LittleRedSpirit Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Stopped by MACs Mufflers on Pickering street and they spot welded the nut into my sump for me. Sump mod completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Did a bunch more tidying up and finishing off. I have installed the numberplate lights. I just ended up using ke70 ones and changing the plug. I will need to file the plastic around the hole that the wiring passes through in the bumper for the plug to go through but otherwise its a perfect fit. I fitted the front park/indicator light wiring, and its perfect and correct. Cheers Mirko. Just need some led bulbs as I have no bulbs. I felt the stereo was jammed in a little tight against the top edge of its opening so I lowered it 1mm. Fussy boy I can be. Fitted the floor wire, cheers Brett. Ill need Justins' help as the st141 sourced switch is 2 wire on the handbrake and the floor wire to it has a single wire only. I guess the other just goes to ground but I'm sure Justin will know. Also fitted the sender relocation line for the oil pressure sensing gear. Its going to mount off to the left strut tower as I think the space behind the left strut tower is a bit full up with wiring and crud already after moving the heater tap there. I changed out the heater control cable for a mower throttle cable so its more robust and it works a bit more freely. Took a few tie wires to hold it in place in the switch block but it works fine, albeit a bit stiffer than standard but that's to be expected after increasing its length and number of bends threefold. I zip tied up some wires and generally organised a few things. Next thing is to screw in the 6x9 boxes which will be rigidly mounted to the side panels I made. Ill just pack them up a quarter inch off the floor as I will jam some carpet under them some day and maybe some sound deadening too since mine was clearly stolen :bash: . Once the side panels come out to screw in the speaker boxes I can connect the speaker wiring and I will switch over to the better condition seatbelts I bought the other day, which despite my specific requests did not come with the bolts and buckles I was missing. If one more person rips me off and wastes my time I'm buying a plane ticket and paying them a personal visit. I've had a gut full of people either not disclosing useful info, condition, or problems with items and insisting that they have what you need only to find out once it arrives that I was conned. A lie by omission is still a lie, especially if I ask a specific question about the particular thing. I feel its happened at least six times in the last year to me, the next person who does it learns the hardest way possible. Ill have to call Medicine man and get him back once I charge the battery and I can hopefully get him to show me the most elegant way to wire the gauges and senders, and we can test the added electrical pieces. I desperately need an ae86 radio aerial but I just cannot face trying to find one. I might just fit an after market one and see if I can shave the stock antenna hole. I gave my auto falcon aerial to my dad as his broke in his fairlane. I still might use some kind of auto type antenna but it would have to fit where the stock one does no issues. Id also prefer it on a switch so I can have it down if I'm using the ipod or cd player in the car and not the radio. The auto antenna on my ra65 comes up regardless of the source and it annoys me a lot.. I still need to snake and fit the interior light wiring and find a suitable led light I can mount on the cage. I might just use a foot of self adhesive led strip lighting I have in the cupboard. As long as I still can pad the bars somehow that will work. Might just stick it to the roof. Once the speakers and trim are all in I can fit the seats and look at removing gaurds and fitting doors. Then door trims, and I can pull the motor out and do the last couple of mods I need to finish, like fitting a reverse switch, spot welding in a mounting lug for the fuel lines, and tapping a few bits to aide tunnel clearance. I can also fit the modified sump and the modified oil pick-up. Then its motor back in, and off for the tail shaft fabrication and the headers to be corrected, and then Ill buy the ʞ©$ɟing computer and try to run it. :eatlead: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 I screwed in the left side speaker box. I also soldered the left door switch plug in to connect it up. I grabbed a spare ra40 strut I had lying around and I test mounted the gt101dc sensor that I will use for a speed sensor to log in the ecu. I'm happy with where it is. Its designed to pass within 2mm of any ferrous metal object to trigger it being a hall effect sensor, so I've ground out some clearance at the rear of the hub and I'm using the 4 bolts that attach the rotor as the teeth to trigger it. I'm quite happy with where it mounts. I don't think that drilling or die grinding out the material I have will weaken the caliper boss or the brake bracket by an unacceptable margin. Its tucked away behind the hub and strut out of the way, and the tip of the sensor is about .5mm from the bolt heads. What you reckon Justin, should work? I powered the sensor up and spun the hub and could see it jump a few milliamps as it passed the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Doesn't the stock ae86 dash have a speed sensor? Or do you need to run an aftermarket one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowler Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 could you run an inline sensor to the gearbox output, or do you require optical? