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The Girl's Ke70


altezzaclub

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Nope, it looks like they are-

"Part No: 25-3434(PAIR)   TOYOTA COROLLA 81 - 85 KE70"

As it happened, they couldn't get hold of them (of course they never actually had any..) and sent Gabriels plus a pair of rack ends for the money I'd paid.

I'm happy with that,   99autoshop on Ebay,  they seem fine.

 

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  • 3 months later...
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Well, I'm stopping at an intersection and the car dies as it idles.. not unusual, the cams give it a rough idle, but this time it was 3 cylindered and it stayed that way the couple of minutes home.  So I spent a week chasing the problem until I was due up at Woolshed rallying, and this happened..1705093878_ABluecarontrailer.thumb.jpg.57a3b9614c381f691beecafcf2c581ec.jpg

Steve to the rescue and we headed up to Walcha.  It was head off time, to find a perfect fossilised imprint of a phillips screw in the top of a piston-

1379259824_AScrewfossil.thumb.jpg.f7174288aa9c805027ede4d3a4c7291e.jpg

One of those experiments with the idle speed had got out of the cage some months before, and the screw had popped in, got stuck beside a valve and on the next stroke jammed the valve and bent it!

So a couple of valve seats got recut, a new valve and a precautionary skim, and its back together, sitting outside on the verandah ready to drive home tomorrow.

831503466_Beastreadytogo.thumb.jpg.c578befb5043e84f463b40c43daa1a05.jpg

Of course it didn't take the month I've been up here, but that story is in How To build a Rally Car,  or better named, the 465th reason we are not rallying!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Over 6months of faultlessly running up and down to Woolshed Rallying at 1100km a time, and my wiring finally caught up with me!

Out in the middle of the countryside it died pulling away from a railway crossing. The wiring for the idle-up valve that goes into the airbox must have swung back and been caught by the water pump boss, then torn off and shorted out. It runs off the same ciscuit as the injectors, so the motor instantly died.

A young guy driving from Melb up through NSW to the Gold Coast stopped for a hand, he was  mechanic and had everything in his ute, but it just needed a new injector fuse and a wiring tidy-up. What I also found as I pulled a plug lead off to check if we were getting spark was that the leads have gone brittle down in the valley of the head.  So its running a nice blue Nissan lead on #1 at the moment!

 

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  • 2 months later...

Well, I finally got down to the wrecker and took a look around for plug leads. The Nissan lead had been doing well, but I found a set on a Mazda Astina that fitted fine.

182059224_Newplugleads.jpg.09394db588a2d230f85a05a13447a085.jpg

Put this in your notebook, because the Takumi tax on these things is pretty steep!!

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Still trying to sort wheels, although I've bought the 14" tyres. Just can't decide which set of alloys for the Datsun 1600 & which for the KE. Wheelnuts and washers for both sets are a pain, they're 17mm shanks while everything these days is 18.3mm.

 

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Nice score on the leads, although i think it's probably more supply vs demand than takumi tax. How many more of these Mazda/Ford motors do you still see, compared to the 4ages? 

Still love the budget factor of this car, keeps reminding me of the $1250 blower/efi setup I had on my ke11. 

You need a thread for the 1600, I'd be all over it. Hey speaking of L series I've got an early L16(the ohc 1600 one) cam cover if you're interested, I'd slide it over for postage. I have zero use for it, car is for sale and it will never see another L series.

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  • 1 month later...

Well, another year of these 1000km trips every few weeks & it died again! Somewhere North of Premer it lost power so I stopped & turned it off to check it, and while everything looked OK it wouldn't restart. Cranked fine, fired occasionally, but never caught. So I ph'd Steve and he picked me up that night with a trailer. One odd thing happened.. With traffic of a car every 10minutes of so I was dozing in the pitch black when I heard a ghostly rattling & clanking approaching. There wasn't a thing to see, and as I wound the window down a completely lightless old Landcruiser crept past at 20kph towing a ruined old farm trailer! Not even dash lights! They turned off just past me & I could hear them clanking away through the scrub for 10 or 15minutes afterwards.

So, we did a compression test & they were all 90-100psi. To check the gauge we tested Mao's 4AGE & that is all 190-210! I took the head off and there is a lot of soft carbon on the piston tops. The bores look fine, no lip on the top and no vertical scouring to suggest broken rings.

