ke70dave Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 (edited) very cool members car mate, i love the innovation. i also like the idea of mechanical spark advance control (advancing off boost, and advancing less on boost) with the turbo, taz rx and I were having a bit of a convo about this not long ago, we think it could be done relatively "Easy" with a few strategically chosen and positioned vacume/boost actuators, tuning might be a pain though.... can't wait to see what you come up with though. Edited August 18, 2010 by ke70dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 You don't need the mechanical advancement on boost, as the timing needs to be backed off. The BTM unit lets you run normal mechanical and vacuum advancement for off-boost drivability. Then as soon as it sees boost it'll stant pulling out timing at your present ratio being 1, 2 or 3 degrees of timing per psi. So if you're running 15psi you can have between 15-45 degrees of retarding. Mechanical advancement should get up to about 40*, so I think 1* per psi should be fine. Then at full revs on boost you'll be running around 25* which is pretty much perfect. Only problem with the BTM's is they're around $700 retail. If you can get mates rates somewhere you could probably get one for around $400. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevejw Posted August 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 (edited) You don't need the mechanical advancement on boost, as the timing needs to be backed off. The BTM unit lets you run normal mechanical and vacuum advancement for off-boost drivability. Then as soon as it sees boost it'll stant pulling out timing at your present ratio being 1, 2 or 3 degrees of timing per psi. So if you're running 15psi you can have between 15-45 degrees of retarding. Mechanical advancement should get up to about 40*, so I think 1* per psi should be fine. Then at full revs on boost you'll be running around 25* which is pretty much perfect. Only problem with the BTM's is they're around $700 retail. If you can get mates rates somewhere you could probably get one for around $400. Yep I know the timing needs to be retarded as the boost increases .I have another idea for that just at this stage with std compression it has to be retarded a far bit to stop detonation & the bit of playing I have done so far indicated the hp increased a far bit with a little more advance .First I want to stop the detonation hopefully to the point that I can advance to where the hp drops without detonation .Then put it on a dyno find the correct advance/retard curve & go from there .To retard it I'm going to make /modify the vac advance to retard from boost reference .Being a fitter & Turner I can turn up a new bell (will need need to be very small in diameter 15psi will have a lot of force may even be just a small shaft & o ring seal )for the advance give it enough travel & change springs to suit. A bit of mucking around but it is easy to work out how much travel is needed to retard 1deg. Then say it is 1mm per deg to be able to retard 20 deg’s I’ll need 20mm travel & the correct diaphragm & spring to give 1mm travel for every psi .Sounds simple but I know it will be a nightmare getting the right spring to do what I want . The rate of retarding you suggest above is right on the mark and I’ll be aiming at those figures. Anyway there is a lot of work there to do as I get things sorted I'll post up the results. Thanks for the input Cheers Steve Edited August 19, 2010 by stevejw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 Pretty much what Dave and i were discussing via PM. :D Dave - Can you cut and paste our conversation from PM into Steves thread here (including my dodgy paint pic)? I'm flat out at work and don't have time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny boii Posted August 21, 2010 Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 (edited) hey man completely new to toyotas ( well this old anyways ) just bought a ke70 rolla with a 5k 5 speed in it. I'm looking to turbo it asap so here is my questions if you wouldnt mind answering them :( 1. how much $$ we talking obviously depending on what i get the turbo for but I'm talking more like carby setup, fabricating the manifolds. 2. were did u get the fabricating done? 3. were or how do u get a carbon sealed turbo can u rebuild a normal turbo with different seals? how does that work? 4. do u run a BOV? 5. i wanna run a ally rad and thermos would i have to up grade my water pump at all? 6.were do u tap the oil line or are u just running a sandwhich plate and if so is that sufficient? thanks man and obviously if i have missed anything else that needs to be done please let me know because i am keen as and have the cash to do this soon I'm located in WA :D kind regards JAI Edited August 21, 2010 by johnny boii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan G Posted August 21, 2010 Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 +1 for what type of carbon seal turbo you running? and very keen for a set of manifolds! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevejw Posted August 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 (edited) hey man completely new to toyotas ( well this old anyways )just bought a ke70 rolla with a 5k 5 speed in it. I'm looking to turbo it asap so here is my questions if you wouldnt mind answering them :( 1. how much $$ we talking obviously depending on what i get the turbo for but I'm talking more like carby setup, fabricating the manifolds. 2. were did u get the fabricating done? 3. were or how do u get a carbon sealed turbo can u rebuild a normal turbo with different seals? how does that work? 4. do u run a BOV? 5. i wanna run a ally rad and thermos would i have to up grade my water pump at all? 6.were do u tap the oil line or are u just running a sandwhich plate and if so is that sufficient? thanks man and obviously if i have missed anything else that needs to be done please let me know because i am keen as and have the cash to do this soon I'm located in WA :D kind regards JAI Hi I made everything myself so no idear what it would cost to get it done by someone. I'm thinking about building a couple manifold kits to sell but that will be in the future & have no idear on price yet.The turbo has to be be rebuilt with a carbon seal fitted .I got the T25 for $200 & a carbon seal rebuild kit for $100 .I rebuilt it myself quite easy but maybe a bit too much if you haven't done anything like that before. T25 has internal waste gate up grade water pump ? why? oil is taken from oil filter houseing .I drilled & tapped a new port into my houseing but you can just T into the oil pressure sensor Edited August 21, 2010 by stevejw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny boii Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 hey man thanks alot for the info. I'm a mechanic by trade so the turbo rebuild isnt a issue (haha i already started looking it up and realised thats what u have to do so turbo and rebuild kit have been purchased) i was just wondering depending on wether or not the rad is bigger it would struggle to push threw it? only a question ahah were do u find a draw through carby? and what did u go with? cheers JAI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLW42 Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 were do u find a draw through carby? and what did u go with? cheers JAI it says he is using a standard carby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninja-philbo Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 nice il have a new little rolla soon will be copying your setup just for abit of fun so expect afew pm's mate your a champ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kezzar Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 I'm pretty unexperianced, but are u able to go to your local turbo/exhaust fabricator shop (stock carb and 4k) and ask then do it for you, if so what would you say a rough quote would be,and would it be a big difference in power running 4/5 p boost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 Love the turbo install, very trick setup : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbey Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 Steve, cool ride man. I was scratching my head for a moment thinking you'd plugged your turbo in the wrong side of the carby DERP. Haha. What a beast, makes me want to turbo mine now! forget the old MSD BTM, just run the new MSD 6AL-2 Programmable. Finally they've updated all their analogue circuitry and bettered the Crane gear. Digital baby. Curve control and boost retard using a MAP sensor to program. I'm going to the US in January, I'm going to pick up two of these, one for the wagon and one for the 911. Depending on luggage I might be bringing back a couple of them to sell as well. 360 bucks US, but they're about 50 to ship them to Aus (that's what Summit quoted some months back). But that's much cheaper than the 700 the local retailers are asking for them (surprise, 100% markup, stick it Gerry Harvey) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6530/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevejw Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 About time I did a bit of an update .I replaced the std carbie with a 34adm weber from a 4.1 falcon as I made the manifold to suit that carbie .It improved the boost & power straight away as the std carbie was a bit of a restriction. I've added a manual boost control & can easily take it past 20psi now the std carbie would only let me get 15 . I've replaced the 5k head with a well ported 4k to lower the compression .Some problems have poped up .The clutch is not happy a HD one is to be fitted & the normal manifold gaskets not liking the boost but all just little things to sort out as I get time .Attached is a pick after a bit of hard running the manifold is still glowing red as I let the motor idle & cool down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teddy Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 hahahah shit eh, keep an eye on that one =D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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