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Doesn't the stock ae86 dash have a speed sensor? Or do you need to run an aftermarket one? I have heard that but I don't know anything about the quality of the sensor that's inbuilt, I don't expect it to give too accurate a read judging by previous Toyota speed sensors I had, so I've decided to do it this way because I have the sensor already and its known to give a clean read to the adaptronic. I need to know when I'm accelerating to help with tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 could you run an inline sensor to the gearbox output, or do you require optical? Firstly I want the stock speedo to be spinning. Secondly, I've done that before and the sensors that screw in the box are too electrically messy in their signal and inaccurate. They serve as a good measure of whether the car is moving or not, that's about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 http://www.kosmodrom.com.ua/pdf/1GT101DC.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Today I ripped off the gaurds, fitted the radio antenna, hung both doors, tested the stereo, put the battery back on charge, fitted a few bungs in the firewall and mounted the oil pressure senders. I noticed that not only are the door locks missing, the rods that actuate them are too. Anyone have these or some loose doors I can raid the bits out of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD ke70 Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Almost ready to drive, coming along nicely dude. :y: :y: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Yes getting fired up to finish it off now. Today I had some time so I went to the shed and installed the glass in the hatch. It really wasn't easy at first glance so I decided to install a rope in the rubber channel where the hatch fitted and used it to pop the rubber to the inside of the hatch as I worked it around. It worked perfectly. It took longer to clean the glass to get the old tint glue off it. I then adjusted the hatch and clip so it locked in. I still might install some pins to hold the corners down as I feel the gas struts lift em a bit or maybe the glass hatch doesn't weigh the seal down as much. I cleaned and refitted the bonnet and made the cap for it out of corflute so I could finalise my airbox design and check all the clearances. I decided to just simply redo the airbox mock up as I wanted to reangle some things and it was just easier. I got it fitting where I wanted it to. I need to shave a little fibreglass off the inside linign to make it perfect but not much. I used KD bond to stick the top layer to the inner layer at the rear of the cutout in the bonnet. The bottom layer was sagging a bit. Once that dries I can shave the bit that touches the airbox away. I also had to file a bit where the bonnet passed by and lightly touched a wiper arm. All fixed now. I badly need some parts for inside the doors and then I can put the trims on. Once Justin returns to do the last wiring jobs I can fit the seats, console and any extra trim. Then its a brief engine removal and a few odd jobs before that goes back in and the whole car goes to get the tail shaft done and then back to Ricks for the headers to be swapped around and the diff bushes to be sorted. Then its time to buy an ecu and tune her up for rego. Might even try to rego it before its tuned if I can swing it. Make it easier to get around place to place for dyno and road tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Wow. There is nothing about the way this is heading I don't like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 Went and saw my mate at the sheet metal fab shop today. I got quoted sweet f all to make the bonnet cap and the air box so that will be happening sooner than expected. Also have Dave Lawson looking for some door lock parts to help me finish it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Did a few more things to this today. I secure the wiring along the left door scuff and over to the handbrake. I Modified the glove box to take all the relays, fuses and the ecu when i buy it. I routed and secured all the cables. I also made a mount for the ecudatascan and fitted that in front of the ashtray. I was pretty cluey with it, I spun around and trimmed the ashtray runner and put a fold in it, it bolts in like factory in place of the original. I then pained it black and double sided taped it to the ecudatascan bracket. I then routed the cable into the glove box with the ecu. I'm pretty proud of my system I created to hold the extra wiring. I folded up a trick little sheet metal clip from some leftover material and used it to hang the excess on the back face of the box, out of the way but still right where you need it. I was really annoyed at how hard it was to access the ecu, fuses and relays in my old car so I'm stoked with this. Nothing visible but all right there to be accessed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I gave it a wash down and a rub all over with 1000 grit wet and dry to knock back the dull surface, remove a lot of blemishes and cut off the over spray. For the most part the body is good. Its had a closed door respray at some point, I found some bog under the paint where some numpty removed the rubber body strips with extreme duress. I bladed off the remaining decals and actually got it looking ok. I cut back a lot of the primer Id sprayed where I was working on it and a bunch of black and silver overspray. The roof needs all the clear buffed off, its sort of yellowed and flaking away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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