1685565653_carbonypistons.thumb.jpg.411b91cbdba06a80bf37017e3414464b.jpg

The combustion chambers are the same-

1936894663_carbonycombustionchambers.thumb.jpg.416b56eed269d3a61b126eb72c7ce9a5.jpg

and once I pulled the valves out the loss of compression showed with carbon particles on the exhaust valve seats. The inlets I could've put straight back in they were so clean, but I gave them all a whizz with sandpaper and a quick grind.  I'll assemble it this weekend and buy a borescope to keep an eye on it for the next year. I was most impressed with aaapowerparts on Ebay, $113 bought me a full gasket set with new bolts!

valves being cleaned.jpg

carbony pistons.jpg

carbony combustion chambers.jpg

valves being cleaned.jpg

Edited by altezzaclub
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Not a clue about the root cause.  The motor came out of a guy's race car, so it has the biggest cams you can fit without new valve springs, and I thought maybe they give a low compression at cranking speeds. Cam timing looked OK, I'll dig a up a photo in a moment. The catalytic converter was suspected, but that is as clean as a whistle. Those Mazda leads I wondered about, but their resistance is within the range of Toyota leads. Running rich..? I've got the mixture display in there and it is impressive how much time it spends on 14.7, leaning out going downhill. Maybe the oxy sensor is suspect. I'm loath to pull the bottom off and pop the pistons, given the bore condition and the rare times I add oil between changes, but the carbon is coming from somewhere.

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Here's how I set it up last year when I had the head off. The camera 'fish-eye' effect makes it seem like both teeth are past their marks, but counting the teeth showed it to be correct. Of course with hot cams you could run different timing to be better, but a tooth out would be a big difference compared to adjustable cam gears.

13 belt teeth between dots.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, its been weeks working on it now and then, but it was finally assembled yesterday.. and didn't start!  I checked one cyl and it had 150psi, which shows what hot cams do at cranking speed compared to stock cams in Mao at 200psi. Long story short, I swiped the coil & igniter off Ronnie's 4AGE, he hasn't done the conversion yet, and tried the coil. That didn't make it spark, so I tried the igniter as well, and THAT didn't work! So i went through all the testing in the manual, which showed the dizzy sensors for iGf and iGt were OK, the coil had a fine low-voltage side but the resistance on the high-voltage circuit was high (it was a stock 4k coil..) so I fitted Ronnie's one properly, and I measured the wiring from the ECU to the igniter. The final test is to put 3volts into the pink wire of the igniter and see if the coil sparks... which it did! So i hooked it all up and it ran!

Fked if I know, maybe it needed to be reminded that it was an igniter, or maybe there is some really subtle intermittent fault in a wire that I'm about to discover on the trip home.  Maybe the coil got hot on the trip up and couldn't keep going.. It was old and corroded inside the high-voltage contact.

Anyway, now I know a lot more about 4AGE igniters, and tomorrow it needs the ignition timing checked. Seems to be running rich too, I can check that on the mixture display when its tuned. Maybe that's where the carbon comes from, the oxy sensor has been lying to me and the cleanup this time has sorted it out. I re-did all the manifold and exhaust joints and tidied up quite a few little things.

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Well, it drove back to Orange without problems, except for a plug lead jumping off the dizzy in the first 5minutes. I'll buy a new coil & put Ronnies back, and watch for carbon buildup in the cylinders.  Maybe drive it harder too, I did glance down when overtaking one time & saw 7000rpm, and it sounded no different to 5000rpm, so its amazingly smooth and enthusiastic. Well over my usual 3300rpm cruise for hour after hour.  Back up in a couple of weeks!

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  • 1 month later...

While I was back the girls complained about the Altezza using too much fuel. I took a pair of plugs out to check, and took a pair of the new iridiums out of the KE70. The Altezza plugs looked fine, the KE70 were black!

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On the next trip up I had the mixture display on the 4AGE and saw that it was rich all the time. I stopped a couple of times, took the cold start injector off in case it was jammed on, but no difference. Then I moved the throttle position sensor around a whisker, and it leaned out!  Up at the workshop I took a pair of plugs out and they had cleaned up.

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Wayyy back I had modified the bracket that the last owner put on the TPS to use a FWD throttle on a RWD. I figure the sensor ring has turned on the shaft a little, and that was sending incorrect information to the ECU. I should look at it while I'm at home for a couple of weeks, but its running so well & has a more stable idle than ever before, I'm reluctant to disturb it!  I figure it has been getting worse over the years, which is why the head was always full of carbon.

I didn't put the cold start injector back on, and it made no great difference over a couple of weeks of hard frosts and a couple of days of snow.

Edited by altezzaclub
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