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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.


LittleRedSpirit

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Ha cheers guys. It will get nicer once its all tuned and on the road, as Ill pull the motor and put the pistons in it some day, get a valve job, tidy the ports and just generally improve things, and at that time Ill mirror polish the mag alloy top cover and fit the polished timing housing too. Then it will really blind you when the sun hits it! Might fit the caster arms today, and head off to have the seat rails and lower 4 links modified too.

 

Here's a

for the fans! Edited by LittleRedSpirit
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So with space at a premium right now, there was no better place for my Recaros than installed in the car. I had the exhaust shop weld some plates to expand where the rails meet the floor, then I trimmed em down and re drilled them. Painted them flat black and its all fitted now.

 

Happy with the cockpit, but I could use a slightly longer bosskit.

 

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Need to adapt the diff bushes next. Also fit caster arms, wire up a couple of things and then fill with oil and mark the dipstick.

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Adjusted the hatch and marked how Id like to trim it to even up the gaps.

 

Adjusted the bonnet and scribed in the cap. Made some reinforcements to the bonnet with 1.6 mm thick aluminium strips. One between the layers and one on top to screw the back of the cap to. I'm letting it have a little gap there at the back to vent the thing a bit.

 

Once the sealant sets Ill be screwing down and adhering the cap on. Then Ill most likely glass it on to be sure it wont ever fly off whilst in motion.

 

I can look at painting the glass panels soon I guess.

 

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Bonnet cap is sikaflexed on. It doesnt need any fibreglass, Ill just smooth out the siki with the sander as its sandable and paintable. Word.

 

Marine grade so it sticks well to the fibreglass bonnet.

 

Sits a tiny bit low on the drivers side but I don't mind, its more about the factory seconds d-max bonnet than the scoop.

 

Air gap:

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This bonnet is a bit of a factory seconds mess so it should look in tune with some cracks. I've sanded it right back so the sika just fills under and flush with the metal on the bulge. Its designed to withstand vibration and be painted and sanded so hopefully its ok. Theres only one way to find out.

 

Medicine man made contact, he is busy for a few weeks but he will pop over and connect a few things soon and we will work through the map and make sure all the systems should work so we can turn the key.

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Two steps forwards one step back at the moment. The sealant I used for the sump must have been old as it didn't quite cure so I've had some drips of oil coming out from the seal in one or two spots. Its on car accessible to remove it so its just a slightly fiddly messy job for now, Ill pick up some better sealant today. I've dropped the new oil back out and re bottled it for later.

 

Found a guy selling a better front bar with lip in the next suburb so I'm buying that.

 

The list for completion is as follows:

 

Exhaust fitted.

Connect oil senders, water senders, and bolt the cables back on the starter.

Plug in ecu and check settings.

Tune.

RWC n REGO

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Tell me about it. I was able ti fix it today. It was all possible as I had expected on the car. There was one bolt that I couldn't get a socket on so I just drilled a hole through he cross member sheet metal to access it and when I put it back together I used an Allen head fastener instead so its able to be done up through the hole I made.

 

Maybe one hour to disassemble all up, half an hour of clean up and then 40 minutes to re assemble. Not too bad at all. Took a cool photo that shows the dipstick position in reference with the pick up. Basically if its off the dipstick all together its out of oil completely.

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I also bolted the cables back onto the starer that bring power to the front of the car. I noticed one front wheel had a tiny bit of play in the bearing so I tightened it up slightly.

 

I'm going to go find someone to make my diff bush adapters next. Might just take the diff and a pair of lcas to a metal fab shop and see if they can turn up a couple of stepped washers to adapt it. I was thinking about having a different end welded onto the lower 4 link to adapt it but thats a flawed plan as the ends on the stock mx13 rear 4 links are these massive pressed metal jobbies that seem to not be too suited to chopping up and welding, plus I don't have any. :down:

 

So tomorrow oil goes back in and then hopefully ʞ©$ɟing stays in and I can turn it over again and put some more fresh oil through the motor to lube it up before Justin and I run it. :rocknroll:

 

I have charged the car battery, now I just need to revive my laptop and install WARI 14 and the USB driver for the ecu.

 

Oh and I guess now is the time to install the wideband sensor and its wiring also.

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