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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.


LittleRedSpirit

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Hello.

 

As some people know, I've been interested for a long time in fitting a 2azfe to an ae71 or ae86.

 

It's something I've given a lot of thought to, but now I've made some progress and would like to use this as a place to collect my thoughts/information that I learn along the way so I don't forget what I did or how I did it.

 

So far I've collected a lot of what I should need.

 

I have:

2azfe

2azfe clutch, flywheel, inlet, tb, loom, coils, alternator, starter, exhaust manifold/cat, and fwd transfer case.

2azfe lightweight pulley kit.

2azfe inlet manifold flange from ross machine racing.

Various starters to suit rwd config.

Y and S bellhousings to suit w55-w58.

W57 from a RT142 Corona.

 

Unknown factors.

Bellhousing/starter/flywheel compatability and alignment.

Source for rwd mounts if any exists.

Clutch combination.

How to fit a starter when it has no provision for front facing starter.

Sump design, lowest point drainage and oil pickup design for rwd.

Engine bay fitment/ bonnet clearance.

Shifter position.

 

Why?

Its the same weight as a 4age, even with the w box and centre of gravity is more than likely improved.

800cc extra capacity, with a possibility of up to 2.7 litres with a stroker kit.

Standard power output of 125 KW and 220NM at the flywheel. Same as a stock smallport gze more or less, but from a motor with low end torque and no lag or Boost related issues.

Why not, I've seen one done before and I believe it is still unfinshed. Its in the US and I've only ever found one photo of it. Some Formula Drift guy is using it in an ae86 one day apparently, but other than that its a rare idea.

Its a very common engine.

With boost its capable of 450-500KW with the right built engine. Its not as much as a 2jz but its a lot from an alloy lightweight motor, it weighs half a 2jz.

Heard of stock bottom ends getting 400 hp before exploding from the boost.

Cheap performance parts. Sub $500 CP/JE forged pistons. Sub $500 forged rods. BC Cams are cheap, Supertec parts for them too, lots of good gear, and 11:1 pistons if you want.

 

I initially looked at the motor to see where the starter could go and what bell housing would fit. The S housing meets the meaty part where the S starter used to be on the 2azfe block. However cutting that metal away would remove the engine number. Also this would have the slave on the passenger/exhaust side. The y housing is the answer, places the starter in a spot where you can hack a lot of block away as its just spare sandwich plate material that can be removed. I stitch drilled and chiselled the alloy out then smoothed it over with a flap on the grinder. It also locates the fork under the drivers/inlet side. A 2az is like a 4ag it has inlet on the right and outlet on the left of the car. The stock 2azfe flywheel is just able to fit in the Y bell housing as well. The Y bell housing locates on 2 studs and centres perfect, and you can redrill a few bolts to make it bolt up no big deal. The bell housing sits a bit rotated on the motor, but this results in no more than an 8 degree lean to the exhaust side which adds inlet room, assists with starter vs steering clearance and lowers the motor in the car as well.

 

The other motor patterns that are close are vz and mz and gr. all v6 patterns.

 

Y, 4Ag rwd, or E starters will work, depending on how you flare the bolt holes in your bellhousing, I'm sure that a 22re one will be very close also. Y requires an adapter plate 12mm thick. E requires only a steel sandwich plate.

 

The ringgear teeth on the 2azfe flywheel need a file taken to them or the gear spun around to take the starter from the front.

 

So with a bit of fiddling I had a starter tested and working.

 

Next was a test fit. The thing fits like a glove, the depressions in the firewall help and its all good, heaps of room for an inlet aswell, and the ports miss the booster and clutch master as they point abov that line, so there is 400mm of runner there if you like.

 

The second from rearmost w box shifter is perfect for it, we made a crossmember to suit it, by just using a stock w box crossmember from an rt142 that came with the box and just moving the mounting plate 30mm. I bolts right into the ae86 chassis with a redrill on one pair of holes, which gives you 4 bolts crossmember to body, and 4 bolts mount to crossmember then 4 bolts mount to box aswell. Should be strong as hell.

 

I have templated the engine mount components aswell, and we will be making them from steel. My friend is arranging the metal at his work, and next weekend we can finish them off and hope fully have a strongly mounted motor ready for manifolds, wiring, a cooling system and sump.

 

Some pictures of it all.

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I have been told that someone gave you a few of stuffed 2az engines :) Good to see your back onto the project!

Maybe ask one of the guys on toymods that put a 2GR in a ke70, might be a better engine? or you want to keep it 4cyl?

Although the 2AZ certainly pulls the camry around alright, not too good on fuel though but ours has about 260000kms on it.

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I have been told that someone gave you a few of stuffed 2az engines :) Good to see your back onto the project!

Maybe ask one of the guys on toymods that put a 2GR in a ke70, might be a better engine? or you want to keep it 4cyl?

Although the 2AZ certainly pulls the camry around alright, not too good on fuel though but ours has about 260000kms on it.

 

Nobody gave me any motors as such, I bought my dummy motor on ebay as well as my new one. I'm merely a chauffer of motors. If I wanted a 2gr Id have one. If you read what I wrote, the whole point is a better performing engine with no weight penalty. At 180kg, the 2grfe is a heavy pig and is a bit more motor than I am looking for, about 65kg more. I like the idea but its not for me. Did I title this the 2gr RWD thread, what did you think you might accomplish suggesting I change? If I was to read between the lines I could be offended. :laff:

 

 

very neat Matt, can you explain what the sotry is with that machined spacer that looks like it's for the intake?

 

 

That's a machined flange from which I will make an ITB inlet. I love the factory O ring seal usage. The raised bits are so you don't have to warp it by putting heat into the flange too much when you weld it up I guess. I did some maths that suggests that if you crimp 50mm OD 45mm ID alloy tube in a vice it should fit neat, and I believe 45mm id is the outlet diameter of BT quads so I will try and make an itb manifold along those lines.

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the 2 azfe is a very neat fit into a *e** chassis and with the amount of aftermarket support available in the usa it is a good choice, 4age stuff is expensive these days and they are late 70s-early 80s technology.

2az is 90s technology ,bigger capacity,readily and cheaply available and as Matt said no weight penalty compared to the old 4a engine.The only real problem is the fwd only configuration ,but being Toyota there are ways to RWD it quite cheaply and easily for those willing to attempt it , also a bonus is the ability to use a w series box which is substanially stronger than a t-50 .

think about it , $500-1200 for a 4age vs $50-400 for a 2azfe . there are literally thousands of these engines in wrecking yards everywhere and they will only become more plentiful as time goes on .

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I'm not so into being the first to do this so I don't mind sharing, Id rather lay the foundation for others if I can, as I feel its a good idea.

 

125KW and 220NM.

 

Roughly the same as a smallport gze but with no boost.

 

That's through the terrible exhaust manifold pictured above with a cat 9 inches from the ports, so with a proper exhaust, ITB inlet and 11:1 pistons, the sky is the limit I think. I've seen someone in the US with 200fwhp with stock cams, just 11:1 pistons were the only internal change. That was through stock a stock inlet aswell, so I guess Id be happy to go close to 200hp and keep over 200nm of torque.

 

It will be run an an adaptronic, probably one of the new select model ecus.

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I've got a '04 Tivo 2az-fe 5 speed, 150,000km. It took me from Brisbane to Melbourne and back for $520 full boot & full car. That's roughly 3650km. Fuel priced varied some what along the way though. It goes like the clappers when you give it stick. 2az :thumbsup:

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