way the car SHOULD have been produced! Toyota would have sold millions of them. It doesn't feel particularly fast unless the revs are up over 4500, but it is effortless in climbing hills. The temperature sits at the halfway mark, between the "e" and the "m" and doesn't move. Maybe the thermostat is set that way. It heats up sitting at roadworks and I'll get the fan thermoswitch fitted when it arrives. Slightly heavier in the steering, it doesn't dance around like it used to. Still a great car to drive in hilly country and once you turn the steering at the beginning of the corner you can hold the wheel still and change direction with the accelerator. The clutch is heavier, as is the gearlever. The T50 is not as nice and slick as a K50. Its noisy from the exhaust, I think 2" is bigger than it needs to be. You wouldn't think so living in Sydney perhaps, but after 5 or 6hours you don't want it. The cat converter has Nissan on it, and a 3" pipe into it, so its off something like a Maxima and plenty big enough for a 4AGE. Not as economical as the 4K, it does 7.9L/100 instead of 6.9. The difference is the extra 10 kph in speed and better hill work. The idle is erratic, sometimes sticking at 1500rpm, sometimes dying right back and stalling. It suffers from over-run snatch too, just touching the throttle when cruising around town where you just have your foot off. That very slight delicate transition seems to be difficult, the same with the SU carbs. Probably both problems are air leak ones. So, it would be much easier the next time around, I'll write up a new topic on how I did it. This would be one of the cheapest conversions ever done- excluding the motor and gearbox, the rest came from the wrecker or random cars around the farm. Exhaust headers- Commodore VL or VK, can't remember. Exhaust pipe & cross-member, some keen AE71 owner who had a 1.25" stock pipe across the car into a 2" system. Air filter box- Daewoo EFi/COR relay box- Daihatsu Radiator fan- Mitsi Mirage (got the radiator and the other fan too, didn't use them) Catalytic converter- some Nissan Surge tank- Subaru fuel filter Wiring plugs and wiring- Celica and Camry Fuel pumps- Holden ones The wrecker probably cost me under $200, the fuel pumps were new from Melbourne for $130, & I just stole the rest from Steve's cars at the Woolshed! I think everyone who has a KE70 should do it! Edited March 16, 2016 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 I'm working on it! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parrot Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 (edited) The over run may be a fiddled with dashpot on the throttle body. A lot of the idle issues are down to not running the idle up circuit, so running various accessories, lights etc really messes with the idle. Most people try and get round this by cranking the idle speed up which causes other problems. For years I got used to sitting with one foot blipping the throttle at lights ready for the sudden stall. When I eventually fitted the idle up circuit as part of the charge loom, transformed the car. Edit, there is also a small air bleed in the throttle body intake just where the butterfly closes. This often gets clagged up. A good clean of this can also do wonders. If you struggle obtaining the gaskets, you will find them in the gasket library. The ICSV gasket is a couple of mm thick. Edited March 18, 2016 by parrot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 (edited) This often gets clagged up. Yeah, I saw the mudwasp coming out of the TB one day!! I will start with a good strip and clean... I've posted a new topic to cover the engine swap itself, over here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72583-4age-into-ke70-2016/page__gopid__703745#entry703745 Edited March 25, 2016 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Pretty much the last job done- fitting the thermoswitch in the rad hose to earth out the relay and turn on the fan. Now to sort the idle out and get it engineered. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Thought I'd tackle the high and varying idle before engineering. Its fine when cold, terribly high when warm, which suggests the waxstat cylinder in the cold idle air control. It is small when cold and lets extra air into the TB, then as the water warms up the wax expands and closes off the bleed hole, which it stops doing after 20years. You can put your finger over the bleed hole in the TB when the motor is warm and suddenly the idle speed drops. Nippon Denso haven't made the units for decades, and the ones for sale in the USA are $US250-$US300. Of course Alibaba have them for under $10 if you buy 200... As a distraction I re-filed the hole in the TPS actuator, as someone had fitted a TPS off another car & it sat at 90deg to what it should. Now it doesn't have a flatted circle to grip the flatted shaft, but I figure it takes such little force to turn the actual TPS piece, the clamping grip of the nut will be enough to hold the actuator in place. If I'm wrong I'll lose open throttle position slowly and have to fix it properly! Then off with the TB and take the idle control off that. A run through water of varying temperature showed it does expand and close down the hole, but I can't tell if it seals it. It has that size hole when the motor is cold, then should close up like this. A guy in the MR2 forums did a brilliant bit of work on his and explained the whole system. He made a tool to adjust the end plate that the waxstat seals against so he could screw it further in. This sorts out the problem that plagues nearly all the 1980s 4AGEs by now. I knocked up a wooden one out of a stray bit of hardwood, but that disc has aged in there tight! That was a complete fail, as was trying to hammer it around with a cut-down allen key! So I might have to talk to my local engineer about making an 8-pronged cylindrical tool for this. Anyone have one?