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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.


LittleRedSpirit

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Had a fun time at Willowbank.  First run was fastest, at 14.211.  All three runs were faster than the car was before at its best.  I feel like there is more in it, but after I got three quick runs in, there were about 300 people show up to race, and I twisted out the adjustment on the throttles by smashing the throttle stop so hard.  I need to make a physical stop for the pedal so I cannot do this in future.  It just fucks up your idle and you have to adjust in between runs.  Even had to pull up at Yamanto on the way home and adjust it up as it was revving at 4000rpm at the lights.  Got it reasonable and limped home.  I beat one car, a GTS 6.2 litre Holden Commonwhore.  Not too exciting, he was in limp mode, haha.  Air temps were still quite warm, humidity was low, and the breeze was going in the right direction to give some assistance.  Ill be resyncing the itbs today.  I would have liked more runs, but I need a day when almost nobody shows up.  I feel like it could go a tenth or two better.

First run reaction was poor abut left the line ok, but didnt shift as well as I could have mid track.  Second run I bogged slightly at the launch despite a miniscule reaction, so the 60 foot time was too slow and set me up for a loss, but I shifted well down the track and made up some time, third run I thought I nailed it, reacted well, but bounced the limiter in second and didnt get into thrid smoothly enough because of it.  The car now goes into fourth far enough before the line to increase MPH a little at the trap compared to before, where hitting the limiter would get you there in the past.

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Yeah I've been a few times now and I have about 20 runs under my belt in various e chassis.  On the .0 reaction run I launched when the second last white light went out.  I have a staging method that give you margin for error on an early jump.  I think it helped me there.

 

Its always more fun when you have another ae86 to race.  I really want to race a beams powered corolla.

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Yesterday I decided to mount the throttles in the upstream position a further 80mm from the head.  I had to resync and setup the whole thing anyhow after wrenching it out of adjustement at the drags.

I set it up, and painted the cable mount.  Synced it all very methodically.  I'm getting a better sync result as the throttles bed in.

I fitted a pulse dampener in the map sensor line from a 4afe car at the wreckers.  Signal seems to be a bit smoother with some mechanical filtering.

Logged a long drive on the upstream setup and then checked the results.  it seemed a little dead on first touch but built strongly after that and was excellent from about 2500 and up.  I examined the logs and found the afrs went 1.5 points lean on the 6 percent maps.  All the way to mid 15 afrs.  It demanded a lot more fuel up to about 20 percent tps.  I reckon the air is charging in harder and filling the cylinders better.  I might need more transient enrichment also.

Im about to go drive and see how its different now.

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For as long as the car has been running I have been dealing with intermittent freak outs from the idle controller.  Its a ford falcon AU type with a couple half inch nipples tapped into the ports.  I have finally gotten to the bottom of it.  After playing with the electronic side of the system extensively and deciding I could have it perfect one day then it would hunt the next, I was at my wits end.

I decided to pull the controller out and investigate.  Glad I did.  I think one of the nipples I had tapped and screwed in was ever so slightly rubbing the plunger inside the controller, which was making it stick open, or hang in certain positions.  I always noticed it would be perfect on a warm sunny day but be terrible on a wet cold day.  Turns out the temperature must have been enough to adjust the tolerance of the problem, as there was only the slightest mark on the plunger to indicate that there was rubbing once the fittings were unscrewed.  I cleaned inside the controller, it was clean anyhow, but just to be safe, then gave it a small shot of inox to keep it moving smoothly, and then ground 1.5mm of brass off the threads on the nipples and screwed it back together.  Viola!  Perfect, stable, idle with a controller that seems to do its job properly.  Turns out all my setup is great as it works perfect now its not restricted!  It was always worse when cold and once the idle controller itself absorbed some heat it would work ok.

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So of course I celebrated by driving along Clear Mountain road for a test drive, I love that place, close to Brisbane and can see all the way to the glasshouse mountains.  Its my ultimate address.

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11 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

Nice work, that's a pretty subtle problem!

Thanks, now that I think back, I switched to a different Idle controller at some point, just in case the first one had an intermittent fault, and I must have replicated the exact same problem when I screwed the nipples in to the new controller too!  Crazy!  It seemed good for a short while then it freaked out again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I noticed some poor wideband readings on my sensor last time I was at the dyno, and a discrepancy between the dyno afr gauge and mine.  So I put a new sensor on and calibrated it.  I took it out again for a long drive and a road tune, all the way up to mt mee, with the go pro running, and with an accurate wide-band I was able to determine that it needed extra fuel everywhere above 40 percent throttle.  It was a consistent amount lean no matter where I was testing it, so I just fluffed it up 3 percent for all maps above 1500 at 40 percent tps.  I then added a percent to the 33 percent maps to smooth the transition.  Pretty excited to drive it now, lean everywhere means I should be able to discover more horsepower wherever the fuel was demanded, which may go some way to undermining the linear power characteristics.  I definitely feel the top end of the rpm band has improved its delivery compared to before, perhaps a happy medium will be best.  The effect of air filters on or off is diminished with the current setup, there's only a 37mm trumpet on the end of the inlet so most of the airspeed comes from the long passages between head and throttle plate.  Ideally I think a compromise between the previous setup with the throttles 80mm closer to the head and this setup will be best.  I think with a 50mm spacer instead of an 80mm spacer and then with the bigger trumpets on the end I will have a great all round setup with all the bottom end response and top end over rev I need.  Whats really striking me is how flexible the tuning of this engine is, you can change the delivery a real lot without any cams, vvti, or valve train changes.

Its really interesting how the car drives now, its more linear, but when you get to the last 1500rpm before the rev limit, the car just goes fucking mental and screams double time to the limiter.  I'm wondering if its going to make some silly peak number now.  It feels a lot safer to drive hard.  Without the hard rush that follows the slightest of pedal touches like it had before, you can drive it harder with more confidence and it enhances the feeling of control.  It also makes the braking easier to time and late brake.

I did a days Installing work at Moffatt beach Tuesday Morning.  I arrived at sunrise to this glorious scene.

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Took this photo at Dayboro yesterday while out for a data logging drive.  I saw a snake swim across the creek, despite the cold weather.

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I've been road tuning each day for a while, I have found the power that I lost in the mid range and off idle by re-tuning, and the top end is simply spastic now.  I spoke to the tuner but I am unable to dyno this week as winter nationals entrants have him booked out.  I've added a little timing through the mid range, which the car really responded to.

Also saw an ae86 hatch come up on ebay in good shape so I am, now the owner of it.  I will be ditching this fibreglass one asap, its such a piece of shit.

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