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Well, for $100 the engineer made me a tool and we screwed the round plate further down. That seems to have solved the idle problem, although it is further down than stock as it doesn't idle at 2000rpm as soon as you start it. Then I tackled the 'cutting out and dying when hot' problem that has surfaced recently. It just leans out when idling and dies, and sometimes when driving. I popped the hose off the feed end of the main pump to drain the surge tank into a jar, and nothing came pouring out! It trickled and trickled after a moment, until I realised it was siphoning from the fuel tank. Then I had The Girl run the lift pump while I got underneath with the jar and pulled the hose from the tank off the fuel line... nothing agian! Yet I could hear the pump running! The next step was to take the sender unit out in the boot and look inside the tank, and as I couldn't see a lift pump at all I had to drop the tank! Finally I could see the problem! So it is all back together again with screw clips instead of clamps, and we will see how it goes tomorrow. If nothing else, it shows that the main pump can suck from the boot to the front, just not very well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Well, its been running fine for a few weeks, down to Sydney for engineering and back. I'll ask the engineer if he wants his name mentioned, but I found him a great guy and he was OK with the overall car. Since then I've picked up a pair of new tyres and passed a sliding plate brake test here at the local Toyota dealer, so its just paperwork now. The idle still isn't right over the whole range, so I'll take a bit off the waxtat over the next few weeks. Its not heating up with short trips in Orange's winter temperatures, so I have a fine cold idle but it might be different in summer . It will get sorted eventually, and I'll add an idle-up circuit to cover the alternator drain when the headlights are on. I paint-stripped one of the factory alloy wheels, but haven't found a way to clean up the oxidation and staining that got under the clear coat. Then The Girl said she's like the 14x6 Cheviots on when these tyres run out, so we'll concentrate of refurbishing them instead. Always something to do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2016 Got the paperwork, so all done! Thankyou to Ian Carpenter at Kreative Enterprises in Windsor! A great guy with a fascinating background in hotrods and modifying cars. I'm back up to Walcha tomorrow to swap cars again, in the snow apparently... Rally Sweden! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted June 24, 2016 Report Share Posted June 24, 2016 Enjoy the yumps :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 Well, up and back over a week, working on the RA40 we have to sell. Bought The Blue Beast back & left the Golden Hoomicorn in a barn. Pete & I shake hands and he goes off to feed mooies while I head for Orange, about 10am, heading for Tamworth to gas up.No red light yet so these 4AGEs are really light on fuel.... Get 10minutes down the road and the Beast loses power... goes onto 3 cyl, then 2cyl, so I stop. Fuel needle is just on empty and no red light, electrics all look OK. Thinking the intank pump may have dropped off the pickup pipe again, I take the fuel level fitting out of the tank and look inside with a torch. Dead empty! So the fuel needle on this car is nothing like the gold car, which goes way below empty, and the light doesn't work! But that pump sure empties the tank completely! Hitch back to the farm, kick the fuel cans in the shed (empty) and dig out Miss Leone Subaru. Drive up to the Woolshed & siphon 4L out of the Hoonicorn. Get back to the bottom farm & find Pete there, so we head out in the Slowdeo and put the fuel in. Beast fires up and away we go. Finally get around to stripping it today, and the inside of the sensor for the light is borked.. Just a resistor that is immersed in fuel, absolutely nothing on the net about them. I'll grab one off another KE70 and hopefully that fixes it, my trips are 550Km plus running around at the end, so I rely on the light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted August 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 Well, up to Kingaroy with Steve to work on my rental up there, another 1700km of pleasant motoring at 7.3L/100. Left it at the farm in the tractor shed and boght home the Hoonicorn. 550km in the same car with a 4K certainly brings out the advantage of the 1600cc !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted December 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2016 Well, I drove the Hoonicorn for a couple of months, then I swapped them back as the Hoonicorn developed a leaking heater. I drove the Beast for 6weeks then took it back up while we remade the car trailer we had inherited and then left it up there. Next job is an alloy rad from Ebay, I've finally decided to bite the bullet and buy one. The stock one has worked well, but a hot day trip to the coast and back showed it really battled to drop the temperature around town in traffic. Still no red fuel light and still a treacherous idle when warm, but I'll get around to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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